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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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THE 



EASIEST WAY 



IN 



HOUSEKEEPING AND COOKING. 

^liapteli to ©0mestic '^m ox Stutig in Classes. 
HELEN CAMPBELL, 

AUTHOR OF "in FOREIGN KITCHENS," " MRS. HERNDON's INCOME," "PRISONERS 
OF POVERTY," " SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA 



If it were done, when 't is done, then 't were well 
It were done quickly." 

^SEP 22 1893 
BOSTON ^^ ^ . I 



ROBERTS BROT 
• 1893. 



rHERS. ^ "^ / y 



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Copyright, 1893, 
By Roberts Brothers. 



John Wilson and Son, Cambridge, U.S.A. 



a Book for agnes 3L. U. OT. 

AND THE SOUTHERN GIRLS WHO STUDIED 
WITH HER. 



PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION. 



THE little book now revised and sent out with some 
slight additions, remains substantially the same as 
when first issued in 1880. In the midst of always increas- 
ing cookery-books, it has had a firm constituency of 
friends, especially in the South, where its necessity was 
first made plain. To enlarge it in any marked degree 
would violate the original plan, for which the critic will 
please read the pages headed '' Introductory," where he 
or she will find full explanation of the growth and 
purpose of the book. Whoever desires more receipts 
and more elaborate forms of preparation must look for 
their sources in the bibliography at the end, since their 
introduction in these pages would practically nullify" the 
title, proved true by years of testing at the hands of 
inexperienced housekeepers, whose warm words have 
long been very pleasant to the author of '^The Easiest 
Way." 

New York, June, 1893. 



COI^TEN^TS. 



PART FIRST. 



Introductory 

Chapter. 

I. The House : Situation and Arrangement 

II. The House : Its Ventilation 

III. Drainage and Water-supply . 

IV. The Day's Work 

V. Fires, Lights, and Things to work with 

VI. Washing-Day and Cleaning in General 
VII. The Body and its Composition 
VIII. Food and its Laws .... 
IX. The Relations of Food to Health 
X. The Chemistry of Animal Food 
XL The Chemistry of Vegetable Food 
XII. Condiments and Beverages 



Page 
5 

11 

19 
27 
35 
45 
64 
63 
73 
80 
90 
100 
110 



PART SECOND. 



Stock and Seasoning 119 

Soups 122 



Fish 



131 



Meats 144 

Poultry 161 



4 CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Sauces and Salads 173 

Eggs and Breakfast Dishes 180 

Tea, Coffee, &c 193 

Vegetables 197 

Bread and Breakfast Cakes 208 

Cake 221 

Pastry and Pies 232 

Puddings, Boiled and Baked 238 

Custards, Creams, Jellies, &c 245 

Canning and Preserving 252 

Pickles and Catchups 257 

Candies 259 

Sick-room Cookery ....*.... 261 

Household Hints 270 

Hints to Teachers . 280 

Lessons for Practice Class 282 

Twenty Topics for Class Use 285 

List of Authorities referred to 286 

Examination Questions 287 

Bibliography 288 

Index 289 



Introductory. 



THAT room or toleration for another " cook-book " can 
exist in the public mind, will be denied at once, with 
all the vigor to be expected from a people overrun with 
cook-books, and only anxious to relegate the majority of 
them to their proper place as trunli-linings and kindling- 
material. The minority, admirable in plan and execution, 
and elaborate enough to serve all republican purposes, are 
surely sufficient for all the needs that have been or may 
be. With Mrs. Cornelius and Miss Parloa, Marion Har- 
land and Mrs. Whitne}^, and innumerable other trust- 
worthy authorities, for all every-day purposes, and Mrs. 
Henderson for such festi\dty as we may at times desire to 
make, another word is not only superfluous but absurd ; in 
fact, an outrage on common sense, not for one instant to 
be justified. 

Such was my own attitude and such my language hardly 
a year ago ; yet that short space of time has shown me, 
that, whether the public admit the claim, or no, one more 
cook-book Must Be. And this is why : — 

A year of somewhat exceptional experience — that in- 
volved in building up several cooking-schools in a new 

5 



6 INTRODUCTORY. 

locality, demanding the most thorough and minute system 
to assure their success and permanence — showed the in- 
adequacies of au}' existing hand-books, and the necessities 
to be met in making a new one. Thus the present book 
has a twofold character, and represents, not only the ordi- 
nar}^ receipt or cook book, usable in any part of the coun- 
try and covering all ordinary household needs, but covers 
the questions naturally arising in every lesson given, and 
ending in statements of the most necessary points in house- 
hold science. There are large books designed to cover 
this ground, and excellent of their kind, but so cumbrous 
in form and execution as to daunt the average reader. 

Miss Corson's " Cooking- School Text-Book" com- 
mended itself for its admirable plainness and fullness of 
detail, but was almost at once found impracticable as a 
S3'stem for my purposes ; her dishes usually requiring the 
choicest that the best city market could afford, and taking 
for granted also a taste for French flavorings not yet com- 
mon outside of our large cities, and to no great extent 
within them. To utilize to the best advantage the food- 
resources of whatever spot one might be in, to give infor- 
mation on a hundred points suggested by each lesson, yet 
having no place in the ordinary cook-book, in short, to teach 
houseJwld science as well as cooking^ became my year's 
work ; and it is that year's work which is incorporated in 
these pages. Beginning with Raleigh, N.C., and lessons 
given in a large school there, it included also a seven- 
months' course at the Deaf and Dumb Institute, and regular 
classes for ladies. Straight through, in those classes, it 
became m^^ business to sa}^, '' This is no infallible system, 
warranted to give the whole art of cooking in twelve lessons. 
All I can do for you is to lay down clearly certain fixed 



INTRODUCTORY. 7 

princi})les ; to show you how to economize thoroughly, yet 
get a better result than by the expenditure of perhaps much 
more material. Before our course ends, 3'ou will have had 
performed before you ever}" essential operation in cook- 
ing, and will know, so far as I can make you know, prices, 
qualities, constituents, and physiological effects of ever}^ 
type of food. Beyond this, the work lies in your own 
hands." 

Armed with manuals, — American, English, French, — 
bent upon S3^stematizing the subject, yet finding none 
entirely adequate, gradually, and in spite of all effort to 
the contrary, I found that my teaching rested more and 
more on my own personal experience as a housekeeper, 
both at the South and at the North. The mass of mate- 
rial in man}^ books was found confusing and paralyzing, 
choice seeming impossible when a dozen methods were 
given. And for the large proportion of receipts, direc- 
tions were so vague that onl}" a trained housekeeper 
could be certain of the order of combination, or results 
when combined. So from the crowd of authorities was 
gradually eliminated a foundation for work ; and on that 
foundation has risen a structure designed to serve two 
ends. 

For the j^oung housekeeper, beginning with little or no 
knowledge, but eager to do and know the right thing, not 
alone for kitchen but for the home as a whole, the list 
of topics touched upon in Part I. became essential. 
That much of the knowledge compressed there should 
have been gained at home, is at once admitted : but, un- 
fortunatel}^ few homes give it ; and the aim has been to 
cover the ground concisel}' yet clearly and attractively. 
As to Pnrt IT., it doo'^ not }!]'ofoss to he the ulioU' 



« INTRODUCTORY. 

art of cooking, but merelj^ the line of receipts most 
needed in the average family, North or South. Each re- 
ceipt has been tested personally b}' the writer, often many 
times ; and each one is given so minutel}' that failure is 
well-nigh impossible, if the directions are intelligentl}' fol- 
lowed. A few distinctivel}' Southern dishes are included, 
but the ground covered has drawn from all sources ; the 
series of excellent and elaborate manuals b}' well-known 
authors having contributed here and there, but the major- 
ity of rules being, as before said, the result of years of 
personal experiment, or drawn from old family receipt- 
books. 

To facilitate the work of the teacher, however, a scheme 
of lessons is given at the end, covering all that can well 
be taught in the ordinary school 3'ear : each lesson is given 
with page references to the receipts emploj^ed, while a 
shorter and more compact course is outlined for the use 
of classes for ladies. A list of topics is also given for 
school use ; it having been found to add greatl}^ to the in- 
terest of the course to write each week the story of some 
ingredient in the lesson for the da}', while a set of ques- 
tions, to be used at periodical intervals, fixes details, and 
insures a certain knowledge of what progress has been 
made. The course covers the chemistry and physiology 
of food, as well as an outline of household science in gen- 
eral, and may serve as a text-book wherever such study 
is introduced. It is hoped that this presentation of the 
subject will lessen the labor necessary in this new field, 
though no text-book can fully take the place of personal 
enthusiastic work. 

That training is imperatively demanded for rich and 
poor alike, is now unquestioned ; but the mere taking a 



INTRODUCTORY, 9 

course of cooking-lessons alone does not meet the need 
in full. The present book aims to fill a place hitherto un- 
occupied ; and precisel}" the line of work indicated there 
has been found the only practical method in a year's 
successful organization of schools at various points. 
Whether used at home with growing girls, in cooking- 
clubs, in schools, or in private classes, it is hoped that 
the system outlined and the authorities referred to will 
stimulate interest, and open up a new field of work to 
many who have doubted if the food question had any in- 
terest be^'ond the day's need, and who have failed to see 
that nothing ministering to the best life and thought of 
this wonderful human bodj^ could ever by any chance be 
rightfully called '' common or unclean." We are but on 
the threshold of the new science. If these pages make 
the w^ay even a little plainer, the author will have accom- 
plished her full purpose, and will know that in spite of 
appearances there is '' room for one more." 

HELEN CAMPBELL. 



The Easiest Way. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT. 

FROM the beginning it must be understood that what is 
written here applies chiefly to countr}- homes. The 
general principles laid down are applicable with equal 
force to town or city life ; but as a people we dwell mostly 
in the country, and, even in villages or small towns, each 
house is likely to have its own portion of land about it, 
and to look toward all points of the compass, instead of 
being limited to two, as in cit}^ blocks. Of the compara- 
tive advantages or disadvantages of city or country life, 
there is no need to speak here. Our business is simply 
to give such details as may apply to both, but chiefl}^ to 
the owners of moderate incomes, or salaried people, whose 
expenditure must always be somewhat limited. With the 
exterior of such homes, women at present have very little 
to do ; and the interior also is thus far much in the hands 
of architects, who decide for general prettiness of effect, 
rather than for the most convenient arrangement of space. 
The young bride, planning a home, is resolved upon a bay- 
window, as large a parlor as possible, and an effective 
spare-room ; but, having in most cases no personal knowl- 

11 



12 THE HOUSE: SITUATION, ETC. 

edge of work, does not consider whether kitchen and din- 
ing-room are convenient!}" planned, or not, and whether 
the arrangement of pantries and closets is such that both 
rooms must be crossed a hundred times a day, when a 
little foresight might have reduced the number certainly 
by one-half, perhaps more. 

Inconvenience can, in most cases, be remedied ; but un- 
healthfulness or unwholesomeness of location, ver}' sel- 
dom : and therefore, in the beginning, I write that ignor- 
ance is small excuse for error, and that every one able to 
read at all, or use common-sense about an}" detail of life, 
is able to form a judgment of what is healthful or un- 
healthful. If no books are at hand, consult the best 
phj^sician near, and have his verdict as to the character of 
the spot in which more or less of 3'our life in this world 
will be spent, and which has the power to affect not only 
your mental and bodil}' health, but that of 3'our children. 
Because your fathers and mothers have been neglectful of 
these considerations, is no reason why you should continue 
in ignorance ; and the first duty in making a home is to 
consider earnestl}' and intelligently certain points. 

Four essentials are to be thought of in the choice of 
an}^ home ; and their neglect, and the ignorance which is 
the foundation of this neglect, are the secret of not only 
the chronic ill-health supposed to be a necessitj" of the 
American organization, but of many of the epidemics and 
m3'sterious diseases classed under the head of ' ' visitations 
of Providence." 

These essentials are : a wholesome situation, good ven- 
tilation, good drainage, and a dry cellar. Rich or poor, 
high or low, if one of these be disregarded, the result will 
tell, either on your own health or on tliat of your fam 



THE HOUSE: SITUATION, ETC. 13 

ily. Whether palace or hut, brown-stone front or simple 
wooden cottage, the law is the same. As a rule, the 
ordinary town or village is built upon low land, because it 
is easier to obtain a water-supply from wells and springs. 
In surh a case, even where the climate itself may be 
tolerably health}^, the drainage from the hills at hand, or 
the nearness of swamps and marshes produced by the 
same cause, makes a dry cellar an impossibility ; and this 
»hut-in and poisonous moisture makes malaria inevitable. 
The dwellers on low lands are the pill and patent-medi- 
cine takers ; and no civilized country swallows the amount 
of tonics and bitters consumed by our own. 

If possible, let the house be on a hill, or at least a rise 
of ground, to secure the thorough draining-away of all 
sewage and waste water. Even in a swampy and mala- 
rious country, such a location will insure all the health 
possible in such a region, if the other conditions men- 
tioned are faithfully attended to. 

Let the living-rooms and bedrooms, as far as may be, 
have full sunshine during a part of each day ; and reserve 
the north side of the house for store-rooms, refrigerator, 
and the rooms seldom occupied. Do not allow trees to 
stand so near as to shut out air or sunlight ; but see that, 
while near enough for beauty and for shade, they do not 
constantly shed moisture, and make twilight in 3'our 
rooms even at mid-day. Sunshine is the enemy of dis- 
ease, which thrives in darkness and shadow. Consump- 
tion or scrofulous disease is almost inevitable in the house 
shut in by trees, whose blinds are tightl}" closed lest some 
ray of sunshine fade the carpets ; and over and over again 
it has been proved that the first conditions of health are, 
abundant supply of pure air, and free admission of sun- 



14 THE HOUSE: SITUATION, ETC. 

light to every nook and cranny. Even with imperfect or 
improper food, these two allies are strong enough to carry 
the day for health ; and, when the three work in harmony, 
the best life is at once assured. 

If the house must be on the lowlands, seek a sandy or 
gravelly soil ; and avoid those built over clay beds, or 
even where clay bottom is found under the sand or loam. 
In the last case, if drainage is understood, pipes maj^ be 
so arranged as to secure against an}^ standing water ; but, 
unless this is done, the clammy moisture on walls, and 
the chill in every closed room, are sufficient indication 
that the conditions for disease are ripe or ripening. The 
only course in such case, after seeking proper drainage, 
is, first, abundant sunlight, and, second, open fires, which 
will act not only as drjing agents, but as ventilators and 
purifiers. Aim to have at least one open fire in the 
house. It is not an extravagance, but an essential, and 
economy may better come in at some other place. 

Having settled these points as far as possible, — the 
question of water-supply and ventilation being left to 
another chapter, — it is to be remembered that the house 
is not merel}^ a place to be made pleasant for one's friends. 
They form only a small portion of the daily life ; and the 
first consideration should be : Is it so planned that the 
necessar}^ and inevitable work of the day can be accom- 
plished with the least expenditure of force? North and 
South, the kitchen is often the least-considered room uT 
the house ; and, so long as the necessary meals are served 
up, the difficulties that may have hedged about such serv- 
ing are never counted. At the South it is doubly so, and 
necessarily ; old conditions having made much considera- 
tion of convenience for servants an unthought-of thing. 



THE HOUSE: SITUATION, ETC. 15 

With a throng of unemplo3^ed women and children, the 
question could only be, how to secure some small portion 
of work for each one ; and in such case, the greater the 
inconveniences, the more chance for such employment. 
Water could well be half a mile distant, when a dozen 
little darkies had nothing to do but form a running line 
between house and spring ; and so with wood and kind- 
ling and all household necessities. 

To-day, with the old service done away with once for 
all, and with a set of new conditions governing every 
form of work, the Southern woman faces diflSculties to 
which her Northern or Western sister is an utter stranger ; 
faces them often with a patience and dignity beyond all 
praise, but still with a hopelessness of better things, the 
necessar}^ fruit of ignorance. Old things are passed 
away, and the new order is 3^et too unfamiliar for rules to 
have formulated and settled in any routine of action. 
While there is, at the North, more intuitive and inherited 
sense of how things should be done, there is on many 
points an almost equal ignorance, more especialty among 
the cultivated classes, who, more than at any period of 
woman's history, are at the mercy of their servants. 
Every science is learned but domestic science. The 
schools ignore it ; and, indeed, in the rush toward an 
early graduation, there is small room for it. 

''She can learn at home," say the mothers. "She 
will take to it when her time comes, just as a duck takes 
to water," add the fathers; and the matter is thus dis- 
missed as settled. 

In the mean time the '' she " referred to — the average 
daughter of average parents in both city and country — 
neither "learns at home," nor "takes to it naturally," 



16 THE HOUSE: SITUATION, ETC. 

save in exceptional eases ; and the reason for this is found 
in the love, which, like much of the love given, is really 
onl}' a higher form of selfishness. The busy mother of a 
famil}', who has fought her own wa^^ to fairly successful 
administration, longs to spare her daughters the petty 
cares, the anxious planning, that have helped to eat out 
her own youth ; and so the 3^oung girl enters married life 
with a vague sense of the dinners that must be, and a 
general belief that somehow or other they come of them- 
selves. And so with all household labor. That to per- 
form it successfully and skillfull}', demands not onl}^ train- 
ing, but the best powers one can bring to bear upon its 
accomplishment, seldom enters the mind ; and the student, 
who has ended her course of chemistry or ph^^siology 
enthusiasticall}', never dreams of applying either to every- 
day life. 

This may seem a digression ; and jet^ in the ver}^ outset, 
it is necessary to place this work upon the right footing, 
and to impress with all possible earnestness the fact, that 
Household Science holds every other science in tribute, 
and that only that home which starts with this admission, 
and builds upon the best foundation the best that thought 
can furnish, has an}^ right to the name of '' home." The 
swarms of drunkards, of idiots, of insane, of deaf and 
dumb, owe their existence to an ignorance of the laws of 
right living, which is simply criminal, and for which we 
must be judged ; and no word can be too earnest, which 
opens the 3'oung girl's eyes to the fact that in her hands 
lie not alone her own or her husband's future, but the 
future of the nation. It is hard to see beyond one's own 
circle ; but if hght is sought for, and there is stead}' 
resolve and patient effort to do the best for one's Individ- 



THE HOUSE: SITUATION. ETC. 17 

ual self, and those nearest one, it will be found that the 
shadow passes, and that progress is an appreciable thing. 

Begin in 3'our own home. Study to make it not only 
beautiful, but perfectl}^ appointed. If your own hands 
must do the work, learn ever}^ method of economizing 
time and strength. If you have servants, whether one or 
more, let the same laws rule. It is not easy, I admit ; 
no good thing is : but there is infinite reward for every 
effort. Let no failure discourage, but let each one be only 
a fresh round in the ladder all must climb who would do 
worthy work ; and be sure that the end will reward all 
pain, all self-sacrifice, and make you truly the mistresses 
of the home for which every woman naturall}^ and right- 
fully hopes, but which is never truly hers till every shade 
of detail in its administration has been mastered. 

The house, then, is the first element of home to be con- 
sidered and studied ; and we have settled certain points 
as to location and arrangement. This is no hand-book 
of plans for houses, that ground being thoroughly cov- 
ered in various books, — the titles of two or three of 
which are given in a list of reference-books at the end. 
But, whether you build or buy, see to it that your kitchens 
and working-rooms are well lighted, w^ell aired, and of 
good size, and that in the arrangement of the kitchen 
especially, the utmost convenience becomes the chief end. 
Let sink, pantries, stove or range, and working-space for 
all operations in cooking, be close at hand. The differ- ^" 
ence between a pantr}^ at the opposite end of the room, 
and one opening close to the sink, for instance, may seem 
a small matter ; but when it comes to walking across the 
room with every dish that is washed, the steps soon count 
up as miles, and in making even a loaf of bread, the time 

2 



18 THE HOUSE: SITUATION, ETC. 

and strength exiDended in gathering materials together 
would go far toward the tliorough kneading, which, when 
added to the previous exertion, makes the whole opera- 
tion, which might have been only a pleasure, a burden 
and an annoj^ance. 

Let, then, stove, fuel, water, work-table, and pantries 
be at the same end of the kitchen, and within a few steps 
of one another, and it will be found that while the general 
labor of each day must alwaj^s be the same, the time re- 
quired for its accomplishment will be far less, under these 
favorable conditions. The successful workman, — the 
type-setter, the cabinet-maker, or carpenter, — whose art 
lies in the rapid combination of materials, arranges his 
materials and tools so as to be used with the fewest possi- 
ble movements ; and the difference between a skilled and 
unskilled workman is not so much the rate of speed in 
movement, as in the abilit}" to make each motion tell. 
The kitchen is the housekeeper's workshop ; and, in the 
chapter on Hoiise-icork^ some fuither details as to methods 
and arrangements will be given. 



THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 19 



CHAPTER II. 
THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 

HAVING settled the four requisites in an}' home, and 
suggested the points to be made in regard to the 
first one, — that of wholesome situation, — Ventilation is 
next in order. Theoreticallj^, each one of us who has 
studied either natural philosophy or ph3'siology will state 
at once, with more or less glibness, the facts as to the 
atmosphere, its qualities, and the amount of air needed 
by each individual ; practically nullifying such statement 
b}' going to bed in a room with closed windows and doors, 
or sitting calml}^ in church or public hall, breathing over 
and over again the air ejected from the lungs all about, — 
a practice as cleanly and wholesome as partaking of food 
chewed over and over by an indiscriminate crowd. 

Now, as to find the Reason Why of all statements and 
operations is our first consideration, the familiar ground 
must be traversed again, and the properties and constitu- 
ents of air find place here. It is an old story, and, like 
other old stories accepted by the multitude, has become 
almost of no efifect ; passive acceptance mentally, absolute 
rejection physically, seeming to be the portion of much of 
the gospel of health. " Cleanliness is next to godliness,*' 
is almost an axiom. I am disposed to amend it, and 
assert that cleanliness is godliness, or a form of godliness. 



20 THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 

At any rate, the man or woman who demands cleanli- 
ness without and within, this cleanliness meaning pure 
air, pure water, pure food, must of necessit}^ have a 
stronger body and therefore a clearer mind (both being 
nearer what God meant for bod}^ and mind) than the one 
who has cared little for law, and so lived oblivious to the 
consequences of breaking it. 

Ventilation, seemingly the simplest and easiest of 
things to be accomplished, has thus far apparently defied 
architects and engineers. Congress has spent a million 
in trying to give fresh air to the Senate and Representa- 
tive Chambers, and will probably spend another before 
that is accomplished. In capitols, churches, and public 
halls of ever}^ sort, the same stor}^ holds. Women faint, 
men in courts of justice fall in apoplectic fits, or become 
victims of new and mysterious diseases, simply from the 
want of pure air. A constant slow murder goes on in 
nurseries and schoolrooms ; and white-faced, nerveless 
children grow into white-faced and nerveless men and 
women, as the price of this violated law. 

What is this air, seemingly so hard to secure, so hard 
to hold as part of our daily life, without which we can not 
live, and which we 3'et contentedly poison nine times out 
often? 

Ox^'gen, nitrogen, carbonic acid, and watery vapor ; tho 
last two being a small portion of the bulk, oxygen and 
nitrogen making up four-fifths. Small as the proportion 
of ox^^gen seems, an increase of but one-fifth more would 
be destruction. It is the life-giver, but undiluted would be 
the life-destroyer ; and the three-fifths of nitrogen act as 
its diluent. No other element possesses the same power. 
Fires and light-giving combustion could not exist an 



THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 21 

instant without oxygen. Its office seems that of universal 
destruction. B3' its action deca^^ begins in meat or vege- 
tables and fruits ; and it is for this reason, that, to preserve 
them, all ox3'gen must be driven out b}' bringing them to 
the boiling point, and sealing them up in jars to which no 
air can find entrance. With only undiluted oxygen to 
breathe, the tissues would dry and shrivel, fuel burn with 
a fury none could withstand, and every operation of nature 
be conducted with such energy as soon to exhaust and 
destro}" all power. But '' a mixture of the fier}' ox3'gen 
and inert nitrogen gives us the golden mean. The 
oxygen now quietly burns the fuel in our stoves, and keeps 
us warm ; combines with the oil in our lamps, and gives us 
light ; corrodes our bodies, and gives us strength ; cleanses 
the air, and keeps it fresh and invigorating ; sweetens foul 
water, and makes it wholesome ; works all around us and 
within us a constant miracle, 3'et with such delicacy and 
quietness, we never percdve or think of it, until we see it 
with the e3^e of science." 

Food and air are the two means by which bodies live. 
In the full-grown man, whose weight will average about 
one hundred and fift^-four pounds, one hundred and eleven 
pounds is ox3'gen drawn from the air we breathe. Only 
when food has been dissolved in the stomach, absorbed 
at last into the blood, and b3^ means of circulation brought 
into contact with the ox3'gen of the air taken into 
our lungs, can it begin to realh' feed and nourish the 
bod3^ ; so that the lungs ma3% after all, be regarded as 
the true stomach, the other being not much more than the 
food-receptacle. 

Take these lungs, made up within of branching tubes, 
these in turn formed b3^ m3'riads of air-cells, and each air- 



X 



22 THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 

cell owning its network of minute cells called capillaries. 
To ever}^ air-cell is given a blood-vessel bringing blood 
from the heart, which finds its way through ever}' capillary 
till it reaches another blood-vessel that carries it back to 
tlje heart. It leaves the heart charged with carbonic acid 
and watery vapor. It returns, if pure air has met it in 
the lung, with all corruption destroyed, a dancing parti- 
cle of life. But to be life, and not slow death, thirtj'-three 
hogsheads of air must pass daily into the lungs, and 
twenty-eight pounds of blood journey from heart to lungs 
and back again three times in each hour. It rests wholly 
with ourselves, whether this wonderful tide, ebbing and 
flowing with every breath, shall exchange its poisonous 
and clogging carbonic acid and water}' vapor for life-giving 
ox3'gen, or retain it to weigh down and debilitate every 
nerve in the bod}^ 

With ever}^ thought and feeling some actual particles 
of brain and nerve are dissolved, and sent floating on 
this crimson current. With every motion of a muscle, 
whether great or small, with everj^ process that can take 
place in the body, this ceaseless change of particles is 
going on. Wherever oxygen finds admission, its union 
with carbon to form carbonic acid, or with hydrogen to 
form water, produces heat. The waste of the body is 
literally burned up by the oxygen ; and it is this burning 
which means the warmth of a living body, its absence 
giving the stony cold of the dead. " Who shall deliver me 
from the body of this death? " may well be the literal ques- 
tion for each day of our lives ; and "• pure air " alone can 
secure genuine life. Breathing bad air reduces all the pro- 
cesses of the body, lessens vitalit}" ; and thus, one in poor 
health will sufiTer more from bad air than those who have 



THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 23 

become thoroughly accustomed to it. If weakened vitality 
were the only result, it would not be so serious a matter ; 
but scrofula is soon fixed upon such constitutions, begin- 
ning with its milder form as in consumption, but ending in 
the absolute rottenness of bone and tissue. The invc^'id 
may live in the healthiest climate, pass hours each day in 
the open air, and yet undo or neutralize much of the good 
of this b}^ sleeping in an unventilated room at night. Dis- 
eased joints, horrible affections of the eye or ear or skin, 
are inevitable. The greatest li\ing authorities on lung- 
diseases pronounce deficient ventilation the chief cause 
of consumption, and more fatal tJiaii all other causes put 
together; and, even where food and clothing are both un- 
wholesome, free air has been found able to counteract 
their effect. 

In the country the balance ordained in nature has its 
compensating power. The poisonous carbonic acid thrown 
off by lungs and body is absorbed by vegetation whose 
food it is, and which in every waving leaf or blade of 
grass returns to us the ox^'gen we demand. Shut in a 
close room all day, or even in a tol^rably ventilated one, 
there may be no sense of closeness ; but go to the open 
air for a moment, and,af the nose has not been hopelessly 
ruined by want of education, it will tell unerringly' the 
degree of ox^^gen wanting and required. 

It is ordinarily supposed that carbonic-acid gas, being 
heavier, sinks to the bottom of the room, and that thus 
trundle-beds, for instance, are especially unwholesome. 
This would be so, were the gas pure. As a matter of 
fact, however, being warmed in the bod}', and thus made 
lighter, it rises into the common air, so that usually more 
will be found at the top than at the bottom of a room. 



24 THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 

This gas is, however, not the sole cause of disease. From 
both lungs and skin, matter is constantly thrown off, and 
floats in the form of germs in all impure air. To a per- 
son who by long confinement to close rooms has become 
so sensitive that am' sudden current of air gives a cold, 
ventilation seems an impossibility and a cruelty ; and the 
problem becomes : How to admit pure air throughout the 
house, and joi avoid currents and draughts. " Night-air " 
is even more dreaded than the confined air of rooms ; yet, 
as the onl}^ air to be had at night must come under this 
head, it is safer to breathe that than to settle upon car- 
bonic acid as lung-food for a third, at least, of the twenty- 
four hours. As fires feed on ox3'gen, it follows that everj^ 
lamp, every gas-jet, ever}' furnace, are so manj' appetites 
satisfjing themselves upon our store of food, and that, if 
they are burning about us, a double amount of oxygen 
must be furnished. 

The onl}^ mode of ventilation that will work alwa3's and 
without fail is that of a warm-air flue, the upward heated 
air-current of which draws off the foul gases from the 
room : this, supplemented b}' an opening on the opposite 
side of the room for the admission of pure air, will ac- 
complish the desired end. An open fire-place will secure 
this, provided the flue is kept warm by heat from the 
kitchen flre, or some other during seasons when the fire- 
place is not used. But perhaps the simplest wa}' is to 
haA'e ample openings (from eight to twelve inches square) 
lit the top and bottom of each room, opening into the 
chimne^'-flue : then, even if a stove is used, the flue can 
be kept heated by the extension of the stove-pipe some 
distance up within the chimney, and the ascending car- 
rent of hot air will draw the foul air from the room into 



THE HOUSE: VENTILATION, 25 

the flue. This, as before stated, must be completed by a 
fresh-air opening into the room on another side : if no 
other can be had, the top of the window may be lowered 
a little. The stove-pipe extension within the chimney 
would better be of cast-iron, as more durable than the 
sheet-iron. When no fire is used in the sleei^ing-rooms, 
the chimney-flue must be heated by pipes from the kitchen 
or other fires ; and, with the provision for fresh air never 
forgotten, this simple device will invariably secure pure 
and well-oxygenated air for breathing. '' Fussy and ex- 
pensive," may be the comment; but the expense is less 
than the average yearly doctor's bill, and the fussiness 
nothing that your own hands must engage in. Only 
let heads take it in, and see to it that no neglect is 
allowed. In a southern climate doors and windows are 
of necessity open more constantl}^ ; but at night they are 
closed from the fear referred to, that night- air holds some 
subtle poison. It is merely colder, and perhaps moister, 
than day-air ; and an extra bed-covering neutralizes this 
danger. Once accustomed to sleeping with open win- 
dows, you will find that taking cold is impossible. 

If custom, or great delicacy of organization, makes un- 
usual sensitiveness to cold, have a board the precise width 
of the window, and five or six inches high. Then raise 
the lower sash, putting this under it ; and an upward cur- 
rent of air will be created, which will in great part purify 
the room. 

Beyond every thing, watch that no causes producing 
foul air are allowed to exist for a moment. A vase of 
neglected flowers will poison the air of a whole room. 
In the area or cellar, a decaying head of cabbage, a basket 
Df refuse vegetables, a forgotten barrel of pork or beef 



26 THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. 

brine, a neglected garbage pail or box, are all premiums 
upon disease. Let air and sunlight search every corner 
of the house. Insist upon as nearly spotless cleanliness 
as ma}^ be, and the second prime necessity of the home 
is secure. 

When, as it is written, man was formed from the dust 
of the earth, the Lord God "breathed into his nostrils 
the breath of life ; and man became a living soul.^' 

Shut off that breath of life, or poison it as it is daily 
poisoned, and not only bod}', but soul, dies. The child, 
fresh from its long day out of doors, goes to bed quiet, 
content, and happy. It wakes up a little demon, bristling 
with crossness, and determined not to " be good."- The 
breath of life carefully shut out, death has begun its work, 
and you are responsible. And the same criminal blunder 
causes not only the child's suffering, but also the weak- 
ness which makes many a delicate woman complain that 
it " takes till noon to get her strength up." 

Open the windows. Take the portion to which j^ou 
were born, and life will grow easier. 



DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. 27 



CHAPTER III. 

DRAINAGE AND ^VATER-SUPPLY. 

AIR and sunshine having been assured for all parts of 
the house in dail}^ use, the next question must be an 
unfailing and full supply of pure water. "• Dig a well, or 
build near a spring," sa}^ the builders; and the well is 
dug, or the spring tapped, under the general supposition 
that water is clean and pure, simply because it is water, 
while the surroundings of either spring or well are unno- 
ticed. Drainage is so comparatively new a question, that 
only the most enlightened portions of the country con- 
sider its bearings ; and the large majority of people all 
over the land not only do not know the interests involved 
in it, but would resent as a personal slight any hint that 
their own water-supply might be affected by deficient 
drainage. 

Pure water is simply ox3^gen and hydrogen, eight-ninths 
being ox^^gen and but one-ninth hydrogen ; the latter gas, 
if pure, having, like oxygen, neither taste nor smell. 
Rain-water is the purest type ; and, if collected in open 
vessels as it falls, is necessarily free from any possible 
taint (except at the very first of a rain, when it washes 
down considerable floating impurity from the atmosphere, 
especially in cities) . This mode being for obvious reasons 
impracticable, cisterns are made, and rain conducted to 



2S DBAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. 

them through pipes leading from the roof. The w^i^^ 
has thus taken up all the dust, soot, and other impuri^ie^ 
found upon the roof, and, unless filtered, can not be consid- 
ered desirable drink. The best cistern will include a filter 
of vsome sort, and this is accomplished in two , wa^'s. 
J^ither the cistern is divided into two parts, the water 
being received on one side, and allowed to slowly filter 
through a wall of porous brick, regarded b}^ man}' as an 
ampl}' sufficient means of purification ; or a more elabo- 
rate form is used, the division in such case being into 
upper and under compartments, the upper one containing 
the usual filter of iron, charcoal, sponge, and gravel or 
sand. If this water has a free current of air passing 
over it, it will acquire more sparkle and character ; but as 
a rule it is flat and unpleasant in flavor, being entirely 
destitute of the earthy salts and the carbonic-acid gas to 
be found in the best river or spring water. 

Distilled w^ater comes next in purity, and is, in fact, 
identical in character with rain-water ; the latter being 
merely steam, condensed into rain in the great alembic of 
the sk}'. But both have the curious property- of taking up 
and dissolving lead wherever they find it ; and it is for this 
reason that lead pipes as leaders from or to cisterns should 
never be allowed, unless lined w^ith some other metal. 

The most refreshing as well as most wholesome water 
is river or s^Dring water, perfectl}' filtered so that no pos- 
sible impurity can remain. It is then soft and clear ; 
has sufficient air and carbonic acid to make it refreshing, 
and enough earthy salts to prevent its taking up lead, and 
so becoming poisonous. River-water for dail}' use of 
course requires a S3'stem of pipes, and in small places is 
practically unavailable; so that wells are likely, in such 



BBAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. 29 

case, to be the chief source of supply. Such water will 
of course be spring-water, with the characteristics of the 
soil through which it rises. If the well be shallow, and 
fed by surface springs, all impurities of the soil will be 
found in it ; and thus to dig deep becomes essential, for 
mau}^ reasons. Dr. Parker of England, in some papers 
on practical hj'giene, gives a clear and easily understood 
statement of some causes affecting the purity of well- 
water. 

*' A well drains an extent of ground around it, in the 
shape of an inverted cone, which is in proportion to its 
own depth and the looseness of the soil. In very loose 
soils a well of sixty or eight}^ feet will drain a large area, 
perhaps as much as two hundred feet in diameter, or even 
more ; but the exact amount is not, as far as I know, pre- 
cisely determined. 

"Certain trades pour their refuse water into rivers, 
gas-works ; slaughter-houses ; tripe-houses ; size, horn, 
and isinglass manufactories ; wash-houses, starch- works, 
and calico-printers, and many others. In houses it is 
astonishing how man}^ instances occur of the water of 
butts, cisterns, and tanks, getting contaminated by leak- 
ing of pipes and other causes, such as the passage of sewer- 
gas through overflow-pipes, &c. 

" As there is now no doubt that typhoid-fever, cholera, 
and dysentery may be caused by water rendered impure 
by the evacuations passed in those diseases, and as simple 
diarrhoea seems also to be largely caused by animal or- 
ganic [matter in] suspension or solution, it is evident how 
necessary it is to be quick-sighted in regard to the possible 
impurity of water from incidental causes of this kind. 
Therefore all tanks and cisterns should be inspected legu- 



30 DRAINAGE AND WATEE-SUPPLY. 

larly , and any accidental source of impurit}' must be looked 
out for. Wells should be covered ; a good coping put 
round to prevent substances being washed down ; the dis- 
tances from cess-pools and dung-heaps should be carefully 
noted ; no sewer should be allowed to pass near a well. 
The same precautions should be taken with springs. In 
the case of rivers, we must consider if contamination can 
result fi'om the discharge of fecal matters, trade refuse, 
&c." 

Now, suppose all such precautions have been disre- 
garded. Suppose, as is most usual, that the well is dug 
near the kitchen-door, — probabl}' betw^een kitchen and 
barn ; the drain, if there is a drain from the kitchen, 
pouring out the dirty water of w^ash-day and all other 
daj's, which sinks through the ground, and acts as feeder 
to the waiting well. Suppose the manure-pile in the barn- 
yard also sends down its suppl}', and the privies contrib- 
ute theirs. The water may be unchanged in color or 
odor : yet none the less 3^ou are drinking a foul and horri- 
ble poison ; slow in action, it is true, but making you 
read}^ for diphtheria and typhoid-fever, and consumption, 
and other nameless ills. It is so easy to doubt or set 
aside all this, that I give one case as illustration and 
warning of all the evils enumerated above. 

The State Board of Health for Massachusetts has long 
busied itself with researches on all these points, and the 
case mentioned is in one of their reports. The house de- 
scribed is one in Hadle}^, built by a clergyman. " It was 
pro\ided with an open well and sink-drain, with its de- 
posit-box in close proximity thereto, affording facility to 
discharge its gases in the well as the most convenient 
place. The cellar was used, as country cellars commonly 



DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. 31 

are, for the storage of provisions of every kind, and the 
windows were never opened. The only escape for the 
soil-moisture and ground-air, except that which was ab- 
sorbed by the drinking-water, was through the crevices of 
the floors into the rooms above. After a few months' resi- 
dence in the house, the clerg^Tnan's wife died of fever. 
He soon married again ; and the second wife also died of 
fever, within a year from the time of marriage. His chil- 
dren were sick. He occupied the house about two years. 
The wife of his successor was soon taken ill, and barely 
escaped with her life. A physician then took the house. 
He married, and his wife soon after died of fever. 
Another ph3'sician took the house, and within a few 
months came near djing of erysipelas. He deserved it. 
The house, meanwhile, received no treatment ; the doc- 
tors, according to their usual wont, even in their own 
families, were satisfied to deal with the consequences, and 
leave the causes to do their worst. 

"Next after the doctors, a school-teacher took the 
house, and made a few changes, for convenience appar- 
ently, for substantially it remained the same ; for he, 
too, escaped as by the skin of his teeth. Finally, after 
the foreclosure of many lives, the sickness and fatality of 
the property became so marked, that it became unsalable. 
When at last sold, every sort of prediction was made as 
to the risk of occupancy ; but, by a thorough attention to 
sanitary conditions, no such risks have been encoun- 
tered." 

These deaths were suicides, — ignorant ones, it is true, 
not one stopping to think what causes lay at the bottom 
of such " mysterious dispensations." But, just as surely 
as corn gives a crop from the seed sown, so surely typhoid 



32 DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. 

fever and diphtheria follow bad drainage or the drinking 
of impure water. 

Boiling such water destro^'s the germs of disease ; but 
neither boiled water nor boiled germs are pleasant 
drinking. 

If means are too narrow to admit of the expense attend- 
ant upon making a drain long enough and tight enough to 
QSLVvy off all refuse water to a safe distance from the house, 
then adopt another plan. Remember that to throw dirty- 
water on the ground near a well, is as deliberate poison- 
ing as if you threw arsenic in the well itself. Have a 
large tub or barrel standing on a wheelbarrow or small 
hand-cart ; and into this pour everj^ drop of dirty water, 
wheeling it away to orchard or garden, where it will enrich 
the soil, which will transform it, and return it to 3^ou, not 
in disease, but in fruit and vegetables. Also see that the 
well has a roof, and, if possible, a lattice-work about it, 
that all leaves and flying dirt may be prevented from fall- 
ing into it. You do not want your water to be a solution 
or tincture of dead leaves, dead frogs and insects, or stray 
mice or kittens ; and this it must be, now and again, if not 
covered sufficiently to exclude such chances, tJiough not 
the ail', which must be given free access to it. 

As to hard and soft water, the latter is always most 
desirable, as soft water extracts the flavor of tea ii,nd 
cofl*ee far better than hard, and is also better for all cook- 
ing and washing purposes. Hard water results from a 
superabundance of lime ; and this lime "cakes" on the 
bottom of tea-kettles, curdles soap, and clings to every 
thing boiled in it, from clothes to meat and vegetables 
(which last are always more tender if cooked in soft water ; 
though, if it be too soft, they are apt to boil to a porridge). 



DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. 33 

Washing'Soda or borax will soften hard water, and 
make it better for all household purposes ; but rain-water, 
even if not desired for drinking, will be found better than 
any softened by artificial means. 

If, as in many towns, the supply of drinking-water for 
many families comes from the town pump or pumps, the 
same principles must be attended to. A well in Golden 
Square, London, was noted for its especially bright and 
sparkling water, so much so that people sent from long 
distances to secure it. The cholera broke out ; and all 
who drank from the well became its victims, though the 
square seemed a healthy location. Analysis showed it to 
be not only alive with a species of fungus growing in it, 
but also weighted with dead organic matter from a neigh- 
boring churchyard. Every tissue in the living bodies 
which had absorbed this water was inflamed, and ready to 
yield to the first epidemic ; and cholera was the natural 
outcome of such conditions. Knowledge should guard 
against any such chances. See to it that no open cess- 
pool poisons either air or water about your home. Sunk 
at a proper distance from the house, and connected with 
it by a drain so tightly put together that none of the con- 
tents can escape, the cesspool, which may be an elaborate, 
brick-lined cistern, or merely an old hogshead thoroughly 
tarred within and without, and sunk in the ground, 
becomes one of the most important adjuncts of a good 
garden. If, in addition to this, a pile of all the decajdng 
vegetable matter — leaves, weeds, &c. — is made, all 
dead cats, hens, or puppies finding burial there ; and the 
whole closely covered with earth to absorb, as fresh earth 
has the power to do, all foul gases and vapors ; and if 
at intervals the pile is wet through with liquid from the 

8 



34 DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. 

cesspool, the richest form of fertilizer is secured, and one 
of the great agricultural duties of man fulfilled, — that of 
" returning to the soil, as fertilizers, all the salts produced 
by the combustion of food in the human body." 

Where the water-supply^ is brought into the house from 
a common reservoir, much the same rules hold good. 
We can not of course control the character of the general 
supply, but we can see to it that our own water and waste 
pipes are in the most perfect condition ; that traps and all 
the best methods of preventing the escape of sewer-gas 
into our houses are provided; that stationary or " set" 
basins have the plug always in them ; and that every 
water-closet is provided with a ventilating pipe suflSciently 
high and long to insure the full escape of all gases from the 
house. Simple disinfectants used from time to time — 
chloride of Ume and carboUc acid — will be found useful, 
and the most absolute cleanliness is at all times the first 
essential. 

With air and water at their best, the home has a reason- 
able chance of escaping many of the sorrows brought by 
disease or uncertain health ; and, the power to work to the 
best advantage being secured, we msiy now pass to the 
forms that work must take. 



TRE BAY'S WORK, 35 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE DAY'S AATORK. 

IT is safe to say that no class of women in the civihzed 
world is subjected to such incessant trials of temper, 
and such temptation to be fretful, as the American house- 
keeper. The reasons for this state of things are legion ; 
and, if in the beginning we take ground from which the 
whole field may be clearly surveyed, we may be able to 
secure a better understanding of what housekeeping 
means, and to guard against some of the dangers accom- 
panying it. 

The first difficulty lies in taking for granted that suc- 
cessful housekeeping is as much an instinct as that which 
leads the young bird to nest-building, and that no specific 
training is required. The man who undertakes a business, 
passes always through some form of apprenticeship, and 
must know ever}' detail involved in the management ; but 
to the large proportion of women, housekeeping is a com- 
bination of accidental forces from whose working it is 
hoped breakfasts and dinners and suppers will be evolved 
at regular periods, other necessities finding place where 
they can. The new home, prettily furnished, seems a 
lovely toy, and is surrounded b}' a halo, which, as facts 
assert themselves, quickly fades away. Moth and rust 
and dust invade the most secret recesses. Breakas-e and 



36 THE DAY'S WOBK. 

general disaster attend the progress of Bridget or Chloe. 
The kitchen seems the headquarters of extraordinary 
smells, and the stove an ab^^ss in its consumption of coal 
or wood. Food is wasted b}^ bad cooking, or ignorance 
as to needed amounts, or methods of using left-over por- 
tions ; and, as bills pile up, a hopeless discouragement 
often settles upon both wife and husband, and reproaches 
and bitterness and ahenation are guests in the home, to 
which they need never have come had a little knowledge 
barred them out. 

In the beginning, then, be sure of one thing, — that all 
the wisdom you have or can acquire, all the patience 
and tact and self-denial you can make yours by the most 
diligent effort, will be needed every day and ever}^ hour of 
the day. Details are in themselves wearying, and to 
most men their relation to housekeeping is unaccountable. 
The day's w^ork of a s^^stematic housekeeper would con- 
found the best-trained man of business. In the woman's 
hand is the ke}' to home-happiness, but it is foll}^ to assert 
that all lies with her. Let it be felt from the beginning 
that her station is a difficult one, that her duties are im- 
portant, and that judgment and skill must guide their per- 
formance ; let boys be taught the honor that lies in such 
duties, — and there will be fewer heedless and unappre- 
ciative husbands. On the other hand, let the woman re- 
member that the good general does not waste words on 
hindrances, or leave his weak spots open to observation, 
but, learning from every failure or defeat, goes on stead- 
ily to victory. To fret will never mend a matter ; and 
" Study to be quiet" in thought, word, and action, is the 
first law of successful housekeeping. Never under-esti- 
mate the difficulties to be met, for this is as much an evil 



TUE DAY'S WOUK. 37 

as over-apprehension. The best-arranged plans ma}' be 
overturned at a moment's notice. In a mixed family, 
habits and pursuits differ so widely that the housekeeper 
must hold herself in readiness to find her most cherished 
schemes set aside. Absolute adherence to a system is 
only profitable so far as the greatest comfort and well- 
being of the famil}' are affected ; and, dear as a fixed 
routine may be to the housekeeper's mind, it may often 
well be sacrificed to the general pleasure or comfort. A 
quiet, controlled mind, a soft voice, no matter what the 
provocation to raise it may be, is " an excellent thing in 
woman." And the certainty that, hard as such control 
may be, it holds the promise of the best and fullest life 
here and hereafter, is a motive strong enough, one w^ould 
think, to insure its adoption. Progress may be slow, but 
the reward for every step forward is certain. 

We have already found that each day has its fixed rou- 
tine, and are ready now to take up the order of work, 
which will be the same in degree whether one servant is 
kept, or man}^, or none. The latter state of things will 
often happen in the present uncertain character of house- 
hold service. Old family servants are becoming more and 
more rare ; and, unless the new generation is wisel}' 
trained, w^e run the risk of being even more at their mercy, 
in the future than in the past. 

First, then, on rising in the morning, see that a full 
current of air can pass through every sleeping-room ; re- 
move all clothes from the beds, and allow them to air at 
least an hour. Only in this way can we be sure that the 
impurities, thrown off from even the cleanest body by the 
pores during the night, are carried off. A neat house- 
keeper is often tempted to make beds, or have them 



38 THE DAY'S WORK. 

made, almost at once ; but no practice can be more un- 
wholesome. 

While beds and bedrooms are airing, breakfast is to be 
made read}', the table set, and kitchen and dining-room 
put in order. The kitchen-fire must first be built. If a 
gas or oil stove can be used, the operations are all sim- 
pler. If not, it is always best to have dumped the grate 
the night before if coal is used, and to have laid the fire 
ready for lighting. In the morning brush ofl* all ashes, 
and wipe or blacken the stove. Strong, thick gloves, and 
a neat box for brushes, blacking, &c., will make this a 
much less disagreeable operation than it sounds. Rinse 
out the tea-kettle, fill it with fresh water, and put over to 
boil. Then remove the ashes, and, if coal is used, sift 
them, as cinders can be burned a large part of the time 
where onl}' a moderate fire is desired. 

The table can be set, and the dining or sitting room 
swept, or merel}^ brushed up and dusted, in the intervals 
of getting breakfast. To have everj' thing clean, hot, 
and not onlj^ well prepared but ready on time, is the first 
law, not only for breakfast, but for every other meal. 

After breakfast comes the dish-washing, dreaded by all 
beginners, but needlessly so. With a full suppl}^ of all 
conveniences, — plenty of soap and sapolio, which is far 
better and cleaner to use than either sand or ashes ; 
with clean, soft towels for glass and silver ; a mop, the 
use of which not only saves the hands but enables 3^ou to 
have hotter water ; and a full suppl}' of coarser towels for 
the heavier dishes, — the work can go on swiftl3\ Let the 
dish-pan be half full of hot soap and water. Wash glass 
firsts pa3ing no attention to the old sa3ing that " hot 
water rots glass." Be careful never to put glass into 



THE BAY'S WORK. 39 

hot water, oottom first, as the sudden expansion may 
crack it. Slip it in edgeways, and the finest and most 
delicate cut-glass will be safe. WasJi silver- next. Hot 
suds, and instant wiping on dry soft cloths, will retain the 
brightness of silver, which treated in this way requires 
much less polishing, and therefore lasts longer. If any 
pieces require rubbing, use a little whiting made into a 
paste, and put on wet. Let it dr}', and then polish with a 
chamois-skin. Once a month will be sufficient for rub- 
bing silver, if it is properly washed. China comes next 
— all plates having been carefully scraped, and all cups 
rinsed out. To fill the pan with unscraped and unrinsed 
dishes, and pour half- warm water over the whole, is a 
method too often adopted ; and the results are found in 
sticky dishes and lustreless silver. Put all china, silver, 
and glass in their places as soon as washed. Then take 
any tin or iron pans, wash, wipe with a dry towel, and put 
near the fire to dry thoroughly. A knitting-needle or 
skewer may be kept to dig out corners unreachable by 
dishcloth or towel, and if perfectly dried the}' will remain 
free from rust. 

The cooking-dishes, saucepans, &c., come next in order ; 
and here the wire dish-cloth will be found useful, as it 
does not scratch, yet answers every purpose of a knife. 
Ever}" pot, kettle, and saucepan must be put into the pan 
of hot water. If very greasy, it is well to allow them to 
stand partly full of water in which a few drops of ammo- 
nia have been put. The outside must be washed as care- 
fully as the inside. Till this is done, there will always be 
complaint of the unpleasantness of handling cooking- 
utensils. Properly done, they are as clean as the china 
or glass. 



40 THE BAY'S WOBK. 

Plated knives save much work. If steel ones are used, 
the}' must be polished after ever}' meal. In washing them, 
see that the handles are never allowed to touch the water. 
Ivor}^ discolors and cracks if wet. Bristol-brick finely 
powdered is the best polisher, and, mixed with a little 
water, can be applied with a large cork. A regular knife- 
board, or a small board on which 3'ou can nail three strips 
of wood in box form, will give 3'ou the best mode of keep- 
ing brick and cork in place. After rubbing, wash clean, 
and wipe dr}'. 

The dish-towels are the next consideration. A set 
should be used but a week, and must be washed and 
rinsed each day if 3'ou would not have the flavor of dried- 
in dish-water left on your dishes. Dry them, if possible, 
in the open air : if not, have a rack, and stand them near 
the fire. On washing-da3's, let those that have been used 
a week have a thorough boiling. The close, sour smell 
that all housekeepers have noticed about dish-towels comes 
from want of boiling and drying in fresh air, and is unpar- 
donable and unnecessary. 

Keep hot water constantly in your kettles or water-pots, 
by alwa^'s remembering to fill with cold when you take 
out hot. Put awa}" every article carefully in its place. 

If tables are stained, and require an}' scrubbing, remem- 
ber that to wash or scrub wood you must follow the grain, 
as rubbing across it rubs the dirt in instead of taking it 
off. 

The same rule applies to floors. A clean, coarse cloth, 
hot suds, and a good scrubbing-brush, will simplify the 
operation. Wash off the table ; then dip the brush in the 
suds, and scour with the grain of the wood. Finally wash 
oflT all soapy water, and wipe dry. To save strength, the 



^ THE BAY'S WORK. 41 

table on which dishes are washed may be covered with 
kitchen oilcloth, which will merely require washing and 
wiping ; with an occasional scrubbing for the table below. 

The table must be cleaned as soon as the dishes are 
washed, because if dishes stand upon tables the fragments 
of food have time to harden, and the washing is made 
doubly hard. 

Leaving the kitchen in order, the bedrooms will come 
next. Turn the mattresses daily, and make the bed 
smoothly and carefully. Put the under sheet with the 
wrong side next the bed, and the upper one with the 
marked end always at the top, to avoid the part where 
the feet lie, from being reversed and so reaching the face. 
The sheets should be large enough to tuck in thoroughly, 
three j'ards long by two and a half wide being none too 
large for a double bed. Pillows should be beaten and 
then smoothed with the hand, and the aim he to have 
an even, unwrinkled surface. As to the use of shams, 
whether sheet or pillow, it is a matter of taste ; but in all 
cases-, covered or uncovered, let the bed-linen be daintily 
clean. 

Empty all slops, and with hot water wash out all the 
bowls, pitchers, &c., using separate cloths for these pur- 
poses, and never toilet towels. Dust the room, arrange 
every thing in place, and, if in summer, close the blinds, 
and darken till evening, that it may be as cool as possible. 

Sweeping days for bedrooms need come but once a 
week, but all rooms used bj^ many people require daily 
sweeping ; halls, passages, and dining and sitting rooms 
coming under this head. Careful dusting daily will often 
do away with the need of frequent sweeping, which wears 
out carpets unnecessarily. A carpet-sweeper is a real 



42 THE BAY'S WORK. 

econom}', both in time and strength ; but, if not obtaina- 
ble, a light broom carefully handled, not with a long stroke 
which sends clouds of dust over every thing, but with a 
short quick one, which only experience can give, is next 
best. For a thorough sweeping, remove as many articles 
from the room as possible, dusting each one thoroughly, 
and cover the larger ones which must remain with old 
sheets or large squares of common unbleached cotton 
cloth, kept for this purpose. If the furniture is rep or 
woolen of any description, dust about each button, that 
no moth may find lodgment, and then cover closely. A 
feather duster, long or short, as usually applied, is the 
enemy of cleanliness. Its onh' legitimate use is for 
the tops of pictures or books and ornaments ; and such 
dusting should be done before the room is swept, as well 
as afterward, the first one removing the heaviest coat- 
ing, which would otherwise be distributed over the room. 
For piano, and furniture of delicate woods generall}', 
old silk handkerchiefs make the best dusters. For all 
ordinary- purposes, squares of old cambric, hemmed, and 
washed when necessar}', will be found best. Insist upon 
their being kept for this purpose, and forbid the use of 
toilet towels, always a temptation to the average servant. 
Kemember that in dusting, the process should be a wiping ; 
not a flirting of the cloth, which simply sends the dust up 
into the air to settle down again about where it was 
before. 

If moldings and wash-boards or wainscotings are 
wiped off with a damp cloth, one fruitful source of dust 
will be avoided. For all intricate work like the legs of 
pianos, carved backs of furniture, &c., a pair of small 
bellows will be found most efficient. Brooms, dust-pan, 



THE BAY'S WORK, 43 

and brushes long and short, whisk-broom, feather and 
other dusters, should have one fixed place, and be returned 
to it after every using. If oil-cloth is on halls or passages, 
it should be washed weekly with warm milk and water, a 
quart of skim-milk to a pail of water being sufficient. 
Never use soap or scrubbing-brush, as they destroy both 
color and texture. 

All brass or silver-plated work about fire-place, door- 
knobs, or bath-room faucets, should be cleaned once a 
week and before sweeping. For silver, rub first with 
powdered whiting moistened with a little alcohol or hot 
water. Let it dr}^ on, and then polish with a dr}^ chamois- 
skin. If there is any intricate work, use a small tooth- 
brush. Whiting, silver-soap, cloths, chamois, and brushes 
should all be kept in a box together. In another may be 
the rotten-stone necessary for cleaning brass, a small 
bottle of oil, and some woolen cloths. Old merino or flan- 
nel under- wear makes excellent rubbing-cloths. Mix the 
rotten-stone with enough oil to make a paste ; rub on with 
one cloth, and polish with another. Thick gloves can be 
worn, and all staining of the hands avoided. 

The bedrooms and the necessary daily sweeping finished, 
a look mto cellar and store-rooms is next in order, — in 
the former, to see that no decaying vegetable matter is 
allowed to accumulate ; in the latter, that bread-jar or 
boxes are dry and sweet, and all stores in good condition. 

Where there are servants, it should be understood that 
the mistress makes this daily progress. Fifteen minutes or 
half an hour will often cover the time consumed ; but it should 
be a fixed duty never omitted. A look into the refrige- 
rator or meat-safe to note what is left and suggest the best 
use for it ; a glance at towels and dish-cloths to see that 



44 THE BAY'S WORK, 

all are clean and sweet, and another under all sinks and 
into each pantry, — will prevent the accumulation of bones 
and stra}^ bits of food and dirt}' rags, the paradise of the 
cockroach, and delight of mice and rats. A servant, if 
honest, will soon welcome such investigation, and respect 
her mistress the more for insisting upon it, and, if not, 
ma}' better find other quarters. One strong temptation to 
dishonesty is removed where such inspection is certain, and 
the weekly bills will be less than in the house where mat- 
ters are left to take care of themselves. 

The preparation of dinner if at or near the middle of 
the day, and the dish- washing which follows, end the 
heaviest portion of the day's work ; and the same order 
must be followed. Only an outline can be given ; each 
famil}' demanding variations in detail, and each head of a 
family in time building up her own system. Remember, 
however, that, if but one servant is kept, she can not do 
ever}' thing, and that your own brain must constantly sup- 
plement her deficiencies, until training and long practice 
have made your methods familiar. Even then she is 
likely at any moment to leave, and the battle to begin 
over again ; and the only safeguard in time of such dis- 
aster is personal knowledge as to simplest methods of 
doing the work, and inexhaustible patience in training 
the next applicant, finding comfort in the thought, that, if 
your own home has lost, that of some one else is by so 
much the gainer. 



FIBES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WOBK WITH. 45 



CHAPTER V. 
FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH. 

THE popular idea of a fire to cook by seems to be, a 
red-hot top, tlie cover of ever}^ pot and saucepan dan- 
cing over the bubbling, heaving contents, and coal packed 
in even with the covers. Try to convince a servant that 
the lid need not hop to assure boiling, nor the fire rise 
above the fire-box, and there is a profound skepticism, 
which, even if not expressed, finds vent in the same 
amount of fuel and the same general course of action as 
before the remonstrance. 

The modern stove has brought simplicit}" of working, 
and yet the highest point of convenience, nearly to perfec- 
tion. With full faith that the fuel of the future will be 
gas, its use is as yet, for many reasons, very limited ; the 
cost of gas in our smaller cities and towns preventing its 
adoption by any but the wealthy, who are really in least 
need of it. With the best gas-stoves, a large part of the 
disagreeable in cooking is done away. No flying ashes, 
no cinders, no uneven heat, affected by every change of 
wind, but a steady flame, regulated to any desired point, 
and, when used, requiring only a turn of the hand to end 
the operation. 

Ranges set in a solid brick-work are considered the 
best form of cooking-apparatus ; but there are some seri- 



46 FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK V/ITH. 

ous objections to their use, the first being the large amount 
of fuel required, and then the intense heat thrown out. 
Even with water in the house, they are not a necessity. 
A water-back, fully as effectual as the range w^ater-back, 
can be set in an}' good stove, and connected with a boiler, 
large or small, according to the size of the stove ; and for 
such stove, if properly managed, only about half the 
amount of coal will be needed. 

Fix thoroughly in 3'our minds the directions for mak- 
ing and keeping a fire ; for, b}' doing so, one of the 
heaviest expenses in housekeeping can be lessened fully 
half. 

First, then, remove the covers, and gather all ashes and 
cinders from the inside top of the stove, into the grate. 
Now put on the covers ; shut the doors ; close all the 
draughts, and dump the contents of the grate into the 
pan below. In some stoves there is an under-grate, to 
which a handle is attached ; and, this grate being shaken, 
the ashes pass through to the ash-pan, and the cinders 
remain in the grate. In that case, the}' can simply be 
shoveled out into the extra coal-hod, all pieces of clinker 
picked out, and a little water sprinkled on them. If all 
must be dumped together, a regular ash-sifter will be 
required, placed over a barrel which receives the ashes, 
while the cinders remain, and are to be treated as de- 
scribed. 

Into the grate put shavings or paper, or the fat pine 
known as lightwood. If the latter be used, paper is unne- 
cessary. Lay on some small sticks of wood, crossing them 
so that there may be a draught through them ; add then 
one or two sticks of hard wood, and set the shavings or 
paper on fire, seeing that every draught is open. As 



FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH. 47 

soon as the wood is well on fire, cover with about six 
inches of coal, the smaller, or nut-coal, being always 
best for stove use. When the coal is burning brightly, 
shut up all the dampers save the slide in front of the 
grate, and you will have a fire which will last, without 
poking or touching in any way, four hours. Even if a 
little more heat is needed for ovens, and you open the 
draughts, this rule still holds good. 

Never, for any reason, allow the coal to come above 
the edge of the fire-box or lining. If you do, ashes and 
cinders will fall into the oven-flues, and they will soon be 
choked up, and require cleaning. Another reason also lies 
in the fact that the stove-covers resting on red-hot coals 
soon burn out, and must be renewed ; whereas, by care- 
fully avoiding such chance, a stove may be used many 
3'ears without crack or failure of any sort. 

If fresh heat is required for baking or any purpose after 
the first four hours, let the fire burn low, then take off' 
the covers, and with the poker from the bottom rake out 
all the ashes thoroughly. Then put in two or three sticks 
of wood, fill as before with fresh coal, and the fire is good 
for another four hours or more. If only a light fire be 
required after dinner for getting tea, rake only slightly ; 
then fill with cinders^ and close all the dampers. Half an 
hour before using the stove, open them, and the fire will 
rekindle enough for any ordinary purpose. As there is 
great diflference in the ''drawing" of chimneys, the exact 
time required for making a fire can not be given. 

In using wood, the same principles apply ; but of course 
the fire must be fed much oftener. Grate-fires, as well as 
those in the ordinary stove, are to be made in much the 
same way. In a grate, a blower is fastened on until the coal 



48 FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WOEK WITH. 

is burning well ; but, if the fire is undisturbed after its re- 
newal, it should burn from six to eight hours w^ithout further 
attention. Then rake out the ashes, add coal, put on the 
blower a few minutes, and then proceed as before. If an 
exceedingl}^ slow fire is desired, cover the top with cinders, 
or with ashes moistened with water. In making a grate 
or stove fire, keep a coarse cloth to lay before it, that 
ashes may not spoil the carpet ; and wipe about the fire- 
place wdth a damp, coarse cloth. In putting on coal in 
a sick-room, where noise would disturb the patient, it is a 
good plan to put it in small paper bags or in pieces of 
newspaper, in which it can be laid on silently. A short 
table of degrees of heat in various forms of fuel is given 
below ; the degree required for baking, &c., finding place 
when we come to general operations in cooking. 

DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL. 

Willow charcoal' 600° Fah. 

Ordinary charcoal 700° ** 

Hard wood 800° to 900° '' 

Coal 1000° '' 

Lights are next in order. Gas hardly requires mention, 
as the care of it is limited to seeing that it is not turned 
too high, the flame in such case not only vitiating the air 
of the room with double speed, but leaving a film of smoke 
upon every thing in it. Kerosene is the oil most largely 
used for lamps ; and the light from either a student-lamp, 
or the lamp to which a "student-burner " has been applied, 
is the purest and steadiest now in use. A few simple 
rules for the care of lamps will prevent, not only danger 
of explosion, but much breakage of chimne^^s, smoking, &e. 

1 . Let the wick always touch the bottom of the lamp, 



FIEESy LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH. 49 

and see that the top is trimmed square and even across, 
with a pair of scissors kept for the purpose. 

2. Remember that a lamp, if burned with only a little 
oil in it, generates a gas which is liable at an}" moment to 
explode. Fill lamps to within half an inch of the top. If 
filled brimming full, the outside of the lamp will be con- 
stantly covered with the oil, even wJien unlighted ; while as 
soon as lighted, heat expanding it, it will run over, and 
grease every thing near it. 

3. In lighting a lamp, turn the wick up gradually, that 
the chimne}^ may heat slowly : otherwise the glass expands 
too rapidly, and will crack. 

4. Keep the wick turned high enough to burn freely. 
Many persons turn down the wick to save oil, but the room 
is quickly poisoned b}^ the evil smell from the gas thus 
formed. If necessary, as in a sick-room, to have little 
light, put the lamp in the hall or another room, rather 
than to turn it down. 

5. Remember, that, as with the fire, plenty of fresh air 
is necessar}" for a free blaze, and that your lamp must be 
kept as free from dirt as the stove from ashes. In wash- 
ing the chimneys, use hot suds ; and wipe with bits of 
newspaper, which not only dry the glass better than a 
cloth, but polish it also. 

6. In using either student-lamps, whether German or 
American, or the beautiful and costly forms known as 
moderator-lamps, remember, that, to secure a clear flame, 
the oil which accumulates in the cup below the wick, as 
well as any surplus which has overflowed from the reser- 
voir, must be poured out daily. The neglect of this pre- 
caution is the secret of much of the trouble attending the 
easy getting out of order of expensive lamps, which will 

4 



50 FIBES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH. 

cease to be sources of difficulty if this rule be followed 
carefully. 

7. Keep every thing used in such cleaning in a small 
box ; the ordinary starch-box with sliding lid being excel- 
lent for this purpose. Extra wicks, lamp-scissors, rags 
for wiping off oil, can all find place here. See that lamp- 
rags are burned now and then, and fresh ones taken ; as 
the smell of kerosene is very penetrating, and a room is 
often made unpleasant by the presence of dirty lamp-rags. 
If properly cared for, lamps need be no more offensive 
than gas. 

Things to work with. 

We have settled that our kitchen shall be neat, cheerful, 
and sunny, with closets as much as possible near enough 
together to prevent extra steps being taken. If the ser- 
vant is sufficiently well-trained to respect the fittings of a 
well-appointed kitchen, and to take pleasure in keeping 
them in order, the whole apparatus can be arranged in the 
kitchen-closets. If, however, there is any doubt on this 
point, it will be far better to have your own special table, 
and shelf or so above it, where the utensils required for 
your own personal use in delicate cooking can be arranged. 

In any kitchen not less than two tables are required : 
one for all rough work, — preparing meat, vegetables, (fee, 
and dishing up meals ; the other for general convenience. 
The first must stand as near the sink and fire as possible ; 
and close to it, on a dresser, which it is well to have just 
above the table and within reach of the hand, should be all 
the essentials for convenient work, namely : — 

A meat-block or board ; 

A small meat-saw ; 

A small cleaver and meat-knife ; 



FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WOBK WITH. 51 

Spoons, skewers, vegetable-cutters, and any other small 
conveniences used at this table, such as potato-slicer, lard- 
ing and trussing needles, &c. ; 

A chopping-knife and wooden tray or bowl ; 

Rolhng-pin, and bread and pastrj' board ; 

Narrow-bladed, very sharp knife for paring, the French 
cook-knife being the best ever invented for tliis purpose, 

A deep drawer in the table for holding coarse towels 
and aprons, balls of twine of two sizes, squares of cloth 
used in boiling delicate fish or meats, &c., will be found 
almost essential. Basting-spoons and many small articles 
can hang on small hooks or nails, and are more easily 
picked up than if one must feel over a shelf for them. 
These will be egg-beaters, graters, ladle, &c. The same 
dresser, or a space over the sink, must hold washing-pans 
for meat and vegetables, dish-pans, tin measures from a 
gill up to one quart, saucepans, milk-boiler, &c. Below 
the sink, the closet for iron-ware can be placed, or, if pre- 
ferred, be between sink and stove. A list in detail of 
every article required for a comfortably-fitted-up kitchen 
is given at the end of the book. House-furnishing stores 
furnish elaborate and confusing ones. The present list 
is simph^ what is needed for the most efficient work. 
Of course, as 3'ou experiment and advance, it may be 
enlarged ; but the simple outfit can be made to produce 
all the results likely to be needed, and many complicated 
patent arrangements are hindrances, rather than helps. 

The Iron-ivare closet must hold at least two iron pots, 
frying-pans large and small, and a Scotch kettle with fry- 
ing-basket for oysters, fish-balls, &c., — this kettle being a 
broad shallow one four or five inches deep. Roasting- 
pans, commonly called dripping-pans, are best of Russia 
iron. 



52 FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH. 

Tin-ware must include colander, gravy and jelly strain- 
ers, and vegetable-sifter or pu7^ee-s\e\e ; six tin pie-plates, 
and from four to six jellj^-cake tins with straight edges ; 
and at least one porcelain-lined kettle, holding not less 
than four quarts, while a three-gallon one for preserving 
and canning is also desirable ; 

Muffin rings or pans ; "gem-pans ; " 

Four bread-tins, of best tin (or, better still, Russia 
iron) , the best size for which is ten inches long by four 
wide and four deep ; the loaf baked in such pan requiring 
less time, and giving a slice of just the right shape and 
size ; 

Cake-tins of various shapes as desired, a set of small 
tins being desirable for little cakes. 

A small sifter in basket shape will be found good for 
cake-making, and a larger one for bread ; and spices can 
be most conveniently kept in a spice-caster, which is a 
stand holding six or eight small labeled canisters. Near 
it can also be small tin boxes or glass cans for dried 
sweet herbs, the salt-box, &c. 

The Crockery required will be : at least two large mix- 
ing-bowls, holding not less than eight or ten quarts, and 
intended for bread, cake, and many other purposes ; a 
bowl with lip to pour from, and also a smaller- sized one 
holding about two quarts ; half a dozen quart and pint 
bowls ; 

Half a dozen one- and two-quart round or oval pudding- 
dishes or nappies ; 

Several deep plates for use in putting away cold food ; 

Blancmange-molds, three sizes ; 

One large pitcher, also three-pint and quart sizes ; 

Yeast-jar, or, what is better, two or three Mason's glass 
cans, kept for yeast. 



FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH, 53 

This list does not include any crockery for setting a 
servant's table ; that being governed by the number kept, 
and other considerations. Such dishes should be of 
heavier ware than your own, as they are likely to receive 
rougher handling ; but there should be a full supply as one 
means of teaching neatness. 

Wooden-ware is essential in the shape of a nest of 
boxes for rice, tapioca, &c. ; and wooden pails for sugar, 
Graham-flour, &c. ; while you will gradually' accumulate 
many conveniences in the wa}- of jars, stone pots for 
pickling, demijohns, &c., which give the store-room, at 
last, the expression dear to all thrifty housekeepers. 

Scrubbing and water pails, scrubbing and blacking 
brushes, soap-dishes, sand-box, knife-board, and neces- 
sities in cleaning, must all find place, and, having found it, 
keep it to the end ; absolute order and sj^stem being the 
first condition of comfortable housekeeping. 



54 WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 



CHAPTER VI. 

WASHING-DAY, AND CliEANING IN GENERAL. 

TTTHY Monday should be fixed upon as washing-day, 
VV is often questioned ; but, like many other appar- 
ently arbitrary arrangements, its foundation is in common- 
sense. Tuesday has its advantages also, soon to be men- 
tioned ; but to any later period than Tuesday there are 
serious objections. All clothing is naturally changed on 
Sunda}^ ; and, if washed before dirt has had time to hard- 
en in the fiber of the cloth, the operation is much easier. 
The German custom, happily passing away, of washing 
onl}' annually or semi-annually, is both disgusting, and de- 
structive to health and clothes ; the air of whatever room 
such accumulations are stored in being poisoned, while 
the clothes themselves are rubbed to pieces in the endeavor 
to get out the long-seated dirt. 

A weekly wash being the necessity if perfect cleanliness 
exists, the simplest and best method of thoroughly accom- 
plishing it comes up for question. While few women are 
obliged to use their own hands in such directions, plenty 
of needy and unskilled workwomen who can earn a living 
in no other wa}^ being ready to relieve us, it is yet quite 
as necessary to know every detail, in order that the best 
work ma}^ be required, and that where there is ignorance 
of methods in such work they may be taught. 



WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 55 

The advantages of washing on Tuesday are, that it 
allows Monday for setting in order after the necessary 
rest of Sunday, gives opportunity to collect and put in 
soak all the soiled clothing, and so does away with the 
objection felt by many good people to performing this 
operation Sunday night. 

To avoid such sin, bed-clothing is often changed on Sat- 
urday ; but it seems only part of the freshness and sweet- 
ness which ought alwa^^s to make Sunday the white-day 
of the week, that such change should be made on that 
morning, while the few minutes required for sorting the 
clothes, and putting them in water, are quite as legitimate 
as any needed operation. 

If Monday be the da}^, then, Saturday night ma}' be 
chosen for filling the tubs, supposing the kitchen to be 
unfurnished with stationary tubs. Sunday night enough 
hot water can be added to make the whole just warm — 
not hot. Now put in one tub all fine things, — collars and 
cuffs, shirts and fine underwear. Bed-linen ma}' be added, 
or soaked in a separate tub ; but table-linen must of 
course be kept apart. Last, let the coarsest and most 
soiled articles have another. Do not add soap, as if there 
is any stain it is likely to set it. If the water is hard, a 
little borax may be added. And see that the clothes are 
pressed down, and well covered with water. 

Monday morning, and the earlier the better (the morn- 
ing sun dr}'ing and sweetening clothes better than the 
later), have the boiler full of clean warm suds. Soft soap 
may be used, or a bar of hard dissolved in hot water, and 
used like soft soap. All the water in which the clothes 
have soaked should be drained oflT, and the hot suds poured 
on. Begin with the cleanest articles, which when washed 



^Q WASHING-DAT, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 

carefull}' are wrung out, and put in a tub of warm water. 
Rinse out from this ; rub soap on all the parts which are 
most soiled, these parts being bands and sleeves, and put 
them in the boiler with cold water enough to cover them. 
To boil up once will be sufficient for fine clothes. Then 
take them out into a tub of clean cold water ; rinse them 
in this, and then in a tub of water made very slightly blue 
with the indigo-bag or liquid indigo. From this water 
they must be wrung out very dr}^, and hung out, alwa3's 
out of doors if possible. A wringer is much better than 
wringing by hand, as the latter is more unequal, and also 
often twists off buttons. The lines must be perfectly clean. 
A galvanized-iron wire is best of all ; as it never rusts, and 
needs only to be wiped off each week. If rope is used, 
never leave it exposed to weather, but bring it in after 
each washing. A dirty, weather-stained line will often 
ruin a nice garment. Leave clothes on the line till 
perfectly dry. If any fruit-stains are on napkins or table- 
cloths, lay the stained part over a bowl, and pour on 
boiling water till they disappear. Ink can be taken out if 
the spot is washed while fresh, in cold water, or milk and 
water ; and a little salt will help in taking out wine-stains. 
Machine-oil must have a little lard or butter rubbed on the 
spot, which is then to be washed in warm suds. Never 
rub soap directly on any stain, as it sets it. For iron- 
rust, spread the garment in the sun, and cover the spot 
with salt ; then squeeze on lemon-juice enough to wet it. 
This is much safer and quite as sure as the acids sold for 
this purpose. In bright sunshine the spot will disappear 
in a few hours. 

Remember that long boiling does not improve clothes. 
If washed clean, simply scalding is all that is required. 



WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 57 

If delicate curtains, either lace or muslin, are to be 
washed, allow a table-spoonful of powdered borax to two 
gallons of warm water, and soap enough to make a strong 
suds. Soak the curtains in this all night. In the morn- 
ing add more warm water, and press every part between 
the hands, without rubbing. Put them in fresh suds, and, 
if the water still looks dark after another washing, take 
still another. Boil and rinse as in directions given for 
other clothes. Starch with very thick hot starch, and 
dry, not by hanging out, and then ironing, but b}^ put- 
ting a light common mattress in the sun, and pinning 
the curtain upon it, stretching carefully as you pin. One 
mattress holds two, which will dry in an hour or two. If 
there is no sun, lay a sheet on the floor of an unused 
room, and pin the curtains down upon it. 

In washing flannels, remember that it must be done in 
a sunny day, that they may dry as rapidl}^ as possible. 
Put them into hot suds. Do not rub them on a washing- 
board, as this is one means of fulling and ruining them. 
Press and rub them in the hands, changing them soon to 
fresh hot suds. Einse in a pail of clear hot water; 
wring very dry ; shake, and hang at once in the sun. 
Flannels thus treated, no matter how delicate, retain their 
softness and smoothness, and do not shrink. 

Starch is the next consideration, and is made in two 
ways, — either raw or boiled. Boiled starch is made by 
adding cold water to raw starch in the proportion of one 
cup of water to three-quarters of a cup of starch, and 
then pouring on boiling water till it has thickened to a 
smooth mass, constantly stirring as j^ou pour. A bit of 
butter is added by many excellent laundresses, the bit 
not to be larger than a filbert. Any thing starched with 



58 washing-day, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 

boiled starch must be dried and sprinkled before ironing, 
while with raw starch this is not necessary. 

To make raw starch, allow four even table- spoonfuls to 
a half- pint of cold water. Dip collars, cuffs, and shirt- 
bosoms, or an}' thing which must be ver}' stiff, into this 
starch, being careful to have them dry. When wet, clap 
them well between the hands, as this distributes the starch 
evenly among the fibers of the cloth. The same rule 
must be followed in using boiled starch. Roll the articles 
in a damp cloth, as this makes them iron more smoothly ; 
and in an hour they will be ready for the iron. In using 
boiled starch, after the articles have been dried, and then 
dampened b}^ sprinkling water lightly upon them, either 
b}' the hand, or by shaking over them a small whisk- 
broom which is dipped as needed in water, it is better 
to let them lie ten or twelve hours. 

All clothes require this folding and dampening. Sheets 
and table-cloths should be held by two persons, shaken 
and '' snapped," and then folded carefully, stretching the 
edges if necessary. 

Colored clothing must be rinsed before starching, and 
the starch should be thin and cool. 

For ironing neatly and well, there will be required, 
half a dozen flat-irons, steel bottoms preferred ; a skirt- 
board and bosom-board, both covered, first with old blan- 
ket or carpet, then with thick strong cotton- cloth, and 
over this a cover of lighter cloth, sewed on so that it may 
be removed as often as may be necessary to wash it. If 
a bag the size of each is made, and they are hung up 
in this as soon as used, such washing need ver}^ sel- 
dom be. Having these, many dispense with ironing-sheet 
and blanket ; but it is better to use a table for all large 



WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 59 

articles, and on this the ironing-sheet can be pinned, or 
tied by tapes, or strips of cloth, sewed to each corner. A 
stand on which to set the irons, a paper and coarse cloth 
to rub them off on, and a bit of yellow wax tied in a cloth, 
and used to remove any roughness from the iron, are the 
requirements of the ironing-table. 

Once a month, while the irons are still slightl}^ warm, 
wash them in warm water in which a little lard has been 
melted. Never let them stand day after day on the stove, 
and never throw cold water on them, as it makes them 
very rough. 

If the starch clings to the irons, put a little Bristol-brick 
on a board, and rub them up and down till free. If they 
are too hot for use, put in a current of air a few moments ; 
and in all cases try them on a piece of paper or cloth be- 
fore putting them on a garment. If through carelessness 
or accident an article is scorched, lay it in the hottest sun- 
shine to be found. If the fiber is not burned, this will 
often take the spot entirel}' out. 

Let the ironed clothes hang in the air for at least 
twenty-four hours after ironing. Unaired sheets have 
often brought on fatal sickness. Examine all clothes sent 
up from the wash. If the laundress is sure this inspec- 
tion will take place, it is a constant spur to working in the 
best waj', and a w^ord of praise for good points is always 
a stimulus. Mending should be done as the clothes are 
looked over, before putting away. Place the sheets from 
each wash at the bottom of the pile, that the same ones 
may not be used over and over, but all come in rotation ; 
and the same with table-linen. If the table-cloth in use 
is folded carefully in the creases, and kept under a heavy 
piece of plank, it will retain a fresh look till soiled. 



60 WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENEBAL. 

Special hints as to washing blankets and dress-materials 
will be given in the latter part of the book. 

However carefully and neatly a house may be kept, it 
requires a special putting in order, known as House-dean- 
ing^ at least once a year. Spring and fall are both 
devoted to it in New England ; and, if the matter be con- 
ducted quietly, there are many advantages in the double 
cleaning. In a warmer climate, where insect-life is more 
troublesome and the reign of flies lasts longer, two clean- 
ings are rather a necessity. As generally managed, they 
are a terror to ever}^ one, and above all to gentlemen, who 
resent it from beginning to end. No wonder, if at the 
first onslaught all home comfort ends, and regular meals 
become irregular lunches, and a quiet night's rest some- 
thing sought but not found. 

A few simple rules govern here, and will rob the ordeal 
of half its terrors. 

If coal or wood are to be laid in for the j^ear's supply, 
let it be done before cleaning begins, as much dust is 
spread through the house in such work. 

Heavy carpets do not require taking up every year ; once 
in two, or even three, being sufficient unless they are in 
constant use. Take out the tacks, however, each year ; 
fold back the carpet half a yard or so ; have the floor 
washed with a strong suds in which borax has been dis- 
solved, — a tablespoonful to a pail of water ; then dust 
black pepper along the edges, and retack the carpet. By 
this means moths are kept away; and, as their favorite 
place is in corners and folds, this laying back enables one 
to search out and destroy them. 

Sapolio is better than sand for scouring paint, and in 
all cases a little borax in the water makes such work 
easier. 



WASEING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 61 

Closets should be put in order first ; all winter clothing 
packed in trunks, or put in bags made from several thick- 
nesses of newspaper, printers' ink being one of the most 
effectual protections against moths. Gum-camphor is 
also excellent ; and, if you have no camphor-wood chest 
or closet, a pound of the gum, sewed into little bags, will 
last for years. In putting away clothing, blankets, &c., 
look all over, and brush and shake with the utmost care 
before folding, in order to get rid of any possible moth- 
eggs. 

If matting is used, wipe it with borax-water, using a 
cloth wet enough to dampen but not wet. 

Window-glass thoroughly washed can be dried and pol- 
ished with old newspapers ; or whiting can be used, and 
rubbed off with a woolen cloth. 

Hard- wood furniture, black walnut, or other varieties, 
requires oiling lightly with boiled linseed oil, and rubbing 
dry with a woolen cloth ; and varnished furniture, ma- 
hogany or rosewood, if kept carefully dusted, requires 
only an occasional rubbing with chamois-skin or thick 
flannel to retain its polish perfectly. Soap should never 
be used on varnish of an}' sort. 

Ingrain and other carpets, after shaking, are brightened 
in color b}' sprinkling a pound or two of salt over the 
surface, and sweeping carefull}^ ; and it is also useful to 
occasionally wipe off a carpet with borax-water, using a 
thick flannel, and taking care not to wet, but only dampen 
the carpet. Mirrors can be cleaned with whiting. Never 
scrub oil-pictures : simply wipe with a damp cloth, and, if 
picture-cord is used, wipe it off to secure against moths. 

It is impossible to cover the whole ground of cleaning 
in this chapter. Experience is the best teacher. Only 



62 WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. 

remember that a household earthquake is not necessary, 
and that the whole work can be done so gradual!}^, quietly, 
and systematically, that only the workers need know much 
about it. The sense of purity transfused through the air 
and breathing from ever}' nook and corner should be the 
only indication that upheaval has existed. The best work 
is always in silence. 



THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 63 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 

" r I ^HE lamp of life" is a very old metaphor for the 

-L mysterious principle vitalizing nerve and muscle ; 
but no comparison could be so apt. The full-grown adult 
takes in each day, through lungs and mouth, about eight 
and a half pounds of dry food, water, and the air necessary 
for breathing purposes. Through the pores of the skin, 
the lungs, kidneys, and lower intestines, there is a corre- 
sponding waste ; and both suppl}^ and waste amount in a 
year to one and a half tons, or three thousand pounds. 

The steadiness and clear shining of the flame of a lamp 
depend upon quality as well as amount of the oil sup- 
plied, and, too, the texture of the wick ; and so all human 
life and work are equally made or marred by the food 
which sustains life, as well as the nature of the constitution 
receiving that food. 

Before the nature and quality of food can be considered, 
we must know the constituents of the body to be fed, 
and something of the process through which digestion and 
nutrition are accomplished. 

I shall take for granted that you have a fairly plain idea 
of the stomach and its dependences. Phj^siologies can 
always be had, and for minute details they must be referred 
to. Bear in mind one or two main points : that all food 
passes from the mouth to the stomach, an irregularly- 



64 THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 

shaped pouch or bag with an opening into the duodenum, 
and from thence into the larger intestine. From the mouth 
to the end of this intestine, the whole may be called the 
alimentary canal ; a tube of varying size and some thirty- 
six feet in length. The mouth must be considered part of 
it, as it is in the mouth that digestion actually begins ; 
all starch}^ foods depending upon the action of the saliva 
for genuine digestion, saliva having some strange power 
by which starch is converted into sugar. Swallowed 
whole, or placed directly in the stomach, such food passes 
through the body unchanged. Each division of the ali- 
mentary canal has its own distinct digestive juice, and I 
give them in the order in which they occur. 

First, The saliva ; secreted from the glands of the 
mouth : — alkaline, glairy, adhesive. 

Second, The gastric juice ; secreted in the inner or third 
lining of the stomach, — an acid, and powerful enough to 
dissolve all the fiber and albumen of flesh food. 

Third, The pancreatic juice ; secreted by the pancreas, 
which you know in animals as sweetbreads. This juice 
has a peculiar influence upon fats, which remain unchanged 
by saliva and gastric juice ; and not until dissolved by 
pancreatic juice, and made into what chemists call an 
emulsion^ can they be absorbed into the system. 

Fourth, The bile ; which no physiologist as yet thor- 
oughly understands. We know its action, but hardly why 
it acts. It is a necessity, however ; for if by disease the 
supply be cut off, an animal emaciates and soon dies. 

Fifth, The intestinal juice ; which has some properties 
like saliva, and is the last product of the digestive forces. 

A meal, then, in its passage downward is first diluted 
and increased in bulk b}" a watery fluid which prepares all 



THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 65 

the starchy portion for absorption. Then comes a still 
more profuse fluid, dissolving all the meaty part. Then 
the fat is attended to by the stream of pancreatic juice, 
and at the same time the bile pours upon it, doing its own 
work in its own mysterious way ; and last of all, lest any 
process should have been imperfect, the long canal sends 
out a juice having some of the properties of all. 
Thus each day's requirements call for 

PINTS. 

Of saliva 3| 

gastric juice 12 

bile 3f 

pancreatic juice li 

intestinal juice -J 

Do not fancy this is all wasted or lost. Very far from 
it : for the whole process seems to be a second circulation, 
as it were ; and, while the blood is moving in its wonderful 
passage through veins and arteries, another circulation as 
wonderful, an endless current going its unceasing round 
so long as life lasts, is also taking place. But without 
food the first would become impossible ; and the quality of 
food, and its proper digestion, mean good or bad blood as 
the case may be. We must follow our mouthful of food, 
and see how this action takes place. 

When the different juices have all done their work, the 
chyme, which is food as it passes from the stomach into 
the duodenum or passage to the lower stomach or bowels, 
becomes a milkj^ substance called chyle^ which moves 
slowly, pushed by numberless muscles along the bowel, 
which squeeze much of it into little glands at the back of 
the bowels. These are called the mesenteric glands ; and, 

5 



66 THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION, 

as each one receives its portion of chyle, a wonderful thing 
happens. About half of it is changed into small round 
bodies called corpuscles, and they float with the rest of 
the milky fluid through delicate pipes which take it to a 
sort of bag just in front of the spine. To this bag is 
fastened another pipe or tube — the thoracic duct — which 
follows the line of the spine ; and up this tube the small 
bodies travel till they come to the neck and a spot where 
two veins meet. A door in one opens, and the transfor- 
mation is complete. The small bodies are raw food no 
more, but blood, traveling fast to where it may be purified, 
and begin its endless round in the best condition. For, as 
you know, venous blood is still impure and dirty blood. 
Before it can be really alive it must pass through the 
veins to the right side of the heart, flow through into the 
upper chamber, then through another door or valve into 
the lower, where it is pumped out into the lungs. If these 
lungs are, as they should be, full of pure air, each cor- 
puscle is so charged with ox3'gen, that the last speck of 
impurity is burned up, and it goes dancing and bounding 
on its wa}^ That is what health means : perfect food 
made into perfect blood, and giving that sense of strength 
and exhilaration that we none of us know half as much 
about as we should. We get it sometimes on mountain- 
tops in clear autumn days when the air is like wine ; but 
God meant it to be our daily portion, and this very de- 
spised knowledge of cookery is to bring it about. If a 
lung is imperfect, supplied onl}^ with foul air as among the 
very poor, or diseased as in consumption, food does not 
nourish, and 3^ou now know why. We have found that the 
purest air and the purest water contain the largest propor- 
tion of oxygen ; and it is this that vitalizes both food and, 
through food, the blood. 



THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION, 67 

To nourish this body, then, demands many elements ; 
and to study these has been the joint work of chemists 
and phj'siologists, till at last every constituent of the body 
is known and classified. Many as these constituents are, 
they are all resolved into the simple elements, oxygen, 
hydrogen, nitrogen, and carbon, while a little sulphur, a 
little phosphorus, lime, chlorine, sodium, &c., are added. 

Flesh and Blood are composed of water, fat, fibrine, 
albumen, gelatine, and the compounds of lime, phos- 
phorus, soda, potash, magnesia, iron, &c. 

Bone contains cartilage, gelatine, fat, and the salts of 
lime, magnesia, soda, &c., in combination with phosphoric 
and other acids. 

Cartilage consists of chondrine, a substance somewhat 
like gelatine, and contains also the salts of sulphur, lime, 
soda, potash, phosphorus, magnesia, and iron. 

Bile is made up of water, fat, resin, sugar, cholesterine, 
some fatty acids, and the salts of potash, iron, and soda. 

The Brain is made up of water, albumen, fat, phos- 
phoric acid, osmazone, and salts. 

The Liver unites water, fat, and albumen, with phos- 
phoric and other acids, and lime, iron, soda, and potash. 

The Lungs are formed of two substances : one like gel- 
atine ; another of the nature of caseine and albumen, 
fibrine, cholesterine, iron, water, soda, and various fatty 
and organic acids. 

How these varied elements are held together, even 
science with all its deep searchings has never told. No 
man, by whatsoever combination of elements, has ever 
made a living plant, much less a living animal. No bet- 
ter comparison has ever been given than that of Youmans, 
who makes a table of the analogies between the human 
body and the steam-engine, which I give as it stands. 



68 



THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 



A:N'AL0GIES of the STEAM-EIN'GIIS'E AKD the LIYIIS^G 

BODY. 



The Steam Engine in Action 
takes : 

1. Fuel: coal and wood, both 

combustible. 

2. Water for evaporation. 

3. Air for combustion. 



And Produces : 



4. 



5. 



6 



A steady boiling heat of 212*^ 
by quick combustion. 

Smoke loaded with carbonic 
acid and watery vapor. 

Incombustible ashes. 

7. Motive force of simple alter- 

nate push and pull in the 
piston, which, acting 
through wheels, bands, and 
levers, does work of endless 
variety. 

8. A deficiency of fuel, water, or 

air, disturbs, then stops the 
motion. 



The Animal Body in Life takes : 

1. Food: vegetables and flesh, 

both combustible. 

2. Water for circulation. 

3. Air for respiration. 

And Produces: 

4. A steady animal heat, by slow 

combustion, of 98°. 

5. Expired breath loaded with 

carbonic acid and watery 
vapor. 

6. Incombustible animal refuse. 

7. Motive force of simple alter- 

nate contraction and relaxa- 
tion in the muscles, which, 
acting through joints, ten- 
dons, and levers, does work 
of endless variety. 

8. A deficiency of food, drink, or 

air, first disturbs, then stops 
the motion and the life. 



Carrying out this analogy, you will at once see why a 
person working hard with either bodj" or mind requires 
more food than the one who does but little. The food 
taken into the human body can never be a simple element. 
We do not feed on plain, undiluted oxygen or nitrogen ; 
and, while the composition of the human body includes 
really sixteen elements in all, oxygen is the only one used 
in its natural state. I give first the elements as they exist 
in a body weighing about one hundred and fifty-four 



THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION, 



69 



pounds, this being the average weight of a full-grown 
man ; and add a table, compiled from different sources, of 
the composition of the bodj' as made up from these ele- 
ments. Dry as such details may seem, the^^ are the only 
key to a full understanding of the body, and the laws of 
the body, so far as the food-supply is concerned ; though 
you will quickly find that the day's food means the daj^'s 
thought and work, well or ill, and that in your hands is 
put a power mightier than 3'OU know, — the power to build 
up body, and through body the soul, into a strong and 
beautiful manhood and womanhood. 

ELEMENTS OF THE HUMAN BODY. 



1. Oxygen, a gas, and supporter of combustion, 

weighs 

2. Carbon, a solid; found most nearly pure in char- 

coal. Carbon in the body combines with other 
elements to produce carbonic-acid gas, and by 
its burning sets heat free. Its weight is . 

S, Hydrogen, a gas, is a part of all bone, blood, and 
muscle, add weighs 

4:. Nitrogen, a gas, is also part of all muscle, blood, 
and bone ; weighing 

5. Phosphorus, a solid, found in brain and bones, 

weighs 

6. Sulphur, a solid, found in all parts of the body, 

weighs 

7. Chlorine, a gas, found in all parts of the body, 

weighs 

8. Fluorine, supposed to be a gas, is found with cal- 

cium in teeth and bones, and weighs . 

9. Silicon, a solid, found united with oxygen in the 

hair, skin, bile, bones, blood, and saliva, weighs 



Lbs. 


Oz. 


103 


2 


18 


11 


4 


14 


4 


14 


1 


12 





8 





4 





3 









Grs. 
335 

150 




25 



150 

300 

14 



70 THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 

ELEMEN^TS OF THE HUMA:N' B0T>Y. — Continued. 





Lbs. 


Oz. 


Grs. 


10. Magnesium, a metal found in union with phos- 




phoric acid in the bones 





2 


250 


11. Potassium, a metal, the basis of potash, is found 








as phosphate and chloride ; weighs . 





3 


340 


12. Sodium, a metal, basis of soda; weighs . 





3 


217 


13. Calcium, a metal, basis of lime, found chiefly in 








bones and teeth ; weighs 


3 


13 


190 


14. Iron, a metal essential in the coloring of the 








blood, and found everywhere in the body ; 








weighs 








65 


15. Manganese. ) Faint traces of both these met- 

16. Copper metals. ) als are found in brain and blood, 














but in too minute portions to be given by 








weight. 








Total 


154 









The second table gives the combinations of these ele- 
ments ; and, though a knowledge of such combinations is 
not as absolutely essential as the first, we still can not well 
dispense with it. The same weight — one hundred and 
fift3'-four pounds — is taken as the standard. 



COMPOSITION OF THE BODY. 





Lbs. 

109 

15 

8 


Oz. 


Grs. 


1. Water, which is found in every part of the body, 

and amounts to 

2. Fibrine, and like substances, found in the blood, 

and forming the chief solid materials of the 
flesh 

3. Phosphate of lime, chiefly in bones and teeth, but 

in all liquids and tissues 




10 
12 









THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 
COMPOSITIOIS' OF THE BODY, — Continued. 



71 



4. Fat, a mixture of three cliomical compounds, 

and distributed all through tlie body 

5. Osseine, the organic framework of bones; boiled, 

gives gelatine. Weight 

6. Keratine, a nitrogenous substance, forming the 

greater part of hair, nails, and skin. Weighs 

7. Cartilagine resembles the osseine of bone, and is a 

nitrogenous substance, the chief constituent of 
cartilage, weighing 

8. Hfemoglobine gives the red color to blood, and is 

a nitrogenous substance containing iron, and 
weighing 

9. Albumen is a soluble nitrogenous substance, 

found in the blood, chyle, lymph, and muscle, 
and weighs 

10. Carbonate of lime is found in the bones chiefly, 

and weighs 

11. Hephalin is found in nerves and brain, with 

cerebrine and other compounds .... 

12. Fluoride of calcium is found in teeth and bones,' 

and weighs 

13. Phosphate of magnesia is also in teeth and bones, 

and weighs 

14. Chloride of sodium, or common salt, is found in 

all parts of the body, and weighs 

15. Cholesterine, glycogen, and inosite are com- 

pounds containing hydrogen, oxygen, and car- 
bon, found in muscle, liver, and brain, and 

weighing 

1(5. Sulphate phosphate, and salts of sodium, found 
in all tissues and liquids 

17. Sulphate, phosphate, and chloride of potassium, 

are also in all tissues and liquids 

18. Silica, found in hair, skin, and bone 



Lbs. 


Oz. 


4 


8 


4 


7 


4 


2 


1 


8 


1 


8 


1 


1 


1 


1 





13 





7 





7 





7 





3 





2 






1 



154 








350 










175 





107 

300 
30 



72 THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. 

With this basis, to give us some understanding of the 
complicated and delicate machinery with which we must 
work, the question arises, what food contains all these 
constituents, and what its amount and character must be. 
The answer to this question will help us to form an intelli- 
gent plan for providing a family with the right nutrition. 



FOOD AND ITS LAWS. 73 



CHAPTER VIII. 

FOOD AND ITS LAWS. 

WE have found, that, in analyzing the constituents of 
the bod}^ water is the largest part ; and turning 
to food, whether animal or vegetable, the same fact holds 
good. It forms the larger part of all the drinks, of fruits, 
of succulent vegetables, eggs, fish, cheese, the cereals, 
and even of fats. 

Fat is found in butter, lard, drippings, milk, eggs, 
cheese, fish, meat, the cereals, leguminous vegetables, — 
such as pease and beans, — nuts, cocoa, and chocolate. 

Sugar abounds in fruits and vegetables, and is found in 
milk and cereals. 

Starch, which under the action of the saliva changes 
into glucose or grape-sugar, is present in vegetables and 
cereals. 

Flesh foods, called as often nitrogenous foods, from 
containing so large a proportion of nitrogen, are made up 
of fibrine, albumen, caseine, gelatine, and gluten ; the first 
four elements being present in flesh, the latter in vegetables. 

Salts of various forms exist in both animal and vegeta- 
ble food. In meat, fish, and potatoes are found phospho- 
rus, lime, and magnesia. Common salt is largely made 
up of soda, but is. found with potash in many vegetables. 
This last element is also in meat, fish, milk, vegetables, 



74 FOOD AND ITS LAWS, 

and fruits. Iron abounds in flesh and vegetables ; and 
sulphur enters into albumen, easeine, and fibrine. 

The simplest division of food is into flesh-formers and 
heat-producers; the former being as often called nitrogen- 
ous food, or albumenoids ; the latter, heat-giving or car- 
bonaceous foods. Much minuter divisions could be made, 
but these two cover the ground sufficiently well. For a 
healthy body both are necessary, but climate and consti- 
tution will always make a difference in the amounts re- 
quired. Thus, in a keen and long-continued winter, the 
most condensed forms of carbonaceous foods will be 
needed ; while in summer a small portion of nitrogenous 
food to nourish muscle, and a large amount of cooling 
fruits and vegetables, are indicated ; both of these, though 
more or less carbonaceous in character, containing so 
much water as to neutralize any heat-producing effects. 

Muscle being the first consideration in building up a 
strong body, we need first to find out the values of differ- 
ent foods as flesh-formers, healthy flesh being muscle in 
its most perfect condition. Flesh and fat are never to be 
confounded, fat being really a species of disease, — the 
overloading of muscle and tissue with what has no rightful 
place there. There should be onl}" enough fat to round 
over the muscle, but never hide its play. The table given 
is the one in use in the food-gallery of the South Kensing- 
ton Museum, and includes not only the nutritive value, but 
the cost also, of each article ; taking beef as the standard 
with which other animal foods are to be compared, beef 
being the best-known of all meats. Among vegetables, 
lentils really contain most nourishment ; but wheat is cho- 
sen as being much more familiar, lentils being very little 
used in this country save by the German part of the popu- 



FOOD AND ITS LAWS. 



/o 



lation, and having so strong and peculiar a flavor that we 
are never Hkely to largely adopt their use. 

About an equal amount of nourishment is found in the 
varied amounts mentioned in the table which follows : — 

TABLE. 

Eight ounces of lean beef (half-pound) 

Ten ounces of dried lentils . 

Eleven ounces of pease or beans 

Twelve ounces of cocoa-nibs 

Fourteen ounces of tea 

Fifteen ounces of oatmeal 

One pound and one ounce of wheaten flour 

One pound and one ounce of coffee 

One pound and two ounces of rye-flour 

One pound and three ounces of barley 

One pound and five ounces Indian meal 

One pound and thirteen ounces of buckwheat-flour 

Two pounds of wheaten bread 

Two pounds and six ounces of rice 

Five pounds and three ounces of cabbage . 

Five pounds and three ounces of onions 

Eight pounds and fifteen ounces of turnips 

Ten pounds and seven ounces of potatoes 

Fifteen pounds and ten ounces of carrots . 

Now, because tea, coffee, and cocoa approach so nearly 
in value as nutriment to beef and lentils, we must not be 
misled. Fourteen ounces of tea are equivalent to half a 
pound of meat ; but a repast of drj^ tea not being very 
usual, m fact, being out of the question altogether, it 
becomes plain, that the principal value of these foods, 
used as we must use them, in very small quantities, is in 
the warmth and comfort they give. Also, these weights 
(except the bread) are of uncooked food. Eight ounces 
of meat would, if boiled or roasted, dwindle to five or six, 
while the ten ounces of lentils or beans would swell to twice 



Cost about 


6 cts. 


7 




5 




20 




40 




5 




4 




30 




5 




5 




5 




10 




10 




20 




10 




15 




9 




10 




15 





76 FOOD AND ITS LAWS. 

the capacity of any ordinary stomach. So, ten pounds 
of potatoes are required to give you the actual benefit con- 
tained in the few ounces of meat ; and only the Irishman 
fresh from his native cabin can calmly consider a meal of 
that magnitude, while, as to carrots, neither Irishman nor 
German, nor the most determined and enterprising Ameri- 
can, could for a moment face the spectacle of fifteen 
pounds served up for his noonday meal. 

The inference is plain. Union is strength, here as else- 
where ; and the perfect meal must include as man}' of 
these elements as will make it not too bulky, yet borrow- 
ing flavor and substance wherever necessary. 

As a rule, the food best adapted to climate and consti- 
tution seems to have been instinctively decided upon by 
many nations ; and a stud}^ of national dishes, and their 
adaptation to national needs ^ is curious and interesting. 
The Esquimaux or Greenlander finds his most desirable 
meal in a lump of raw blubber, the most condensed form 
of carbonaceous food being required to preserve life. It 
is not a perverted taste, but the highest instinct ; for in 
that cruel cold the body must furnish the food on which 
the keen air draws, and the lamp of life there has a very 
literal supply. 

Take now the other extreme of temperature, — the 
East Indies, China, Africa, and part even of the West 
Indies and America, — and you find rice the universal 
food. There is very little call, as 3'ou may judge, for heat- 
producers, but rather for flesh-formers ; and starch and 
sugar both fulfill this end, the rice being chiefly starch, 
which turns into sugar under the action of the saliva. 
Add a little melted butter, the East Indian ghee., or olive- 
oil used in the West Indies instead, and we have all the 
elements necessary for life under those conditions. 



FOOD AND ITS LAWS. 77 

A few degrees northward, and the same rice is mingled 
with bits of fish or meat, as in the Turkish pilau ^ a dish 
of rice to which mutton or poultry is added. 

The wandering Arab finds in his few dates, and hand- 
ful of parched wheat or maize, the sugar and starch hold- 
ing all the heat required, while his draught of mare's or 
camel's milk, and his occasional pilau of mutton, give 
him the various elements which seem sufficient to make 
him the model of endurance, blitheness, and muscular 
power. So the Turkish burden-bearers who pick up a 
two-hundred-pound bag of coffee as one picks up a pebble, 
use much the same diet, though adding melons and 
cucumbers, which are eaten as we eat apples. 

The noticeable point in the Italian dietary is the uni- 
versal and profuse use of macaroni. Chestnuts and Indian 
corn, the meal of which is made into a dish called polenta^ 
something like our mush, are also used, but macaroni is 
found at every table, noble or peasant's. No form of 
wheat presents such condensed nourishment, and it de- 
serves larger space on our own bills of fare than we have 
ever given it. 

In Spain we find the olla podrida^ a dish containing, as 
chief ingredient, the garbanzo or field-pea : it is a rich 
stew, of fowls or bacon, red peppers, and pease. Red 
pepper enters into most of the dishes in torrid climates, 
and there is a good and sufficient reason for this apparent 
mistake. Intense and long-continued heat weakens the 
action of the liver, and thus lessens the suppl}^ of bile ; and 
red pepper has the power of stimulating the liver, and so 
assisting digestion. East Indian curries, and the Mexican 
and Spanish olla^ are therefore founded on common-sense. 

In France the pot-au-feu^ or soup-pot, simmers in every 



78 FOOD AND ITS LAWS. 

peasant or middle-class home, and is not to be despised 
even in richer ones. In this dish, a small portion of meat 
is cooked so judiciously as to flavor a large, mass of vege- 
tables and broth ; and this, served with salad and oil and 
bread, forms a meal which can hardly be surpassed in its 
power of making the most of ever}- constituent offered. 
In German}' soups are a national dish also ; but their 
extreme fondness for pork, especially raw ham and sau- 
sage, is the source of man}' diseases. Sweden, Norway, 
Russia, — all the far northern countries, — tend more and 
more to the oily diet of the Esquimaux, fish being a large 
part of it. There is no room for other illustrations ; but, 
as you learn the properties of food, you will be able to 
read national dietaries, from the Jewish down, with a 
new understanding of what power food had and has in 
forming national peculiarities. 

It is settled, then, that to renew our muscles which are 
constantly wearing out, we must eat the food containing 
the same constituents ; and these we find in meat, milk, 
eggs, and the entire gluten of grains, &c., as in wheaten- 
grits or oatmeal. 

Fat and heat must come to us from the starches and 
sugars, in sufficient supply to ''put a layer of wadding 
between muscles and skin, fill out the wrinkles, and keep 
one warm." To find out the proportion needed for one's 
own individual constitution, is the first work for all of us. 
The laborer requires one thing, the growing child an- 
other, the man or woman whose labor is purely intel- 
lectual another ; and to understand how best to meet 
these needs, demands a knowledge to which most of us 
have been indifferent. If there is excess or lack of any 
necessary element, that excess or lack means disease, and 



FOOD AND ITS LAWS. 79 

for such disease we are wholly responsible. Food is not 
the only and the universal elixir of life ; for weak or poor 
blood is often an inheritance, and comes to one tainted 
by family diseases, or by defects in air or climate in 
general. But, even when outward conditions are most 
disastrous, perfect food has power to avert or alter their 
effects ; and the child who begins Hfe burdened with 
scrofulous or other diseases, and grows to a pale, weak, 
unwholesome 3'outh, and either a swift passing into the 
next world, or a life here of hopeless invalidism, can, 
nine times out of ten, have this course of things stopped 
by scientific understanding of what foods are necessary 
for such conditions. 

I propose to take the life of one who from babyhood up 
has been fed on the best food, perfectly prepared, and to 
give the tables of such food for different periods in that 
life, allowing only such digression as will show the effects 
of an opposite course of treatment ; thus showing the re- 
lations of food to health, — a more necessar}^ and vital 
form of knowledge than any other that the world owns. 



80 THE BELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH, 



CHAPTER IX. 
THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. 

WE begin, then, with a tj^pical baby, born of civilized 
parents, and living in the midst of the best civili- 
zation to be had. Savage or even partially civilized life 
could never furnish the type we desire. It is true, as we 
have seen, that natural laws, so deeply planted that they 
have become instincts, have given to many wild nations a 
dietary meeting their absolute needs ; but only civilization 
can find the key to these modes, and make past experience 
pay tribute to present knowledge. We do not want an 
Indian baby, bound and swathed like a little mummy, 
hanging from the pole of a wigwam, placidly sucking a 
fish's tail, or a bone of boiled dog ; nor an Esquimaux 
baby, with its strip of blubber ; nor the Hottentot, with 
its rope of jerked beef; nor the South-sea Islander, with 
its half-cocoanut. Nor will we admit the average Irish 
baby, among the laboring classes in both city and country, 
brought to the table at three months old to swallow its 
portion of coffee or tea ; nor the small German, whom at 
six months I have seen swallowing its little mug of lager 
as philosophically as its serious-faced father. That these 
babies have fevers and rashes, and a host of diseases 
peculiar to that age, is a matter of course ; and equally a 
matter of course that the round-eyed mother wonders 



THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. 81 

where it got its dreadful disposition, but scorns the 
thought that lager or coffee can be irritants, or that the 
baby stomach requires but one food, and that one the uni- 
versal food of all 3'oung animal life, — milk. 

Take, then, our typical baby, lying fresh and sweet in 
the well aired and Ughted room we suppose to be his 
birthright. The bones are still soft, the tender flesh and 
skin with little or no power of resistance. Muscles, 
nerves, all the wonderful tissues, are in process of forma- 
tion ; and in the strange growth and development of this 
most helpless yet most precious of all God's creations, 
there are certain elements which must be had, — phos- 
phates to harden the delicate bones; nitrogen for flesh, 
which is only developed muscle; carbon,— or sugar and 
fat, which represent carbon,— for the whole wonderful 
course of respiration and circulation. Water, too, must 
be in abundance to fill the tiny stomach, which in the 
beginning can hold but a spoonful ; and to float the blood- 
corpuscles through the winding channels whose mysteries, 
even now, no man has fully penetrated. Caseine, which 
is the solid, nourishing, cheesy part of milk, and abounds 
in nitrogen, is also needed ; and all the salts and alkalies 
that we have found to be necessary in forming perfect 
blood. Let us see if milk will meet these wants, 

COMPOSITION OF COW'S MILK. 
(Supposed to contain IfiOO parts,) 

Water 870.2 

Caseine ^^-8 

Butter 31-3 

Sugar 47.7 

Carried forward 994.0 

6 



82. THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. 

Brought forward 994.0 

Soda 

Chloride of sodium and potassium 

Phosphate of soda and potassa 

Phosphate of lime J- . . . 6.0 

Magnesia 

Iron 

Alkaline carbonates 



1,000.0 



Mother's milk being nearly the same, having only a 
larger proportion of water, will for the first ^^ear of our 
baby's life meet every demand the system can make. Even 
the first teeth are no sign, as ignorant mothers believe, 
that the stomach calls for stronger food. They are known, 
with reason, as milk-teeth, and the grinders delay their 
appearance for months afterward. A little oatmeal, bread 
and milk, and various porridges, come in here, that the 
bones may harden more rapidl}^ ; but that is all. The 
baby is in constant motion ; and eyes and ears are taking 
in the mysteries of the new life, and busy hands testing 
properties, and little feet walking into mischief, all day. 
This is hardly the place to dwell upon the amount of 
knowledge acquired from birth to five years of age ; yet 
when 3'ou consider how the mind is reaching in every 
direction, appropriating, investigating, drawing conclu- 
sions which are the foundation of all our after-knowledge, 
you will see that the brain is working with an intensity 
never afterwards equaled ; and, as brain- work means ac- 
tual destruction of brain-fiber, how vital it is that food 
should be furnished in the right ratio, and made up of the 
right elements ! 

With the coming of the grinders, and the call of the 



THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH, 83 

muscles and tissues for stronger food, begins tLie necessit}^ 
for a more varied dietary. Our baby now, from two and 
a half to seven years of age, will require daily : — 

Bread, not less than 12 ounces. 

Butter 1 ounce. 

Milk J pint. 

Meat . . . ^ 2 ounces. 

Vegetables 6 ounces. 

Pudding or gruel 6 ounces. 

This table is made from the dietaries of various chil- 
dren's hospitals, where long experiment has settled the 
quantities and qualities necessary to health, or, as in these 
cases, recovery from sickness, at which time the appetite 
is always keener. 

In many cases physicians who have studied the laws 
of food, and kept pace with modern experiments in 
dietetics, strike out meat altogether till the child is 
seven or eight years old, and allow it but once daily 
after this time, and in verj' limited amount. Sir Henry 
Thompson, one of the most distinguished of English 
phj^sicians, and a man noted for his popularity as diner 
out and giver of dinners, writes strenuously against the 
prevailing excessive use of meat, and especially protests 
against its over use for children ; and his opinion is shared 
by most thoughtful medical men. The nitrogenous vege- 
tables advantageously take its place ; and cheese, as 
prepared after the formulas given in Mattieu Williams's 
'* Chemistry of Cookery," is a food the value of which 
we are but just beginning to appreciate. 

As to quantity, with the healthy child, playing at will, 
there need be very little restraint. Few children will eat 
too much of perfectly simple food, such as this table 



84 THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH, 

includes. Let cake or pastry or sweetmeats enter in, 
and of course, as long as the thing tastes good, the 
child will beg for more. English children are con- 
fined to this simple diet ; and though of coui'se a less 
exacting climate has much to do with the greater health- 
fulness of the English than the American people, the 
plain but hearty and regular diet of childhood has far 
more. 

Our young American of seven, at a hotel breakfast, 
would call for coffee and ham and eggs and sausages and 
hot cakes. His English cousin would have no liberty to 
call for anything. In fact, it is very doubtful if he would 
be brought to table at all ; and if there, bread and milk 
or oatmeal and milk would form his meal. 

By this time I do not doubt our baby has your heartiest 
pity, and you are saying, '' What ! no snacks ? no cooky 
nor cake nor candy? no running to aunt or grandmother 
or tender-hearted cook for goodies? If that must be so, 
half the pleasure of childhood is losf 

Perhaps ; but suppose that w^ith that pleasure some 
other things are also lost. Suppose our baby to have 
begun life with a nervous, irritable, sensitive organization, 
keenly alive to pain, and this hard regimen to have cov- 
ered these nerves with firm flesh, and filled the veins with 
clean, healthy blood. Suppose headache is unknown, and 
loss of appetite, and a bad taste in the mouth, and all the 
evils we know so well ; and that work and play are easy, 
and food of the simplest eaten w^ith solid satisfaction. 
The child would choose the pleasant taste, and let health 
go, naturally ; for a child has small reason, and life must 
be ordered for it. But if the mother or father has no 
sense or understanding of the laws of food, it is useless to 



THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. 85 

hope for the wholesome results that under the diet of our 
baby are sure to follow. 

B}^ seven some going to school has begun ; and from 
this time on the diet, while of the same general character, 
may vary more from day to day. Habits of life are fixed 
during this time ; and even if parents dislike certain arti- 
cles of food themselves, it is well to give no sign, but as 
far as possible, accustom the child to eat any wholesome 
food. We are a wandering people, and sooner or later are 
very likely to have circumnavigated the globe, at least in 
part. Our baby must have no antipathies, but every good 
thing given by Nature shall at least be tolerated. " I never 
eat this," or ''I never eat that," is a formula that no 
educated person has a right to use save when some food 
actually hurtful or to w^hich he has a natural repulsion is 
presented to him. Certain articles of diet are often 
strangely and unaccountably harmful to some. Oysters 
are an almost deadly poison to certain constitutions ; 
milk to others. Cheese has produced the same effect, 
and even strawberries ; yet all these are luxuries to the 
ordinary stomach. 

Usually the thing to guard against most carefully is 
gluttony, so far as boj's are concerned. With girls the 
tendency often is to eat far too little. A false delicacy, 
a feeling that paleness and fragility are beautiful and 
feminine, inclines the 3^oung girl often to eat less than she 
desires ; and the stomach accustoms itself to the insuffi- 
cient supply, till the reception of a reasonable meal is an 
impossibility. Or if they eat improper food (hot breads 
and much fat and sweets), the same result follows. 
Digestion, or rather assimilation, is impossible ; and 
pasty face and lusterless eyes become the rule. A greedy 



86 THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. 

woman is the exception ; and j^et all schoolgirls know the 
temptation to over-eating produced by a box of goodies 
from home, or the stronger temptation, after a school- 
term has ended, to ravage all cake-boxes and preserve- 
jars. Then comes the pill or powder, and the habit of 
going to them for a relief which if no excess had been 
committed, would have been unnecessary. Patent medi- 
cines are the natural sequence of unwholesome food, and 
both are outrages on common-sense. 

We will take it for granted, then, that our baby has 
come to boyhood and youth in blissful ignorance of their 
names or natures. But as we are not in the least certain 
what personal tastes he may have developed, or what form 
his life-work is to take, — whether professional or mercan- 
tile or artisan in one of the many trdes, — we can now 
only give the regimen best adapted for each. 

Supposing his tastes to be scholarly, and a college and 
professional career to be chosen, the time has come for 
slight changes in the system of diet, — very slight, how- 
ever. It has become a popular saying among thinkers 
upon these questions, ^' Without phosphorus, no think- 
ing ; " and like all arbitrary utterances it has done more 
harm than good. The amount of phosphorus passing 
through the system bears no relation whatever to the 
intensity of thought. ''A captive lion," to quote from 
Dr. Chambers, one of the most distinguished living au- 
thorities on diet, " a leopard, or hare, w^hich can have 
wonderfully little to think about, assimilates and parts 
with a greater quantity of phosphorus than a professor of 
chemistry working hard in his laboratory ; while a beaver, 
who always seems to be contriving something, excretes so 
little phosphorus that chemical analysis cannot detect it" 



TEE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH, 87 

Phosphatic salts are demanded, but so are other salts, 
fat, and water ; and the dietaries that order students to live 
upon fish, eggs, and oysters, because they are rich in phos- 
phorus, without which the brain starves, err just so far as 
they make this the sole reason, — the real reason being that 
these articles are all easily digested, and that the student, 
leading an inactive muscular life, does not require the 
heavy, hearty food of the laborer. 

The most perfect regimen for the intellectual Ufe is 
precisely what would be advised for the growing boy : 
frequent small supplies of easily-digested food, that the 
stomach may never be overloaded, or the brain clouded 
by the fumes of half-assimilated food. If our boy trains 
for a foot-race, rows with the college crew, or goes in for 
base-ball, his power as a brain-worker at once diminishes. 
Strong muscular action and development hinder continu- 
ous mental work ; and the literary life, as a rule, allows no 
extremes, demanding only mild exercise and temperance 
as its foundation-stones. But our boy can well afford to 
develop his muscular system so perfectly that his mild 
exercise would seem to the untrained man tolerably heavy 
work. 

The rower in a college crew requires six weeks of train- 
ing before his muscular power and endurance have reached 
their height. Every particle of superfluous fat must be 
removed, for fat is not strength, but weakness. There is 
a vast difference between the plumpness of good muscular 
development and the flabby, heavy overloading of these 
muscles with rolls of fat. The chest must be enlarged, 
that the lungs may have full play, and be capable of long- 
continued, extra draughts upon them ; and special diet 
and special exercise alone can accomplish these ends. 



8S THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. 

All fat-producing foods are struck out, sugar and all 
starchy foods coming under this head, as well as all 
puddings, pies, cakes, and sweets in general. Our boy, 
after a short run, would breakfast on lean, under-done 
beef or mutton, dry toast, or the crust of bread, and tea 
without milk or sugar ; would dine on meat and a little 
bread and claret, and sup on more meat and toast, with 
cresses or some acid fruit, having rowed twice over the 
course in the afternoon, steadily increasing the speed, and 
following it by a bath and rub. At least nine hours sleep 
must be had ; and with this diet, at the end of the train- 
ing-time the muscles are hard and firm, the skin wonder- 
fully pure and clear, and the capacity for long, steady 
breathing under exertion, almost unlimited. No better 
laws for the reduction of excessive fat can be laid down 
for any one. 

Under such a course, severe mental exertion is impos- 
sible ; and the return to it requires to be gradual. But 
light exercise with dumb-bells, &c., fresh air, walking, 
and good food are the conditions of all sound mental 
work, whether done by man or woman. 

For the clerk or bookkeeper closely confined to desk or 
counter, much the same regimen is needed, with brisk 
exercise at the beginning and end of the day, — at least 
alwa3's walking rather than riding to and from the office 
or store ; while in all the trades where hard labor is neces- 
sary, heartier food must be the rule. And for all profes- 
sions or trades, the summing-up is the same : suitable 
food, fresh air, sunlight, and perfect cleanliness, — the 
following of these laws insuring the perfect use of every 
power to the very end. 

As old age advances, the food-demand lessens naturally. 



THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. 89 

Nourishing food is still necessary, but taken in much 
smaller quantities and more often, in order that the 
waning powers of the stomach may not be overtaxed. 
Living on such principles, work can go on till the time 
for work is over, and the long sleep comes as quietly as 
to a tired child. Simple common-sense and self-control 
will free one once for all from the fear, too often hanging 
over middle life, of a paralytic and helpless invaUdism, 
or the long train of apoplectic symptoms often the portion 
even of middle life. 

I omit detail as to the character and effects of tea, 
coffee, alcohol, &c., such details coming in the chapters 
on the chemistry of food. 



90 THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 



CHAPTER X. 
THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL POOD. 

ANIMAL food has a wider range than is usually 
included under that head. The vegetarian who 
announces that no animal food is allowed upon his table 
offers a meal in which one finds milk, eggs, butter, and 
cheese, — all forms of animal food, and all strongly 
nourishing. A genuine vegetarian, if consistent, would 
be forced to reject all of these ; and it has already been 
attempted in several large water-cures by enthusiasts who 
have laid aside their common-sense, and resigned with it 
some of the most essential forces for life and work. 
Meat may often be entirely renounced, or eaten only at 
rare intervals, with great advantage to health and work- 
ing power, but the dietary for the varied nourishment 
which seems demanded must include butter, cheese, eggs, 
and milk. 

Meats will be regarded as essential by the majority, 
and naturally they come first in considering food ; and 
beef is taken as the standard, being identical in composi- 
tion with the structures of the human bod}^ 

Beef, if properly fed, is in perfection at seven 3'ears old. 
It should then be a hght red on the cut surface, a darker 
red near the bone, and slightly marbled with fat. Beef 
contains, in a hundred parts, nearly twenty of nitrogen. 



THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 91 

seventy-two of water, four of fat, and the remainder in 
salts of various descriptions. The poorer the quality of 
the beef, the more it will waste in cooking ; and its appear- 
ance before cooking is also very different from that of the 
first quality, which, though looking moist, leaves no stain 
upon the hand. In poor beef, the watery part seems to 
separate from the rest, which lies in a pool of serous bloody 
fluid. The gravy from such beef is pale and poor in flavor ; 
while the fat, which in healthy beef is firm and of a delicate 
yellow, in the inferior quality is dark yellow and of rank 
smell and taste. Beef is firmer in texture and more satis- 
fying to the stomach than any other form of meat, and is 
usually considered more strengthening. 

Mutton is a trifle more digestible, however. A healthy 
person would not notice this, the digestive power in health 
being more than is necessary for the ordinary meal ; but 
the dyspeptic will soon find that mutton gives his stomach 
less work. Its composition is very nearly the same as that 
of beef; and both when cooked, either by roasting or 
boiling, lose about a third of their substance, and come 
to us with twenty-seven parts of nitrogen, fifteen of fat, 
fift3'-four of water, and three of salty matters. 

Mountain sheep and cattle have the finest-flavored meat, 
and are also richest in nitrogenous matter. The mountain 
mutton of Virginia and North Carolina is as famous as 
the English Southdown ; but proper feeding anywhere will 
make a new thing of the ordinary beef and mutton. 
When our cattle are treated with decent humanity, — not 
driven days with scant food and water, and then packed 
into cars with no food and no water, and driven at last to 
slaughter feverish and gasping in anguish that we have no 
right to permit for one moment; — we may expect tender, 



92 THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 

wholesome, well-flavored meat. It is astonishing that 
under present conditions it can be as good as it is. 

In well-fed animals, the fat forms about a third of the 
weight, the largest part being in the loin. In mutton, one- 
half is fat ; in pork, three-quarters ; while poultry and 
game have very little. 

The amount of bone varies very greatly. The loin 
and upper part of the leg have least ; nearly half the 
entire weight being in the shin, and a tenth in the carcass. 
In the best mutton and pork, the bones are smaller, and 
fat much greater in proportion to size. 

Veal and lamb, like all young meats, are much less 
digestible than beef or mutton. Both should have very 
white, clear fat; and if that about the kidneys is red or 
discolored, the meat should be rejected. Veal has but 
sixteen parts of nitrogenous matter to sixty-three of 
water, and the bones contain much more gelatine than is 
found in older animals. But in all bones much useful 
carbon and nitrogen is found ; three pounds of bone yield- 
ing as much carbon, and six pounds as much nitrogen, as 
one pound of meat. Carefully boiled, this nutriment can 
all be extracted, and flavored with vegetables, form the 
basis of an endless variety of soups. 

Pork is of all meats the most difficult to digest, con^ 
taining as it does so large a proportion of fat. In o 
hundred parts of the meat, only nine of nitrogen are found, 
fat being forty-eight and water thirty-nine, with but two 
of salty matters. Bacon properly cured is much more 
digestible than pork, the smoke giving it certain quahties 
not existing in uncured pork. No food has yet been 
found which can take its place for army and navy use or 
in pioneering. Beef when salted or smoked loses much of 



THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 93 

its virtue, and eight ounces of fat pork will give nearly 
tliree times as much carbon or heat-food as the same 
amount of beef ; but its use is chiefly for the laborer, and 
it should have onl}^ occasional place in the dietary of 
sedentary persons. 

The pig is liable to many most unpleasant diseases, 
measles and trichina spiralis being the most fatal to the 
eaters of meat thus affected ; but the last — a small ani- 
malcule of deadly effect if taken alive into the human 
stomach, as is done In eating raw ham or sausage — 
becomes harmless if the same meat is long and thoroughly 
boiled. Never be tempted into eating raw ham or sau- 
sage ; and in using pork in any form, try to have some 
knowledge of the pig. A clean^ well-fed pig in~a well- 
kept stye is a wonderfully different object from the 
hideous beast grunting its way in many a Southern or 
Western town, feeding on offal and sewage, and rolling 
in filth. Such meat is unfit for human consumption, and 
the eating of it insures disease. 

We come now to another form of meat, that of edible 
Entrails. This includes Tripe, Haslet^ or lights, &c. 
More nitrogen is found here than in anj' other portion of 
the meat. The cheap and abundant supply in this country 
has made us, as a people, reject all but the liver. In the 
country, the sweetbreads or pancreas are often thrown 
away, and tripe also. The European peasant has learned 
to utilize every scrap ; and while such use should not be 
too strongly urged, it is certain that this meat is far better 
than no meat. Fully one-third of the animals' weight 
comes under this head, — that is, feet, tail, head, and 
tongue, lungs, liver, spleen, omentum, pancreas, and 
heart, together with the intestines. The rich man is 



94 THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 

hardly likely to choose much of this food, the tongue and 
sweetbreads being the onl}^ dainty bits ; but there are 
wholesome and savory dishes to be made from every part, 
and the knowledge of their preparation may be of greatest 
value to a poorer neighbor. Both ox-tails and head make 
excellent soup. Tripe, the inner lining of the stomach, 
is, if properly prepared, not only appetizing but pleasant 
to the ej'e. Calves' feet make good jelly ; and pigs' 
feet, ears, and head are soused or made into scrapple. 
Blood-puddings are much eaten by Germans, but we are 
not likely to adopt their use. Fresh blood has, however, 
been found of wonderful effect for consumptive patients ; 
and there are certain slaughter-houses in our large cities 
where every day pale invalids are to be found waiting for 
the goblet of almost living food from the veins of the 
still warm animal. Horrible as it seems, the taste for it 
is soon acquired ; and certainly the good results warrant 
at least the effort to acquire it. 

Venison comes next in the order of meats, but is more 
like game than any ordinary butchers' meat. It is lean, 
dark in color, and savory, and if well cooked, very 
digestible. 

Poultry are of more importance to us than game, and 
the flesh, containing less nitrogen, is not so stimulating as 
beef or mutton. Old fowls are often tough and indegesti- 
ble, and have often, also, a rank flavor like a close hen- 
house, produced by the absorption into the flesh of the 
oil intended b}^ nature to lubricate the feathers. 

Game contains even less fat than poultr}', and is con- 
sidered more strengthening. The flesh of rabbits and 
hares is more like poultry or game than meat, but is too 
close in fiber to be as digestible. Pigeons and many 



THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD, 95 

other birds come under none of the heads given. As a 
rule, flesh is tender in proportion to the smallness of the 
animal, and many varieties are eaten for the description 
of which we have no room here. 

Fish forms the only animal food for a large part of the 
world. It does not possess the satisfying or stimulating 
properties belonging to flesh, 3'et the inhabitants of fish- 
ing-towns are shown to be unusually strong and health}'. 
The flesh of some fish is white, and of others red ; the red 
holding much more oil, and being therefore less digesti- 
ble. In Salmon, the most nutritious of all fishes, there 
are, in a hundred parts, sixteen of nitrogen, six of fat, 
nearly two of saline matter, and seventy-seven of water. 
Eels contain thirteen parts of fat. Codfish^ the best- 
known of all the white fish, vary greatly, according to the 
time of year in which the\" are taken, being much more 
digestible in season than out (i.e., from October to May). 
Mackerel and Herring both abound in oil, the latter especi- 
all}', giving not onl}' relish to the Irishman's potato, but 
the carbon he needs as heat-food. Shell-fish are far less 
digestible, the Oyster being the only exception. The nitro- 
genous matter in oysters is fourteen parts, of fatty matter 
one and a half, of saline matter two, and of water eight3\ 
At the time of spawning — from May to September — they 
lose their good condition, and become unwholesome. 
Lobsters rank next in importance, and are more delicate 
and finer-flavored than Crabs. Both are, however, very 
difficult of digestion, and should onl}^ be used occasionally. 
The many forms of pickled and smoked fish are conve- 
nient, but always less wholesome than fresh. 

Milk comes next, and has alread}^ been considered in 
a previous chapter. It is sometimes found to disagree 



96 THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 

with the stomach, but usually because looked upon as 
drink and not as real food, the usual supply of which is 
taken, forgetful of the fact that a glass or two of milk 
contains as much nourishment as two-thirds of the aver- 
age meal. The nitrogenous matter in milk is known as 
caseine, and it is this which principally forms cheese. 

Cheese is commonly considered only a relish, but is in 
realit}^ one of the most condensed forms of nitrogenous 
food ; and a growing knowledge of its value has at last 
induced the Army Department to add it to the army ration 
list. Mattieu Williams, after giving the chemical formu- 
las of caseine and the other elements of cheese, writes : 
'' I have good and sufficient reasons for thus specifying the 
properties of this constituent of food. I regard it as the 
most important of all that I have to describe in connec- 
tion with my subject, — The Science of Cookery. It 
contains, as I shall presently show, more nutritious mate- 
rial than any other food that is ordinarily obtainable, 
and its cookery is singularly neglected, — practically an 
unknown art, especially in this countr3\ We commonly 
eat it raw, although in its raw state it is peculiarly indi- 
gestible, and in the onl}^ cooked form famiharly known 
among us here, that of Welsh rabbit or rare-bit, it is too 
often rendered still more indigestible, though this need 
not be the case. Cream-cheese is the richest form, but 
keeps less well than that of milk. Stilton, the finest 
English brand, is made partly of cream, partly of milk, 
and so with various other foreign brands, Gruyere, &c. 
Parmesan is delicately flavored with fine herbs, and retains 
this flavor almost unaltered by age. Our American 
cheeses now rank with the best foreign ones, and will 
grow more and more in favor as their value is understood, 



THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 07 

this being their strongly nitrogenous character. A cheese 
of twenty pounds weight contains as much food as a sheep 
weighing sixt}' pounds, as it hangs in the butcher's shop. 
In Dutch and factory cheeses, where the curd has been pre- 
cipitated by hydrochloric acid, the food value is less than 
where rennet is used ; but even in this case, it is far beyond 
meat in actual nutritive power. 

Butter is a purely carbonaceous or heat-giving food, 
being the fatty part of the milk, which rises in cream. It 
is mentioned in the very earliest history, and the craving 
for, it seems to be universal. Abroad it is eaten without 
salt ; but to keep it well, salt is a necessity, and its absence 
soon allows the development of a rank and unpleasant 
odor. In other words, butter without it becomes rancid ; 
and if any particle of whey is allowed to remain in it, the 
same effect takes place. 

Perfect butter is golden in color, waxy in consistency, 
and with a sweetness of odor quite indescribable, yet 
unmistakable to the trained judge of butter. It possesses 
the property of absorption of odors in a curious degree ; 
and if shut in a tight closet or a refrigerator with fish, 
meat, or vegetables of rank or even pronounced smell, 
exchanges its own delicate aroma for theirs, and reaches 
us bereft once for all of what is the real charm of perfect 
butter. For this reason absolute cleanliness and dainti- 
ness of vessels containing milk or cream, or used in an}' 
way in the manufacture of butter, is one of the first laws 
of the dairy. 

Ghee., the East-Indian form of butter, is simply fresh 
butter clarified by melting, and is used as a dressing for 
the meal of rice. Butter, though counted as a pure fat, 

is in realitj' made up of at least six fatty principles, there 

7 



98 THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD, 

being sixty-eight per cent of margarine and thirty per cent 
of oleine, the remainder being volatile compounds of fatty 
acids. In the best specimens of butter there is a slight 
amount of caseine, not over five per cent at most, though 
in poor there is much more. It is the onh' fat which may 
be constantly eaten without harm to the stomach, though 
if not perfect!}' good it becomes an irritant. 

The Drippings of roasted meat, more especially of beef, 
rank next in value ; and Lard comes last on the list, its 
excessive use being a serious evil. Eaten constantly, as 
in pastry or the New-England doughnut, it is not only 
indigestible, but becomes the source of forms of scrofulous 
disease. It is often a convenient substitute for butter, 
but if it must be used, would better be in connection with 
the harmless fat. 

Eggs come last ; and as a 3'oung animal is developed 
from them, it follows that they contain all that is neces- 
sary for animal life, though in the case of the chicken 
the shell also is used, all the earthy matter being absorbed. 
In a hundred parts are found fourteen of nitrogen, ten 
and a half of fatt}" matter, one and a half of saline 
matter, and seventy-four of water. Of this water the 
largest part is contained in the white, which is almost 
pure albumen, each particle of albumen being enclosed in 
very thin- walled cells ; it is the breaking of these cells 
and the admission of air that enables one to beat the 
white of egg to a stiff froth. The fat is accumulated in 
the yolk, often amounting to thirty per cent. Raw and 
lighth'-boiled eggs are easy of digestion, but hard-boiled 
ones decidedly not so. An egg loses its freshness within 
a day or so. The shell is porous ; and the always-feed- 
ing and destroying oxygen of the air quickly gains admis- 



THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. 99 

sion, causing a gradual decomposition. To preserve 
them, they must be coated with lard or gum, or packed 
in either salt or oats, points down. In this way they 
keep good a long time, and while hardly desirable to eat 
as boiled eggs, answer for many purposes in cooking. 



100 THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 



CHAPTER XI. 
THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 

WE come now to the vegetable kingdom, the princi- 
pal points that we are to consider arranging them- 
selves somewhat as follows : — 

Farinaceous seeds, 

Oleaginous seeds, 

Leguminous seeds, 

Tubers and roots. 

Herbaceous articles, 

Fruits, 

Saccharine and farinaceous preparations. 

Under the first head, that of farinaceous seeds, are in- 
cluded wheat, rye, oats, Indian corn, rice, and a variety 
of less-known grains, all possessing in greater or less 
degree the same constituents. It will be impossible to 
more than touch upon many of them ; and wheat must 
stand as the representative, being the best-known and 
most widely used of all grains. Each one is made up 
of nitrogenous compounds, gluten, albumen, caseine, and 
fibrine, gluten being the most valuable. Starch, dextrine, 
sugar, and cellulose are also found ; fatty matter, which 
gives the characteristic odor of grain ; mineral substances, 
as phosphates of lime and magnesia, salts of potash and 
soda, and silica, which we shall shortlv mention again. 



THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 101 

Hard Wheats or that grown in hot climates and on 
fertile soil, has much more nitrogen than that of colder 
countries. In hard wheat, in a hundred parts, twenty- 
two will be of nitrogen, fifty-nine starch, ten dextrine, 
&c., four cellulose, two and a half of fatt}^ matter, and 
three of mineral, thus giving many of the constituents 
found in animal food. 

This wheat is taken as bread, white or brown, biscuits, 
crackers, various preparations of the grain whether whole 
or crushed, and among the Italians as macaroni^ the most 
condensed form of cereal food. The best macaroni is 
made from the red wheat grown along the Mediterranean 
Sea, a hot summer and warm climate producing a grain, 
rich, as already mentioned, in nitrogen, and with a smaller 
proportion of water than farther north. The intense 
though short summer of our own far North-west seems to 
bring somewhat the same result, but the outer husk is 
harder. This husk was for years considered a necessity 
in all really nutritious bread ; and a generation of vege- 
tarians taking their name from Dr. Graham, and known 
as Grahamites, conceived the idea of living upon the 
wheaten flour in which husk and kernel were ground 
together. Now, to stomachs and livers brought to great 
grief by persistent pie and doughnuts and some other 
New-England wickednesses, these husks did a certain 
office of stimulation, stirring up jaded digestions, and 
reall}' seeming to arrest or modify long-standing dys- 
pepsia. But they did not know what we do, that this 
outer husk is a layer of pure silica, one of the hardest 
of known minerals. Boil it six weeks, and it comes 
out unchanged. Boil it six ^ears, or six centuries, and 
the result would be the same. You can not stew a 



102 THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 

grindstone or bring granite to porridge, and the wheat- 
husk is equall}^ obstinate. So long as enthusiasts ate 
husk and kernel ground together, little harm was done. 
But when a more progressive soul declared that in bran 
alone the true nutriment lay, and a host of would-be 
healthier people proceeded to eat bran and preach bran, 
there came a time when eating and preaching both stopped, 
from sheer want of strength to go on. The enthusiasts 
were literally starving themselves to death — for starva- 
tion is b}^ no means mere deprivation of food : on the con- 
trary, a man may eat heartily to the day of his death, and 
feel no inconvenience, so far as an}" protest of the stomach 
is concerned, yet the verdict of the wise ph3'sician would 
be, "Died of starvation." If the food was unsuitable, 
and could not be assimilated, this was incAdtable. Blood, 
muscle, nerve — each must have its fitting food ; and thus 
it is easy to see wh}' knowledge is the first condition of 
healthful living. The moral is : Never rashly experiment 
in diet till sure what you are about, and, if you can not for 
3'ourselves find out the nature of 3^our projected food, call 
upon some one who can. 

Where wheat is ground whole, it includes six and a 
half parts of heat-producers to one of flesh-formers. The 
amount of starch varies greatly. Two processes of mak- 
ing flour are now in use, — one the old, or St. Louis pro- 
cess ; the other, the " new process," giving Haxall flour. 
In the former, grindstones were used, which often reached 
so great a degree of heat as to injure the flour ; and repeat- 
ed siftings gave the A^arious grades. In the new, the outer 
husk is rejected, and a system of knives is used, which 
chop the grain to powder, and it is claimed do not heat it. 
Tlic product is more starchy, and for this reason less 



THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 103 

desirable. We eat far too much heat-producing food, and 
anj^ thing which gives us the ghiten of the grain is more 
wholesome, and thus " seconds " is really a more nutri- 
tious flour than the finer grades. Try for yourselves a 
small experiment, and 3'ou will learn the nature of flour 
better than in pages of description. 

Take a little flour ; wet it with cold water enough to 
form a dough. Place it on a sieve, and, while working it 
with one hand, pour a steady stream of water over it with 
another. Shortly 3'ou will flnd a grayish, tough, elastic 
lump before 3'ou, while in the pan below, when the water 
is carefully poured off*, will be pure wheat-starch, the 
water itself containing all the sugar, dextrine or gum, 
and mineral matter. This toughness and elasticity of 
gluten is an important quality ; for in bread-making, were 
it not for the gluten, the carbonic-acid gas formed by the 
action of jeast on dough would all escape. But, though 
it works its way out vigorously enough to swell up each 
cell, the gluten binds it fast, and enables us to have a 
panful of light " sponge," where a few hours before was 
only a third of a pan. 

Starch, as you have seen, will not dissolve in the cold 
water. Dry it, after the water is poured on, and minute 
grains remain. Look at these grains under a microscope, 
and each one is cased in a thick skin, which cold water 
can not dissolve. In boiling water, the skins crack, and 
the inside swells and becomes gummy. Long boiling is 
thus an essential for all starchy foods. 

Bread proper is simply flour, water, and salt, mixed to 
a firm dough and baked. Such bread as this, Abram 
gave to his angelic guests, and at this day the Bedouin 
Arab bakes it on his heated stone. But bread, as we un- 



104 THE CHEMISTBY OF VEGETABLE FOOD, 

derstand it, is alwaj^s lightened by the addition of yeast 
or some form of baking-powder, yeast making the most 
wholesome as well as most palatable bread. Carbonic-acid 
gas is the active agent required ; and yeast so acts upon the 
little starch-granules, which the microscope shows as form- 
ing the finest flour, that this gas is formed and evenly 
distributed through the whole dough. The process is 
slow, and in the action some of the natural sweetness of 
the flour is lost. In w^hat is known as aerated bread, 
the gas made was forced directly' into the dough, b}' means 
of a machine invented for the purpose ; and a very scien- 
tific and very good bread it is. But it demands an appara- 
tus not to be had save at great expense, and the older 
fashions give a sufficiently sweet and desirable bread. 

Hye and Indian Corn form the next best-known varie- 
ties of flour in bread-making ; but barley and oats are 
also used, and beans, pease, rice, chestnuts, in short, any 
farinaceous seed, or legume rich in starch, can fill the 
office. 

Oatmeal ma}' take rank as one of the best and most 
digestible forms of farinaceous food. Some twenty-eight 
per cent of the grain is husk, seventj-two being kernel ; 
and this kernel forms a meal containing twelve parts of 
nitrogenous matter, sixty-three of carbo-hjxlrates, five 
and a half of fatty matter, three of saline, and fifteen of 
water. So little gluten is found, that the flour of oats 
can not be made into loaves of bread ; although, mixed and 
baked as thin cakes, it forms a large part of the Scotch- 
man's food. It requires thorough cooking, and is then 
slightly laxative and very easily digested. 

Bucktvheat is ver}' rich in nitrogenous substances, and 
as we eat it, in the form of cakes with butter and sirup, 



THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 105 

so heating a food, as to be only suitable for hard workers 
in cold weather. 

Indian corn has also a very small proportion of gluten, 
and thus makes a bread which crumbles too readity. But 
it is the favorite form of bread, not only for South and 
West in our own countr}^, but in Spanish America, South- 
ern Europe, Germany, and Ireland. -It contains a larger 
amount of fatty matter than an}" other grain, this making 
it a necessity in fattening animals. In a hundred parts 
are eleven of nitrogen, sixty-five of carbo-hydrates, eight 
of fatty matter, one and a half of saline, and fourteen 
of water. The large amount of fatty matter makes it 
difficult to keep much meal on hand, as it grows rancid 
and breeds worms ; and it is best that it should be ground 
in small quantities as required. 

Bice abounds in starch. In a hundred parts are found 
seven and a half of nitrogen, eightj'-eight of starch, one 
of dextrine, eight-tenths of fatty matter, one of cellulose, 
and nine-tenths of mineral matter. Taken alone it can 
not be called a nutritive food ; but eaten with butter or 
milk and eggs, or as by the East Indians in curry, it holds 
an important place. 

We come now to Oleaginous Seeds ; nuts, the cocoa- 
nut, almonds, &c., coming under this head. While they 
are rich in oil, this very fact makes them indigestible, and 
the}^ should be eaten sparingl}'. 

Olive-oil must find mention here. No fat of either the 
animal or vegetable kingdom surpasses tliis in delicacy 
and purity. Palm-oil fills its place with the Asiatics in 
part ; but the olive has no peer in this respect, and we 
lose greatly in our general distaste for this form of food. 
The liking for it should be encouraged as decidedly as 



106 THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD, 

the liking for butter. It is less heating, more soothing to 
the tissues, and from childhood to old age its liberal use 
prevents many forms of disease, as well as equalizes di- 
gestion in general. 

Leguminous Seeds are of more importance, embracing 
as they do the whole tribe of beans, pease, and lentils. 
Twice as much nitrogen is found in beans as in wheat ; 
and they rank so near to animal food, that b}^ the addi- 
tion of a little fat they practically can take its place. 
Bacon and beans have thus been associated for centuries, 
and New England owes to Assyria the model for the pres- 
ent Boston bean-pot. In the best table-bean, either 
Lima or the butter-bean, will be found in a hundred 
parts, thirty of nitrogen, fiftj'-six of starch, one and a 
half of cellulose, two of fatty matter, three and a half 
of saline, and eight and a half of water. The propor- 
tion of nitrogen is less in pease, but about the same in 
lentils. The chestnut also comes under this head, and is 
largely eaten in Spain and Italy, either boiled, or dried 
and ground into flour. 

Tubers and Roots follow, and of these the Potato leads 
the van. Low as 3^ou may have noticed their standing 
on the food-table to be, they are the most economical and 
valuable of foods, combining as well with others, and as 
little clo3ing to the palate, as bread itself. Each pound 
of potatoes contains seven hundred and seventy grains of 
carbon, and twenty-four grains of nitrogen ; each pound 
of wheat-flour, two thousand grains of carbon, and one 
hundred and twentv of nitroo:en. But the averasre cost 
of the pound of potatoes is but one cent ; that of the 
pound of wheat, four. It is obtainable at all seasons, and 
thus invaluable as a permanent store, though best in the 



THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 107 

winter. Spring, the germinating season, diminishes its 
nutritive value. New potatoes are less nutritious than 
older ones, and in cooking, if slightly underdone, are said 
to satisfy the appetite better ; this being the reason why 
the laboring classes prefer them, as they say, " with a 
bone in them." 

In a hundred parts are found but two of nitrogen, 
eighteen of starch, three of sugar, two-tenths of fat, 
seven-tenths of saline matter, and seventj-five parts of 
water. The Sweet-potato^ Yam^ and Artichoke are all of 
the same character. Other Tubers^ the Turnip^ Beet^ Car- 
roty and Parsnip^ Sire in ordinary use. The turnip is nine- 
tenths water, but possesses some valuable qualities. The 
beet, though also largely water, has also a good deal of 
sugar, and is excellent food. Carrots and parsnips are 
much alike in composition. Carrots are generally rejected 
as food, but properly cooked are very appetizing, their 
greatest use, however, being in soups and stews. 

Herbaceous Articles follow ; and, though we are not 
accustomed to consider Cabbage as an herb, it began 
existence as cole-wort, a shrub or herb on the south coast 
of England. Cultivation has developed it into a firm 
round head ; and as a vegetable, abounding as it does in 
nitrogen, it ranks next to beans as a food. Cauliflower 
is a very delicate and highly prized form of cabbage, but 
cabbage itself can be so cooked as to strongly resemble 
it. 

Onions are next in value, being much milder and 
sweeter when grown in a warm climate, but used chiefly 
as a flavoring. Lettuce and Celery are especially valua- 
ble ; the former for salads, the latter to be eaten without 
dressino; thou2:h it is excellent cooked. Tomatoes are 



108 THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD, 

reall}^ a fruit, though eaten as a vegetable, and are of 
especial value as a cooling food. Egg-plant, cucum- 
bers, &c., all demand space; and so with edible fungi, 
mushrooms, and truffles, the latter the property of the 
epicure, and really not so desirable as that fact would 
indicate. 

Fruits are last in order ; and among these stands first 
of all the apple. While in actual anal3'sis fruits have 
less nutritive value than vegetables, their acids and salts 
give to them the power of counteracting the unhealthy 
states brought about b}^ the long use of dried or salted 
provisions. The}- are a corrective also of the many evils 
arising from profuse meat-eating, the citric acid of lemons 
and grape-fruit being an antidote to rheumatic and gouty 
difficulties. Cold storage now enables one to command 
grapes long after their actual season has ended, and they 
are invaluable food. The brain- worker is learning to 
depend more and more on fruit in all its forms ; and 
apples lead the hst, containing more solid nutriment than 
an}^ other form. While considered less digestible raw than 
baked, the}' are still one of the most attractive, life-giving 
forms of food, and if eaten daily would prove a standard 
antidote to patent medicine. The list of fruits is too 
long for mention here ; but all have their specific uses, 
and are necessary to perfect health. 

SuGAK and Honey follow in the stores of the vegetable 
kingdom. Cane-sugar and glucose, or grape-sugar, are the 
two recognized varieties, though the making of beet-sngar 
has become an industry- here as w^ell as in France. Grape- 
sugar requires to be used in five times the amount of cane, 
to secure the same desjree of sweetness. Honev also is a 
food, — a concentrated solution of sugar, mixed with 



THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. 109 

odorous, gunim}", and wax}- matters. It possesses much 
the same food value as sugar, and is easily digested. 

With the various Farinaceous Preparations, Sago, 
Tapioca^ Arrow-root^ &c., the vegetable dietary ends. 
All are light, digestible foods, principally starchy in char- 
acter, but with little nutriment unless united with milk 
or eggs. Their chief use is in the sick-room. 

Restricted as comment must be, each topic introduced 
will well reward study ; and the story of each of these 
varied ingredients in cookery, if well learned, will give 
one an unsuspected range of thought, and a new sense of 
the wealth that may be hidden in very common things. 



110 CONDIMENTS AND BEVEBAGES. 



CHAPTER XII. 

CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES. 

CONDIMENTS are simply seasoning or flavoring 
agents, and, though hardly coming under the head of 
food, yet have an important part to play. As food by 
their use is rendered more tempting, a larger amount is 
consumed, and thus a delicate or uncertain appetite is 
often aided. In some cases thej^ have the power of cor- 
recting the injurious character of some foods. 

Salt stands foremost. Vinegar, lemon-juice, and pick- 
les owe their value to acidity ; while mustard, pepper 
black and red, ginger, curry-powder, and horse-radish all 
depend chiefly upon pungency. Under the head of aro- 
matic condiments are ranged cinnamon, nutmegs, cloves, 
allspice, mint, thyme, fennel, sage, parsley, vanilla, leeks, 
onions, shallots, garlic, and others, all of them entering 
into the composition of various sauces in general use. 

Salt is the one thing indispensable. The old Dutch law 
condemned criminals to a diet of unsalted food, the effects 
being said to be those of the severest physical torture. 
Years ago an experiment tried near Paris demonstrated 
the necessity of its use. A number of cattle were fed 
without the ration of salt ; an equal number received it 
regularly. At the end of a specified time, the unsalted 
animals were found rough of coat, the hair falhng off in 



CONDIMENTS AND BEVEIIAGES. Ill 

spots, the eyes wild, and the flesh hardly half the amount 
of those naturally fed. 

A class of extreme Grahamites in this country decry 
the use of salt, as well as of any form of animal food ; and 
I may add that the expression of their thought in both 
written and spoken speech is as savorless as their diet. 

Salt exists, as we have already found, in the blood : 
the craving for it is a universal instinct, even buffaloes 
making long journeys across the plains to the salt-licks ; 
and its use not only gives character to insipid food, but 
increases the flow of the gastric juice. 

Black pepper, if used profusely as is often done in 
American cooking, becomes an irritant, and produces in- 
digestion. Red pepper, or cayenne, on the contrary, is a 
useful stimulant at times ; but, as with mustard, any over- 
use irritates the lining of the stomach. 

So with spices and sweet herbs. There should be only 
such use of them as will flavor well, delicately, and almost 
imperceptibly. No one flavor should predominate, and 
only a sense of general savoriness rule. Extracts, as of 
vanilla, lemon, bitter almond, &c., should be used with 
the greatest care, and if possible alwa3'S be added to an 
article after it cools, as the heat wastes the strength. 

BEVERAGES. 

Tea and coff*ee are the most universal drinks, after water. 
The flavor of both is due to a principle, theine in tea, 
caffeine in coffee, in which both the good and the ill eff*ects 
of these drinks are bound up. It is hardly necessary the 
principles should have different names, as they have been 
found by chemists to be identical ; the essential spirit of 
cocoa and chocolate, — theobromine^ — though not identi- 
tal, having many of the same properties. 



112 CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES. 

Tea is valuable chiefly for its warming and comforting 
qualities. Taken in moderation, it acts partly as a seda- 
tive, parti}' as a stimulant, arresting the destruction of 
tissue, and seeming to invigorate the whole nervous S3's- 
tem. The water in it, even if impure, is made whole- 
some by boiling, and the milk and sugar give a certain 
amount of real nourishment. Nervous headaches are 
often cured by it, and it has, like coflTee, been used as an 
antidote in opium-poisoning. 

Pass beyond the point of moderation, and it becomes 
an irritant, precisely' in the same wa}' that an overdose of 
morphine will, instead of putting to sleep, for just so much 
longer time prevent an}^ sleep at all. The woman who 
can not eat, and who braces her nerves with a cup of green 
tea, — the most powerful form of the herb, — is doing a 
deeper wrong than she may be able to believe. The im- 
mediate effect is delightful. Lightness, exhilaration, and 
sense of energy are all there ; but the re-action comes 
surely, and only a stronger dose next time accomplishes 
the end desired. Nervous headaches, h3'steria in its 
thousand forms, palpitations, and the long train of nervous 
sj^mptoms, own inordinate tea and coffee drinking as their 
parent. Taken in reasonable amounts, tea can not be said 
to be hurtful ; and the medium qualities, carefully pre- 
pared, often make a more wholesome tea than that of the 
highest price, the harmful properties being strongest in 
the best. If the water is soft, it should be used as soon 
as boiled, boiling causing all the gases which give flavor 
to water to escape. In hard water, boiling softens it. In 
all cases the water must be fresh, and poured boiling upon 
the proper portion of tea, — the teapot having first been 
well scalded with boiling water. Never boil any tea but 



CONDIMENTS AND BEVEBAGES. 113 

English-breakfast tea ; for all others, simple steeping gives 
the drink in perfection. 

A disregard of these rules gives one the rank, black, 
unpleasant infusion too often offered as tea ; while, if 
boiled in tin, it becomes a species of slow poison, — the 
tannic acid in the tea acting upon the metal, and produ- 
cing a chemical compound whose character it is hard 
to determine. Various other plants possess the essential 
principle of tea, and are used as such ; as in Paraguay, 
where the Brazilian holly is dried, and makes a tea very 
exhilarating in quality, but much more astringent. 

The use of Coffee dates back even farther than that of 
tea. Of the many varieties, Mocha and Java are finest in 
flavor, and a mixture of one-third Mocha with two-thirds 
Java gives the drink at its best. As in tea, there are three 
chief constituents: (1) A volatile oil, giving the aroma 
it possesses, but less in amount than that in tea. (2) 
Astringent matter, — a modification of tannin, but also 
less than in tea. (3) Caffeine, now found identical with 
theine, but varying in amount in different varieties of coffee, 
— being in some three or four per cent, in others less. 

The most valuable property of coflfee is its power of 
relieving the sensation of hunger and fatigue. To the 
soldier on active service, nothing can take its place ; and 
in our own army it became the custom often, not only to 
drink the infusion, but, if on a hard march, to eat the 
grounds also. In all cases it diminishes the waste of 
tissue. In hot weather it is too heating and stimulating, 
acting powerfull}^ upon the liver, and, by producing over- 
activity of that organ, bringing about a general disturb- 
ance. 

So many adulterations are found in ground coffee, that it 

8 



114 CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES, 

is safest for the real coffee-lover to buy the bean whole. 
Eoasting is usuall}^ more perfectly done at the grocers', in 
their rotarj^ roasters, which give ever}' grain its turn ; but, 
by care and constant stirring, it can be accomplished at 
home. Too much boiling dissipates the delicious aroma 
we all know ; and the best methods are considered to be 
those which allow no boiling, after boiling water has been 
poured upon it, but merely a standing, to infuse and 
settle. The old fashion, however, of mixing with an egg, 
and boiling a few minutes, makes a coffee hardly inferior 
in flavor. In fact, the methods are man}', but results, 
under given conditions, much the same ; and we ma}^ 
choose urn, or old-fashioned tin pot, or a French biggin, 
with the cer taint}' that good coffee, well roasted, boiling 
water, and good judgment as to time, will give always 
a delicious drink. Make a note of the fact that long 
boihng sets free tannic acid, powerful enough to literally 
tan the coats of the stomach, and bring on incurable dys- 
pepsia. Often coffee without milk can be taken, where, 
with milk, it proves harmful ; but, in all cases, moderation 
must rule. Taken too strong, palpitation of the heart, 
vertigo, and fainting are the usual consequences. 

Cocoa ^ or, literally, cacao, from the cacao-tree, comes 
in the form of a thick seed, twenty or thirty of which 
make up the contents of a gourd-like fruit, the spaces be- 
tween being filled with a somewhat acid pulp. The seeds, 
when freed from this pulp by various processes, are first 
dried in the sun, and then roasted ; and from these roasted 
seeds come various forms of cocoa. 

Cocoa-sliells are the outer husk, and by long boiling 
yield a pleasant and rather nutritious drink. Cocoa itself 
IS the nut ground to powder, and sometimes mixed with 
sugar, the husk being sometimes ground with it. 



CONDIMENTS AND BEVEEAGES 115 

In Chocolate — a preparation of cocoa — the cocoa is 
carefiili}' dried and roasted, and then ground to a smooth 
paste, the nuts being placed on a hot iron plate, and so 
keeping the oil}' matter to aid in forming a paste. Sugar 
and flavorings, as vanilla, are often added, and the whole 
pressed into cakes. The whole substance of the nut 
being used, it is exceedingly nutritious, and made more 
so by the milk and sugar added. Eaten with bread it 
forms not only a nourishing but a hearty meal ; and so 
condensed is its form, that a small cake carried in travel- 
ing, and eaten with a cracker or two, will give tempora- 
rily the effect of a full meal. 

In a hundred parts of chocolate are found forty-eight of 
fatty matter or cocoa-butter, twenty-one of nitrogenous 
matter, four of theobromine, eleven of starch, three of cel- 
lulose, three of mineral matter, and ten of water ; there 
being also traces of coloring matter, aromatic essence, and 
sugar. Twice as much nitrogenous, and twenty-five times 
as much fatt}' matter as wheaten flour, make it a valuable 
food, though the excess of fat will make it disagree with 
a very delicate stomach. 

Alcohol is last upon our list, and scientific men are 
still uncertain whether or not it can in any degree be con- 
sidered as a food ; but we have no room for the various 
arguments for and against. You all know, in part at least, 
the eflfects of intemperance ; and even the moderate dail}^ 
drinker sufl*ers from clouded mind, irritable nerves, and 
ruined digestion. 

This is not meant as an argument for total abstinence ; 
but there are cases where such abstinence is the only rule. 
In an inherited tendency to drink, there is no other safe 
road ; but to the man or woman who lives b}' law, and 



116 CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES. 

whose body is in the best condition, wine in its many 
forms is a permissible occasional luxury, and so with beer 
and cider and the wide range of domestic drinks. In old 
age its use is almost essential, but always in moderation, 
indiyidual temperament modifying eyery rule, and making 
the best knowledge an imperatiye need. A little alcohohe 
drink increases a delicate ap}>etite : a great deal diminishes 
or takes it away entirely, and also hinders and in many 
cases stops digestion altogether. In its constant oyer-use 
the membranes of the stomach are graduall}' destroyed, 
and eyery organ in the body suffers. In ales and beers 
there is not only alcohol, but much nitrogenous and sugary 
matter, yer}^ fattening in its nature. A light beer, well 
flavored with hops, is an aid to digestion, but taken in 
excess produces biliousness. The long list of alcoholic 
products it is not necessar}' ta giye, nor is it possible to 
enter into much detail regai-ding alcohol itself ; but there 
are one or two points so important that they can not be 
passed hj. 

You will recall in a preceding chapter the description of 
the circulation of the blood, and of its first passag'^e through 
yeins and arteries for cleansing, before a second round 
could make it food for the whole complex neryous s^'stem. 
Alcohol taken m excess, it has been proved in countless 
experiments by scientific men, possesses the power of 
coagulating the blood. The little corpuscles adhere in 
masses, and cannot force themselves through the smaller 
vessels, and circulation is at once hindered. This, how- 
ever, is the secondary stage. At first, as many of \o\\ 
have had occasion to notice, the face flushes, the e3'es 
grow brighter, and thought and word both come more 
freel3\ The heart beats far more rapidl}', and the speed 



CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES, 117 

increases in proportion to the amount of alcohol absorbed. 
The average number of beats of the heart, allowing for 
its slower action during sleep, is 100,000 beats per day. 
Under a small supply of alcohol this rose to 127,000, and 
in actual intoxication to 131,000. 

The flush npon the cheek is onty a token of the same 
fact within ; every organ is congested. The brain has 
been examined under such circumstances, and ^' looked as 
if injected with vermilion ... the membrane covering 
both brains resembling a delicitte web of coagulated red 
blood, so tensely were its fine vessels engorged." 

At a later stage the muscular power is paral} zed, the 
rule of mind over body suspended, and a heav3% brutal 
sleep comes, long or short according to the amount taken. 
This is the extreme of alcoholism, and death the only 
ending to it, as a habitual condition. Alcohol seems a 
necessar}^ evil ; for that its occasional beneficence can 
modif}' or neutralize the long list of woe and crime and 
brutality following in its train, is more than doubtful. 

'' Whatever good can come from alcohol, or w^hatever 
evil, is all included in that primary ph3^siological and lux- 
urious action of the agent upon the nervous supply of the 
circulation. ... If it be really a luxur}' for the heart to 
be lifted up by alcohol, for the blood to course more 
swiftly through the brain, for the thoughts to flow more 
vehemently, for words to come more fluently, for emotions 
to rise ecstatically, and for life to rush on be3^ond the pace 
set by nature ; then those who enjoy the luxury must 
enjoy it — with the consequences." 

And now, at the end of our talks together, friends, there 
is j^et another word. Much must remain unsaid in these 
narrow limits ; but the}^ are wide enough, I hope, to have 



118 CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES, 

given the key b}' which j'ou may find eas}^ entrance to the 
m3'steries we all may know, indeed must, if our lives are 
truly lived. If through intemperance, in meat or drink, 
in feeling or thought, you lessen bodil}^ or mental power, 
3'ou alone are accountable, whether ignorant or not. Onh^ 
in a never-failing self-control can safety ever be. Temper- 
ance is the foundation of high living ; and here is its defi- 
nition, by one whose own life holds it da}' by da}'- : — 

"Temperance is personal cleanliness; is modesty; is 
quietness ; is reverence for one's elders and betters ; is 
deference to one's mother and sisters ; is gentleness ; 
is courage ; is the withholding from all which leads to 
excess in daily living ; is the eating and drinking only 
of that which will insure the best body which the best 
soul is to inhabit : nay, temperance is all these, and 
more." 



Part II. 



STOCK AND SEASONING. 

The preparation called Stock is for some inscrutable 
reason a stumbling-block to average cooks, and even 
by experienced housekeepers is often looked upon as 
troublesome and expensive. Where large amounts of 
fresh meat are used in its preparation, the latter adjective 
might be appropriate ; but stock in reality is the only mode 
by which every scrap of bone or meat, whether cooked or 
uncooked, can be made to yield the last particle of nour- 
ishment contained in it. Properly prepared and strained 
into a stone jar, it will keep a week, and is as useful in 
the making of hashes and gravies as in soup itself. 

The first essential is a tightly- covered kettle, either 
tinned iron or porcelain-lined, holding not less than two 
gallons ; three being a preferable size. AYhether cooked 
or uncooked meat is used, it should be cut into small bits, 
and all bones broken or sawn into short pieces, that the 
marrow may be easily extracted. 

To every pound of meat and bone allow one quart of 
cold water, one even teaspoon of salt, and half a salt- 
spoon of pepper. Let the meat stand till the water is 
slightly colored with its juice ; then put upon the fire, and 
let it come slowly to a boil, skimming off every particle 

119 



120 STOCK AND SEASONING. 

of scum as it rises. The least neglect of this point will 
give a broth in which bits of dark slime float about, un- 
pleasant to sight and taste. A cup of cold water, thrown 
in as the kettle boils, will make the scum rise more freely. 
Let it boil steadily, but very slowly, allowing an hour to 
each pound of meat. The w^ater will boil away, leaving, 
at the end of the time specified, not more than half or 
one- third the original amount. In winter this will become 
a firm jelly, which can be used by simply melting it, thus 
obtaining a strong, clear broth ; or can be diluted with an 
equal quantity of water, and vegetables added for a vege- 
table soup. 

The meat used in stock, if boiled the full length of time 
given, has parted with all its juices, and is therefore use- 
less as food. If wanted for hashes or croquettes, the por- 
tion needed should be taken out as soon as tender, and a 
pint of the stock with it, to use as gravy. Strain, when 
done, into a stone pot or crock kept for the purpose, and, 
when cold, remove the cake of fat which will rise to the 
top. This fat, melted and strained, serves for many pur- 
poses better than lard. If the stock is to be kept several 
days, leave the fat on till ready to use it. 

Fresh and cooked meat may be used together, and all 
remains of poultry or game, and trimmings of chops and 
steaks, may be added, mutton being the only meat which 
can not as well be used in combination ; though even this, 
by trimming off all the fat, may also be added. If it is 
intended to keep the stock for some days, no vegetables 
should be added, as vegetable juices ferment very easily. 
For clear soups they must be cooked with the meat ; and 
directions will be given under that head for amounts and 
seasonings. 



STOCK AND SEASONING. 121 

The secret of a savory soup lies in many flavors, none 
of which are allowed to predominate ; and, minutely as 
rules for such flavoring may be given, only careful and 
frequent tasting will insure success. Every vegetable, 
spice, and sweet herb, curry-powders, catchups, sauces, 
dried or fresh lemon-peel, can be used ; and the simple 
stock, by the addition of these various ingredients, be- 
comes the myriad number of soups to be found in the 
pages of great cooking manuals like Gouffee's or Franca- 
teUi's. 

Brown soups are made by frying the meat or game used 
in them till thoroughly brown on all sides, and using dark 
spices or sauces in their seasoning. 

White soups are made with light meats, and often with 
the addition of milk or cream. 

Purees are merely thick soups strained carefully before 
serving, and made usually of some vegetable which 
thickens in boiling, as beans, pease, &c., though there are 
several forms of fish purees in which the foundation is 
thickened milk, to which the fish is added, and the whole 
then rubbed through a common sieve, if a regular puree- 
sieve is not to be had. 

Browned flour is often used for coloring, but does not 
thicken a soup, as, in browning it, the starchy portion has 
been destroyed ; and it will not therefore mix, but settles 
at the bottom. Burned sugar or caramel makes a better 
coloring, and also adds flavor. With clear soups grated 
cheese is often served, either Parmesan or any rich cheese 
being used. Onions give a better flavor if they are fried 
in a little butter or dripping before using, and many pro- 
fessional cooks fry all soup vegetables lightly. Cabbage 
and potatoes should be parboiled in a separate water be- 



122 SOUPS. 

fore adding to a soup. In using wine or catchup, add 
only at the last moment, as boiling dissipates the flavor. 
Unless a thick vegetable soup is desired, always strain into 
the tureen. Rice, sago, macaroni, or any cereal may be 
used as thickening ; the amounts required being found 
under the different headings. Careful skimming, long 
boiling, and as careful removing of fat, will secure a 
broth especially desirable as a food for children and the 
old, but almost equally so for any age ; while many frag- 
ments, otherwise entirely useless, discover themselves as 
savory and nutritious parts of the day's supply of food. 



SOUPS. 

Beef Soup with Vegetables. 
For this very excellent soup take two quarts of stock 
prepared beforehand, as already directed. If the stock 
is a jelly, as will usually be the case in winter, an amount 
sufficient to fill a quart-measure can be diluted with a 
pint of water, and will then be rich enough. Add to 
this one small carrot, a turnip, a small parsnip, and two 
onions, all chopped fine ; a cupful of chopped cabbage ; 
two tablespoonfuls of barley or rice ; and either six fresh 
tomatoes sliced, or a small can of sealed ones. Boil 
gently at least one hour ; then add one saltspoonful each 
of pepper, curry-powder, and clove. If the stock has 
been salted properly, no more will be needed ; but tasting 
is essential to secure just the right flavors. Boil a few 
minutes longer, and serve without straining. 



SOUPS, 123 

This is an especially savory and hearty soup, and the 
combinations of vegetables may be varied indefinitely. A 
cup of chopped celery is an exceedingly nice addition, or, 
if this is not to be had, a teaspoonful of celery salt, or a 
saltspoonful of celery-seed. A lemon may also be sliced 
thin, and added at the last. Where tomatoes are used, a 
little sugar is always an improvement ; in this case an 
even tablespoonful being sufficient. If a thicker broth is 
desired, one heaped tablespoonful of corn- starch or flour 
may be first dissolved in a little cold water ; then a cup of 
the hot broth gradually mixed with it, and the whole added 
to the soup and boiled for five minutes. 

Clear or Amber Soup. 

This soup needs careful attention. It may be madCbf 
beef alone, but, if desired very rich for a special dinner, 
requires the addition of either a chicken or a knuckle of 
veal. Allow, then, for the best soup, a soup-bone, — the 
shin of beef being most desirable, — weighing from two to 
three pounds ; a chicken ; a slice of fat ham ; two onions, 
each stuck with three cloves ; one small carrot and pars- 
nip ; one stalk of celery ; one tablespoonful of salt ; half 
a saltspoonful of pepper ; and four quarts of cold water. 

Cut all the meat from the beef bone in small pieces ; 
slice the onions ; fry the ham (or, if preferred, a thick 
slice of salt pork weighing not less than two ounces) ; 
fry the onions a bright brown in this fat ; add the pieces 
of beef, and brown them also. Now put all the materials, 
bones included, into the soup-kettle ; add the cold water, 
and let it very gradually come to a boil. Skim with the 
utmost care, and then boil slowly and steadily for not less 
than five hours, six or even seven being preferable. 



124 SOUPS. 

Strain, and set in a cold place. Next day remove the fat, 
and put the soup on the fire one hour before it will be 
wanted. Break the white and shell of an egg into a 
bowl ; add a spoonful of cold water, and beat a moment ; 
add a little of the hot soup, that the white may mix more 
thoroughly with the soup, and then pour it into the kettle. 
Let all boil slowly for ten minutes ; then strain, either 
through a jelly-bag, or through a thick cloth laid in a 
sieve or colander. Do not stir, as this would cloud the 
soup ; and, if not clear and sparkling, strain again. Re- 
turn to the fire, and heat to boiling-point, putting a lemon 
cut in thin slices, and, if liked, a glass of sherry, into the 
tureen before serving. A poached egg, or a boiled egg 
from which the shell has been peeled, is often served with 
each plate of this soup, which must be clear to deserve its 

name. 

White Soup. 

Veal or chicken must be used for this soup ; and the 
stock must always be prepared the day beforehand, having 
been flavored with two chopped onions and a cup of cut 
celery, or celery-seed and other seasoning, in the propor- 
tions already given. On the day it is to be used, heat a 
quart of milk ; stir one tablespoonful of butter to a cream ; 
add a heaping tablespoonful of flour or corn-starch, a 
saltspoonful of mace, and the same amount of white 
pepper. Stir into the boiling milk, and add to the soup. 
Let all boil a moment, and then pour into the tureen. 
Three eggs, beaten very light and stirred into the hot milk 
without boiling, make a still richer soup. The bones of 
cold roast chicken or turkey may be used in this way ; and 
the broth of any meat, if perfectly clear, can serve as 
foundation, though veal or chicken is most delicate. 



SOUPS. 125 

Mock Turtle Soup. 

A calf's head is usually taken for this soup ; but a set 
of calf's feet and a pound of lean veal answer equally 
well. In either case, boil the meat in four quarts of water 
for five hours, reducing the amount to two quarts, and 
treating as stock for clear soup. 

Remove all fat, and put on the fire next day, half an 
hour before dinner, seasoning it with a saltspoonful each 
of mace, powdered thyme, or sweet marjoram and clove. 
Melt a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a small 
saucepan; add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and stir 
both till a bright brown. Add soup till a smooth thicken- 
ing is made, and pour it into the soup-kettle. Cut about 
half a pound of the cold meat into small square pieces, — 
dice they are called, — and put into the tureen. Make 
forcemeat balls by chopping a large cup of meat very fine ; 
season with a saltspoonful each of pepper and thyme ; 
mix in the yolk of a raw egg ; make into little balls the 
size of a hickory-nut, and fiy brown in a little butter. 
Squeeze the juice of half a lemon into the tureen with (or 
without) a wine-glass of sherry. Pour in the soup, and 
serve. If egg-balls are desired, make them of the yolks 
of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed fine. Add the yolk of a 
raw egg, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a saltspoon 
of salt and half a one of pepper, and flour enough to 
make a dough which can be easily handled. Roll out ; 
cut into little dice, and make each into a ball by rolling 
between the palms of the hands. Boil five minutes in the 

soup. 

Mutton Broth. 

Prepare and boil as directed for stock. The broth 
from a boiled leg of mutton can be used, or any cheap 



126 SOUPS. 

pieces and trimmings from chops. One small turnip and 
an onion will give flavoring enough. On the day it is to 
be used, add to two quarts of broth half a cup of rice, 
and boil for half an hour. 

Chicken Broth. 
Even an old fowl which is unusable in imy other way 
makes excellent broth. Prepare as in any stock, and, 
when used, add a tablespoonful of rice to each quart of 
broth, boiling till tender. A white soup will be found the 
most savory mode of preparation, the plain broth with 
rice being best for children and invalids. 

Tomato Soup without Meat. 

Materials for this soup are : one large can , or twelve 
fresh tomatoes ; one quart of boiling water : two onions ; 
a small carrot ; half a small turnip ; two oi' three sprigs 
of parsley, or a stalk of celery, — all cut fine, and boiled 
one hour. As the water boils away, add more to it, 
so that the quantity may remain the same. Season with 
one even tablespoonful each of salt and sugar, and half 
a teaspoonful of pepper. Cream a tablespoonful of but- 
ter with two heaping ones of flour, and add hot soup till 
it will pour easily. Pour into the soup ; boil all together 
for five minutes ; then strain through a sieve, and serve 
with toasted crackers or bread. 

Hasty Tomato Soup. 

Simple but excellent. One large can of tomatoes and 

one pint of water brought to the boiling-point, and 

rubbed through a sieve. Return to the fire. Add half a 

teaspoonful of soda, and stir till it stops foaming. Sea- 



SOUPS. 127 

son with one even tablespoonful of salt, two of sugar, 
one saltspoonful of cayenne. Thicken with two heaping 
tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of butter rubbed to a 
cream, with hot soup added till it pours easily. Boil a pint 
of milk separately, and, when ready to use, pour into the 
boiling tomato, and serve at once, as standing long makes 
the milk liable to curdle. 

Oyster Soup. 
Two quarts of perfectly fresh oysters. Strain off the 
juice, and add an equal amount of water, or, if they are 
solid, add one pint of water, and then strain and boil. 
Skim carefully. Add to one quart of milk one table- 
spoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper, and, if 
thickening is liked, use same proportions as in hasty to- 
mato soup, and set to boil. When the milk boils, put in the 
oysters. The moment the edges curl a little, which will 
be when they have boiled one minute, they are done, and 
should be served at once. Longer boiling toughens and 
spoils them. This rule may be used also for stewed oys- 
ters, omitting the thickening ; or they may be put simply 
into the boiling juice, with the same proportions of butter, 
salt, and pepper, and cooked the same length of time. 

Clam Soup. 

Fifty clams (hard or soft) , boiled in a quart of water 
one hour. Take out, and chop fine. Add one quart of 
milk, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and one teaspoonful 
of salt. It will be necessary to taste, however, as some 
clams are Salter than others. Rub one tablespoonful of 
butter to a cream with two of flour, and use as thickening. 
Add the chopped clams, and boil five minutes. If the 



128 SOUPS. 

clams are disliked, simply strain through a sieve, or cut 
off the hard part and use the soft only. 

Puree, of Fish, Vegetables, etc. i 

One pound of fresh boiled salmon, or one small can of 
the sealed. 

Pick out all bone and skin, and, if the canned is used, 
pour off every drop of oil. Shred it as fine as possible. 
Boil one quart of milk, seasoning with one teaspoonful 
of salt, and one saltspoonful each of mace and white 
pepper, increasing the amount slightly if more is liked. 
Thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of butter 
rubbed to a cream, with a cup of boiling water ; add 
thickening and salmon, and boil two minutes. Strain into 
the tureen through a puree sieve, rubbing as much as pos- 
sible of the salmon through with a potato-masher, and 
serve very hot. All that will not go through can be mixed 
with an equal amount of cracker- crumbs or mashed po- 
tato, made into small cakes or rolls, and fried in a little 
butter for breakfast, or treated as croquettes, and served 
at dinner. 

This thickened milk is the foundation for many forms of 
fish and vegetable purees. A pint of green pease, boiled, 
mashed, and added ; or asparagus or spinach in the same 
proportions can be used. Lobster makes a puree as de- 
licious as that of salmon. Dry the " coral " in the oven ; 
pound it fine, and add to the milk before straining, thus 
giving a clear pink color. Cut all the meat and green fat 
into dice, and put into the tureen, pouring the hot milk 
upon it. Boiled cod or halibut can be used ; but nothing is 
so nice as the salmon, either fresh or canned. For a Puree 
of Celery boil one pint of cut celery in water till tender ; 



SOUPS. 129 

then add to boiling milk, and rub through the sieve. 
For Potato Puree use six large or ten medium sized pota- 
toes, boiled and mashed fine ; then stirred into the milk, 
and strained ; a large tablespoonful of chopped parsley 
being put in the tureen. For a Gfreen-Corn Soup use the 
milk without straining ; adding a can of corn, or the corn 
cut from six ears of fresh boiled corn, and an even table- 
spoonful of sugar, and boiling ten minutes. Salsify can 
also be used, the combinations being numberless, and 
one's own taste a safe guide in making new ones. 

Turtle-Bean Soup. 

Wash and soak over-night, in cold water, one pint 
of the black or turtle beans. In the morning put on 
the fire in three quarts of cold water, which, as it boils 
away, must be added to, to preserve the original quantity. 
Add quarter of a pound of salt pork and half a pound 
of lean beef ; one carrot and two onions cut fine ; one 
tablespoonful of salt ; one saltspoonful of cayenne. Cover 
closely, and boil four or five hours. Rub through a colan- 
der, having first put in the tureen three hard-boiled eggs 
ctit in slices, one lemon sliced thin, and half a glass of 
wine. This soup is often served with small sausages 
which have been boiled in it for ten minutes, and then 
skinned, and used either whole or cut in bits. Cold baked 
beans can also be used, in which case the meat, eggs, and 
wine are omitted. 

Pea Soup. 

One quart of dried pease, washed and soaked over- 
night ; split pease are best. In the morning put them on 
the fire with six quarts of cold water ; half a pound of 
salt pork ; one even tablespoonful of salt ; one saltspoonful 

9 



130 SOUPS. 

of cayenne ; and one teaspoonful of celery-seed. Fry till a 
bright brown three onions cut small, and add to the pease ; 
cover closely, and boil four or five hours. Strain through 
a colander, and, if not perfectly smooth, return to fire, 
and add a thickening made of one heaping teaspoonful of 
flour and an even one of butter, stirred together with a 
little hot water and boiled five minutes. Beans can be 
used in precisely the same way ; and both bean and pea 
soups are nicer served with croutons^ or a thick slice of 
bread cut in dice, and fried brown and crisp, or simply 
browned in the oven, and put into the tureen at the 
moment of serving. 

Onion Soup. 

Take three large onions, slice them very thin, and then 
fry to a bright brown in a large spoonful of either butter 
or stock-fat, the latter answering equally well. When 
brown, add half a teacupful of flour, and stir constantly 
until red. Then pour in slowly one pint of boiling water, 
stirring steadily till it is all in. Boil and mash fine four 
large potatoes, and stir into one quart of boiling milk, 
taking care that there are no lumps. Add this to the fried 
onions, with one teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful 
of white pepper. Let all boil for five minutes, and then 
serve with toasted or fried bread. Simple as this seems, 
it is one of the best of the vegetable soups, though it is 
made richer by the use of stock instead of water. 

Browned Flour for Soups. 
Put a pint of sifted flour into a perfectly clean frying- 
pan, and stir and turn constantly as it darkens, till the 
whole is an even dark brown. If scorched at all, it is 



FISH. 131 

ruined, and should not be used for any purpose. As a 
coloring for soups and gravies it is by no means as good 
as caramel or burned sugar. 

Caramel. 
Half a pound of brown sugar ; one tablespoonful of 
water. Put into a frying-pan, and stir steadily over the 
fire till it becomes a deep dark brown in color. Then add 
one cup of boiling water and one teaspoonful of salt. 
Boil a minute longer, bottle, and keep corked. One 
tablespoonful will color a clear soup, and it can be used 
for many jellies, gravies, and sauces. 



FISH. 

The most essential point in choosing fish is their fresh- 
ness^ and this is determined as follows : if the gills are 
red, the eyes prominent and full, and the whole fish stiff, 
they are good ; but if the eyes are sunken, the gills pale, 
and the fish flabby, they are stale and unwholesome, and, 
though often eaten in this condition, lack all the fine flavor 
of a freshly- caught fish. 

The fish being chosen, the greatest care is necessary in 
cleaning. If this is properly done, one washing will be 
suflScient : the custom of allowing fresh fish to lie in water 
after cleaning, destroys much of their flavor. 

Fresh-water fish, especially the cat-fish, have often a 
muddy taste and smell. To get rid of this, soak in water 
strongly salted ; say, a cupful of salt to a gallon of water, 



132 FISH. 

letting it .heat gradually in this, and boiling it for one 
minute ; then drying it thoroughly before cooking. 

All fish for boiling should be put into cold water, with 
the exception of salmon, which loses its color unless put 
into boiling water. A tablespoonful each of salt and 
vinegar to every two quarts of water improves the flavor 
of all boiled fish, and also makes the flesh firmer. Allow 
ten minutes to the pound after the fish begins to boil, and 
test with a knitting-needle or sharp skewer. If it runs in 
easily, the fish can be taken off. If a fish-kettle with 
strainer is used, the fish can be lifted out without danger 
of breaking. If not, it should be thoroughly dredged 
with flour, and served in a cloth kept for the purpose. In 
all cases drain it perfectly, and send to table on a folded 
napkin laid upon the platter. 

In frying, fish should, like all fried articles, be immersed 
in the hot lard or drippings. Small fish can be fried 
whole ; larger ones boned, and cut in small pieces. If 
they are egged and crumbed, the egg will form a covering, 
hardening at once, and absolutely impervious to fat. 

Pan-fish, as they are called, — flounders and small fish 
generally, — can also be fried by rolling in Indian meal or 
flour, and browning in the fat of salt pork. 

Baking and broiling preserve the flavor most thor- 
oughly. 

Cold boiled fish can always be used, either by spicing 
as in the rule to be given, or by warming again in a little 
butter and water. Cold fried or broiled fish can be put in 
a pan, and set in the oven till hot, this requiring not over 
ten minutes ; a longer time giving a strong, oily taste, 
which spoils it. Plain boiled or mashed potatoes are 
always served with fish where used as a dinner-course. If 



FISH. 1^3 

fish is boiled whole, do not cut off either tail or head. The 
tail can be skewered in the mouth if liked ; or a large fish 
may be boiled in the shape of the letter S by threading a 
trussing-needle, fastening a string around the head, then 
passing the needle through the middle of the body, draw- 
ing the string tight and fastening it around the tail. 

Baked Fish. 

Bass, fresh shad, blue-fish, pickerel, &c., can be cooked 
in this way : — 

See that the fish has been properly cleaned. Wash in 
salted water, and wipe dry. For stuflflng for a fish weigh- 
ing from four to six pounds, take four large crackers, or 
four ounces of bread-crumbs ; quarter of a pound of salt 
pork ; one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of 
pepper ; a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, or a teaspoon- 
ful of thyme. Chop half the pork fine, and mix with the 
crumbs and seasoning, using half a cup of hot water to 
mix them, or, if preferred, a beaten egg. Put this dress- 
ing into the body of the fish, which is then to be fastened 
together with a skewer. Cut the remainder of the pork 
in narrow strips, and lay it in gashes cut across the back 
of the fish about two inches apart. Dredge thickly with 
flour, using about two tablespoonfuls. Put a tin baking- 
sheet in the bottom of a pan, as without it the fish can not 
be easily taken up. Lay the fish on this ; pour a cup of 
boiling water into the pan, and bake in a hot oven for one 
hour, basting it very often that the skin may not crack ; 
and, at the end of half an hour, dredging again with flour, 
repeating this every ten minutes till the fish is done. If 
the water dries away, add enough to preserve the original 
quantity. When the fish is done, slide it carefully from 



134 FISH, 

the tin sheet on to a hot platter. Set the baking-pan on 
top of the stove. Mix a teaspoonful of flour with quarter 
of a cup of cold water, and stir into the boiling gravy. 
A tablespoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, or of 
Worcestershire sauce, may be added if liked. Serve 
very hot. 

Before sending a baked fish to table, take out the 
skewer. When done, it should have a handsome brown 
crust. If pork is disliked, it may be omitted altogether, 
and a tablespoonful of butter substituted in the stuffing. 
Basting should be done as often as once in ten minutes, 
else the skin will blister and crack. Where the fish is 
large, it will be better to sew the body together after stuff- 
ing, rather than to use a skewer. The string can be cut 
and removed before serving. 

If any is left, it can be warmed in the remains of the 
gravy, or, if this has been used, make a gravy of one cup 
of hot water, thickened with one teaspoonful of flour or 
corn-starch stirred smooth first in a little cold water. Add 
a tablespoonful of butter and any catchup or sauce desired. 
Take all bones from the fish ; break it up in small pieces, 
and stew not over five minutes in the gravy. Or it can 
be mixed with an equal amount of mashed potato or bread- 
crumbs, a cup of milk and an egg added, with a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and baked until 
brown — about fifteen minutes — in a hot oven. 

To BOIL Fish. 

General directions have already been given. All fish 

must boil very gently, or the outside will break before the 

inside is done. In all cases salt and a little vinegar, a 

teaspoonful each, are allowed to each quart of water. 



FISH. 135 

Where the fish has very little flavor, Dubois' receipt for 

boiling will be found exceedingly nice, and much less 

trouble than the name applied by professional cooks to 

this method — au court bouillon — would indicate. It is 

as follows : — 

Mince a carrot, an onion, and one stalk of celery, and 

fry them in a little butter. Add two or three sprigs of 

parsley, two tablespoonfuls of salt, six pepper-corns, and 

three cloves. Pour on two quarts of boiling water and 

one pint of vinegar, and boil for fifteen minutes. Skim as 

it boils, and use, when cold, for boiling the fish. Wine 

can be used instead of vinegar ; and, by straining carefully 

and keeping in a cold place, the same mixture can be used 

several times. 

To BROIL Fish. 

If the fish is large, it should be split, in order to insure 
its being cooked through ; though notches may be cut at 
equal distances, so that the heat can penetrate. Small 
fish may be broiled whole. The gridiron should be well 
greased with dripping or olive oil. If a double- wire grid- 
iron is used, there will be no trouble in turning either 
large or small fish. If a single-wire or old-fashioned iron 
one, the best way is to first loosen with a knife any part 
that sticks ; then, holding a platter over the fish with one 
hand, turn the gridiron with the other, and the fish can 
then be returned to it without breaking. 

Small fish require a hot, clear fire ; large ones, a more 
moderate one, that the outside may not be burned before 
the inside is done. Cook always with the skin-side down 
at first, and broil to a golden brown, — this requiring, for 
small fish, ten minutes ; for large ones, from ten to twenty, 
according to size. When done, pepper and salt lightly ; 



136 FISH. 

and to a two-pound fish allow a tablespoonful of butter 
spread over it. Set the fish in the oven a moment, that 
the butter may soak in, and then serve. A teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley, and half a lemon squeezed over shad or 
any fresh fish, is a very nice addition. Where butter, 
lemon, and parfeley are blended beforehand, it makes the 
sauce known as maitre dliStel sauce, which is especially 
good for broiled shad. 

In broiling steaks or cutlets of large fish, — say, salmon, 
halibut, fresh cod, &c. , — the same general directions 
apply. Where very delicate broiling is desired, the pieces 
of fish can be wrapped in buttered paper before laying 
on the gridiron ; this applying particularly to salmon. 

To FRY Fish. 

Small fish — such as trout, perch, smelts, &c. — may 
simply be rolled in Indian meal or flour, and fried either 
in the fat of salt pork, or in boiling lard or drippings. A 
nicer method, however, with fish, whether small or in 
slices, is to dip them first in flour or flne crumbs, then 
in beaten egg, — one egg, with two tablespoonf uls of cold 
water and half a teaspoonful of salt, being enough for 
two dozen smelts ; then rolling again in crumbs or meal, 
and dropping into hot lard. The egg hardens instantly, 
and not a drop of fat can penetrate the inside. Fry to a 
golden brown. Take out with a skimmer ; lay in the oven 
on a double brown paper for a moment, and then serve. 

Filets of fish are merely flounders, or any flat fish with 
few bones, boned, skinned, and cut in small pieces ; then 
egged and fried. 

To bone a fish of this sort, use a very sharp knife. 
The fish should have been scaled, but not cleaned or cut 



FISR. 137 

open. Make a cut down the back from head to tail. 
Now, holding the knife pressed close to the bone, cut 
carefully till the fish is free on one side ; then tui-n, and cut 
away the other. To skin, take half the fish at a time 
firmly in one hand ; hold the blade of the knife flat as in 
boning, and run it slowly between skin and flesh. Cut 
the fish in small diamond-shaped pieces ; egg, crumb, and 
put into shape with the knife ; and then fry. The operation 
is less troublesome than it sounds, and the result most 
satisfactory. 

The bones and trimmings remaining can either be 
stewed in a pint of water till done, adding half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a table- 
spoonful of catchup ; straining the gravy off, and thicken- 
ing with one heaping teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a 
little cold water : or they can be broiled. For broiled 
bones, mix one saltspoonful of mustard, as much cayenne 
as could be taken up on the point of a penknife, a salt- 
spoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. A 
tablespoonful of olive-oil may be added, if liked. Lay 
the bone in this, turning it till all is absorbed ; broil over 
a quick fire, and serve very hot. 

Fish may also be fried in batter (p. 182), or these pieces, 
or Jilets^ may be laid on a buttered dish ; a simple drawn 
butter or cream sauce (p. 182) poured over them ; the 
whole covered with rolled bread or cracker-crumbs, dotted 
with bits of butter, and baked half an hour. A cup of 
canned mushrooms is often added. 

To STEW Fish. 

Any fresh- water fisk is good, cooked in this way ; cat- 
fish which have been soaked in salted water, to take away 



138 FISH, 

the muddy taste, being especially nice. Cut the fish in 
small pieces. Boil two sliced onions in a cup of water. 
Pour off this water ; add another cup, and two tablespoon- 
fuls of wine, a saltspoonful of pepper, and salt to taste 
(about half a teaspoonful) . Put in the fish, and cook 
for twenty minutes. Thicken the gravy with a heaping 
teaspoonful of flour, rubbed to a cream with a teaspoonful 
of butter. If wine is not used, add a sprig of chopped 
parsley and the juice of half a lemon. 

These methods will be found sufficient for all fresh fish, 
no other special rules being necessary. Experience and 
individual taste will guide their application. If the fish 
is oily, as in the case of mackerel or herring, broiling 
will always be better than frying. If fried, let it be with 
very little fat, as thek own oil will furnish part. 

To BOIL Salt Codfish. 

The large, white cod, which cuts into firm, solid slices, 
should be used. If properly prepared, there is no need of 
the strong smell, which makes it so offensive to many, and 
which comes only in boiling. The fish is now to be had 
boned, and put up in small boxes, and this is by far the 
most desirable form. In either case, lay in tepid water 
skin-side up^ and soak all night. If the skin is down, the 
salt, instead of soaking out, settles against it, and is re- 
tained. Change the water in the morning, and soak two 
or three hours longer ; then, after scraping and cleaning 
thoroughly, put in a kettle with tepid water enough to well 
cover it, and set it where it will heat to the scalding-point, 
but not boil. Keep it at this point, but never let it boil a 
moment. Let it cook in this way an hour : two will do 
no harm. Remove every particle of bone and dark skin 



FISH. 139 

Defore serving, sending it to table in delicate pieces, none 
of which need be rejected. With egg sauce (p. 169), 
mashed or mealy boiled potatoes, and sugar-beets, this 
makes the New-England ' ' fish dinner ' ' a thing of terror 
when poorly prepared, but both savory and delicate where 
the above rule is closely followed. 

Fish-balls, and all the various modes of using salted 
cod, require this preparation beforehand. 

Salt Cod with Cream. 

Flake two pounds of cold boiled salt cod very fine. 
Boil one pint of milk. Mix butter the size of a small 
egg with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir into it. 
Add a few sprigs of parsley or half an onion minced 
very fine, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Butter a quart pudding-dish. Put in 
alternate layers of dressing and fish till nearly full. 
Cover the top with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, dot 
with bits of butter, and brown in a quick oven about 
twenty minutes. The fish may be mixed with an equal 
part of mashed potato, and baked ; and not only codfish, 
but any boiled fresh fish, can be used, in which case 
double the measure of salt given will be required. 

Spiced Fish. 

Any remains of cold fresh fish may be used. Take out 
all bones or bits of skin. Lay in a deep dish, and barely 
cover with hot vinegar in which a few cloves and allspice 
have been boiled. It is ready for use as soon as cold. 

Potted Fish. 
Fresh herring or mackerel or shad may be used. Skin 



140 FISH, 

the fish, and cut in small pieces, packing them in a small 
stone jar. Just cover with vinegar. For six pounds of 
fish allow one tablespoonful of salt, and a dozen each of 
whole allspice, cloves, and pepper-corns. Tie a thick 
paper over the top of the cover, and bake five hours. 
The vinegar dissolves the bones perfectly, and the fish is 
an excellent relish at supper. 

Fish Chowder. 

Three pounds of any sort of fresh fish may be taken ; 
but fresh cod is always best. Six large potatoes and two 
onions, with half a pound of salt pork. 

Cut the pork into dice, and fry to a light brown. Add 
the onions, and brown them also. Pour the remaining fat 
into a large saucepan, or butter it, as preferred. Put in 
a layer of potatoes, a little onion and pork, and a layer of 
the fish cut in small pieces, salting and peppering each 
layer. A tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of 
pepper will be a mild seasoning. A pinch of cayenne may 
be added, if liked. Barely cover with boiling water, and 
boil for half an hour. In the meantime boil a pint of 
milk, and, when at boiling-point, break into it three ship 
biscuit or half a dozen large crackers ; add a heaping 
tablespoonful of butter. Put the chowder in a platter, and 
pile the softened crackers on top, pouring the milk over 
all. Or the milk may be poured directly into the chowder ; 
the crackers laid in, and softened in the steam ; and the 
whole served in a tureen. Three or four tomatoes are 
sometimes added. In clam chowder the same rule would 
be followed, substituting one hundred clams for the fish, 
and using a small can of tomatoes if fresh ones were not 
in season. 



FISH. 141 

Stewed Oysters. 
The rule already given for oyster soup is an excellent 
one, omitting the thickening. A simpler one is to strain 
the juice from a quart of oysters, and add an equal 
amount of water. Bring it to boiling-point ; skim care- 
fully ; season with salt to taste, this depending on the 
saltness of the oysters, half a teaspoonful being probably 
enough. Add a saltspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful 
of butter, and a cup of milk. The milk may be omitted, 
if preferred. Add the oysters. Boil till the edges curl, 
and no longer. Serve at once, as they toughen by 
standing. 

Fried Oysters. 

Choose large oysters, and drain thoroughly in a colan- 
der. Dry in a towel. Dip first in sifted cracker-crumbs ; 
then in egg, one egg beaten with a large spoonful of 
cold water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful 
of pepper, being enough for two dozen oysters. Roll 
again in crumbs, and drop into boiling lard. If a wire 
frying-basket is used, lay them in this. Fry to a light 
brown. Lay them on brown paper a moment to drain, 
and serve at once on a hot platter. As they require 
hardly more than a minute to cook, it is better to wait till 
all are at the table before beginning to fry. Oysters are 
very good, merely fried in a little hot butter ; but the first 
method preserves their flavor best. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

One quart of oysters ; one large breakfast cup of 

cracker or bread crumbs, the crackers being nicer if 

freshly toasted and rolled hot; two large spoonfuls 

of butter; one teaspoonful of salt; half a teaspoonful 



1^2 FISH. 

of pepper ; one saltspoonful of mace. Mix the salt, 
pepper, and mace together. Butter a puddmg-dish ; heat 
the juice with the seasoning and butter, adding a teacup 
of milk or cream if it can be had, though water will an- 
swer. Put alternate layers of crumbs and oysters, filling 
the dish in this way. Pour the juice over, and bake in a 
quick oven twenty minutes. If not well browned, heat 
a shovel red-hot, and brown the top with that ; longer 
baking toughening the oysters. 

Oysters for Pie or Patties. 
One quart of oysters put on to boil in their own liquor. 
Turn them while boiling into a colander to drain. Melt 
a piece of butter the size of an egg in the saucepan, add 
a tablespoonful of sifted flour, and stir one minute. Pour 
in the oyster liquor slowly, which must be not less than a 
large cupful. Beat the yolks of two eggs thoroughly 
with a saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of ca3^enne pepper, 
and one of mace. Add to the boiling liquor, but do not 
let it boil. Put in the oysters, and either use them to 
fill a pie, the form for which is already baked, for patties 
for dinner, or serve them on thin slices of buttered toast 
for breakfast or tea. 

Spiced or Pickled Oysters. 

To a gallon of large, fine oysters, allow one pint of 
cider or white-wine vinegar ; one tablespoonful of salt ; 
one grated nutmeg ; eight blades of mace ; three dozen 
cloves, and as many whole allspice ; and a saltspoon even 
full of cayenne pepper. Strain the oyster juice, and 
bring to the boiling-point in a porcelain-lined kettle. 
Skim carefully as it boils up. Add the vinegar, and skim 



FISH. 143 

also, throwing in the spices and salt when it has boiled a 
moment. Boil all together for five minutes, and then 
pour over the oysters, adding a lemon cut in very thin 
slices. They are ready for the table next day, but will 
keep a fortnight or more in a cold place. If a sharp 
pickle is desired, use a quart instead of a pint of vinegar. 

Smothered Oysters (Maryland fashion) . 

Drain all the juice from a quart of oysters. Melt in a 

frying-pan a piece of butter the size of an egg, with as 

much cayenne pepper as can be taken up on the point 

of a penknife, and a saltspoonful of salt. Put in the 

oysters, and cover closely. They are done as soon as the 

edges ruffle. Serve on thin slices of buttered toast as a 

breakfast or supper dish. A glass of sherry is often 

added. 

Oyster or Clam Fritters. 

Chop twenty-five clams or oysters fine, and mix them 
with a batter made as follows : One pint of flour, in 
which has been sifted one heaping teaspoonful of baking- 
powder and half a teaspoonful of salt ; one large cup 
of milk, and two eggs well beaten. Stir eggs and milk 
together ; add the flour slowly ; and, last, the clams or 
oysters. Drop by spoonfuls into boiling lard. Fry to a 
golden brown, and serve at once ; or they may be fried 
like pancakes in a little hot fat. Whole clams or oysters 
may be used instead of chopped ones, and fried singly. 

To BOIL Lobsters or Crabs. 
Be sure that the lobster is alive, as, if dead, it will not 
be fit to use. Have water boiling in a large kettle, and. 
holding the lobster or crab by the back, drop it in head 



144 MEATS, 

foremost ; the reason for this being, that the animal dies 
instantly when put in in this way. An hour is required 
for a medium-sized lobster, the shell turning red when 
done. When cold, the meat can be used either plain or 
in salad, or cooked in various ways. A can-opener will 
be found very convenient in opening a lobster. 

Stewed or Curried Lobster. 
Cut the meat into small bits, and add the gi-een fat, 
and the coral which is found only in the hen-lobster. 
Melt in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and a 
heaping tablespoonful of flour. Stir smoothly together, 
adding slowly one large cup of either stock or milk, a 
saltspoonful of mace, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half 
a teaspoonful of salt. Put in the lobster, and cook for 
ten minutes. For curry, simply add one teaspoonful of 
curry-powder. This stewed lobster may also be put in 
the shell of the back, which has been cleaned and washed, 
bread or cracker crumbs sprinkled over it, and browned 
in the oven ; or it may be treated as a scallop, buttering a 
dish, and putting in alternate layers of crumbs and lob- 
ster, ending with crumbs. Crabs, though more trouble- 
some to extract from the shell, are almost equally good, 
treated in any of the ways given. 



MEATS. 



The qualities and characteristics of meats have already 
been spoken of in Part I., and it is necessary here to give 
only a few simple rules for marketing. 



MEATS. 145 

The best Beef is of a clear red color, slightly marbled 
with fat, and the fat itself of a clear white. Where the 
beef is dark red or bluish, and the fat yellow, it is too old, 
or too poorly fed, to be good. The sirloin and ribs, 
especially the sixth, seventh, and eighth, make the best 
roasting-pieces. The ribs can be removed and used for 
stock, and the beef rolled or skewered firmly, making a 
piece very easily carved, and almost as presentable the 
second day as the first. For steaks sirloin is nearly as 
good, and much more economical, than porter-house, which 
gives only a small eatable portion, the remainder being 
only fit for the stock-pot. If the beef be very young and 
tender, steaks from the round may be used ; but these are 
usually best stewed. Other pieces and modes of cooking 
are given under their respective heads. 

Mutton should be a light, clear red, and the fat very 
white and firm. It is always improved by keeping, and 
in cold weather can be hung for a month, if carefully 
watched to see that it has not become tainted. Treated 
in this way, well-fed mutton is equal to venison. If the 
fat is deep yellow, and the lean dark red, the animal is 
too old ; and no keeping will make it really good eating. 
Four years is considered the best age for prime mutton. 

Veal also must have clear white fat, and should be 
fine in grain. If the kidney is covered with firm white 
fat, it indicates health, and the meat is good ; if yellow, 
it is unwholesome, and should not be eaten. The loin 
and fillet are used in roasting, and are the choice pieces, 
the breast coming next, and the neck and ribs being good 
for stewing and fricassees. 

Pork should have fine, white fat, and the meat should 
be white and smooth. Only country-fed pork should ever 

10 



146 MEATS. 

be eaten, the pig even then being liable to diseases un- 
known to other animals, and the meat, even when carefully 
fed, being at all times less digestible than any sort. 
Bacon ^ carefully cured and smoked, is considered its most 
wholesome form. 

Poultry come last. The best Turkeys have black legs ; 
and, if young, the toes and bill are soft and pliable. The 
combs of fowls should be bright colored, and the legs 
smooth. 

Geese, if young and fine, are plump in the breast, have 
white soft fat, and yellow feet. 

Ducks are chosen by the same rule as geese, and are 
firm and thick on the breast. 

Pigeons should be fresh, the breast plump, and the feet 
elastic. Only experience can make one familiar with 
other signs ; and a good butcher can usually be trusted to 
tide one over the season of inexperience, though the 
sooner it ends the better for all parties concerned. 

Boiled Meats and Stews. 

All meats intended to be boiled and served whole at 
table must be put into boiling water, thus following an 
entirely opposite rule from those intended for soups. In 
the latter, the object being to extract all the juice, cold 
water must always be used first, and then heated with the 
meat in. In the former, all the juice is to be kept in ; 
and, by putting into boiling water, the albumen of the 
meat hardens on the surface and makes a case or coating 
for the meat, which accomplishes this end. Where some- 
thing between a soup and plain boiled meat is desired, as 
in beef bouilli, the meat is put on in cold water, which is 
brought to a boil very quickly, thus securing good gravy, 



MEATS, 147 

yet not robbing the meat of all its juices. With corned 
or salted meats, tongue, &c., cold water must be used, 
and half an hour to the pound allowed. If to be eaten 
cold, such meats should always be allowed to cool in the 
water in which they were boiled ; and this water, if not 
too salt, can be used for dried bean or pea soups. 

Beef a la Mode. 

Six or eight pounds of beef from the round, cut thick. 
Take out the bone, trim off all rough bits carefully, and 
rub the meat well with the following spicing : One tea- 
spoonful each of pepper and ground clove, quarter of a 
cup of brown sugar, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Mix 
these all together, and rub thoroughly into the beef, which 
must stand over-night. 

Next morning make a stuffing of one pint of bread or 
cracker crumbs ; one large onion chopped fine ; a table- 
spoonful of sweet marjoram or thyme ; half a teaspoonful 
each of pepper and ground clove, and a heaping teaspoon- 
ful of salt. Add a large cup of hot water, in which has 
been melted a heaping tablespoonful of butter, and stir 
into the crumbs. Beat an egg light, and mix with it. If 
there is more than needed to fill the hole, make gashes in 
the meat, and stuff with the remainder. Now bind into 
shape with a strip of cotton cloth, sewing or tying it 
firmly. Put a trivet or small iron stand into a soup-pot, 
and lay the beef upon it. Half cover it with cold water ; 
put in two onions stuck with three cloves each, a large 
tablespoonful of salt, and a half teaspoonful of pepper ; 
and stew very slowly, allowing half an hour to the pound, 
and turning the meat twice while cooking. At the end of 
this time take off the cloth, and put the meat, which must 



148 MEATS. 

remain on the trivet, in a roasting-pan. Dredge it quickly 
with flour, set into a hot oven, and brown thoroughly. 
Baste once with the gravy, and dredge again, the whole 
operation requiring about half an hour. The water in the 
pot should have been reduced to about a pint. Pour this 
into the roasting-pan after the meat is taken up, skimming 
off every particle of fat. Thicken with a heaping table- 
spoonful of browned flour, stirred smooth in a little cold 
water, and add a tablespoonful of catchup and two of 
wine, if desired, though neither is necessary. Taste, as 
a little more salt may be required. 

The thick part of a leg of veal may be treated in the 
same manner, both being good either hot or cold ; and a 
round of beef may be also used without spicing or stuffing, 
and browned in the same way, the remains being either 
warmed in the gravy or used for hashes or croquettes. 

Beef a la Mode ( Virginia fashion) . 

Use the round, as in the foregoing receipt, and remove 
the bone ; and for eight pounds allow half a pint of good 
vinegar ; one large onion minced fine ; half a teaspoonful 
each of mustard, black pepper, clove, and allspice ; and 
two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar. Cut half a pound of 
fat salt pork into lardoons, or strips, two or three inches 
long and about half an inch square. Boil the vinegar 
with the onion and seasoning, and pour over the strips of 
pork, and let them stand till cold. Then pour off the 
liquor, and thicken it with bread or cracker crumbs. Make 
incisions in the beef at regular intervals, — a carving-steel 
being very good for this pm^pose, — and push in the strips 
of pork. Fill the hole from which the bone was taken 
with the rest of the pork and the dressing, and tie the 



MEATS. 149 

beef firmly into shape. Put two tablespoonfuls of drip- 
ping or lard in a frying-pan, and brown the meat on all 
sides. This will take about half an hour. Now put the 
meat on a trivet in the kettle ; half cover with boiling 
water ; and add a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of 
pepper, an onion and a small carrot cut fine, and two or 
three sprigs of parsley. Cook very slowly, allowing half 
an hour to a pound, and make gravy by the directions 
given for it in the preceding receipt. 

Braised beef is prepared by either method given here 
for a la mode beef, but cooked in a covered iron pan, which 
comes for the purpose, and which is good also for beef a 
la mode^ or for any tough meat which requires long cook- 
ing, and is made tenderer by keeping in all the steam. 

Boiled Mutton. 

A slioidder^ or fore-quarter^ of mutton, weighing five or 
six pounds, will boil in an hour, as it is so thin. The Ze^, 
or hind-quarter^ requires twenty minutes to the pound ; 
though, if very young and tender, it will do in less. It 
can be tried with a knitting-needle to see if it is tender. 
It is made whiter and more delicate by boiling in a cloth, 
but should be served without it. Boil in well-salted water 
according to the rule already given. Boiled or mashed 
turnips are usually served with it, and either drawn butter 
or caper sauce as on p. 169. 

Lamb may be boiled in the same manner, but is better 
roasted ; and so also with veaL 

Boiled Corned Beef. 
If to be eaten hot, the round is the best piece. If cold 
and pressed, what are called ^^ plate pieces " — that is, the 



150 MEATS. 

brisket, the flank, and the thin part of the ribs — may be 
used. Wash, and put into cold water, allowing half an 
hour to a pound after it begins to boil. If to be eaten 
cold, let it stand in the water till nearly cold, as this 
makes it richer. Take out all bones from a thin piece ; 
wrap in a cloth, and put upon a large platter. Lay a tin 
sheet over it, and set on a heavy weight, — flat-irons will 
do, — and let it stand over-night. Or the meat may be 
picked apart with a knife and fork ; the fat and lean 
evenly mixed and packed into a pan, into which a smaller 
pan is set on top of the meat, and the weight in this. 
Thus marbled slices may be had. All corned beef is 
improved by pressing, and all trimmings from it can be 
used in hash or croquettes. 

Boiled Tongue. 

Smoked tongue will be found much better than either 
fresh or pickled tongues. 

Soak it over night, after washing it. Put on in cold 
water, and boil steadily four hours. Then take out ; peel 
off the skin, and return to the water to cool. Cut in length- 
wise slices, as this makes it tenderer. The root of the 
tongue may be chopped very fine, and seasoned like dev- 
iled ham (p. 265). 

Boiled Ham. 

Small hams are better in flavor and quality than large 
ones. A brush should be kept to scrub them with, as it 
is impossible to get them clean without it. Soak over- 
night in plenty of cold water. Next morning, scrape, 
and trim off all the hard black parts, scrubbing it well. 
Put on to boil in cold water. Let it heat very gradually. 



MEATS. 151 

Allow half an hour to the pound. When done, take from 
the water, skin, and return, letting it remain till cold. 
Dot with spots of black pepper, and cover the knuckle 
with a frill of white paper. It is much nicer, whether 
eaten hot or cold, if covered with bread or cracker crumbs 
and browned in the oven. The fat is useless, save for 
soap-grease. In carving, cut down in thin slices through 
the middle. The knuckle can always be deviled (p. 
265). A leg of pork which has simply been corned is 
boiled in the same way as ham, soaking over-night, and 
browning in the oven or not, as liked. 

Irish Stew. 
This may be made of either beef or mutton, though 
mutton is generally used. Reject all bones, and trim off 
all fat and gristle, reserving these for the stock-pot. Cut 
the meat in small pieces, not over an inch square, and 
cover with cold water. Skun carefully as it boils up, and 
see that the water is kept at the same level by adding as 
it boils away. For two pounds of meat allow two sliced 
onions, eight good-sized potatoes, two teaspoonfuls of 
salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, 
and cook for two hours. Thicken the gravy with one 
tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth in a little cold water, 
and serve very hot. The trimmings from a fore-quarter 
of mutton will be enough for a stew, leaving a well-shaped 
roast besides. If beef is used, add one medium-sized 
carrot cut fine, and some sprigs of parsley. Such a stew 
would be called by a French cook a ragout^ and can be 
made of any pieces of meat or poultry. 



152 MEATS. 

White Stew, or Fricassee. 

Use veal for this stew, allowing an hour to a pound of 
meat, and the same proportions of salt and pepper as in 
the preceding receipt, adding a saltspoonful of mace. 
Thicken, when done, with one heaping tablespoonful of 
flour rubbed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an 
egg, and one cup of hot milk added just at the last. A 
cauliflower nicely boiled, cut up, and stewed with it a 
moment, is very nice. 

This stew becomes a pot-pie by making a nice biscuit- 
crust, as on p. 164 ; cutting it out in rounds, and laying 
in the kettle half an hour before the stew is done. Cover 
closely, and do not turn them. Lay them, when done, 
around the edge of the platter ; pile the meat in the cen- 
tre, and pour over it the thickened gravy. Two beaten 
eggs are sometimes added, and it is then called a blan- 
quette of veal. 

Brown Stew or Fricassee. 

To make these stews the meat is cut in small pieces, 
and browned on each side in a little hot dripping ; or, if 
preferred, quarter of a pound of pork is cut in thin slices 
and fried crisp, the fat from it being used for browning. 
Cover the meat with warm water when done. If a stew, 
any vegetables liked can be added ; a fricassee never con- 
taining them, having only meat and a gravy, thickened 
with browned flour and seasoned in the proportions already 
given. Part of a can of mushrooms may be used with a 
beef stew, and a glass of wine added ; this making a 
ragout with mushrooms. The countless receipts one sees 
in large cook-books for ragouts and fricassees are merely 
variations in the flavoring of simple stews ; and, after 



MEATS. 153 

a little experimenting, any one can improvise her own, 
remembering that the strongly-flavored vegetables (as 
carrots) belong especially to dark meats, and the more 
delicate ones to light. Fresh pork is sometimes used in 
a white fricassee, in which case a little powdered sage is 
better than mace as a seasoning. 

Curries can be made by adding a heaping teaspoonful 
of curry-powder to a brown fricassee, and serving with 
boiled rice ; put the rice around the edge of the platter, 
and pour the curry in the middle. Chicken makes the 
best curry ; but veal is very good. In a genuine East- 
Indian curry, lemon-juice and grated cocoa-nut are added ; 
but it is an unwholesome combination. 

Beef Rolls. 

Two pounds of steak from the round, cut in very thin 
slices. Trim off all fat and gristle, and cut into pieces 
about four inches square. Now cut very thin as many 
slices of salt pork as you have slices of steak, making 
them a little smaller. Mix together one teaspoonful of 
salt and one of thyme or summer savory, and one salt- 
spoonful of pepper. Lay the pork on a square of steak ; 
sprinkle with the seasoning ; roll up tightly, and tie. 
When all are tied, put the bits of fat and trimmings into 
a hot frying-pan, and add a tablespoonful of drippings. 
Lay in the rolls, and brown on all sides, which will re- 
quire about ten minutes ; then put them in a saucepan. 
Add to the fat in the pan a heaping tablespoonful of 
flour, and stir till a bright brown. Pour in gradually one 
quart of boiling water, and then strain it over the beef 
rolls. Cover closely, and cook two hours, or less if the 
steak is tender, stirring now and then to prevent scorch- 



154 MEATS. 

ing. Take off the strings before serving. These rolls 
can be prepared without the pork, and are very nice ; or 
a whole beefsteak can be used, covering it with a dressing 
made as for stuffed veal, and then rolling ; tying at each 
end, browning, and stewing in the same way. This can 
be eaten cold or hot ; while the small rolls are much better 
hot. If wanted as a breakfast dish, they can be cooked 
the day beforehand, left in the gravy, and simply heated 
through next morning. 

Brunswick Stew. 

Two squirrels or small chickens ; one quart of sliced 
tomatoes ; one pint of sweet corn ; one pint of lima or 
butter beans ; one quart of sliced potatoes ; two onions ; 
half a pound of fat salt pork. 

Cut the pork in slices, and fry brown ; cut the squirrels 
or chickens in pieces, and brown a little, adding the onion 
cut fine. Now put all the materials in a soup-pot ; cover 
with two quarts of boiling water, and season with one 
tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half a teaspoon- 
ful of cayenne pepper. Stew slowly for four hours. 
Just before serving, cream a large spoonful of butter 
with a heaping tablespoonful of flour ; thin with the broth, 
and pour in, letting all cook five minutes longer. To be 
eaten in soup-plates. 

Roasted Meats. 

Our roasted meats are really baked meats ; but ovens 
are now so well made and ventilated, that there is little 
difference of flavor in the two processes. 

Allow ten minutes to the pound if the meat is liked 
rare, and from twelve to fifteen, if well done. It is al- 



MEATS, 155 

ways better to place the meat on a trivet or stand made to 
fit easily in the roasting-pan, so that it may not become 
sodden in the water used for gravy. Put into a hot oven, 
that the surface may soon sear over and hold in the juices, 
enough of which will escape for the gravy. All rough 
bits should have been trimmed off, and a joint of eight or 
ten pounds rubbed with a tablespoonful of salt. Dredge 
thickly with flour, and let it brown on the meat before 
basting it, which must be done as often as once in fifteen 
minutes. Pepper lightly. If the water in the pan dries 
away, add enough to have a pint for gravy in the end. 
Dredge with flour at least twice, as this makes a crisp and 
relishable outer crust. Take up the meat, when done, on 
a hot platter. Make the gravy in the roasting-pan, by 
setting it on top of the stove, and first scraping up all the 
browning from the corners and bottom. If there is much 
fat, pour it carefully off. If the dredging has been well 
managed while roasting, the gravy will be thick enough. 
If not, stir a teaspoonful of browned flour smooth in cold 
water, and add. Should the gravy be too light, color with 
a teaspoonful of caramel, and taste to see that the season- 
ing is right. 

Mutton requires fifteen minutes to the pound, unless 
preferred rare, in which case ten will be sufficient. If a 
tin kitchen is used, fifteen minutes for beef, and twenty 
for mutton, will be needed. 

Stuffed Leg of Mutton. 

Have the butcher take out the first joint in a leg of 
mutton ; or it can be done at home by using a very sharp, 
narrow-bladed knife, and holding it close to the bone. 
Rub in a tablespoonful of salt, and then fill with a dress- 



156 MEATS, 

ing made as follows : One pint of fine bread or cracker 
crumbs, in which have been mixed dry one even table- 
spoonful of salt and one of summer savory or thyme, and 
one teaspoonful of pepper. Chop one onion very fine, 
and add to it, with one egg well beaten. Melt a piece of 
butter the size of an egg in a cup of hot water, and pour 
on the crumbs. If not enough to thoroughly moisten 
them, add a little more. Either fasten with a skewer, or 
sew up, and roast as in previous directions. Skim all the 
fat from the gravy, as the flavor of mutton- fat is never 
pleasant. A tablespoonful of currant jelly may be put 
into the gravy-tureen, and the gravy strained upon it. 
The meat must be basted, and dredged with flour, as 
carefully as beef. Both the shoulder and saddle are 
roasted in the same way, but without stuffing ; and the 
leg may be also, though used to more advantage with 
one. 

Lamb requires less time ; a leg weighing six pounds 
needing but one hour, or an hour and a quarter if roasted 
before an open fire. 

Roast Veal. 

Veal is so dry a meat, that a moist dressing is almost 
essential. This dressing may be made as in the previous 
receipt ; or, instead of butter, quarter of a pound of salt 
pork can be chopped fine, and mixed with it. If the loin 
is used, — and this is always best, — take out the bone to 
the first joint, and fill the hole with dressing, as in the 
leg of mutton. In using the breast, bone also, reserving 
the bones for stock ; lay the dressing on it ; roll, and tie 
securely. Baste often. Three or four thin slices of salt 
pork may be laid on the top ; or, if this is not liked, melt 



MEATS, 157 

a tablespoonful of butter in a cup of hot water, and baste 
with that. Treat it as in directions for roasted meats, 
but allow a full half -hour to the pound, and make the 
gravy as for beef. Cold veal makes so many nice dishes, 
that a large piece can always be used satisfactorily. 

Roast Pork. 

Bone the leg as in mutton, and stuff ; substituting sage 
for the sweet marjoram, and using two onions instead of 
one. Allow half an hour to the pound, and make gravy 
as for roast beef. Spare-ribs are considered most deli- 
cate ; and both are best eaten cold, the hot pork being 
rather gross, and, whether hot or cold, less digestible 
than any other meat. 

Roast Venison. 

In winter venison can be kept a month ; and, in all 
cases, it should hang in a cold place at least a month 
before using. Allow half an hour to a pound in roasting, 
and baste very often. Small squares of salt pork are 
sometimes inserted in incisions made here and there, and 
help to enrich the gravy. In roasting a haunch it is 
usually covered with a thick paste of flour and water, and 
a paper tied over this, not less than four hours being 
required to roast it. At the end of three, remove the 
paper and paste, dredge and baste till well browned. The 
last basting is with a glass of claret ; and this, and half a 
small glass of currant jelly are added to the gravy. Veni- 
son steaks are treated as in directions for broiled meats. 

Baked Pork and Beans. 
Pick over one quart of dried beans, what is known as 



158 MEATS. 

i 
"navy beans" being the best, and soak over-night in 

plenty of cold water. 

Turn off the water in the morning, and put on to boil in 
cold water till tender, — at least one hour. An earthen 
pot is always best for this, as a shallow dish does not 
allow enough water to keep them from drying. Drain off 
the water. Put the beans in the pot. Take half a pound 
of salt pork, fat and lean together being best. Score the 
skin in small squares with a knife, and bury it, all but the 
surface of this rind, in the beans. Cover them completely 
with boiling water. Stir in one tablespoonful of salt, 
and two of good molasses. Cover, and bake slowly, — 
not less than five hours, — renewing the water if it bakes 
away. Take off the cover an hour before they are done, 
that the pork may brown a little. If pork is disliked, use 
a large spoonful of butter instead. Cold baked beans can 
be warmed in a frying-pan with a little water, and are 
even better than at first, or they can be used in a soup as 
in directions given. A teaspoonful of made mustard is 
sometimes stirred in, and gives an excellent flavor to a 
pot of baked beans. Double the quality if the family is 
large, as they keep perfectly well in winter, the only season 
at which so hearty a dish is required, save for laborers. 

Broiled and Fried Meats. 
If the steak is tender, never pound or chop it. If 
there is much fat, trim it off, or it will drop on the coals 
and smoke. If tough, as in the country is very likely to 
be the case, pounding becomes necessary, but a better 
method is to use the chopping-knife ; not chopping 
through, but going lightly over the whole surface. 
Broken as it JBay seem, it closes at once on the applica- 
tion, of a qaicklieat. 



MEATS. 159 

The best broiler is by all means a light wire one, which 
can be held in the hand and turned quickly. The fire 
should be quick and hot. Place the steak in the centre of 
the broiler, and hold it close to the coals an instant on each 
side, letting both sear over before broiling really begins. 

Where a steak has been cut three-quarters of an inch 
thick, ten minutes will be sufficient to cook it rare, and 
fifteen will make it well done. Turn almost constantly, 
and, when done, serve at once on a hot dish. Never salt 
broiled meats beforehand, as it extracts the juices. Cut up 
a tablespoonful of butter, and let it melt on the hot dish, 
turning the steak in it once or twice. Salt and pepper 
lightly, and, if necessary to have it stand at all, cover with 
an earthen dish, or stand in the open oven. Chops and 
cutlets are broiled in the same way. Veal is so dry a meat 
that it is better fried. 

Where broiling for any reason cannot be conveniently 
done, the next best method is to heat a frying-pan very 
hot ; grease it with a bit of fat cut from the steak, just 
enough to prevent it from sticking. Turn almost as con- 
stantly as in broiling, and season in the same way when 
done. Venison steaks are treated in the same manner. 

Veal Cutlets. 

Fry four or five slices of salt pork till brown, or use 
drippings instead, if this fat is disliked. Let the cutlets, 
which are best cut from the leg, be made as nearly of a 
size as possible ; dip them in well-beaten egg and then in 
cracker- crumbs, and fry to a golden brown. Where the 
veal is tough, it is better to parboil it for ten or fifteen 
minutes before frying. 



160 MEATS. 

Pork Steak. 

Pork steaks or chops should be cut quite thin, and 
sprinkled with pepper and salt and a little powdered sage. 
Have the pan hot ; put in a tablespoonful of dripping, 
and fry the pork slowly for twenty minutes, turning often. 
A gravy can be made for these, and for veal cutlets also, 
by mixing a tablespoonful of flour with the fat left in the 
pan, and stirring it till a bright brown, then adding a 
large cup of boiling water, and salt to taste ; a saltspoon- 
ful being sufficient, with half the amount of pepper. 

Pigs' liver, which many consider very nice, is treated in 
precisely the same way, using a teaspoonful of powdered 
sage to two pounds of liver. 

Fried Ham or Bacon. 

Cut the ham in verj^ thin slices. Take off the rind, 
and, if the ham is old or hard, parboil it for five minutes. 
Have the pan hot, and, unless the ham is quite fat, use a 
teaspoonful of drippings. Turn the slices often, and 
cook from five to eight minutes. They can be served 
drj^ or, if gravy is liked, add a tablespoonful of flour to 
the fat, stir till smooth, and pour in slowly a large cup 
of milk or water. Salt pork can be fried in the same 
way. If eggs are to be fried with the ham, take up the 
slices, break in the eggs, and dip the boiling fat over them 
MS they fry. If there is not fat enough, add half a cup 
of lard. To make each egg round, put muffin-rings into 
the frying-pan, and break an egg into each, pouring the 
boiling fat over them from a spoon till done, which will 
be in from three to five minutes. Serve one on each slice 
of ham, and make no gravy. The fat can be strained, 
and used in frying potatoes. 



POULTRY. 161 

Fried Tripe. 

The tripe can be merely cut in squares, rolled in flour, 
salted and peppered, and fried brown in drippings, or the 
pieces may be dipped in a batter made as for clam fritters, 
or egged and crumbed like oysters, and fried. In cities 
it can be bought already prepared. In the country it 
must first be cleaned, and then boiled till tender. 

To WARM Cold Meats. 

Cold roast beef should be cut in slices, the gravy 
brought to boiling-point, and each slice dipped in just 
long enough to heat, as stewing in the gravy toughens it. 
Rare mutton is treated in the same way, but is nicer 
warmed in a chafing-dish at table, adding a tablespoonful 
of currant jelly and one of wine to the gravy. Venison 
is served in the same manner. Veal and pork can cook 
in the gravy without toughening, and so with turkey and 
chicken. Cold duck or game is very nice warmed in the 
same way as mutton, the bones in all cases being reserved 
for stock. 



POULTRY. 



To CLEAN POLT.TRY. 

First be very careful to singe off all down by holding 
over a blazing paper, or a little alcohol burning in a 
saucer. Cut off the feet and ends of the wings, and the 
neck as far as it is dark. If the fowl is killed at home, 
be sure that the head is chopped off, and never allow 
the neck to be wrung as is often done. It is not only 

11 



162 POULTRY, 

an unmerciful way of killing, but the blood has thus no 
escape, and settles about all the vital organs. The head 
should be cut off, and the body hang and bleed thoroughly 
before using. 

Pick out all the pin- feathers with the blade of a small 
knife. Turn back the skin of the neck, loosening it with 
the finger and thumb, and draw out the windpipe and crop, 
which can be done without making any cut. Now cut a 
slit in the lower part -of the fowl, the best place being 
close to the thigh. By working the fingers in slowly, 
keeping them close to the body, the whole intestines can 
be removed in a mass. Be especially careful not to break 
the gall-bag, which is near the upper part of the breast- 
bone, and attached to the liver. If this operation is care- 
fully performed, it will be by no means so disagreeable as 
it seems. A French cook simply wipes out the inside, 
considering that much flavor is lost by washing. I prefer 
to wash in one water, and dry quickly, though in the case 
of an old fowl, which often has a strong smell, it is better 
to dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in the first water, which 
should be warm, and wash again in cold, then wiping dry 
as possible. Split and wash the gizzard, reserving it for 
gravy. 

Dressing for Poultry. 

One pint of bread or cracker crumbs, into which mix 
dry one teaspoonful of pepper, one of thyme or summer 
savory, one even tablespoonful of salt, and, if in season, 
a little chopped parsley. Melt a piece of butter the size 
of an egg in one cup of boiling water, and mix with the 
crumbs, adding one or two well-beaten eggs. A slice of 
salt pork chopped fine is often substituted for the butter. 



POULTRY, 163 

For ducks two onions are chopped fine, and added to 
the above ; or a potato dressing is made, as for geese, 
using six large boiled potatoes, mashed hot, and seasoned 
with an even tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful each of 
sage and pepper, and two chopped onions. 

Game is usually roasted unstuffed ; but grouse and 
prairie-chickens may have the same dressing as chickens 
and turkeys, this being used also for boiled fowls. 

Roast Turkey. 

Prepare by cleaning, as in general directions above, and, 
when dry, rub the inside with a teaspoonful of salt. Put 
the gizzard, heart, and liver on the fire in a small sauce- 
pan, with one quart of boiling water and one teaspoonful of 
salt, and boil two hours. Put a little stuffing in the breast, 
and fold back the skin of the neck, holding it with a stitch 
or with a small skewer. Put the remainder in the body, 
and sew it up with darning-cotton. Cross and tie the legs 
down tight, and run a skewer through the wings to fasten 
them to the body. Lay it in the roasting-pan, and for 
an eight-pound turkey allow not less than three hours' 
time, a ten or twelve pound one needing four. Put a pint 
of boiling water with one teaspoonful of salt in the pan, 
and add to it as it dries away. Melt a heaping table- 
spoonful of butter in the water, and baste very often. 
The secret of a handsomely-browned turkey, lies in this 
frequent basting. Dredge over the flour two or three times, 
as in general roasting directions, and turn the turkey so 
that all sides will be reached. When done, take up on a 
hot platter. Put the baking-pan on the stove, having 
before this chopped the gizzard and heart fine, and mashed 
the liver, and put them in the gravy-tureen. Stir a table- 



164 POULTRY. 

spoonful of brown flour into the gravy in the pan, 
scraping up all the brown, and add slowly the water in 
which the giblets were boiled, which should be about a 
pint. Strain on to the chopped giblets, and taste to see 
if salt enough. The gravy for all roast poultry is made 
in this way. Serve with cranberry sauce or jelly. 

Roast or Boiled Chickens. 

Stuff and truss as with turkeys, and to a pair of chick- 
ens weighing two and a half pounds each, allow one hour 
to roast, basting often, and making a gravy as in preced- 
ing receipt. 

Boil as in rule for turkeys. 

EoAST Duck. 

After cleaning, stuff as in rule given for poultry dress- 
ing, and roast, — if game, half an hour ; if tame, one 
hour, making gravy as in dkections given, and serving 
with currant jelly. 

Roast Goose. 

No fat save its own is needed in basting a goose, 
which, if large, requires two hours to roast. Skim off as 
much fat as possible before making the gravy, as it has 
a strong taste. 

Birds. 

Small birds may simply be washed and wiped dry, tied 

firmly, and roasted twenty minutes, dredging with flour, 

basting with butter and water, and adding a little currant 

jelly or wine to the gravy. They may be served on toast. 



POULTRY, 165 

Fried Chicken. 

Cut the chicken into nice pieces for serving. Roll in 
flour, or, if preferred, in beaten egg and crumbs. Heat 
a cupful of nice dripping or lard ; add a teaspoonful of 
salt and a saltspoonful of pepper ; lay in the pieces, and 
fry brown on each side, allowing not less than twenty 
minutes for the thickest pieces and ten for the thin ones. 
Lay on a hot platter, and make a gravy by adding one 
tablespoonful of flour to the fat, stirring smooth, and 
adding slowly one cupful of boiling water or stock. Strain 
over the chicken. Milk or cream is often used instead of 
water. 

Brown Fricassee. 
Fry one or two chickens as above, using only flour to 
roll them in. Three or four slices of salt pork may be 
used, cutting them in bits, and frying brown, before put- 
ting in the chicken. When fried, lay the pieces in a 
saucepan, and cover with warm water, adding one tea- 
spoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cover 
closely, and stew one hour, or longer if the chickens are 
old. Take up the pieces, and thicken the gravy with one 
tablespoonful of flour, first stirred smooth in a little cold 
water. Or the flour may be added to the fat in the pan 
after frying, and water enough for a thin gravy, which 
can all be poured into the saucepan, though with this 
method there is more dano;er of burnino;. If not dark 
enough, color with a teaspoonful of caramel. By adding 
a chopped onion fried in the fat, and a teaspoonful of 
curry-powder, this becomes a curry, to be served with 
boiled rice. 



166 POULTRY, 

White Fricassee. 
Cut up the chicken as in brown fricassee, and stew 
without frying for an hour and a half, reducing the water 
to about one pint. Take up the chicken on a hot platter. 
Melt one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add 
a heaping tablespoonful of flour, stirring constantly till 
smooth. Pour in slowly one cup of milk, and, as it boils 
and thickens, add the chicken broth, and serve. This 
becomes a pot-pie by adding biscuit-crust as in rule for 
veal pot-pie, p. 150, and serving in the same way. 
The same crust may also be used with a brown fricassee, 
but is most customary with a white. 

Chicken Pie. 

Make a fricassee, as above directed, either brown or 
white, as best liked, and a nice pie-crust, as on p. 224, 
or a biscuit-crust if pie-crust is considered too rich. Line 
a deep baking-dish with the crust ; a good way being to 
use a plain biscuit-crust for the lining, and pie-crust for 
the lid. Lay in the cooked chicken ; fill up w^ith the 
gravy, and cover with pastry, cutting a round hole in the 
centre ; and bake about three-quarters of an hour. The 
top can be decorated with leaves made from pastry, and 
in this case wall need to have a buttered paper laid over it 
for the first twenty minutes, that they need not burn. Eat 
either cold or hot. Game pies can be made in the same 
way, and veal is a very good substitute for chicken. 
Where veal is used, a small slice of ham may be added, 
and a little less salt ; both veal and ham being cut very 
small before filling the pie. 



POULTBY, 167 

Boiled Turkey. 

Clean, stuff, and truss the fowl selected, as for a 
toasted turkey. The body is sometimes filled with oys- 
ters. To truss in the tightest and most compact way, run 
a skewer under the leg- joint between the leg and the thigh, 
then through the body and under the opposite leg- joint in 
the same way ; push the thighs up firmly close to the 
sides ; wind a string about the ends of the skewer, and tie 
it tight. Treat the wings in the same way, though in 
boiled fowls the points are sometimes drawn under the 
back, and tied there. The turkey may be boiled with or 
without cloth around it. In either case use boiling water, 
salted as for stock, and allow twenty minutes to the pound. 
It is usually served with oyster sauce, but parsley or 
capers may be used instead. 

Chicken Croquettes. 

Take all the meat from a cold roast or boiled chicken, 
and chop moderately fine. Mince an onion very small, 
and fry brown in a piece of butter the size of an egg. 
Add one small cup of stock or water ; one saltspoonful 
each of pepper and mace ; one teaspoonful of salt ; the 
juice of half a lemon ; two well-beaten eggs ; and, if 
liked, a glass of wine. Make into small rolls like corks, 
or mold in a pear shape, sticking in a clove for the stem 
when fried. Roll in sifted cracker- crumbs ; dip in an 
egg beaten with a spoonful of water, and again in 
crumbs ; put in the frying-basket, and fry in boiling lard. 
Drain on brown paper, and pile on a napkin in serving. 

A more delicate croquette is made by using simply the 
white meat, and adding a set of calf's brains which have 
been boiled in salted water. A cupful of boiled rice 



168 POULTRY. 

mashed fine is sometimes substituted for the brains. Use 
same seasoning as above, adding quarter of a saltspoonful 
of ca3'enne, omitting the wine, and using instead half a 
cup of cream or milk. Fry as directed. Yeal croquettes 
can hardly be distinguished from those of chicken. 

Philadelphia Chicken Croquettes. 

The croquette first given is dry when fried, and even 
the second form is somewhat so, many preferring them so. 
For the cream}^ delicious veal, sweetbread, or chicken 
croquette one finds in Philadelphia, the following mate- 
rials are necessary : one pint of hot cream ; two even 
tablespoonfuls of butter ; four heaping tablespoonfuls of 
sifted flour ; half a teaspoonful of salt ; half a saltspoon- 
ful of white pepper ; a dust of cayenne ; half a teaspoonful 
of celery salt ; and one teaspoonful of onion juice. Scald 
the cream in a double boiler. Melt the butter in an 
enameled or granite saucepan, and as it boils, stir in the 
flour, stirring till perfectly smooth. Add the cream very 
slowly, stirring constantly as it thickens, adding the 
seasoning at the last. An egg may also be added, but the 
croquettes are more creamy without it. To half a pound 
of chicken chopped fine, add one teaspoonful of lemon 
juice and one of minced parsley, one beaten egg and the 
pint of cream sauce. Spread on a platter to cool, and 
when cool make into shapes, either corks or like pears ; 
dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Oyster, 
sweetbread, and veal croquettes are made by the same 
form, using a pint of chopped oysters. To the sweet- 
breads a small can of mushrooms may be added cut in 
bits. 



POULTRY, 169 

Salmi of Ducks or Game. 

Cut the meat from cold roast clucks or game mto small 
bits. Break the bones and trimmings, and cover with 
stock or cold water, adding two cloves, two pepper-corns, 
and a bay-leaf or pinch of sweet herbs. Boil till reduced 
to a cupful for a pint of meat. Mince two small onions 
fine, and fty brown in two tablespoonfuls of butter ; then 
add two tablespoonfuls of flour and' stir till deep brown, 
adding to it the strained broth from the bones. Put in 
the bits of meat with one tablespoonful of lemon juice and 
one of Worcestershire sauce. Simmer for fifteen minutes, 
and at the last add, if liked, six or eight mushrooms and a 
glass of claret. Serve on slices of fried bread, and gar- 
nish with fried bread and parsley. 

Casserole of Rice and Meat. 

This can be made of any kind of meat, but is nicest of 
veal or poultry. Boil a large cup of rice till tender, and 
let it cool. Chop fine half a pound of meat, and season 
with half a teaspoonful of salt, a small grated onion, and 
a teaspoonful of minced parsle}^ and a pinch of cayenne. 
Add a teacupful of cracker crumbs and a beaten egg, and 
wet with stock or hot water enough to make it pack easih'. 
Butter a tin mould, quart size best, and line the bottom 
and sides with rice about half an inch thick. Pack in the 
meat ; cover with rice, and steam one hour. Loosen at 
edges ; turn out on hot platter, and pour tomato sauce 
around it. 

Italians Pride. 

This is a favorite dish in the writer's famil}^, having 
been sent many years ago from Italy by a friend who had 



170 POULTRY, 

learned its composition from her Italian cook. Its name 
was bestowed b}' the children of the house. One large cup 
of chopped meat ; two onions minced and fried brown in 
butter ; a pint of cold boiled macaroni or spaghetti ; a 
pint of fresh or cold stewed tomatoes ; one teaspoonful of 
salt ; half a teaspoonful of white pepper. Butter a pudding 
dish, and put first a layer of macaroni, then tomato, then 
meat and some onion and seasoning, continuing this till 
the dish is full. Cover with fine bread crumbs, dot with 
bits of butter, and bake for half an hour. Serve very 
hot. 

Deviled Ham. 

For this purpose use either the knuckle or any odds 
and ends remaining. Cut oflf all dark or hard bits, and 
see that at least a quarter of the amount is fat. Chop as 
finel}^ as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. For a 
pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows : — 

One even tablespoonful of sugar ; one even teaspoonful 
of ground mustard ; one saltspoonful of cayenne pepper ; 
one spoonful of butter ; one teacupful of boiling vinegar. 
Mix the sugar, mustard, and pepper thoroughl}', and add 
the vinegar little by little. Stir it into the chopped ham, 
and pack it in small molds, if it is to be served as a lunch 
or supper relish, turning out upon a small platter and gar- 
nishing with parsley. 

For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin ; butter lightly, 
and spread with about a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. 
The root of a boiled tongue can be prepared in the same 
wa}'. If it is to be kept some time, pack in little jars, 
and pour melted butter over the top. 



POULTRY. 171 



Boned Turkey. 



This is a delicate dish, and is usually regarded as an 
impossibility for any ordinary housekeeper ; and unless 
one is getting up a supper or other entertainment, it is 
hardly worth while to undertake it. If the legs and wings 
are left on, the boning becomes much more difficult. The 
best plan is to cut off both them and the neck, boiling all 
with the turkey, and using the meat for croquettes or 
hash. 

Draw only the crop and windpipe, as the turkey is more 
easily handled before dressing. Choose a fat hen turkey 
of some six or seven pounds weight, and cut off legs up to 
second joint, with half the wings and the neck. Now, 
with a very sharp knife, make a clean cut down the entire 
back, and holding the knife close to the body, cut away 
the flesh, first on one side and then another, making a 
clean cut around the pope's nose. Be ver}- careful, in cut- 
ting down the breastbone, not to break through the skin. 
The entire meat will now be free from the bones, save the 
pieces remaining in legs and wings. Cut out these, and 
remove all sinews. Spread the turkey skin-side down on 
the board. Cut out the breasts, and cut them up in long, 
narrow pieces, or as you like. Chop fine a pound and a 
half of veal or fresh pork, and a slice of fat ham also. 
Season with one teaspoon ful of salt, a saltspoonful each 
of mace and pepper, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, and 
the juice of lemon. Cut half a pound of cold boiled 
smoked tongue into dice. Make layers of this force-meat, 
putting half of it on the turkey and then the dice of 
tongue, with strips of the breast between, using force-meat 
for the last layer. Roll up the turkey in a tight roll, and 



172 POULTRY. 

sew the skin together. Now roll it firmh' in a napkin, 
tying at the ends and across in two places to preserve the 
shape. Cover it with boiling water, salted as for stock, 
putting in all the bones and giblets, and two onions stuck 
with three cloves each. Boil four hours. Let it cool in 
the liquor. Take up in a pan, lay a tin sheet on it, and 
press with a heavy weight. Strain the water in which it 
was boiled, and put ni a cold place. 

Next day take off the napkin, and set the turkey in the 
oven a moment to melt off any fat. It can be sliced and 
eaten in this way, but makes a handsomer dish served as 
follows : 

Remove the fat from the stock, and heat three pints of 
it to boiling-point, adding two-thirds of a package of 
gelatine which has been soaked in a little cold water. 
Strain a cupful of this into some prett}^ mold, — an ear 
of corn is a good shape, — and the remainder in two 
pans or deep plates, coloring each with caramel, — a tea- 
spoonful in one, and two in the other. La}^ the turkey on 
a small platter turned face down in a larger one, and when 
the jelly is cold and firm, put the molded form on top of 
it. Now cut part of the jelly into rounds with a pepper- 
box top or a small star-cutter, and arrange around the 
mold, chopping the rest and piling about the edge, so 
that the inner platter or stand is completely concealed. 
The outer row of jelly can have been colored red by cut- 
ting up, and boiling in the stock for it, half of a red beet. 
Sprigs of parsley or delicate celerj'-tops may be used as 
garnish, and it is a very elegant-looking as well as savory 
dish. The legs and wings can be left on and trussed out- 
side, if liked, making it as much as possible in the original 
shape ; but it is no better, and much more trouble. 



SAUCES AND SALADS. 173 



Jellied Chicken. 



Tenderness is no object here, the most ancient dweller 
in the barnyard answering equally well, and even better 
than ^' broilers.'' 

Draw carefuU}', and if the fowl is old, wash it in water 
in which a spoonful of soda has been dissolved, rinsing in 
cold. Put on in cold water, and season with a table- 
spoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of pepper. Boil 
till the meat slips easily from the bones, reducing the 
broth to about a quart. Strain, and when cold, take off 
the fat. Where any floating particles remain, they can 
always be removed by laying a piece of soft paper on the 
broth for a moment. Cut the breast in long strips, and 
the rest of the meat in small pieces. Boil two or three 
eggs hard, and when cold, cut in thin slices. Slice a 
lemon ver}^ thin. Dissolve half a package of gelatine in 
a little cold water ; heat the broth to boiling-point, and 
add a saltspoonful of mace, and if liked, a glass of 
sherry, though it is not necessary, pouring it on the 
gelatine. Choose a prett}' mold, and la}" in strips of the 
breast ; then a la3'er of egg-slices, putting them close 
against the mold. Nearly fill with chicken, laid in lightl}' ; 
then strain on the broth till it is nearly full, and set in a 
cold place. Dip for an instant in hot water before turn- 
ing out. It is nice as a supper or lunch dish, and very 
pretty in eflfect. 

SAUCES AND SALADS. 

The foundation for a large proportion of sauces is in 
what the French cook knows as a roux^ and we as '' drawn 
butter." As our drawn butter is often lumpy, or with 



174 SAUCES AND SALADS. 

the taste of the raw flour, I give the French method as a 
security against such disaster. 

To MAKE A ROUX. 

Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an egg, 
and add two even tablespoonfuls of sifted flour ; one 
ounce of butter to two of flour being a safe rule. Stir 
till smooth, and pour in slowly one pint of milk, or milk 
and water, or water alone. With milk it is called cream 
roKx, and is used for boiled fish and poultry. Where 
the butter and flour are allowed to brown, it is called a 
hrown roux^ and is thinned with the soup or stew which 
it is designed to thicken. Capers added to a white 
roux — which is the butter and flour, with water added 
— give caper sauce, for use with boiled mutton. Pickled 
nasturtiums are a good substitute for capers. Two hard- 
boiled eggs cut fine give egg sauce. Chopped parsley or 
pickle, and the variety of catchups and sauces, make an 
endless variety ; the white roux being the basis for all of 

them. 

Bread Sauce. 

For this sauce boil one point of milk, with one onion 
cut in pieces. When it has boiled five minutes, take out 
the onion, and thicken the milk with half a pint of sifted 
bread-crumbs. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in a frying- 
pan ; put in half a pint of coarser crumbs, stirring them 
till a hght brown. Flavor the sauce with half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a grate of nut- 
meg ; and serve with game, helping a spoonful of the 
sauce, and one of the browned crumbs. The boiled onion 
may be minced fine and added, and the browned crumbs 
omitted. 



SAUCES AND SALADS. 175 

Celery Sauce. 

Wash and boil a small head of celery, which has been 
cut up fine, in one pint of water, with half a teaspoonful 
of salt. Boil till tender, which will require about half an 
hour. Make a cream roux^ using half a pint of milk, 
and adding quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper. Stir 
into the celery ; boil a moment, and serve. A teaspoonful 
of celery salt can be used, if celery is out of season, 
adding it to the full rule for cream roux. Cauliflower ma}' 
be used in the same way as celerj^, cutting it very fine, 
and adding a large cupful to the sauce. Use either with 
boiled meats. 

Mint Sauce. 

Look over and strip oflT the leaves, and cut tbem as 
fine as possible with a sharp knife. Use none of the 
stalk but the tender tips. To a cupful of chopped mint 
allow an equal quantity of sugar, and half a cup of good 
vinegar. It should stand an hour before using. 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Wash one quart of cranberries in warm water, and pick 
them over carefully. Put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, 
with one pint of cold water and one pint of sugar, and 
cook without stirring for half an hour, turning then into 
molds. This is the simplest method. They can be 
strained through a sieve, and put in bowls, forming a 
marmalade, which can be cut in slices when cold ; or the 
berries can be crushed with a spoon while boiling, but 
left unstrained. 



176 SAUCES AND SALADS. 



Apple Sauce. 



Pare, core, and quarter some apples (sour being best), 
and stew till tender in just enough water to cover them. 
Rub them through a sieve, allowing a teacupful of sugar to 
a quart of strained apple, or even less, where intended to 
eat with roast pork or goose. Where intended for lunch or 
tea, do not strain, but treat as follows : Make a sirup of one 
large cupful of sugar and one of water for every dozen good- 
sized apples. Add half a lemon, cut in very thin slices. 
Put in the apple ; cover closely, and stew till tender, keep- 
ing the quarters as whole as possible. The lemon may be 

omitted. 

Plain Pudding Sauce. 

Make a white roux^ with a pint of either water or milk ; 
but water will be ver}' good. Add to it a large cup of 
sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon or any essence liked, and 
a wine-glass of wine. V^inegar can be substituted. Grate 
in a little- nutmeg, and serve hot. 

Molasses Sauce. 

This sauce is intended especially for apple dumplings 
and puddings. One pint of molasses ; one tablespoonful 
of butter; the juice of one lemon, or a large spoonful 
of vinegar. Boil twenty minutes. It may be thickened 
with a tablespoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little 
cold water, but is good in either case. 

Foaming Sauce. 

Cream half a cup of butter till very light, and add a 
heaping cup of sugar, beating both till white. Set the 
bowl in which it was beaten into a pan of boiling water, 



SAUCES AND SALADS. Ill 

and allow it to melt slowly. Just before serving but not 
before^ pour into it slowly half a cup or four spoonfuls of 
boiling water, stirring to a thick foam. Grate in nutmeg, 
or use a teaspoon ful of lemon essence, and if wine is 
liked, add a glass of sherry or a tablespoonful of brandy. 
For a pudding having a decided flavor of its own, a sauce 
without wine is preferable. 

Hard Sauce 

Beat together the same proportions of butter and sugar 
as in the preceding receipt ; add a tablespoonful of wine 
if desired ; pile lightl}' on a pretty dish ; grate nutmeg 
over the top, and set in a cold place till used. 

Fruit Sauces. 

The sirup of any nice canned fruit may be used cold 
as sauce for cold puddings and blancmanges, or heated 
and thickened for hot, allowing to a pint of juice a heap- 
ing teaspoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold 
water, and boiling it five minutes. Strawberry or rasp- 
berry sirup is especially nice. 

Plain Salad Dressing. 

Three tablespoonfuls of best olive-oil ; one tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar ; one saltspoonful each of salt and pepper 
mixed together ; and then, with three tablespoonfuls of 
best olive-oil, adding last the tablespoonful of vinegar. 
This is the simplest form of dressing. The lettuce, or 
other salad material, must be fresh and crisp, and should 

not be mixed till the moment of eating. 

12 



178 SAUCES AND SALADS. 

Spanish Tomato Sauce. 

One can of tomatoes or six large fresh ones ; two 
minced onions fried brown in a large tablespoonfiil of 
butter. Add to the tomatoes with three sprigs of parsley 
and thyme, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a one of 
pepper; three cloves and two allspice, with a small blade 
of mace and a bit of lemon peel, and two lumps of sugar. 
Stew very slowly for two hours, then rub through a sieve, 
and return to the fire. Add two tablespoon fuls of flour, 
browned with a tablespoonful of butter, and boil up once. 
It should be smooth and thick. Keep on ice, and it will 
keep a week. Excellent. 

r 

..Mayonnaise Sauce. 

For this sauce use the yolks of three raw eggs ; one 
even tablespoonful of mustard ; one of sugar ; one tea- 
spoonful of salt ; and a saltspoonful of cayenne. 

Break the egg 3'olks into a bowl ; beat a few strokes, 
and graduall}^ add the mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. 
Now take a pint bottle of best olive-oil, and stir in a few 
drops at a time. The sauce will thicken like a firm jelly. 
When the oil is half in, add the juice of one lemon by 
degrees with the remainder of the oil ; and last, add 
quarter of a cup of good vinegar. This will keep for 
weeks, and can be used with either chicken, salmon, or 
vegetable salad. 

A simpler form can be made with the yolk of one ^g^, 
half a pint of oil, and half the ingredients given above. 
It can be colored red with the juice of a boiled beet, or 
with the coral of a lobster, and is very nice as a dressing 
for raw tomatoes, cutting them in thick slices, and putting 
a little of it on each slice. 



SAUCES AND SALADS. 179 

Ma3'onnaise may be varied in man}' ways, sauce tar- 
tare being a favorite one. This is simply two even table- 
.spoonfuls of capers, half a small onion, and a tablespoon- 
fiil of parsley, and two gherkins or a small cucumber, all 
minced fine and added to half a pint of maj'onnaise. 
This keeps a long time, and is ver}^ nice for fried fish or 
plain boiled tongue. 

Dressing without Oil. 

Cream a small cup of butter, and stir into it the yolks 
of three eggs. Mix together one teaspoonful of mustard, 
one teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of 
ca3'enne, and add to the butter and egg. Stir in slowly, 
instead of oil, one cup of cream, and add the juice of one 
lemon and half a cup of vinegar. 

Boiled Dressing for Cold Slaw. 

This is good also for vegetable salads. One small cup 
of good vinegar ; two tablespoonfuls of sugar ; half a 
teaspoonful each of salt and mustard ; a saltspoonful of 
pepper ; a piece of butter the size of a walnut ; and two 
beaten eggs. Put these all in a small saucepan over the 
fire, and stir till it becomes a smooth paste. Have a firm, 
white cabbage, very cold, and chopped fine ; and mix the 
dressing well through it. It will keep several days in a 
cold place. 

Chicken Salad. 

Boil a tender chicken, and when cold, cut all the meat 
in dice. Cut up white tender celery enough to make the 
same amount, and mix with the meat. Stir into it a table- 
spoonful of oil with three of vinegar, and a saltspoonful 
each of mustard and salt, and let it stand an hour or two. 



180 EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 

When read}' to serve, mix the whole with a mayonnaise 
sauce, leaving part to mask the top ; or use the ma3'on- 
naise alone, without the first dressing of vinegar and oil. 
Lettuce can be substituted for celery ; and where neither 
is obtainable, a crisp white cabbage may be chopped fine, 
and the meat of the chicken also, and either a teaspoonful 
of extract of celery or celery-seed used to flavor it. The 
fat of the chicken, taken from the water in wliich it was 
boiled, carefull}^ melted and strained, and cooled again, 
is often used by Southern housekeepers. 

Salmon Mayonnaise. 

CarefuU}' remove all the skin and bones from a pound 
of boiled salmon, or use a small can of the sealed, drain- 
ing away all the liquid Cut in small pieces, and season 
with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a small onion 
minced fine, and half a teaspoonful each of salt and 
pepper. Cover the bottom of the salad dish with crisp 
lettuce-leaves ; lay the salmon on it, and pour on the sauce. 
The meat of a lobster can be treated in the same way. 



EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST 
DISHES. 

Boiled Eggs. 

Let the water be boihng fast when the eggs are put in, 
that it may not be checked. They should have lain in 
warm water a few minutes before boiling, to prevent the 
shells cracking. Allow three minutes for a soft-boiled 
egg; four, to have the white firmly set; and ten, for a 



EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 181 

hard-boiled egg. Another method is to pour boiling water 
on the eggs, and let them stand for ten minutes where 
they will be nearly at boiling-point, though not boiling. 
The white and yolk are then perfectly cooked, and of jell}'- 

like consistencj'. 

Poached Eggs. 

• 

Have a deep frying-pan full of boiling water, — simmer- 
ing, not boiling furiously. Put in two teaspoonfuls of 
vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt. Break each egg into 
a cup or saucer, allowing one for each person ; slide gently 
into the water, and let them stand five minutes, but with- 
out boiling. Have ready small slices of buttered toast 
which have been previously dipped quickly into hot water. 
Take up the eggs on a skimmer ; trim the edges evenly, 
and slip off upon the toast, serving at once. For fried 
eggs, see Ham and Eggs., p. 158. 

Scrambled Eggs. 

Break half a dozen eggs into a bowl, and beat for a 
minute. Have the frying-pan hot. Melt a tablespoon- 
ful of butter, with an even teaspoonful of salt and a 
saltspoonful of pepper, and turn in the eggs. Stir them 
constantly as they harden, until they are a firm yet deli- 
cate mixture of white and yellow, and turn into a hot 
dish, serving at onee. A cup of milk may be added if 
liked. The whole operation should not exceed five 

minutes. 

Baked Eggs. 

Break the eggs into a buttered pudding-dish. Salt and 
pepper them very lightly, and bake in a quick oven till 
set. Or turn over them a cupful of good grav}', that of 



182 EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 

veal or poultry being especiall^^ nice, and bake in the 
same way. Serve in the dish they were baked in. 

Stuffed Eggs. 

Boil eggs for twenty minutes. Drop them in cold water, 
and when cold, take off the shells, and cut the egg in two 
lengthwise. Take out the yolks carefull}" ; rub them fine 
on a plate, and add an equal amount of deviled ham, or of 
cold tongue or chicken, minced very fine. If chicken is 
used, add a saltspoonful of salt and a pinch of cayenne. 
Roll the mixture into little balls the size of the yolk ; 
fill each white with it ; arrange on a dish w^ith sprigs of 
parsley, and use cold as a lunch dish. They can also be 
served hot by laying them in a deep buttered pie-plate, 
covering with a cream roux^ dusting thickly with bread- 
crumbs, and browning in a quick oven. 

Plain Omelet. 

The pan for frying an omelet should be clean and 
very smooth. Break the eggs one by one into a cup, 
to avoid the risk of a spoiled one. Allow from three 
to five, but never over five, for a single omelet. Turn 
them into a bowl, and give them twelve beats with whisk 
or fork. Put butter the size of an egg into the frying- 
pan, and let it run over the entire surface. As it begins 
to boil, turn in the eggs. Hold the handle of the pan 
in one hand, and with the other draw the egg constantl}' 
up from the edges as it sets, passing a knife underneath 
to let the butter run under. Shake the pan now and then 
to keep the omelet from scorching. It should be firm at 
the edges, and creamy in the middle. When done, either 



EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES, 183 

fold over one-half on the other, and turn on to a hot plat- 
ter to serve at once, or set in the oven a minute to brown 
the top, turning it out in a round. A little chopped ham 
or parsle}' may be added. The myriad forms of omelet to 
be found in large cook-books are simply this plain one, 
with a spoonful or so of chopped mushrooms or tomatoes 
or green pease laid in the middle of it just before folding 
and serving. A vanation is also made by beating whites 
and yolks separatel}', then adding half a cup of cream or 
milk ; doubling the seasoning given above, and then follow- 
ing the directions for frying. Quarter of an onion and a 
sprig or two of parsley minced fine are a very nice addi- 
tion. A cupful of finely minced fish, either fresh or salt, 
makes a fish omlet. Chopped oysters may also be used ; 
and many persons like a large spoonful of grated cheese, 
though this is a French rather than American taste. 

Baked Omelet. 

One large cup of milk ; five eggs ; a saltspoonful of 
salt ; and half a one of white pepper mixed with the last. 
Beat the eggs well, a Dover egg-beater being the best 
possible one where yolks and whites are not separated ; 
add the salt and pepper, and then the milk. Melt a piece 
of butter the size of an egg in a frying-pan, and when it 
boils, pour in the egg. Let it stand two minutes, or long 
enough to harden a little, but do not stir at all. When a 
little firm, put into a quick oven, and bake till brown. It 
will rise very high, but falls almost immediately. Serve 
at once on a very hot platter. This omelet can also be 
varied with chopped ham or parsley. The old-fashioned 
iron spider with short handle is best for baking it, as a 



184 EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 

long-handled pan cannot be shut up in the oven. This 
omelet can also be fried in large spoonfuls, like pancakes, 
rolling each one as done. 

Cheese Fondu. 

This prei:i^ration of grated cheese and eggs can be naade 
in a large dish for several people, or in ''portions" for 
one, each in a small earthen dish. For one portion allow 
two eggs ; half a saltspoonful of salt ; a heaping table- 
spoonful of grated cheese ; two of milk ; and a few grains 
of ca3'enne. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in the dish, 
and when it boils, pour in the cheese and egg^ and cook 
slowly till it is well set. It is served in the dish in which 
it is cooked, and should be eaten at once. 

An adaptation of this has been made by Mattieu 
Williams, the author of the "^ Chemistry of Cookery.'' 
It is as follows : — 

Soak enough slices of bread to fill a quart pudding-dish, 
in a pint of milk, to which half a teaspoonful of salt and 
two beaten eggs have been added. Butter the pudding- 
dish and lay in the bread, putting a thick coating of 
grated cheese on each slice. Pour what milk may remain 
over the top, and bake slowly about half an hour. 

Cheese Souffle. 

Melt in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
add to it half a teaspoonful of dr}^ mustard ; a grain cf 
cayenne ; a saltspoonful of white pepper ; a grate of nut- 
meg ; two tablespoonfuls of flour ; and stir all smooth, 
adding a gill of milk and a large cupful of grated cheese. 
Stir into this as much powdered bi-carbonate of potash as 



EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 185 

will stand on a three-cent piece, and then beat in three 
eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. Pour this 
into a buttered earthen dish ; bake in a quick oven, and 
serve at once. In all cases where cheese disagrees it 
will be found that the bi-carbonate of potash renders it 
harmless. 

To BOIL Oatmeal or Crushed Wheat. 

Have ready a quart of boiling water in a farina-boiler, 
or use a snaall pail set in a saucepan of boiling water. 
If oatmeal or any grain is boiled in a single saucepan, 
it forms, no matter how often it is stirred, a thick crust 
on the bottom ; and, as never to stir is a cardinal rule for 
all these preparations, let the next one be, a double boiler. 

Add a teaspoonful of salt to the quart of water in the 
inside boiler. Be sure iUis boiling, and then throw in one 
even cup of oatmeal or crushed wheat. Now let it alone 
for two hours, only being sure that the water in the out- 
side saucepan does not dry away, but boils steadil}'. 
When done, each grain should be distinct, yet jelly-like. 
Stirring makes a mere mush, neither ver}^ attractive nor 
palatable. If there is not time for this long boiling in 
the morning, let it be done the afternoon before. Do 
not turn out the oatmeal, but fill the outer boiler next 
morning, and let it boil half art hour, or till heated 



through, 



Coarse Hominy, 



Treat like oatmeal, using same amount to a quart of 
water, save that it must be thoroughly washed before- 
hand. Three hours' boiling is better than two. 



186 EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 

Fine Hominy. 

Allow a cupful to a quart of boiling, salted water. 
Wash it in two or three waters, put over, and boil steadily 
for half an hour, or till it will pour out easil3\ If too 
thin, boil uncovered for a short time. Stir in a table- 
spoonful of butter before sending to table. Any of these 
preparations may be cut in slices when cold, floured on 
each side, and fried brown like mush. 

Fine Hominy Cakes. 

One pint of cold boiled hominy ; two eggs ; a salt- 
spoonful of salt ; and a tablespoonful of butter melted. 
Break up the hominy fine with a fork, and add salt and 
butter. Beat the eggs, — whites and yolks separately ; 
add the yolks first, and last the whites ; and either fr}^ 
brown in a little butter or drop by spoonfuls on buttered 
plates, and bake brown in a quick oven. This is a nice 
side-dish at dinner. Oatmeal and wheat can be used in 
the same way at breakfast. 

Hasty Pudding, or Mush. 

One cup of sifted Indian meal, stirred smooth in a 
bowl with a little cold water. Have ready a quart of 
boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt, and pour in the 
meal. Boil half an hour, or till it will just pour, stirring 
often. To be eaten hot with butter and sirup. Kye or 
graham flour can be used in the same way. If intended 
to fry, pour the hot mush into a shallow pan which has 
been wet with cold water to prevent its sticking. A 
spoonful of butter may be added while hot, but is not 



EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 187 

necessary. Cut in thin slices when cold ; flour each side ; 
and fry brown in a little butter or nice drippings, serving 
hot. 

What to do with Cold Potatoes. 

Chop, as for hash ; melt a tablespoonful of either butter 
or nice drippings in a frying-pan ; add, for six or eight 
good-sized potatoes, one even teaspoonful of salt and a 
saltspoonful of pepper. When the fat boils, put in the 
potatoes, and fry for about ten minutes, or until well 
browned. As soon as they are done, if not ready to use, 
move to the back of the stove, that they may not burn. 

Or cut each potato in lengthwise shces ; dredge on a 
little flour ; and fry brown on each side, watching carefully 
that they do not burn. The fat from two or three slices 
of fried salt pork may be used for these. 

Lyonxaise Potatoes. 

Slice six cold boiled potatoes. Mince very fine an 
onion and two or three sprigs of parsley^ — enough to 
fill a teaspoon. Melt in a fr3'ing-pan a tablespoonful of 
butter ; put in the onion, and fry light brown ; then add 
the potatoes, and fry to a light brown also, turning them 
often. Put into a hot dish, stirring in the minced parslc}', 
and pouring over them an}^ butter that may be left in the 
pan. 

Stewed Potatoes. 

One pint of cold boiled potatoes cut in bits ; one cup of 
milk ; butter the size of an egg ; a heaping teaspoonful 
of flour. Melt the butter in a saucepan ; add the flour, 
and cook a moment ; and pour in the milk, an even tea- 



188 EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 

spoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. 
When it boils, add the potatoes. Boil a minute, and 
serve. 

Saratoga Potatoes. 

Pare potatoes, and slice thin as wafers, either with a 
potato-slicer or a thin-bladed, very sharp knife. Lay 
in very cold water at least an hour before using. If for 
breakfast, over-night is better. Have boiling lard at 
least three inches deep in a frying kettle or pan. Dry 
the potatoes thoroughly in a towel, and drop in a few 
slices at a time, frying to a golden brown. Take out 
with a skimmer, and la}^ on a double brown paper in 
the oven to dry, salting them lightly. The}^ ma}^ be 
eaten either hot or cold. Three medium-sized potatoes 
will make a large dishful ; or, as the}' keep perfectl}^ well, 
enough may be done at once for several meals, heating 
them a few minutes in the oven before using. 

Fish Balls. 

One pint of cold salt lish, prepared as on page 136, 
and chopped ver}^ fine. Eight good-sized, freshly-boiled 
potatoes, or enough to make a quart when mashed. Mash 
with half a teaspoonful of salt, and a heaping table- 
spoonful of butter, and, if liked, a teaspoonful of made 
mustard. Mix in the chopped fish, blending both thor- 
oughly. Make into small, round cakes ; flour on each 
side ; and fty brown in a little drippings or fat of fried 
pork. A nicer way is to make into round balls, allowing 
a large tablespoonful to each. Roll in flour ; or they can 
be egged and crumbed like croquettes. Drop into boiling 
lard ; drain on brown paper, and serve hot. Fresh fish 



EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 189 

can be used in the same wa}', and is very nice. Bread- 
crumbs, softened in milk, can be used instead of potato, 
but are not so good. 

Fish Hash. 

Use either fresh fish or salt. If the former, double 
the measure of salt will be needed. Prepare and mix as 
in fish balls, allowing alwa3's double the amount of fresh 
mashed potato that you have of fish. Melt a large spoon- 
ful of butter or drippings in a frying-pan. When hot, 
put in the fish. Let it stand till brown on the bottom, and 
then stir. Do this two or three times, letting it brown at 
the last, pressing it into omelet form, and turning out on a 
hot platter, or piling it hghtly. 

Fish with Cream. 

One pint of cold minced fish, either salt cod or fresh 
fish ; always doubling the amount of seasoning given if 
fresh is used. Melt in a frying-pan a tablespoon ful of 
butter ; stir in a heaping one of flour, and cook a minute ; 
then add a pint of milk and a saltspoonful each of salt 
and pepper. When it boils, stir in the fish, and add two 
well-beaten eggs. Cook for a minute, and serve ver}' hot. 

Cold salmon, or that put up unspiced, is nice done in 
this way. The eggs can be omitted, but it is not as good. 
If cream is plenty, use part cream. Any cold boiled 
fresh fish can be used in this way. 

Salt Mackerel or Roe Herring. 

Soak over-night, the skin-side up. In the morning 
wipe dry, and either broil, as in general directions for 



190 EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES, 

broiling fish, page 133, or fry brown in pork fat or 
drippings. 

Salted shad are treated in the sanae way. All are 
better broiled. 

Fried Sausages. 

If in skins, prick them all over with a large darning- 
needle or fork ; throw them into a saucepan of boiling 
water and boil for one minute. Take out, wipe dry, and 
lay in a hot frying-pan, in which has been melted a table- 
spoonful of hot lard or drippings. Turn often. As soon 
as brown they are done. If gravy is wanted, stir a table- 
spoonful of flour into the fat in the pan ; add a cup of 
boiling water, and salt to taste, — about a saltspoonful, — 
and pour, not over, but around the sausages. Serve 
hot. 

Frizzled Beef. 

Half a pound of smoked beef cut very thin. This can 
be just heated in a tablespoonful of hot butter, and then 
served, or prepared as follows : — 

Pour boiling w^ater on the beef, and let it stand five 
minutes. In the meantime melt in a frjing-pan one 
tablespoonful of butter ; stir in a tablespoonful of flour, 
and add slowl}' half a pint of milk or water. Put in the 
beef which has been taken from the water ; cook a few 
mmutes, and add two or three well-beaten eggs, cooking 
only a minute longer. It can be prepared without eggs, 
or they may be added to the beef just heated in butter ; 
but the last method is best. 



EGGS AND BREAKFAST DISHES, 1^1 

Veal Loaf. 

Three pounds of lean veal and quarter of a pound of 
salt pork chopped very fine. Mince an onion as fine as 
possible. Grate a nutmeg, or use half a teaspoonful of 
powdered mace, mixing it with an even tablespoonful 
of salt, and an even saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. 
Add three well-beaten eggs, a teacupful of milk, and a 
large spoonful of melted butter. Mix the ingredients very 
thoroughly ; form into a loaf ; cover thickly with sifted 
bread or cracker crumbs, and bake three hours, basting 
now and then with a little butter and water. AYhen cold, 
cut in thin slices, and use for breakfast or tea. It is 
good for breakfast with baked potatoes, and slices of it 
are sometimes served around a salad. A glass of wine is 
sometimes added before baking. 

Meat Hash. 

The English hash is meat cut either in slices or mouth- 
fuls, and warmed in the gravy ; and the Southern hash 
is the same. A genuine hash, however, requires potato, 
and may be made of any sort of meat ; cold roast beef 
being excellent, and cold corned beef best of all. Mutton 
is good ; but veal should alwaj^s be used as a mince, and 
served on toast as in the rule to be given. 

Chop the meat fine, and allow one-third meat to two- 
thirds potato. For corned-beef hash the potatoes should 
be freshly boiled and mashed. For other cold meats 
finely-chopped cold potatoes will answer. To a quart of 
the mixture allow a teaspoonful of salt and half a tea- 
spoonful of pepper mixed together, and sprinkled on the 
meat before chopping. Heat a tablespoonful of butter or 
nice drippings in a frying-pan ; moisten the hash with a 



192 EGGS AND BREAKFAST DISHES. 

little cold gravy or water ; and heat slowly, stirring often. 
It may be served on buttered toast when hot, without 
browning, but is better browned. To accomplish this, 
first heat through, then set on the back of the stove, and 
let it stand twenty minutes. Fold like an omelet, or turn 
out in a round, and serve hot. 

Minced Veal. 

Chop cold veal fine, picking out all bits of gristle. To 
a pint-bowlful allow a large cup of boiling water ; a table- 
spoonful of butter and one of flour ; a teaspoonful of 
salt ; and a saltspoonful each of pepper and mace. Make 
a roux with the butter and flour, and add the seasoning ; 
put in the veal, and cook five minutes, serving it on but- 
tered toast, made as in directions given for water toast. 

Toast, Dry or Buttered. 

Not one person in a hundred makes good toast ; yet 
nothing can be simpler. Cut the slices of bread evenly, 
and rather thin. If a wire toaster is used, several can 
be done at once. Hold just far enough from the fire to 
brown nicely ; and turn often, that there may be no 
scorching. Toast to an even, golden brown. No rule 
will secure this, and only experience and care will teach 
one just what degree of heat will do it. If to be 
buttered dry, butter each slice evenly as taken from the 
fire, and pile on a hot plate. If served without butter, 
either send to table in a toast-rack, or, if on a plate, do 
not pile together, but let the slices touch as little as pos- 
sible, that they may not steam and lose crispness. 



TEA, COFFEE, ETC, 1^3 

Water Toast. 

Have a pan of boiling hot, well-salted water ; a tea- 
spoonful to a quart being the invariable rule. Dip each 
slice of toast quickly into this. It must not be wet^ but 
only moistened. Butter, and pile on a hot plate. Poached 
eggs and minces are served on this form of toast, which 
is also nice with fricasseed chicken. 

Milk Toast. 

Scald a quart of milk in a double boiler, and thicken it 
with two even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved in a 
little cold water, or the same amount of flour. Add a 
teaspoonful of salt, and a heaping tablespoonful of butter. 
Have ready a dozen slices of water toast, which, unless 
wanted quite rich, needs no butter. Pour the thickened 
milk into a pan, that each slice may be easily dipped into 
it, and pile them when dipped in a deep dish, pouring the 
rest of the milk over them. Serve very hot. Cream is 
sometimes used instead of milk, in which case no thick- 
ening is put in, and only a pint heated with a saltspoonful 
of salt. 



TEA, COFFEE, ETC. 

For these a cardinal rule has already been given in 
Part I., but can not be enforced too often ; viz., the neces- 
sity of fresh water boiled, and used as soon as it boils, 
that the gases which give it character and sparkle may 
not have had time to escape. Tea and coffee both should 
be kept from the air, but the former even more carefully 

13 



194 TEA, COFFEE, ETC. 

than the latter, as the delicate flavor evaporates more 
quickly. 

Tea. 

To begin with, never use a tin teapot if an earthen 
one is obtainable. An even teaspoonful of dry tea is 
the usual allowance for a person. Scald the teapot with 
a little boiling water ^ and pour it off. Put in the tea, 
and pour on not over a cup of boiling water, letting it 
stand a minute or two for the leaves to swell. Then fill 
with the needed amount of water still boiling^ this being 
about a small cupful to a person. Cover closely, and let it 
stand five minutes. Ten will be required for English 
breakfast tea, but never boil either, above all in a tin pot. 
Boiling liberates the tannic acid of the tea, which acts 
upon the tin, making a compound bitter and metallic in 
taste, and unfit for human stomachs. 

Coffee. 

The best coffee is made from a mixture of two-thirds 
Java and one-third Mocha ; the Java giving strength, 
and the Mocha flavor and aroma. The roasting must be 
very perfectly done. If done at home, constant stirring 
is necessary to prevent burning ; but all good grocers 
use now rotary roasters, which brown each grain per- 
fectly. Buy in small quantities unground ; keep closely 
covered ; and if the highest flavor is wanted, heat hot be- 
fore grinding. 

A noted German chemist claims to have discovered an 
effectual antidote to the harmful eflfects of cofl^ee, — an 
antidote for which he had searched for 3xars. In his expe- 
riments he discovered that the fibre of cotton, in its natural 



TEA, COFFEE, ETC. 195 

state before bleaching, neutralizes the harmful principle of 
the caffein. To make absolutely harmless coffee which yet 
has no loss of flavor, it is to be boiled in a bag of unbleached 
cheese-cloth or something equally porous. In the coffee- 
pot of his invention, the rounds of cotton are slipped 
between two cylinders of tin, and the boiling water is 
poured through once or twice, on the same principle as 
French filtered coffee. The cloths must be rinsed in hot 
and then cold water daily and carefully dried ; and none 
are to be used longer than one week, as at the end of that 
time, even with careful washing, the fibre is saturated 
with the harmful principle. The same proportions of 
coffee as those given below are used, and the pot must 
stand in a hot place while the water filters through. 

For a quart of coffee allow four heaping tablespoonfuls 
of coffee when ground. Scald the coffee-pot ; mix the 
ground coffee with a little cold water and two or three 
egg-shells, which can be dried and kept for this purpose. 
Part of a fresh egg with the shell is still better. Put into 
the hot coffee-pot, and pour on one quart of boiling water. 
Cover tightl}', and boil five minutes ; then pour out a cup- 
ful to free the spout from grounds, and return this to the 
pot. Let it stand a few minutes to settle, and serve with 
boiled milk, and cream if it is to be had. Never for 
appearance's sake decant coffee. Much of the flavor is 
lost by turning from one pot into another, and the shapes 
are now suflflciently pretty to make the block tin ones not 
at all unpresentable at table. 

Where coffee is required for a large compan}^ allow a 
pound and a half to a gallon of water. 

Coffee made in a French filter or biggin is considered 
better by many ; but I have preferred to give a rule that 



196 TEA, COFFEE, ETC. 

may be used with certainty where French cooking utensils 
are unknown. 

Cocoa, Broma, and Shells. 

The directions found on packages of these articles are 
always reliable. The cocoa or broma should be mixed 
smoothly with a little boiling water, and added to that in 
the saucepan ; one quart of either requiring a pint each 
of milk and water, about three tablespoonfuls of cocoa, and 
a small cup of sugar. A pinch of salt is always a great 
improvement. Boil for half an hour. 

Shells are merely the husk of the eacoa-nut ; and a 
cupful to a quart of boiling water is the amount needed. 
Boil steadily an hour, and use with milk and sugar. 

Chocolate. 

This rule, though unlike that given in cook-books gen- 
erally, makes a drink in consistency and flavor like that 
offered at Maillard's or Mendee's, the largest chocolate 
manufacturers in the country. 

Scrape or grate fine two squares (two ounces) of Baker's 
or any unsweetened chocolate. Add to this one small cup 
of sugar and a pinch of salt, and put into a saucepan with 
a tablespoonful of water. Stir for a few minutes till 
smooth and glossy, and then pour in gradually one pint 
of milk and one of boiUng water. Let all boil a minute. 
Dissolve one heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch or arrow- 
root in a little cold water, and add to the chocolate. Boil 
one minute, and serve. If cream can be had, whip to a 
stiff froth, allowing two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a 
few drops of vanilla essence to a cup of cream. Serve 
a spoonful laid on the top of the chocolate in each cup. 



VEGETABLES. 197 

The corn-starch may be omitted, but is necessar}" to the 
perfection of this rule, the following of which renders 
the chocolate not only smooth, but entirely free from 
any oily particles. Flavor is lost bj^ any longer boil- 
ing, though usually half an hour has been considered 
necessary. 



VEGETABLES. 

Potatoes. 

To be able to boil a potato perfectly is one of the 
tests of a good cook, there being nothing in the whole 
range of vegetables which is apparentl}^ so difficult to 
accomplish. Like the making of good bread, nothing is 
simpler when once learned. A good boiled potato should 
be white, mealy, and served ver^^ hot. If the potatoes 
are old, peel thinly with a sharp knife ; cut out all spots, 
and let them lie in cold water some hours before using. 
It is more economical to boil before peeling, as the best 
part of the potato lies next the skin ; but most prefer them 
peeled. Put on in boiling w^ater, allowing a teaspoonful 
of salt to ever}^ quart of water. Medium-sized potatoes 
will boil in half an hour. Let them be as nearly of a size 
as possible, and if small and large are cooked at the same 
time, put on the large ones ten or fifteen minutes before 
the small. When done, pour off every drop of water ; 
cover with a clean towel, and set on the back of the range 
to dry for a few minutes before serving. The poorest 
potato can be made tolerable b}^ this treatment. Never 
let them wait for other things, but time the preparation of 
dinner so that they will be ready at the moment needed. 



198 VEGETABLES. 

New potatoes require no peeling, but should merely be 
well washed and rubbed. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Boil as directed, and when dry and mealy, mash fine 
with a potato-masher or large spoon, allowing for a dozen 
medium-sized potatoes a piece of butter the size of an 
egg, half a cup of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a 
teaspoonful of white pepper. The milk may be omitted 
if the potato is preferred dry. Pile lightly in a dish, or 
smooth over, and serve at once. Never brown in the 
oven, as it destroys the good flavor. 

Potato Snow. 

Mash as above, and rub through a colander into a ver}'' 
hot dish, being careful not to press it down in any way, 
and serve hot as possible. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Wash and scrub carefullj', as some persons eat the 
skin. A large potato requires an hour to bake. Their 
excellence depends upon being eaten the moment they are 
done. 

Potatoes with Beef. 

Pare, and laj" in cold water at least an hour. An hour 
before a roast of beef is done, lay in the pan, and baste 
them when the beef is basted. They are very nice. 

Potato Croquettes. 

Cold mashed potatoes may be used, but fresh is better. 
To half a dozen potatoes, mashed as in directions given, 



VEGETABLES. 199 

allow quarter of a saltspoonful each of mace or nutmeg 
and cayenne pepper, and one beaten egg. Make in little 
balls or rolls ; egg and crumb, and fry in boiling lard. 
Drain on brown paper, and serve like chicken croquettes. 

Sweet Potatoes. 

Wash carefully, and boil without peeling from three- 
quarters of an hour to an hour. Peel, and dry in the oven 
ten minutes. They are better baked, requiring about an 
hour for medium-sized ones. 

Beets. 

Winter beets should be soaked over-night. Wash them 
carefully ; but never peel or even prick them, as color and 
sweetness would be lost. Put in boihng, salted water. 
Young beets will cook in two hours ; old ones require 
five or six. Peel, and if large, cut in slices, putting a 
little butter on each one. They can be served cold in a 
little vinegar. 

Parsnips. 

Wash, and scrape clean ; cut lengthwise in halves, and 
boil an hour, or two if very old. Serve whole with a 
little drawn butter, or mash fine, season well, allowing to 
half a dozen large parsnips a teaspoonful of salt, a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. 

Parsnip Fritters. 

Three large parsnips boiled and mashed fine, adding 
two well-beaten eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of milk, and one 
heaping one of flour. Drop in spoonfuls, and fry brown in 
a little hot butter. Oyster-plant fritters are made in the 
same way. 



200 VEGETABLES. 

Oyster-Plant Stewed. 

Scrape, and throw at once into cold water with a little 
vinegar in it, to keep them from turning black. Cut in 
small pieces, or boil whole for an hour. Mash fine, and 
make like parsnip fritters ; or drain the pieces dry, and 
serve with drawn butter. 

Carrots. 

Carrots are most savory boiled with corned beef for two 
hours. They may also be boiled plain, cut in slices, and 
served with drawn butter. For old carrots not less than 
two hours will be necessary. Plenty of water must be 
used, and when cold the carrots are to be cut in dice. 
Melt in a saucepan a spoonful of butter ; add half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoon- 
ful of sugar, and when the butter boils put m the carrots, 
and stir till heated through. Pile them in the centre of a 
platter, and put around them a can of French peas, which 
have been cooked in only a spoonful of water, with a tea- 
spoonful of sugar, a spoonful of butter, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and a dash of pepper. This is a pretty and 
excellent dish, and substantial as meat. A cup of stock 
can be added to the carrots if desired, but they are better 
without it. 

Turnips. 

Pare and cut in quarters. Boil in well- salted water for 
an hour, or until tender. Drain off the w^ater, and let 
them stand a few minutes to dry ; then mash fine, allow- 
ing for about a quart a teaspoonful of salt, half a one of 
pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a w^alnut. 

Or they may be left in pieces, and served with drawn 
butter. 



VEGETABLES, 201 



Cabbage. 



Wash, and look over very carefullj% and lay in cold 
water an hour. Cut in quarters, and boil with corned beef 
an hour^ or till tender, or with a small piece of salt pork. 
Drain, and serve whole as possible. A much nicer way is 
to boil in well-salted water, changing it once after the first 
half-hour. Boil an hour ; take up and drain ; chop fine, 
and add a teacupful of milk, a piece of butter the size of 
an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper. 
Serve very hot. For cabbage Virginia fashion, and the 
best of fashions, too, bake this last form in a buttered 
pudding-dish, having first stirred in two or three well- 
beaten eggs, and covered the top with bread-crumbs. 
Bake till brown. 

Cauliflower. 

Wash and trim, and boil in a bag made of mosquito- 
netting to keep it whole. Boil steadily in well-salted water 
for one hour. Dish carefulh^, and pour over it a nice 
drawn butter. Any cold remains may be used as salad, 
or chopped and baked, as in rule for baked cabbage. 

Onions. 

If milk is plenty, use equal quantities of skim-milk and 
water, allowing a quart of each for a dozen or so large 
onions. If water alone is used, change it after the first 
half-hour, as this prevents their turning dark ; salting as 
for all vegetables, and boiling young onions one hour ; 
old ones, two. Either chop fine, and add a spoonful of 
butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper, or 
serve them whole in a dressing made by heating one cup 



202 VEGETABLES. 

of milk with the same butter and other seasoning as when 
chopped. Put the onions in a hot dish, pour this over 
them, and serve. They may also be half boiled ; then put 
in a buttered dish, covered with this sauce and a layer of 
bread-crumbs, and baked for an hour. 

Winter Squash. 

Cut in two, and take out the seeds and fiber. Half will 
probably be enough to cook at once. Cut this in pieces ; 
pare off the rind, and lay each piece in a steamer. Never 
boil in water if it can be avoided, as it must be as dry as 
possible. Steam for two hours. Mash fine, or run 
through a vegetable sifter, and, for a quart or so of squash, 
allow a piece of butter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful 
of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Serve very hot. 

Summer Squash, or Cimlins. 

Steam as directed above, taking out the seeds, but not 
peeling them. Mash through a colander ; season, and 
serve hot. If very young, the seeds are often cooked in 
them. Half an hour will be suflScient. 

Pease. 

Shell, and put over in boiling, salted water, to which a 
teaspoonful of sugar has been added. Boil till tender, 
half an hour or a little more. Drain off the water ; add a 
piece of butter the size of an egg, and a saltspoonful of 
salt. If the pease are old, put a bit of soda the size of a 
pea in the water. 

Field Pease. 

These are generally used after drying. Soak over-night, 
and boil two hours, or till tender, with or without a small 



VEGETABLES. 203 

piece of bacon. If without, butter as for green pease. 
Or they can be mashed fine, rubbed through a sieve, and 
then seasoned, adding a pinch of cayenne pepper. 

In Virginia they are often boiled, mashed a little, and 
fried in a large cake. 

Succotash. 

Boil green corn and beans separately. Cut the corn 
from the cob, and season both as in either alone. A 
nicer way, however, is to score the rows in half a dozen 
ears of corn ; scrape off the corn ; add a pint of lima or 
any nice green bean, and boil one hour in a quart of 
boiling water, with one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, 
and a saltspoonful of pepper. Let the water boil away 
to about a cupful ; add a spoonful of butter, and serve 
in a hot dish. Many, instead of butter, use with it a 
small piece of pork, — about quarter of a pound ; but it 
is better without. A spoonful of cream may be added. 
Canned corn and beans may be used ; and even dried 
beans and coarse hominy — the former well soaked, and 
both boiled together three hours — are very good. 

String Beans. 
String, cut in bits, and boil an hour if very young. If 
old, an hour and an half, or even two, may be needed. 
Drain off the water, and season like green pease. 

Shelled Beans. 

Any green bean may be used in this way, lima and 
butter beans being the nicest. Put on in boiling, salted 
water, and boil not less than one hour. Season like 
string beans. 



204 VEGETABLES, 

Green Corn. 

Husk, and pick off all the silk. Boil in well-salted 
water, and serve on the cob, wrapped in a napkin, or cut 
off and seasoned like beans. Cutting down through each 
row gives, when scraped off, the kernel without the hull. 

Green-Corn Fritters. 

One pint of green corn grated. This will require about 
six ears. Mix with this, half a cup of milk, two well- 
beaten eggs, half a cup of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, 
half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of 
melted butter. Fry in very small cakes in a little hot 
butter, browning well on both sides. Serve very hot. 

Corn Pudding. 

One pint of cut or grated corn, one pint of milk, two 
well-beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, and a salt- 
spoonful of pepper. Butter a pudding-dish, and bake 
the mixture half an hour. Canned corn can be used in 

the same way. 

Egg-Plant. 

Peel, cut in slices half an inch thick, and lay them in 

well-salted water for an hour. Wipe dry ; dip in flour or 

meal, and fry brown on each side. Fifteen minutes will 

be needed to cook sufficiently. The slices can be egged 

and crumbed before frying, and are nicer than when 

merely floured. 

Egg-Plant Fritters. 

Peel the egg-plant, and take out the seeds. Boil for an 
hour in well-salted water. Drain as dry as possible ; 
mash fine, and prepare precisely like corn fritters. 



VEGETABLES, 205 

Baked Egg-Plant. 

Peel, and cut out a piece from the top ; remove the 
seeds, and fill the space with a dressing like that for 
ducks, fitting in the piece cut out. Bake an hour, basting 
with a spoonful of butter melted in a cup of water, and 
dredging with flour between each basting. It is very nice. 

Asparagus. 

Wash, and cut off almost all of the white end. Tie up 
in small bundles ; put into boiling, salted water, and cook 
till tender, — about half an hour, or more if old. 

Make some slices of water toast, as in rule given, using 
the water in which the asparagus was boiled ; lay the 
slices on a hot platter, and the asparagus upon them, 
pouring a spoonful of melted butter over it. The aspara- 
gus may be cut in little bits, and, when boiled, a drawn 
butter poured over it, or served on toast, as when left 
whole. Cold asparagus may be cut fine, and used in an 
omelet, or simply warmed over. 

Spinach. 

Not less than a peck is needed for a dinner for three or 
four. Pick over carefully, wash, and let it lie in cold 
water an hour or two. Put on in boiling, salted water, 
and boil an hour, or until tender. Take up in a colander, 
that it may drain perfectly. Have in a hot dish a piece of 
butter the size of an egg^ half a teaspoonful of salt, a 
saltspoonful of pepper, and, if liked, a tablespoonful of 
vinegar. Chop the spinach fine, and put in the dish, stir- 
ring in this dressing thoroughly. A teacupful of cream is 
often added. Any tender greens, beet or turnip tops, 
kale, &c., are treated in this way; kale, however, re- 
quiring two hours' boiling. 



206 VEGETABLES. 

Artichokes. 

Cut off the outside leaves ; trim the bottom ; throw into 
boiling, salted water, with a teaspoonful of vinegar in it, 
and boil an hour. Season, and serve like turnips, or with 
drawn butter poured over them. 

Tomatoes stewed. 

Pour on boiling water to take off the skins ; cut in 
pieces, and stew slowly for half an hour ; adding for a 
dozen tomatoes a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful 
of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of 
sugar. Where they are preferred sweet, two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar will be necessary. They may be thickened 
with a tablespoonful of flour or corn- starch dissolved in a 
little cold water, or with half a cup of rolled cracker or 
bread crumbs. Canned tomatoes are stewed in the same 
way. 

Baked Tomatoes. 

Take off the skins ; lay the tomatoes in a buttered 
pudding-dish ; put a bit of butter on each one. Mix a 
teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper, with a 
cup of bread or cracker crumbs, and cover the top. Bake 
an hour. 

Or cut the tomatoes in bits, and put a layer of them 
and one of seasoned crumbs, ending with crumbs. Dot 
the top with bits of butter, that it may brown well, and 
bake in the same way. Canned tomatoes are almost 
equally good. Thin slices of well-buttered bread may be 
used instead of crumbs. 

Fried Tomatoes. 
Cut in thick slices. Mix in a plate half a teacupful of 



VEGETABLES, 207 

flour, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper ; 
and dip each slice in this, frying brown in hot butter. 

Boiled Tomatoes. 

Prepare as for frying, and broil in a wire broiler, putting 
a bit of butter on each slice when brown, and serving on 
a hot dish or on buttered toast. 

Rice. 

Wash in cold water, changing it at least twice. It is 
better if allowed to soak an hour. Drain, and throw into 
a good deal of boiling, salted water, allowing not less than 
two quarts to a cupful of rice. Boil twenty minutes, stir- 
ring now and then. Pour into a colander, that every drop 
of water may drain off, and then set it at the back of the 
stove to dry for ten minutes. In this way every grain is 
distinct, yet perfectly tender. If old, half an hour's 
boiling may be required. Test by biting a grain at the 
end of twenty minutes. If tender, it is done. 

Rice Croquettes. 
Where used as a vegetable with dinner, to a pint of 
cold boiled rice allow a tablespoonful of melted butter 
and one or two well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly. A 
pinch of cayenne or a little chopped parsley may be added. 
Make in the shape of corks ; egg and crumb, and fry a 
golden brown. 

Macaroni. 

Never wash macaroni if it can be avoided. Break in 
lengths of three or four inches and throw into boiling, 
salted water, allowing quarter of a pound for a dinner for 
three or four. Boil for half an hour, and drain off the 



208 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

water. It may be served plain with tomato sauce, or 
simply buttered, or with drawn butter poured over it. 

Macaroni with Cheese. 

Boil as directed. Make a pint of white sauce or roiix^ 
as on p. 169, using milk if it can be had, though water 
answers. Have a cupful of good grated cheese. But- 
ter a pudding-dish. Put in a layer of macaroni, one of 
sauce, and one of cheese, ending with cheese. Dust the 
top with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, dot with bits of 
butter, and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven. It can 
be baked in the same way without cheese, or with simply 
a cup of milk and two eggs added, making a sort of pud- 
ding 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

Bread-making and Flour. 

Much of the health, and consequently much of the 
happiness, of the family depends upon good bread : there- 
fore no pains should be spared in learning the best meth- 
od of making, which will prove easiest in the end. 

Yeast, flour, kneading, and baking must each be per- 
fect, and nothing in the whole range of cooking is of such 
prime importance. 

Once master the problem of yeast, and the first form of 
wheat bread, and endless varieties of both bread and 
breakfast cakes can be made. 

The old and the new process flour — the former being- 
known as the St. Louis, and the latter as Haxall flour — 



BBEAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 209 

are now to be had at all good grocers ; and from either 
good bread may be made, though that from the latter 
keeps moist longer. Potapsco flour is of the same quality 
as the St. Louis. It contains more starch than the St. 
Louis, and for this reason requires, even more than that, 
the use in the family of coarser or graham flour at the 
same time ; white bread alone not being as nutritious or 
strengthening, for reasons given in Part I. Graham flour 
is fast being superseded by a much better form, prepared 
principally by the Health Food Company in New York, 
in which the entire grain, save the husk, is ground as fine 
as the ordinary flour, thus doing away with the coarseness 
that many have objected to in graham bread. 

Flour made by the new process swells more than that 
by the old, and a little less quantity — about an eighth 
less — is therefore required in mixing and kneading. As 
definite rules as possible are given for the whole operation ; 
but experience alone can insure perfect bread, changes of 
temperature affecting it at once, and baking being also a 
critical point. 

Pans made of thick tin, or, better still, of Russia iron, 
ten inches long, four or five w^de, and four deep, make 
the best-shaped loaf, and one requiring a reasonably short 
time to bake. 

Yeast. 

Ingredients : One teacupful of lightly broken hops ; one 
pint of sifted flour ; one cupful of sugar ; one tablespoon- 
ful of salt ; four large or six medium-sized potatoes ; and 
two quarts of boiling water. 

Boil the potatoes, and mash them fine. At the same 
time, having tied the hops in a little bag, boil them for 
half an hour in the two quarts of water, but in another 

14 



210 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES, 

saucepan. Mix the flour, sugar, and salt well together in 
a large mixing-bowl, and pour on the boiling hop-water, 
stirring constantly. Now add enough of this to the mashed 
potato to thin it till it can be poured, and mix all together, 
straining it through a sieve to avoid any possible lumps. 
Add to this, when cool, either a cupful of yeast left from 
the last, or of baker's yeast, or a Twin Brothers' yeast 
cake dissolved in a little warm water. Let it stand till 
partly light, and then stir down two or three times in the 
course of five or six hom^s, as this makes it stronger. At 
the end of that time it will be light. Keep in a covered 
stone jar, or in glass cans. By stirring in corn-meal till a 
dough is made, and then forming it in small cakes and 
drying in the sun, dry yeast is made, which keeps better 
than the liquid in hot weather. Crumb, and soak in warm 
water half an hour before using. 

Potato yeast is made by omitting hops and flour, but 
mashing the potatoes fine with the same proportion of 
other ingredients, and adding the old yeast, when cool, as 
before. It is very nice, but must be made fresh every 
week ; while the other, kept in a cool place, will be good 

a month. 

Bread. 

For four loaves of bread of the pan-size given above, 
allow as follows : Four quarts of flour ; one large cup of 
yeast ; one tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, and one of 
butter or lard ; one pint of milk mixed with one of warm 
water, or one quart of water alone for the '' wetting." 

Sift the flour into a large pan or bowl. Put the sugar, 
salt, and butter in the bottom of the bread pan or bowl, 
and pour on a spoonful or two of boiling water, enough to 
dissolve all. Add the quart of wetting, and the yeast. 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 211 

Now stir in slowly two quarts of the flour ; cover with a 
cloth, and set in a temperature of about 75° to rise until 
morning. Bread mixed at nine in the evening will be 
ready to mould into loaves or rolls by six the next morn- 
ing. In summer it would be necessary to find a cool 
place; in winter a warm one, — the chief point being to 
keep the temperature even. If mixed early in the morning, 
it is ready to mold and bake in the afternoon, from seven 
to eight hours being all it should stand. 

This first mixture is called a sponge; and, if only a loaf 
of graham or rye bread is wanted, one quart of it can be 
measured, and thickened with other flour as in the rules 
given hereafter. 

To finish as wheat breads stir in enough flour from the 
two quarts remaining to make a dough. Flour the mold- 
ing-board very thickly, and turn out. Now begin knead- 
ing, flouring the hands, but after the dough is gathered 
into a smooth lump, using as little flour as maybe. Knead 
with the palm of the hand as much as possible. The 
dough quickly becomes a flat cake. Fold it over, and keep 
on, kneading not less than twenty minutes ; half an hour 
being better. 

Make into loaves ; put into the pans ; set them in a 
warm place, and let them rise from thirty to forty-five 
minutes, or till they have become nearly double in size. 
Bake in an oven hot enough to brown a teaspoonful of 
flour in one minute ; spreading the flour on a bit of broken 
plate, that it may have an even heat. Loaves of this size 
will bake in from forty-five to sixty minutes. Then take 
them from the pans ; wrap in thick cloths kept for the 
purpose and stand them, tilted up against the pans till 
cold. Never lay hot bread on a pine table, as it will sweat, 



212 BBEAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

and absorb the pitchy odor and taste ; but tilt, so that air 
may pass around it freely. Keep well covered in a tin 
box or large stone pot, which should be wiped out every 
day or two, and scalded and dried thoroughly now and 
then. Pans for wheat bread should be greased very light- 
]y ; for graham or rye, much more, as the dough sticks 
and clings. 

Instead of mixing a sponge, all the flour may be molded 
in and kneaded at once, and the dough set to rise in the 
same way. When light, turn out. Use as little flour as 
possible, and knead for fifteen minutes ; less time being 
required, as part of the kneading has already been done. 

Graham Bread. 

One quart of wheat sponge ; one even quart of graham 
flour ; half a teacupful of brown sugar or molasses ; half 
a teaspoonf ul of soda dissolved in a little hot water ; and 
half a teaspoonful of salt. 

Pour the sponge in a deep bowl ; stir in the molasses, 
&c., and lastly the flour, which must never be sifted. 
The mixture should be so stiff, that the spoon moves 
with difficulty. Bake in two loaves for an hour or an 
hour and a quarter, graham requiring longer baking than 
wheat. 

If no sponge can be spared, make as follows : One pint 
of milk or water ; half a cup of sugar or molasses ; half 
a cup of yeast ; one teaspoonful of salt ; one cup of 
wheat flour ; two cups of graham. AYarm the milk or 
water ; add the yeast and other ingredients, and then the 
flour ; and set in a cool place — about 60° Fahrenheit — 
over-night, graham bread souring more easily than wheat. 
Early in the morning stir well ; put into two deep, well- 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 213 

greased pans ; let it rise an hour in a warm place, and 
bake one hour. 

Graham Muffins. 
These are made by the same rule as the bread. Fill 
the muffin-pans two-thirds full ; let them rise till even 
with the top of the pans, which will take about an hour ; 
and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. To make 
them a little nicer, a large spoonful of melted butter may 
be added, and two beaten eggs. This will require longer 
to rise, as butter clogs the air-cells, and makes the work- 
ing of the yeast slower. The quantities given for bread 
will make two dozen muffins. 

Rye Bread. 

This bread is made by nearly the same rule as the 
graham, either using wheat sponge, or setting one over- 
night, but is kneaded slightly. Follow the rule just given, 
substituting rye for graham, but use enough rye to make 
a dough which can be turned out. It will take a quart. 
Use wheat flour for the molding-board and hands, as rye 
is very sticky ; and knead only long enough to get into 
good shape. Raise, and bake as in rule for graham 
bread. 

Rye Muffins. 

Make by above rule, but use only one pint of rye flour, 
adding two eggs and a spoonful of melted butter, and 
baking in the same way. A set of earthen cups are excel- 
lent for both these and graham muffins, as the heat in 
baking is more even. They are used also for pop-overs, 
Sunderland puddings, and some small cakes. 



214 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

Brown Bread. 

Sift together into a deep bowl one even cup of Indian 
meal, two heaping cups of rye flour, one even teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and one of soda. To one pint of hot water 
add one cup of molasses, and stir till well mixed. Make 
a hole in the middle of the meal, and stir in the molasses 
and water, beating all till smooth. Butter a tin pudding- 
boiler, or a three-pint tin pail, and put in the mixture, 
setting the boiler into a kettle or saucepan of boiling 
water. Boil steadily for four hours, keeping the water 
always at the same level. At the end of that time, take 
out the boiler, and set in the oven for fifteen minutes to 
dry and form a crust. Tiu*n out, and serve hot. 

Milk may be used instead of water, or the same mix- 
ture raised over-night with half a cup of yeast, and then 

steamed. 

Plain Rolls. 

A pint-bowlful of bread dough will make twelve small 
rolls. Increase amount of dough if more are desired. 
Flour the molding-board lightly, and work into the dough 
a piece of butter or lard the size of an egg. Knead not 
less than fifteen minutes, and cut into round cakes, which 
may be flattened and folded over, if folded or pocket rolls 
are wanted. In this case put a bit of butter or lard the 
size of a pea between the folds. For a cleft or French 
roll make the dough into small round balls, and press a 
knife-handle almost through the center of each. Put 
them about an inch apart in well-buttered pans, and let 
them rise an hour and a half before baking. They re- 
quire more time to rise than large loaves, as, being small, 
heat penetrates them almost at once, and thus there is 
very little rising in the oven. 

Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. 



BREAD AND BEEAKFAST CAKES. 215 

Parker-House Rolls. 

Two quarts of flour ; one pint of milk ; butter the size 
of an egg ; one tablespoon ful of sugar ; one teacupful of 
good yeast ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Boil the milk, and add the butter, salt, and sugar. 
Sift the flour into a deep bowl, and, when the milk is 
merely blood- warm, stir together with enough of the flour 
to form a batter or sponge. Do this at nine or ten in the 
evening, and set in a cool place, from 50° to 60°. Next 
morning about nine mix in the remainder of the flour ; turn 
on to the molding-board ; and knead for twenty minutes, 
using as little flour as possible. Return to the bowl, and set 
in cool place again till about four in the afternoon. Knead 
again for fifteen minutes ; roll out, and cut into rounds, 
treating them as in plain rolls. Let them rise one hour, 
and bake twenty minutes. One kneading makes a good 
breakfast roll ; but, to secure the peculiar delicacy of a 
" Parker-House," two are essential, and they are generally 
baked as a folded or pocket roll. If baked round, make 
the dough into a long roll on the board ; cut off small 
pieces, and make into round balls with the hand, setting 
them well apart in the pan. 

Soda and Cream of Tartar Biscuit. 

One quart of flour ; one even teaspoonful of salt ; one 
teaspoonful of soda, and two of cream of tartar ; a piece 
of lard or butter the size of an egg ; and a large cup of 
milk or water. 

Mix the soda, cream of tartar, and salt with the flour, 
having first mashed them fine, and sift all together twice. 
Rub the shortening in with the hands till perfectly fine. 
Add the milk ; mix and roll out as quickly as possible ; 



216 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

cut in rounds, and bake in a quick oven. If properly 
made, they are light as puffs ; but their success depends 
upon thorough and rapid mixing and baking. 

Bakixg-Powder Biscuit. 

Make as above, using two heaping teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder, instead of the soda and cream of tartar. 

Beaten Biscuit. 

Three pints of sifted flour ; one cup of lard ; one tea- 
spoonful of salt. Eub the lard and flour well together, 
and make into a very stiff dough with about a cup of milk 
or water : a little more may be necessary. Beat the dough 
with a rolling-pin for half an hour, or run through the 
little machine that comes for the purpose. Make into 
small biscuit, prick several times, and bake till brown. 

Wafers. 

One pint of sifted flour ; a piece of butter the size of a 
walnut ; half a teaspoonful of salt. 

Rub butter and flour together, and make into dough 
with half a cup of warm milk. Beat half an hour with 
the rolling-pin. Then take a bit of it no larger than a 
nut, and roll to the size of a saucer. They can not be too 
thin. Flour the pans lightly, and bake in a quick oven 
from five to ten minutes. 

Waffles. 

One pint of flour ; one teaspoonful of baking powder ; 
half a teaspoonful of salt ; three eggs ; butter the size of 
an egg ; and one and a quarter cups of milk. 

Sift salt and baking powder with the flour ; rub in the 



BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 217 

butter. Mix and add the beaten yolks and milk, and last 
stir in the whites which have been beaten to a stiff froth. 
Bake at once in well-greased waffle-irons. By using two 
cups of milk, the mixture is right for pancakes. If sour 
milk is used, substitute soda for the baking powder. Sour 
cream makes delicious waffles. 

EiCE OR HoiinNY Waffles. 

One pint of warm boiled rice or hominy ; one cup of 
sweet or sour milk ; butter the size of a walnut ; three 
eggs ; one teaspoonful of salt and one of soda sifted with 
one pint of flour. 

Stir rice and milk together ; add the beaten yolks ; then 
the flour, and last the whites beaten stiff. By adding a 
small cup more of milk, rice pancakes can be made. 
Boiled oatmeal or wheaten grits may be substituted for 
the rice. 

Breakfast Puffs or Pop-Overs. 

One pint of flour, one pint of milk, and one egg. Stir 
the milk into the flour ; beat the egg very light, and add it, 
stirring it well in. Meantime have a set of gem-pans 
well buttered, heating in the oven. Put in the dough (the 
material is enough for a dozen puffs) , and bake for half an 
hour in a veiy hot oven. This is one of the simplest but 
most delicate breakfast cakes made. Ignorant cooks o;en- 
erally spoil several batches by persisting in putting in 
baking powder or soda, as they can not believe that the 
puffs will rise without. 

Short-Cake. 

One quart of flour ; one teaspoonful of salt and two of 
baking powder sifted with the flour ; one cup of butter, oi 



218 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

half lard and half butter ; one large cup of hot milk. Rub 
the butter into the flour. Add the milk, and roll out the 
dough, cutting in small square cakes and baking to a light 
brown. 

For a strawberry or peach short-cake have three tin 
pie-plates buttered ; roll the dough to fit them, and bake 
quickly. Fill either, when done, with a quart of straw- 
berries or raspberries mashed with a cup of sugar, or 
with peaches cut fine and sugared, and served hot. 

Corn Bread. 

Two cups of com meal ; one cup of flour ; one teaspoon- 
f ul of soda and one of salt ; one heaping tablespoonful 
of butter ; a teacupful of sugar ; three eggs ; two cups of 
sour milk, the more creamy the better. If sweet milk is 
used, substitute baking powder for soda. 

Sift meal, flour, soda, and salt together ; beat the yolks 
of the eggs with the sugar ; add the milk, and stir into the 
meal ; melt the butter, and stir in, beating hard for five 
minutes. Beat the whites stiff, and sth* in, and bake at 
once either in one large, round loaf, or in tin pie-plates. 
The loaf will need half an hour or a little more ; the pie- 
plates, not over twenty minutes. 

This can be baked as muflfins, or, by adding another cup 
of milk, becomes a pancake mixture. 

Hoe-Cake. 
One quart of corn meal ; one teaspoon ful of salt ; one 
tablespoonful of melted lard ; one large cup of boiling 
water. Melt the lard in the water. Mix the salt with the 
meal, and pour on the water, stirring it into a dough. 
When cool, make either into one large oval cake or two 



BEE AD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 219 

smaller ones, and bake in the oven to a bright brown, 

which will take about half an hour ; or make in small 

cakes, and bake slowly on a griddle, browning well on 

each side. Genuine hoe-cake is baked before an open fire 

on a board. 

Buckwheat Cakes. 

Two cups of buckwheat flour ; one of wheat flour ; one 
of corn meal ; half a cup of yeast ; one teaspoonful of 
salt ; one quart of boiling water. Mix the corn meal and 
salt, and pour on the boiling water very slowly, that the 
meal may swell. As soon as merely warm, stir in the 
sifted flour and yeast. All buckwheat may be used, in- 
stead of part wheat flour. Beat well, cover, and put in a 
cool place, — about 60°. In the morning stir well, and 
add half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm 
water. Grease the griddle with a bit of salt pork on a 
fork, or a very little drippings rubbed over it evenly, but 
never have it floating with fat, as many cooks do. Drop 
in large spoonfuls, and bake and serve few at a time^ or 
they will become heavy and unfit to eat. If a cupful of 
the batter is saved, no yeast need be used for the next 
baking, and in cold weather this can be done for a month. 

Huckleberry Cake. 

One quart of flour ; one teaspoonful of salt and two of 
baking powder sifted with the flour ; one pint of huckle- 
berries ; half a cup of butter ; two eggs ; two cups of 
sweet milk ; two cups of sugar. 

Cream the butter, and add the sugar and yolks of eggs ; 
stir in the milk, and add the flour slowly ; then beating 
the whites of the eggs stiff, and adding them. Have the 
huckleberries picked over, washed, dried, and well dusted 



220 BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. 

with flour. Stir them in last of all ; fill the pans three- 
quarters full, and bake in a moderate oven for about half 

an hour. 

Apple Cake. 

Make as above ; but, instead of huckleberries, use one 
pint of sour, tender apples, cut in thin slices. It is a de- 
licious breakfast or tea cake. 

Brown-Bread Brewis. 
Dry all bits of crust or bread in the oven, browning 
them nicely. To a pint of these, allow one quart of milk, 
half a cup of butter, and a teaspoonf ul of salt. Boil the 
milk ; -add the butter and salt, and then the browned 
bread, and simmer slowly for fifteen minutes, or until per- 
fectly soft. It is very nice. Bits of white bread or sea 
biscuit can be used in the same way. 

Crisped Crackers. 

Split large soft crackers, what is called the ''Boston 
cracker ' ' being best ; butter them well as for eating ; lay 
the buttered halves in baking-pans, and brown in a quick 
oven. Good at any meal. 

Sour Bread. 

If, by any mishap, bread has soured a little, make into 
water toast or brewis, adding a teaspoonf ul of soda to the 
water or milk. 

To USE Dry Bread. 

Brown in the oven every scrap that is left, seeing that 
it does not scorch. Roll while hot and crisp, and sift, 
using the fine crumbs for croquettes, &c., and the coarser 
ones for puddings and pancakes. Keep dry in glass jars ; 
or tin cans will answer. 



CAKE, 221 

Bread Pancakes. 
One cup of coarse crumbs, soaked over-night in a quart 
of warm milk, or milk and water. In the morning mash 
fine, and run through a sieve. Add three eggs well beaten, 
half a cup of floui^ a large spoonful of sugar, a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and, if liked, a little nutmeg. If the bread was 
in the least sour, add a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a 
little warm water. Bake like pancakes, but more slowly. 

To FRESHEN StALE BrEAD OR ROLLS. 

Wrap in a cloth, and steam for ten or fifteen minutes in 
a steamer. Then dry in the oven. Rolls or biscuits may 
have the top crust wet with a little melted butter, and then 
browii a minute after steaming. 



CAKE. 

Cake-Making. 

In all cake-making, 'see that every thing is ready to 
j^our hand, — pans buttered, or papered if necessary; 
flour sifted ; all spices and other materials on your work- 
ing-table ; and the fire in good order. 

No matter how plain the cake, there is a certain order 
in mixing, which, if followed, produces the best result 
from the materials used ; and this order is easily reduced 
to rules. 

First, always cream the butter ; that is, stir it till light 
and creamy. If very cold, heat the bowl a little, but 
never enough to melt, only to soften the butter. 



222 CAKE. 

Second, add the sugar to the butter, and mix thoroughly. 

Third, if eggs are used, beat yolks and whites sepa- 
rately for a delicate cake ; add yolks to sugar and butter, 
and beat together a minute. For a plain cake, beat yolks 
and whites together (a Dover egg-beater doing this better 
than any thing else can) , and add to butter and sugar. 

Fourth, if milk is used, add this. 

Fifth, stir in the measure of flour little by little, and 
beat smooth. 

Flavoring may be added at any time. If dry spices 
are used, mix them with the sugar. Always sift baking 
powder with the flour. If soda and cream of tartar are 
used, sift the cream of tartar with the flour, and dissolve 
the soda in a little milk or warm water. For very delicate 
cakes, powdered sugar is best. For gingerbreads and 
small cakes or cookies, light brown answers. 

Where fruit cake is to be made, raisins should be stoned 
and chopped, and currants washed and dried, the day 
beforehand. A cup of currants being a nice and inex- 
pensive addition to buns or any plain cake, it is well to 
prepare several pounds at once, drying thoroughly, and 
keeping in glass jars. Being the very dirtiest article 
known to the storeroom, currants require at least three 
washings in warm water, rubbing them well in the hands. 
Then spread them out on a towel, and proceed to pick out 
all the sticks, grit, small stones, and legs and wings to be 
found ; then put the fruit into a slow oven, and dry it 
carefully, that none may scorch. 

In baking, a moderate oven is one in which a teaspoon- 
ful of flour will brown while you count thirty ; a quick 
one, where but twelve can be counted. 

The ''cup" used in all these receipts is the ordinary 



CAKE. 223 

kitchen cup, holding half a pint. The measures of flour 
are, in all cases, of sifted flour ^ which can be sifted by the 
quantity, and kept in a wooden pail. '' Prepared flour" 
is especially nice for doughnuts and plain cakes. No 
great variety of receipts is given, as every family is sure 
to have one enthusiastic cake-maker who gleans from all 
sources ; and this book aims to give fuller space to sub- 
stantials than to sweets. Half the energy spent by many 
housekeepers upon cake would insure the perfect bread, 
which, nine times out of ten, is not found upon their 
tables, and success in which they count an impossibility. 
If cake is to be made, however, let it be done in the 
most perfect way ; seeing only that bread is first irre- 
proachable. 

Sponge Cake. 

One pound of the finest granulated, or of powdered, 
sugar ; half a pound of sifted flour ; ten eggs ; grated 
rind of two lemons, and the juice of one ; and a saltspoon- 
ful of salt. 

Break the eggs, yolks and whites separately, and beat 
the yolks to a creamy froth. Beat the whites till they 
can be turned upside down without spilling. Put yolks 
and whites together, and beat till blended ; then add the 
sugar slowly ; then the lemon rind and juice and the 
salt, and last the flour. Whisk together as lightly and 
quickly as possible. Turn into either three buttered 
bread-pans of the size given on p. 201, or bake in a large 
loaf, as preferred. Fill the pans two- thirds full, and, 
when in the oven, do not open it for ten minutes. Bake 
about half an hour, and test by running a clean broom- 
straw into the loaf. If it comes out dry, they are done. 
Turn out, and cool on a sieve, or on the pans turned up- 
side down. 



224 CAKE. 

Rolled Jelly Cake. 

Three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately ; one 
heaped cup of sugar ; one scant cup of flour in which a 
teaspoonful of baking powder and a pinch of salt have 
been sifted ; quarter of a cup of boiling water. 

Mix as in sponge cake ; add the water last, and bake in 
a large roasting-pan, spreading the batter as thinly as pos- 
sible. It will bake in ten minutes. When done, and while 
still hot, spread with any acid jelly, and roll carefully from 
one side. This cake is nice for lining Charlotte-Russe 
molds also. For that purpose the water may be omitted, 
its only use being to make the cake roll more easily. 

Cup Cake. 

One cup of butter ; two cups of sugar ; four eggs, yolks 
and whites beaten separately ; one cup of milk ; three and 
a half cups of flour ; a grated nutrueg, or a teaspoonful 
of vanilla or lemon ; and a heaping teaspoonful of baking 
powder. 

Cream the butter ; add the sugar, and then the yolks ; 
then the milk and the whites, and last the flour, in which 
the baking powder has been sifted. Bake half an hour, 
either in two brick loaves or one large one. It is nice, 
also, baked in little tins. Half may be flavored with es- 
sence, and the other half with a teaspoonful of mixed 
spice, — half cinnamon, and the rest mace and allspice. 
By using a heaping tablespoonful of yellow ginger, this 
becomes a delicious sugar gingerbread, or, with mixed 
spices and ginger, a spice gingerbread. 

This cake with the variations upon it makes up page 
after page in the large cook-books. Use but half a cup 
of butter, and you have a plain Ciq) Cake, Add a cup of 



CAKE, 225 

currants and one of chopped raisins, and it is plain Fndt 
Gake^ needing to bake one hour. Bake on Washington-pie 
tins, and you have the foundation for Cream and Jelly 
Cakes, A little experience, and then invention, will show 
you how varied are the combinations, and how one page 
in your cook-book can do duty for twenty. 

Pound Cake. 

One pound of sugar ; one pound of flour ; three-quarters 
of a pound of butter ; nine eggs ; one teaspoonf ul of 
baking powder, and one of lemon extract ; one nutmeg 
grated. 

Cream the butter, and add half the flour, sifting the 
baking powder with the other half. Beat the yolks to a 
creamy foam, and add ; and then the sugar, beating hard. 
Have the whites a stiff froth, and stir in, adding flavoring 
and remainder of flour. Bake in one large loaf for one 
hour, letting the oven be moderate. Frost, if liked. 

Fruit Cake. 

One pound of butter ; one pound of sugar ; one pound 
and a quarter of sifted flour ; ten eggs ; two nutmegs 
grated ; a tablespoonful each of ground cloves, cinnamon, 
and allspice ; a teaspoonful of soda ; a cup of brandy or 
wine, and one of dark molasses ; one pound of citron ; 
two pounds of stoned and chopped raisins, and two of cur- 
rants washed and dried. 

Dredge the prepared fruit with enough of the flour to 
coat it thoroughly. To have the cake very dark and rich 
looking, brown the flour a little, taking great care not to 
scorch it. Cream the butter, and add the sugar, in which 
the spices have been mixed ; then the beaten yolks of 

15 



226 CAKE. 

eggs ; then the whites beaten to a stiff froth, and the 

flour. Dissolve the soda in a very little warm water, and 

add. Now stir in the fruit. Have either one large, round 

pan, or two smaller ones. Put at least three thicknesses 

of buttered letter-paper on the sides and bottom ; turn 

in the mixture, and bake for three hours in a moderate 

oven. Cover with thick paper if there is the least danger 

of scorching. This will keep, if well frosted, for two 

j^ears. 

Dover Cake. 

One pound of flour ; one pound of sugar ; half a pound 
of butter ; one teacup of milk ; six eggs ; one teaspoonful 
of baking powder ; one grated nutmeg. 

Cream the butter ; add first sugar, then beaten yolks of 
eggs and milk, then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
and last the flour. Bake forty-five minutes in a large 
dripping-pan, sifting fine sugar over the top, and cut in 
small squares ; or it may be baked in one round loaf, and 
frosted on the bottom, or in small tins. Half a pound of 
citron cut fine is often added. 

White or Silver Cake. 

Half a cup of butter ; a heaping cupful of powdered 
sugar ; two cups of flour, with a teaspoonful of baking 
powder sifted in ; half a cup of milk ; whites of six eggs ; 
one teaspoonful of almond extract. 

Cream the butter, and add the flour, beating till it is a 
smooth paste. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add 
the sugar and essence. Now mix both quickly, and bake 
in a sheet about an inch and a half thick. About half an 
hour will be needed. Frost while hot, with one white of 
egg^ beaten ten minutes with a small cup of sifted pow- 



CAKE. 227 

dered sugar, and juice of half a lemon. This frosting 
hardens very quickly. Before it is quite hard, divide it 
into oblong or square pieces, scoring at intervals with the 
back of a large knife. The milk can be omitted if a 
richer cake is wanted. It may also be baked in jelly- cake 
tins ; one small cocoanut grated, and mixed with one cup 
of sugar, and spread between, and the whole frosted. Or 
beat the white of an egg with one cup of sugar, and the 
juice of one large or two small oranges, and spread be- 
tween. Either form is delicious. 

Gold Cake. 

One cup of sugar ; half a cup of butter ; two cups of 
flour ; yolks of six eggs ; grated rind and juice of a 
lemon or orange ; half a teaspoonful of soda, mixed with 
the flour, and sifted twice. 

Cream the butter ; add the sugar, then the beaten 
yolks and the flour, beating hard for several minutes. 
Last, add the lemon or orange juice, and bake like silver 
cake ; frosting, if liked. If frosting is made for either or 
both cakes, the extra yolks may be used in making this 
one, eight being still nicer than six. 

Bread Cake. 

Two cups or a pint-bowlful of raised dough ready for 
baking ; one cup of butter ; two cups of sugar ; one tea- 
spoonful of ground cinnamon, or half a nutmeg grated ; 
three eggs ; one teaspoonful of soda in quarter of a cup 
of warm water, and half a cup of flour. 

Cream the butter, and add the sugar. Then put in the 
bread dough, and work together till well mixed. The 
hand is best for this, though it cau be done with a wooden 



228 CAKE, 

spoon. Add the eggs, then the flour, and last the soda. 
Let it stand in a warm place for one hour, and bake in a 
moderate oven forty-five minutes, testing with a broom- 
straw. A pound of stoned and chopped raisins is a nice 
addition. Omitting them, and adding flour enough to roll 
out, makes an excellent raised doughnut or bun. Let it 
rise two hours ; then cut in shapes, and fry in boiling lard. 
Or, for buns, bake in a quick oven, and, a minute before 
taking out, brush the top with a spoonful of sugar and 
milk mixed together. 

Plain Buns. 

One pint-bowlful of dough ; one cup of sugar ; butter 
the size of an Qg^ ; one teaspoonful of cinnamon. 

Eoll the dough thin. Spread the butter upon it. Mix 
sugar and cinnamon together, and sprinkle on it. Now 
turn over the edges of the dough carefully to keep the 
sugar m, and press and work gently for a few minutes^ 
that it may not break through. Knead till thoroughly 
mixed. Eoll out ; cut like biscuit, and let them rise an 
hour, baking in a quick oven. 

The same rule can be used for raised doughnuts. 

Doughnuts. 

First put on the lard, and let it be heating gradually. 
To test it when hot, drop in a bit of bread ; if it browns 
as you count twenty, it is right. Never let it boil furi- 
ously, or scorch. This is the rule for all frying, whether 
fritters, croquettes, or cakes. 

One quart of flour into which has been sifted a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and one of soda if sour milk is used, or two 
of baking powder if sweet milk. If cream can be had, 



CAKE. 229 

use part cream, allowing one large cup of milk, or cream 
and milk. One heaping cup of fine brown sugar ; one 
teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, and half a one of 
mace or nutmeg ; use one spoonful of butter, if you 
have no cream, stirring it into the sugar. Add two or 
three beaten eggs ; mixing all as in general directions for 
cake. They can be made without eggs. Roll out ; cut in 
shapes, and fry brown, taking them out with a fork into a 
sieve set over a pan that all fat may drain off. 

Cut thin, and baked brown in a quick oven, these make 
a good plain cooky. 

Ginger Snaps. 

One cup of butter and lard or dripping mixed, or 
dripping alone can be used ; one cup of molasses ; one 
cup of brown sugar ; two teaspoonfuls of ginger, and one 
each of clove, allspice, and mace ; one teaspoonful of salt, 
and one of soda dissolved in half a cup of hot water ; one 

Stir together the shortening, sugar, molasses, and spice. 
Add the soda, and then sifted flour enough to make a 
dough, — about three pints. Turn on to the board, and 
knead well. Take about quarter of it, and roll out thin as 
a knife-blade. Bake in a quick oven. They will bake in 
five minutes, and will keep for months. By using only 
four cups of flour, this can be baked in a loaf as spiced 
gingerbread ; or it can be rolled half an inch thick, and 
baked as a cooky. In this, as in all cakes, experience 
will teach you many variations. 

Plain Gingerbread. 

Two cups of molasses ; one of sour milk ; half a cup 
of lard or drippings ; foui' cups of flour ; two teaspoonfuls 



230 CAKE, 

of ginger, and one of cinnamon ; half a teaspoonful of 
salt ; one egg,, and a teaspoonful of soda. 

Mix molasses and shortening ; add the spice and egg^ 
then the milk, and last the flour, with soda sifted in it. 
Bake at once in a sheet about an inch thick for half an 
hour. Try with a broom-straw. Good hot for lunch with 
chocolate. A plain cooky is made by adding flour enough 
to roll out. The egg may be omitted. 

Jumbles. 

The richest jumbles are made from either the rule for 
Found or Dover Cake, with flour enough added to roll out. 
The Cup- Cake rule makes good but plainer ones. Make 
rings, either by cutting in long strips and joining the ends, 
or by using a large and small cutter. Sift sugar over the 
top, and bake a delicate brown. By adding a large spoon- 
ful of yellow ginger, any of these rules become hard 
sugar-gingerbread, and all will keep for a long time. 

Drop Cakes. 

Any of the rules last mentioned become drop cakes by 
buttering muffin- tins or tin sheets, and dropping a tea- 
spoonful of these mixtures into them. If on sheets, let 
them be two inches apart. Sift sugar over the top, and 
bake in a quick oven. They are done as soon as brown. 

Cream Cakes. 
One pint of boiling water in a saucepan. Melt in it a 
piece of butter the size of an egg. Add half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt. AYhile still boiling, stir in one large cup of 
flour, and cook for three minutes. Take from the fire ; 
cool ten minutes ; then break in, one by one, six eggs, 



CAKE. 231. 

and beat till smooth. Have muffin-pans buttered, or 
large baking-sheets. Drop a spoonful of the mixture on 
them, allowing room to spread, and bake half an hour in 
a quick oven. Cool on a sieve, and, when cool, fill with a 
cream made as below. 

Filling for Cream Cakes. 

One pint of milk, one cup of sugar, two eggs, half a 
cup of flour, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. 

Mix the sugar and flour, add the beaten eggs, and beat 
all till smooth. Stir into the boiling milk with a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and boil for fifteen minutes. When cold, 
add a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon. Make a slit in 
each cake, and fill with the cream. Corn-starch may be 
used instead of flour. This makes a very nice filling for 
plain cup cake baked on jelly-cake tins. 

Meringues, or Kisses. 

Whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; quarter of 
a pound of sifted powdered sugar ; a few drops of vanilla. 

Add the sugar to the whites. Have ready a hard- wood 
board which fits the oven. Wet the top well with boiling 
water, and cover it with sheets of letter-paper. Drop the 
meringue mixture on this in large spoonfuls, and set in a 
very slow oven. The secret of a good meringue is to dry^ 
not bake ; and they should be in the oven at least half an 
hour. Take them out when dry. Slip a thin, sharp knife 
under each 'one, and put two together ; or scoop out the 
soft part very carefully, and fill with a little jelly or with 
whipped cream. 



232 PASTBY AND PIES. 



PASTRY AND PIES. 

In the first place, don't make either, except very semi- 
occasionally. Pastry, even when good, is so indigestible 
that children should never have it, and their elders but 
seldom. A nice short-cake made as on p. 209, and filled 
with stewed fruit, or with fresh berries mashed and sweet- 
ened, is quite as agreeable to eat, and far more wholesome. 
But, as people icill both make and eat pie-crust, the best 
rules known are given. 

Butter, being more wholesome than lard, should always 
be used if it can be afforded. A mixture of lard and 
butter is next best. Clarified dripping makes a good 
crust for meat pies, and cream can also be used. For 
dumplings nothing can be better than a light biscuit-crust, 
made as on p. 208. It is also good for meat pies. 

Plain Pie-Crust. 

One quart of flour ; one even teacup of lard, and one 
of butter ; one teacup of ice-water or very cold water ; 
and a teaspooonful of salt. 

Eub the lard and salt into the flour till it is dry and 
crumbly. Add the ice-water, and work to a smooth 
dough. Wash the butter, and have it cold and firm as 
possible. Divide it in three parts. Roll out the paste, 
and dot it all over with bits from one part of the butter. 
Sprinkle with flour, and roll up. Eoll out, and repeat till 
the butter is gone. If the crust can now stand on the ice 
for half an hour, it will be nicer and more flaky. This 
amount will make three good-sized pies. Enough for the 



PASTRY AND PIES, 233 

bottom crusts can be taken off after one rolling in of but- 
ter, thus making the top crust richer. Lard alone will 
make a tender, but not a flaky, paste. 

Puff Paste. 

One pound of flour ; three-quarters of a pound of but- 
ter ; one teacupful of ice-water ; one teaspoonful of salt, 
and one of sugar ; yolk of one egg. 

Wash the butter; divide into tliree parts, reserving a 
bit the size of an egg ; and put it on the ice for an hour. 
Rub the bit of butter, the salt, and sugar, into the flour, 
and stir in the ice-water and egg beaten together. Make 
into a dough, and knead on the molding-board till glossy 
and firm : at least ten minutes will be required. Roll out 
into a sheet ten or twelve inches square. Cut a cake of 
the ice-cold butter in thin slices, or flatten it very thin 
with the rolling-pin. Lay it on the paste, sprinkle with 
flour, and fold over the edges. Press it in somewhat with 
the rolling-pin, and roll out again. Always roll from you. 
Do this again and again till the butter is all used, rolling 
up the paste after the last cake is in, and then putting it 
on the ice for an hour or more. Have filling all ready, 
and let the paste be as nearly ice-cold as possible when 
it goes into the oven. There are much more elaborate 
rules ; but this insures handsome paste. Make a plainer 
one for the bottom crusts. Cover puff paste with a damp 
cloth, and it may be kept on the ice a day or two before 
baking. 

Patties from Puff Paste. 

Roll the paste about a third of an inch thick, and cut 
out with a round or oval cutter about two inches in diame- 
ter. Take a cutter half an inch smaller, and press it into 



234 PASTRY AND PIES, 

the piece already cut out, so as to sink half-way through 
the crust : this to mark out the top piece. Lay on tins, 
and bake to a delicate brown. They should treble in 
thickness by rising, and require from twenty minutes to 
half an hour to bake. When done, the marked-out top 
can easily be removed. Take out the soft inside, and fill 
with sweetmeats for dessert, or with minced chicken or 
oysters prepared as on p. 140. -^ 

Grandmother's Apple Pie. 

Line a deep pie-plate with plain paste. Pare sour 
apples, — greenings are best; quarter, and cut in thin 
slices. Allow one cup of sugar, and quarter of a grated 
nutmeg mixed with it. Fill the pie-plate heaping full of 
the sliced apple, sprinkling the sugar between the layers. 
It will require not less than six good-sized apples. Wet 
the edges of the pie with cold water ; lay on the cover, and 
press down securely, that no juice may escape. Bake 
three-quarters of an hour, or a little less if the apples are 
very tender. No pie in which the apples are stewed 
beforehand can compare with this in flavor. If they are 
used, stew till tender, and strain. Sweeten and flavor to 
taste. Fill the pies, and bake half an hour. 

Dried- Apple Pies. 

Wash one pint of dried apples, and put in a porcelain 
kettle with two quarts of warm water. Let them stand 
all night. In the morning put on the fire, and stew slowly 
for an hour. Then add one pint of sugar, a teaspoonful 
of dried lemon or orange rind, or half a fresh lemon 
sliced, and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon. Stew half 
an hour longer, and then use for filling the pies. The 



PASTBY AND PIES. 235 

apple can be strained if preferred, and a teaspoonful of 
butter added. This quantity will make two pies. Dried 
peaches are treated in the same way. 

Lemon Pies. 

Three lemons, juice of all and the grated rind of two ; 
two cups of sugar ; three cups of boiling water ; three 
tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold 
water ; three eggs ; a piece of butter the size of an egg. 

Pour the boiling water on the dissolved corn-starch, and 
boil for five minutes. Add the sugar and butter, the yolks 
of the eggs beaten to a froth, and last the lemon juice and 
rind. Line the plates with crust, putting a narrow rim of 
it around each one. Pour in the filling, and bake half an 
hour. Beat the whites to a stiff froth ; add half a teacup 
of powdered sugar and ten drops of lemon extract, and, 
when the pie is baked, spread this on. The heat will cook 
it suflfiiciently, but it can be browned a moment in the oven. 
If to be kept a day, do not make the frosting till just be- 
fore using. The whites will keep in a cold place. Orange 
pie can be made in the same way. 

SVTEET-POTATO PlE OR PuDDING. 

One pound of hot, boiled sweet potato rubbed through 
a sieve ; one cup of butter ; one heaping cup of sugar ; 
half a grated nutmeg ; one glass of brandy ; a pinch of 
salt ; six eggs. 

Add the sugar, spice, and butter to the hot potato. 
Beat whites and yolks separately, and add, and last the 
brandy. Line deep plates with nice paste, making a rim of 
puff^ paste. Fill with the mixture, and bake till the crust is 
done, — about half an hour. Wickedly rich, but very deli- 



236 PASTRY AND PIES. 

cious. Irish potatoes can be treated in the same way, and 
are more delicate. 

Squash or Pumpkin Pie. 

Prepare and steam as in directions on p. 194. Strain 
through a sieve. To a quart of the strained squash add 
one quart of new milk, with a spoonful or two of cream 
if possible ; one heaping cup of sugar into which has 
been stirred a teaspoonful of salt, a heaping one of gin- 
ger, and half a one of cinnamon. Mix this with the 
squash, and add from two to four well-beaten eggs. Bake 
in deep plates lined with plain pie- crust. They are done 
when a knife-blade on being run into the middle comes 
out clean. About forty minutes will be enough. For 
pumpkin pie half a cup of molasses may be added, and 
the eggs can be omitted, substituting half a cup of flour 
mixed with the sugar and spice before stirring in. A tea- 
spoonful of butter can also be added. 

Cherry and Berry Pies. 

Have a very deep plate, and either no under crust save 
a rim, or a very thin one. Allow a cup of sugar to a 
quart of fruit, but no spices. Stone cherries. Prick the 
upper crust half a dozen times with a fork to let out the 
steam. 

For rhubarb or pie-plant pies, peel the stalks ; cut them 
in little bits, and fill the pie. Bake with an upper crust. 

Custard Pie. 

Line and rim deep plates with pastry, a thin custard 
pie being very poor. Beat together a teacupful of sugar, 
four eggs, and a pinch of salt, and mix slowly with one 



PASTRY AND PIES. 237 

quart of milk. Fill the plate up to the pastry rim aftei^ 
it is in the oven^ and bake till the custard is firm, trying, as 
for squash pies, with a knife-blade. 

Mince-Meat for Pies. 

Two pounds of cold roast or boiled beef, or a small 
beef -tongue, boiled the day beforehand, cooled and 
chopped ; one pound of beef- suet, freed from all strings, 
and chopped fine as powder ; two pounds of raisins 
stoned and chopped ; one pound of currants washed and 
dried ; six pounds of chopped apples ; half a pound of 
citron cut in slips ; two pounds of brown sugar ; one pint 
of molasses ; one quart of boiled cider ; one pint of wine 
or brandy, or a pint of any nice sirup from sweet pickles 
may be substituted ; two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt ; 
one teaspoonful of pepper ; tliree tablespoonfuls of ground 
cinnamon ; two of allspice ; one of clove ; one of mace ; 
three grated nutmegs ; grated rind and juice of three 
lemons ; a cupful of chopped, candied orange or lemon 
peel. 

Mix spices and salt with sugar, and stir into the meat 
and suet. Add the apples, and then the cider and other 
wetting, stirring very thoroughly. Lastly, mix in the 
fruit. Fill and bake as in apple pies. This mince-meat 
will keep two months easily. If it ferments at all, put 
over the fire in a porcelain-lined kettle, and boil half an 
hour. Taste, and judge for yourselves whether more or 
less spice is needed. Butter can be used instead of suet, 
and proportions varied to taste. 

Rammekins, or Cheese Straws. 
One pound of puff paste ; one cup of good grated 



238 PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. 

cheese. Roll the paste half an inch thick ; sprinkle on 
half the cheese ; press in lightly with the rolling-pin ; roll 
up, and roll out again, using the other half of the cheese. 
Fold, and roll about a third of an inch thick. Cut in long, 
narrow strips, four or five inches long and half an inch 
wide, and bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown. Ex- 
cellent with chocolate at lunch, or for dessert with fruit. 



PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. 

For boiled puddings a regular pudding-boiler holding 
from three pints to two quarts is best, a tin pail with a 
very tight-fitting cover answering instead, though not as 
good. For large dumplings a thick pudding-cloth — the 
best being of Canton flannel, used with the nap-side out 
— should be dipped in hot water, and wrung out, dredged 
evenly and thickly with flour, and laid over a large bowl. 
From half to three-quarters of a yard square is a good 
size. In filling this, pile the fruit or berries on the rolled- 
out crust which has been laid in the middle of the cloth, 
and gather the edges of the paste evenly over it. Then 
gather the cloth up, leaving room for the dumpling to 
swell, and tying very tightly. In turning out, lift to a 
dish ; press all the water from the ends of the cloth ; untie 
and turn away from the pudding, and lay a hot dish upon 
it, turning over the pudding into it, and serving at once, 
as it darkens or falls by standing. 

In using a boiler, butter well, and fill only two-thirds 
full that the mixture may have room to swell. Set it in 



PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. 239 

boiling water, and see that it is kept at the same height, 
about an inch from the top. Cover the outer kettle that 
the steam may be kept in. Small dumplings, with a sin- 
gle apple or peach in each, can be cooked in a steamer. 
Puddings are not only much more wholesome, but less 
expensive than pies. 

Apple Dumpling. 

Make a crust, as for biscuit, or a potato-crust as fol- 
lows : Three large potatoes, boiled and mashed while hot. 
Add to them two cups of sifted flour and one teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and mix thoroughly. Now chop or cut into 
it one small cup of butter, and mix into a paste with 
about a teacupful of cold water. Dredge the board thick 
with flour, and roll out, — thick m the middle, and thin 
at the edges. Fill, as directed, with apples pared and 
quartered, eight or ten good-sized ones being enough for 
this amount of crust. Boil for three hours. Turn out as 
directed, and eat with butter and sirup or with a made 
sauce. Peaches pared and halved, or canned ones drained 
from the sirup, can be used. In this case, prepare the 
sirup for sauce, as on p. 172. Blueberries are excellent 
in the same way. 

English Plum Pudding, or Christmas Pudding. 
One pound of raisins stoned and cut in two ; one pound 
of currants washed and dried ; one pound of beef -suet 
chopped very fine ; one pound of bread-crumbs ; one pound 
of flour ; half a pound of brown sugar ; eight eggs ; one 
pint of sweet milk ; one teaspoonful of salt ; a tablespoon- 
ful of cinnamon ; two grated nutmegs ; a glass each of 
wine and brandy. 



240 PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. 

Prepare the fruit, and dredge thickly with flour. Soak 
the bread in the milk ; beat the eggs, and add. Stir in 
the rest of the flour, the suet, and last the fruit. Boil six 
hours either in a cloth or large mold. Half the amounts 
given makes a good-sized pudding ; but, as it will keep 
three months, it might be boiled in two molds. Serve 
with a rich sauce. 

Any-Day Plum Pudding. 

One cup of sweet milk ; one cup of molasses ; one cup 
each of raisins and currants ; one cup of suet chopped 
fine, or, instead, a small cup of butter ; one teaspoonful of 
salt, and one of soda, sifted with three cups of flour ; one 
teaspoonful each of cinnamon and allspice. 

Mix milk, molasses, suet, and spice ; add flour, and 
then the fruit. Put in a buttered mold, and boil three 
hours. Eat with hard or liquid sauce. A cupful each of 
prunes and dates or figs can be substituted for the fruit, 
and is very nice ; and the same amount of dried apple, 
measured after soaking and chopping, is also good. Or 
the fruit can be omitted altogether, in which case it be- 
comes " Troy Pudding." 

Batter Pudding, Boiled or Baked. 

Two cups of flour in which is sifted a heaping teaspoon- 
ful of baking powder, two cups of sweet milk, four eggs, 
one teaspoonful of salt. Stir the flour gradually into the 
milk, and beat hard for five minutes. Beat yolks and 
whites separately, and then add to batter. Have the 
pudding-boiler buttered. Pour in the batter, and boil 
steadily for two hours. It may also be baked an hour in 
a buttered pudding-dish. Serve at once, when done, w^th 
a liquid sauce. 



PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED, 241 

Sunderland Puddings. 

Are merely puffs or pop-overs eaten with sauce. See 

p. 209. 

Bread Pudding. 

One cup of dried and rolled bread-crumbs, or one pint 
of fresh ones ; one quart of milk ; two eggs ; one cup of 
sugar ; half a teaspoonful of cinnamon ; a little grated 
nutmeg ; a saltspoonful of salt. 

Soak the crumbs in the milk for an hour or two ; mix 
the spice and salt with the sugar, and beat the eggs with 
it, stirring them slowly into the milk. Butter a pudding- 
dish ; pour in the mixture ; and bake half an hour, or till 
done. Try with a knife-blade, as in general directions. 
The whites may be kept out for a meringue, allowing half 
a teacup of powdered sugar to them. By using fresh 
bread-crumbs and four eggs, this becomes what is known 
as ''Queen of Puddings." As soon as done, spread the 
top with half a cup of any acid jelly, and cover with the 
whites which have been beaten stiff, with a teacupful of 
sugar. Brown slightly in the oven. Half a pound of 
raisins may be added. 

Bread-and-Butter Pudding. 
Fill a pudding-dish two-thirds full with very thin slices 
of bread and butter. A cupful of currants or dried cher- 
ries may be sprinkled between the slices. Make a custard 
of two eggs beaten with a cup of sugar ; add a quart of 
milk, and pour over the bread. Cover with a plate, and 
set on the back of the stove an hour ; then bake from half 
to three-quarters of an houi\ Serve very hot, as it falls 
when cool. 

16 



242 PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. 

Bread- AND -Apple Pudding. 
Butter a deep pudding-dish, and put first a layer of 
crumbs, then one of any good acid apple, sliced rather thin, 
and so on till the dish is nearly full. Six or eight apples 
and a quart of fresh crumbs will fill a two-quart dish. 
Dissolve a cup of sugar and one teaspoonful of cinnamon 
in one pint of boiling water, and pour into the dish. Let 
the pudding stand half an hour to swell ; then bake till 
brown, — about three-quarters of an hour, — and eat with 
liquid sauce. It can be made with slices of bread and 
butter, instead of crumbs. 

Bird's-Nest Pudding. 

Wash one teacupful of tapioca, and put it in one quart 
of cold water to soak for several hours. Pare and core as 
many good apples as will fit in a two-quart buttered pud- 
ding-dish. When the tapioca is softened, add a cupful of 
sugar, a pinch of salt, and half a teaspoonful of cinna- 
mon, and pour over the apples. Bake an hour, and eat 
with or without sauce. 

Tapioca Pudding. 

One quart of milk ; one teacupful of tapioca ; three eggs ; 
a cup of sugar ; a teaspoonful of salt ; a tablespoonful of 
butter ; a teaspoonful of lemon extract. 

Wash the tapioca, and soak in the milk for two hours, 
setting it on the back of the stove to swell. Beat eggs 
and sugar together, reserving whites for a meringue if 
liked ; melt the butter, and add, and stir into the milk. 
Bake half an hour. Sago pudding is made in the same 
way. 



PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED, 243 

Tapioca Cream. 

One teaciipful of tapioca washed and soaked over-night 
in one pint of warm water. Next morning add a quart 
of milk and a teaspoonful of salt, and boil in a milk- 
boiler for two hours. Just before taking it from the fire, 
add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of vanilla, 
and three eggs beaten with a cup of sugar. The whites 
may be made in a meringue. Pour into a glass dish which 
has had warm water standing in it, to prevent cracking, 
*and eat cold. Rice or sago cream is made in the same 

way. 

Plain Rice Pudding. 

One cup of rice ; three pints of milk ; one heaping cup 
of sugar ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Wash the rice well. Butter a two-quart pudding-dish, 

and stir rice, sugar, and salt together. Pour on the milk. 

Grate nutmeg over it, and bake for three hours. Very 

good. 

Minute Pudding. 

One quart of milk ; one pint of flour ; two eggs ; one 
teaspoonful of salt. 

Boil the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs, and 

add the flour slowly, with enough of the milk to make it 

smooth. Stir into the boiling milk, and cook it half an 

hour. Eat with liquid sauce or sirup. It is often made 

without eggs. 

Corn-Starch Pudding. 

One quart of milk ; four tablespoon fuls of corn-starch ; 
one cup of sugar ; three eggs ; a teaspoonful each of 
salt and vanilla. 

Boil the milk ; dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold 
milk, and add. Cook five minutes, and add the eggs and 



244 PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. 

flavoring beaten with the sugar. Turn into a buttered 
dish, and bake fifteen minutes, covering then with a me- 
ringue made of the whites, or cool in molds, in this case 
using only the whites of the eggs. The yolks can be 
made in a custard to pour around them. A cup of grated 
cocoanut can be added, or two teaspoonfuls of chocolate 
stirred smooth in a little boiling water. 

Gelatine Pudding. 

Four eggs ; one pint of milk ; one cup of sugar ; a sali- 
spoonful of salt ; a teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla ; a 
third of a box of gelatine. 

Soak the gelatine a few minutes in a little cold water, 
and then dissolve it in three-quarters of a cup of boiling 
water. Have ready a custard made from the milk and 
yolks of the eggs. Beat the yolks and sugar together, 
and stir into the boiling milk. When cold, add the gela- 
tine water and the whites of the eggs beaten very stiff. 
Pour into molds. It is both pretty and good. 

Cabinet Pudding. 

One quart of milk ; half a package of gelatine ; a tea- 
spoonful each of salt and vanilla ; a cup of sugar. 

Boil the milk ; soak the gelatine fifteen minutes in a 
little cold water ; dissolve in the boiling milk, and add the 
sugar and salt. Now butter a Charlotte-Russe mold 
thickly. Cut slips of citron into leaves or pretty shapes, 
and stick on the mold. Fill it lightly with any light cake, 
either plain or rich. Strain on the gelatine and milk, and 
set in a cold place. Turn out before serving. Delicate 
crackers may be used instead of cake. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. 245 

Corn-Meal or Indian Pudding. 

One quart of milk ; one cup of sifted corn meal ; one 
cup of molasses (not " sirup ") ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Stir meal, salt, and molasses together. Boil the milk, 
and add slowly. Butter a pudding-dish, and pour in the 
mixture ; adding, after it is set in the oven, one cup of cold 
milk poured over the top. Bake three hours in a moder- 
ate oven. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. 

Baked Custard. 

One quart of milk ; four eggs ; one teacup of sugar ; 
half a teaspoonful of salt ; nutmeg. 

Boil the milk. Beat the eggs very light, and add the 
sugar and salt. Pour on the milk very slowly, stirring 
constantly. Bake in a pudding-dish or in cups. If in 
cups, set them in a baking-pan, and half fill it with boiling 
water. Grate nutmeg over each. The secret of a good 
custard is in slow baking and the most careful watching. 
Test often with a knife-blade, and do not bake an instant 
after the blade comes out smooth and clean. To be eaten 
cold. Six eggs are generally used ; but four are plenty. 

Boiled Custard. 

One quart of milk ; three or four eggs ; one cup of 
sugar ; one teaspoonful of vanilla ; half a teaspoonful of 
salt ; one teaspoonful of corn-starch. 

Boil the milk. Dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold 
water, and boil in the milk five minutes. It prevents the 



246 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. 

custard from curdling, which otherwise it is very apt to do. 
Beat the eggs and sugar well together, stir into the milk, 
and add the salt and flavoring. Take at once from the 
fire, and, when cool, pour either into a large glass dish, 
covering with a meringue of the whites, or into small 
glasses with a little jelly or jam at the bottom of each. 
Or the whites can be used in making an apple-float, as 
below, and the yolks for the custard. 

For Cocoamit Custard add a cup of grated cocoanut ; 
for Chocolate^ two tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate 
dissolved in half a cup of boiling water. 

Tipsy Pudding. 

Make a boiled custard as directed. Half fill a deep 
dish with any light, stale cake. Add to a teacup of wine 
a teacup of boiling water, and pour over it. Add the cus- 
tard just before serving. 

Apple Float. 

Six good, acid apples stewed and strained. When 

cold, add a teacupful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of 

vanilla, and the beaten whites of three or four eggs. 

Serve at once. 

Blancmange. 

One quart of milk ; one cup of sugar ; half a package 
of gelatine ; half a teaspoonful of salt ; a teaspoonful of 
any essence liked. 

Soak the gelatine ten minutes in half a cup of cold 
water. Boil the milk, and add gelatine and the other 
ingredients. Strain into molds, and let it stand in a cold 
place all night to harden. For chocolate blancmange add 
two tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate dissolved in a 
little boilins: water. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC, 247 

Spanish Cream. 

Make a blancmange as on p. 238 ; but, just before 
taking from the fire, add the yolks of four eggs, and then 
strain. The whites can be used for meringues. 

Whipped Cream. 

One pint of rich cream ; one cup of sugar ; one glass 
of sherry or Madeira. 

Mix all, and put on the ice an hour, as cream whips 
much better when chilled. Using a whip-churn enables it 
to be done in a few minutes ; but a fork or egg-beater will 
answer. Skim off all the froth as it rises, and lay on a 
sieve to drain, returning the cream which drips away to 
be whipped over again. Set on the ice a short time before 
serving. 

Charlotte Russe. 

Make a sponge cake as on p. 216, and line a Charlotte 
mold with it, cutting a piece the size of the bottom, and 
fitting the rest around the sides. Fill with cream whipped 
as above, and let it stand on the ice to set a little. This 
is the easiest form of Charlotte. It is improved by the 
beaten whites of three eggs stirred into the cream. Flavor 
with half a teaspoonful of vanilla if liked. 

Bavarian Cream. 

Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth. Boil a pint of 
rich milk with a teacupful of sugar, and add a teaspoonful 
of vanilla. Soak half a box of gelatine for an hour in 
half a cup of warm water, and add to the milk. Add 
the yolks of four eggs beaten smooth, and take from the 
fire instantly. 

When cold and just beginning to thicken, stir in the 



248 CUSTABDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. 

whipped cream. Put in molds, and set in a cold place. 
This can be used also for filling Charlotte Eusse. For 
chocolate add chocolate as directed in rule for boiled cus- 
tard ; for coffee, one teacup of clear, strong coffee. 

Strawberry Cream, 

Three pints of strawberries mashed fine. Strain the 

juice, and add a heaping cup of sugar, and then gelatine 

soaked as above, and dissolved in a teacup of boiling 

water. Add the pint of whipped cream, and pour into 

molds. 

Fruit Creams. 

Half a pint of peach or pine-apple marmalade stirred 
smooth with a teacupful of sweet cream. Add gelatine 
dissolved as in rule for strawberry cream, and, when cold, 
the pint of whipped cream. These creams are very deli- 
cious, and not as expensive as rich pastry. 

Omelette Soufflee. 

Six whites and three yolks of eggs ; three tablespoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar sifted ; a few drops of lemon or 
vanilla. Beat the yolks, flavoring, and sugar to a light 
cream ; beat the whites to the stiffest froth. Have the 
yolks in a deep bowl. Turn the whites on to them, and 
do not stir, but mix, by cutting down through the middle, 
and gradually mixing white and yellow. Turn on to a 
tin or earthen baking-dish with high sides, and bake in 
a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes. It will rise 
very high, and must be served the instant it is done, to 
avoid its fallins:. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. 249 

Fried Cream. 

One pint of milk ; half a cup of sugar ; yolks of three 
eggs ; two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and one of flour 
mixed ; half a teaspoonful of vanilla, and two inches of 
stick-cinnamon ; a teaspoonful of butter. 

Boil the cinnamon in the milk. Stir the corn-starch 
and flour smooth in a little cold milk or water, and add to 
the milk. Beat the yolks light with the sugar, and add. 
Take from the fire ; take out the cinnamon, and stir in the 
butter and vanilla, and pour out on a buttered tin or dish, 
letting it be about half an inch thick. When cold and 
stiff, cut into pieces about three inches long and two wide. 
Dip carefully in sifted cracker-crumbs ; then in a beaten 
egg^ and in crumbs again, and fry like croquettes. Dry 
in the oven four or five minutes, and serve at once. Very 
delicious. 

Peach Fritters. 

Make a batter as on p. 208. Take the fruit from a 
small can of peaches, lay it on a plate, and sprinkle with 
a spoonful of sugar and a glass of wine. Let it lie an 
horn-, turning it once. Dip each piece in batter, and drop 
in boiling lard, or chop and mix with batter. Prepare the 
juice for a sauce as on p. 172. Fresh peaches or slices 
of tender apple can be used in the same way. Drain 
on brown paper, and sift sugar over them, before they 
go to table. 

Freezing of Ice Cream and Ices. 

With a patent freezer ice cream and ices can be pre- 
pared with less trouble than puff paste. The essential 
points are the use of rock-salt, and pounding the ice into 
small bits. Set the freezer in the centre of the tub. Put 



250 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. 

a layer of ice three inches deep, then of salt, and so on 
till the tub is full, ending with ice. Put in the cream, and 
turn for ten minutes, or till you can not turn the beater. 
Then take off the cover, scrape down the sides, and beat 
like cake for at least five minutes. Pack the tub again, 
having let off all water ; cover with a piece of old carpet. 
If molds are used, fill as soon as the cream is frozen ; 
pack them full of it, and lay in ice and salt. When ready 
to turn out, dip in warm water a moment. Handle gently, 
and serve at once. 

Ice Cream of Cream. 

To a gallon of sweet cream add two and a quarter 

pounds of sugar, and four tablespoonfuls of vanilla or 

other extract, as freezing destroys flavors. Freeze as 

directed. 

Ice Cream with Eggs. 

Boil two quarts of rich milk, and add to it, when boiling, 
four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch wet with a cup of cold 
milk. Boil for ten minutes, stirring often. Beat twelve 
eggs to a creamy froth with a heaping quart of sugar, and 
stir in, taking from the fire as soon as it boils. When 
cold, add three tablespoonfuls of vanilla or lemon, and 
two quarts either of cream or very rich milk, and freeze. 
For strawberry or raspberry cream allow the juice of one 
quart of berries to a gallon of cream. For chocolate 
cream grate half a pound of chocolate ; melt it with one 
pint of sugar and a little water, and add to above rule. 

Water Ices. 
Are simply fruit juices and water made very sweet, with 
a few whites of eggs whipped stiff, and added. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC, 251 

For lemon ice take two quarts of water, one quart of 
sugar, and the juice of seven lemons. Mix and add, after 
it has begun to freeze, the stiffly-beaten whites of four 
eggs. Orange ice is made in the same way. 

Wine Jelly. 

One box of gelatine ; one cup of wine ; three lemons, 
juice and rind ; a small stick of cinnamon ; one quart of 
boiling water ; one pint of white sugar. 

Soak the gelatine in one cup of cold water half an hour. 
Boil the cinnamon in the quart of water for five minutes, 
and then add the yellow rind of the lemons cut very thin, 
and boil a minute. Take out cinnamon and rinds, and 
add sugar, wine, and gelatine. Strain at once through a 
fine strainer into molds, and, when cold, set on the ice to 
harden. To turn out, dip for a moment in hot water. A 
pint of wine is used, if liked very strong. 

Lemon Jelly. 

Omit the wine, but make as above in other respects, 
using five lemons. Oranges are nice also. The juice may 
be used as in lemon jelly, or the little sections may be 
peeled as carefully as possible of all the white skin. Pour 
a little lemon jelly in a mold, and let it harden. Then 
fill with four oranges prepared in this way, and pour in 
liquid jelly to cover them. Candied fruit may be used in- 
stead. The jelly reserved to add to the mold can be kept 
in a warm place till the other has hardened. Fresh straw- 
berries or raspberries, or cut-up peaches, can be used in- 
stead of oranges. 



252 CANNING AND PRESERVING, 



CANNING AND PRESERVING. 

Canning is so simple an operation that it is unfortunate 
that most people consider it difficult. The directions gen- 
erally given are so troublesome that one can not wonder it 
is not attempted oftener ; but it need be hardly more care 
than the making of apple sauce, which, by the way, can 
always be made while apples are plenty, and canned for 
spring use. In an experience of years, not more than one 
can in a hundred has ever been lost, and fruit put up at 
home is far nicer than any from factories. 

In canning, see first that the jars are clean, the rubbers 
whole and in perfect order, and the tops clean and ready 
to screw on. Fill the jars with hot (not boiling) water half 
an hour before using, and have them ready on a table 
sufficiently large to hold the preserving-kettle, a dish-pan 
quarter full of hot water, and the cans. Have ready, also, 
a deep plate, large enough to hold two cans ; a silver 
spoon ; an earthen cup with handle ; and, if possible, a can- 
filler, — that is, a small tin in strainer-shape, but without 
the bottom, and fitting about the top. The utmost speed 
is needed in filling and screwing down tops, and for this 
reason every thing must he ready beforehand. 

In filling the can let the fruit come to the top ; then 
run the spoon-handle down on all sides to let out the air ; 
pour in juice till it runs over freely, and screw the top 
down at once, using a towel to protect the hand. Set at 
once in a dish-pan of water, as this prevents the table 
being stained by juice, and also its hardening on the hot 
can. Proceed in this way till all are full ; wipe them dry ; 



CANNING AND PRESERVING, 253 

and, when cold, give the tops an additional screw, as the 
glass contracts in cooling, and loosens them. Label them, 
and keep in a dark, cool closet. When the fruit is used, 
wash the jar, and dry carefully at the back of the stove. 
Wash the rubber also, and dry on a towel, putting it in 
the jar when dry, and screwing on the top. They are 
then ready for next year's use. Mason's cans are de- 
cidedly the best for general use. 

General Rules for Canning. 

For all small fruits allow one-third of a pound of sugar 
to a pound of fruit. Make it into a sirup with a teacup 
of water to each pound, and skim carefully. Throw in the 
fruit, and boil ten minutes, canning as directed. Rasp- 
berries and blackberries are best ; huckleberries are excel- 
lent for pies, and easily canned. Pie-plant can be stewed 
till tender. It requires half a pound of sugar to a pound 
of fruit. 

For peaches, gages, &c., allow the same amount of 
sugar as for raspberries. Pare peaches, and can whole or 
in halves as preferred. Prick plums and gages with a 
large darning-needle to prevent their bursting. In can- 
ning pears, pare and drop at once, into cold water, as this 
prevents their turning dark. 

Always use a porcelain-lined kettle, and stir either with 
a silver or a wooden spoon, — never an iron one. Currants 
are nice mixed with an equal weight of raspberries, and 
all fruit is more wholesome canned than in preserves. 

To CAN Tomatoes. 

Unless very plenty, it is cheaper to buy these in the tins. 
Pour on boiling water to help in removing the skins ; fill 



254 CANNING AND PRESERVING. 

the preserving kettle, but add no water. Boil them five 
minutes, and then can. Do not season till ready to use 
them for the table. Okra and tomatoes may be scalded 
together in equal parts, and canned for soups. 

Preserves. 

Preserves are scarcely needed if canning is nicely done. 
They require much more trouble, and are too rich for 
ordinary use, a pound of sugar to one of fruit being re- 
quired. If made at all, the fruit must be very fresh, 
and the sirup perfectly clear. For sirup allow one teacup 
of cold water to every pound of sugar, and, as it heats, 
add to every three or four pounds the white of an egg. 
Skim very carefully, boiling till no more rises, and it is 
ready for use. Peaches, pears, green gages, cherries, and 
crab-apples are all preserved alike. Peel, stone, and halve 
peaches, and boil only a few pieces at a time till clear. 
Peel, core, and halve pears. Prick plums and gages sev- 
eral times. Core crab-apples, and cut half the stem from 
cherries. Cook till tender. Put up when cold in small 
jars, and paste paper over them. 

Jams. 

Make sirup as directed above. Use raspberries, straw- 
berries, or any small fruit, and boil for half an hour. Put 
up in small jars or tumblers ; lay papers dipped in brandy 
on the fruit, and paste on covers, or use patent jelly- 
glasses. 

Marmalade. 

Quinces make the best ; but crab- apples or any sour 
apple are also good. Poor quinces, unfit for other use, 
can be washed and cut in small pieces, coring, but not 
paring them. Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar 



CANNING AND PRESERVING. 255 

and a teacupful of water to a pound of fruit, and boil 
slowly two hours, stirring and mashing it fine. Strain 
through a colander, and put up in glasses or bowls. Peach 
marmalade is made in the same way. 

Currant Jelly. 

The fruit must be picked when just ripened, as when 
too old it will not form jell}'. Look over, and then put 
stems and all in a porcelain-lined kettle. Crush a little of 
the fruit to form juice, but add no water. As it heats, 
jam with a potato-masher ; and when hot through, strain 
through a jelly-bag. Let all run off that will, before 
squeezing the bag. It will be a little clearer than the 
squeezed juice. To every pint of this juice add one 
pound of best white sugar, taking care that it has not a 
blue tinge. Jelly from bluish-white sugars does not harden 
well. Boil the juice twenty-five minutes ; add the sugar, 
and boil for five more. Put up in glasses. 

Orange Marmalade. 

This recipe, taken from the '-' New York Evening Post," 
has been thoroughly tested b}^ the author, and found 
delicious. 

^' A recipe for orange marmalade that I think will be 
entirely new to most housewives, and that I know is deli- 
cious, comes from an English housekeeper. It is a sweet 
that is choice and very healthful. If made now, w^hen 
oranges and lemons are plentiful, it ma}' be had at a cost 
of from five to six cents for a large glass. The recipe 
calls for one dozen oranges (sweet or part bitter), one 
half-dozen lemons, and ten pounds of granulated sugar. 



256 CANNING AND PRESERVING. 

Wash the fruit in tepid water thoroughly, and scrub the 
skins with a soft brush to get rid of the possible microbes 
that it is said may lurk on the skins of fruit. Dry the 
fruit ; take a very sharp knife, and on a hard- wood board 
slice it very thin. Throw away the thick pieces that come 
off from the ends. Save all the seeds, and put them in 
one bowl ; the sliced fruit in another. Pour half a gallon 
of water over the contents of each bowl, and soak for 
thirty-six hours. Then put the fruit in your preserving- 
kettle, with the water that has been standing on it, and 
strain in (through a colander) the water put on the lemon- 
seeds. Cook gently two hours ; then add the sugar, and 
cook another hour, or until the mixture jellies. Test by 
trying a little in a saucer. Put away in glasses or cans, 
as other jelly.'' 

Fruit Jellies. 

Crab-apple, quince, grapes, &c., are all made in the 
same way. Allow a teacup of water to a pound of fruit ; 
boil till ver}' tender ; then strain through a cloth, and treat 
as currant jelly. Cherries will not jelly without gelatine, 
and grapes are sometimes troublesome. Where gelatine 
is needed, allow a package to two quarts of juice. 

Candied Fruits. 

Make a sirup as for preserves, and boil any fruit, pre- 
pared as directed, until tender. Let them stand two days 
in the sirup. Take out ; drain care fu 11}^ ; lay them on 
plates ; sift sugar over them, and dry either in the sun or 
in a moderately warm oven. 



PICKLES AND CATCHUPS. 257 



PICKLES AND CATCHUPS. 

Sour pickles are first prepared by soaking in a brine 
made of one pint of coarse salt to six quarts of water. 
Boil this, and pour it scalding hot over the pickle, cucum- 
bers, green tomatoes, &c. Cucumbers may lie in this a 
week, or a month even, but must be soaked in cold water 
two days before using them. Other pickles lie only a 
month. 

Sweet pickles are made from any fruit used in preserv- 
ing, allowing three, or sometimes four, pounds of sugar to 
a quart of best cider vinegar, and boiling both together. 

Cucumber Pickles. 
Half a bushel of cucumbers, small, and as nearly as 
possible the same size. Make a brine as directed, and 
pour over them. Next morning prepare a pickle as fol- 
lows : Two gallons of cider vinegar ; one quart of brown 
sugar. Boil, and skim carefully, and add to it half a 
pint of white mustard seed ; one ounce of stick-cinna- 
mon broken fine ; one ounce of alum ; half an ounce 
each of whole cloves and black pepper-corns. Boil five 
minutes, and pour over the cucumbers. They can be 
used in a week. In a month scald the vinegar once more, 
and pour over them. 

Tomato Chutney. 
One peck of green tomatoes ; six large green peppers ; 
six onions ; one cup of salt. Chop onions and peppers 
fine, slice the tomatoes about quarter of an inch thick, 



2fjS PICKLES AND CATCHUPS. 

and sprinkle the salt over all. In the morning drain off 
all the salt and water, and put the tomatoes in a porcelain- 
lined kettle. Mix together thoroughly two pounds of 
brown sugar ; quarter of a pound of mustard-seed ; one 
ounce each of powdered cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and 
black pepper ; half an ounce of allspice ; quarter of an 
ounce each of cayenne pepper and ground mustard. Stir 
all into the tomatoes ; cover with cider vinegar, — about 
two quarts, — and boil slowly for two hours. Very nice, 
but very hot. If wanted less so, omit the cayenne and 
ground mustard. 

•Ripe Cucumber or Melon-Rind Pickles. 

Pare, seed, and cut lengthwise into four pieces, or in 
thick slices. Boil an ounce of alum in one gallon of 
water, and pour over them, letting them stand at least half 
a day on the back of the stove. Take them out, and let 
them lie in cold water until cold. Have ready a quart 
of vinegar, three pounds of brown sugar, and an ounce of 
stick-cinnamon and half an ounce cloves. Boil the vine- 
gar and sugar, and skim ; add the spices and the melon 
rind or cucumber, and boil for half an hour. 

Sweet-Pickled Peaches, Pears, or Plums. 
Seven pounds of fruit; four pounds of brown sugar; 
one quart of vinegar ; one ounce of cloves ; two ounces of 
stick-cinnamon. Pare the peaches or not, as liked. If 
unpared, wash and wipe each one to rub off the wool. 
Boil vinegar and sugar, and skim well ; add spices, stick- 
ing one or two cloves in each peach. Boil ten minutes, 
and take out into jars. Boil the sirup until reduced one- 
half, and pour over them. Pears are peeled and cored ; 



CANDIES. 



259 



apples peeled, cored, and quartered. They can all be put 
in stone jars ; but Mason's cans are better. 

Tomato Catchup. 
Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes, skins and all, and, when 
soft, strain through a colander. Be sure that it is a col- 
ander, and not a sieve, for reasons to be given. Add to 
this pulp two quarts of best vinegar ; one cup of salt ; 
two pounds of brown sugar ; half an ounce of cayenne 
pepper ; three ounces each of powdered allspice and mace ; 
two ounces of powdered cinnamon ; three ounces of 
celery-seed. Mix spices and sugar well together, and stir 
into the tomato ; add the vinegar, and stir thoroughly. 
Now strain the whole through a sieve. A good deal of 
rather thick pulp will not go through. Pour all that runs 
through into a large kettle, and let it boil slowly till re- 
duced one-half. Put the thick pulp into a smaller kettle, 
and boil twenty minutes. Use as a pickle with cold 
meats or with boiled fish. A teacupful will flavor a soup. 
In the old family rule from which this is taken, a pint of 
brandy is added ten minutes before the catchup is done ; 
but it is not necessary, though an improvement. Bottle, 
and keep in a cool, dark place. It keeps for years. 



CANDIES. 



Cream Candy. 

One pound of granulated sugar ; one teacupful of water ; 
half a teacupful of vinegar. Boil — trying very often 
after the first ten minutes — till it will harden in cold 
water. Cool, and pull white. 



260 CANDIES. 

Chocolate Caramels. 
One cup of sugar ; one cup of milk ; half a cup of 
molasses ; two ounces of grated chocolate. Melt the 
chocolate in a very little water ; add the sugar, milk, and 
molasses, and boil twenty minutes, or until very thick. 
Pour in buttered pans, and cut in small squares when cool. 

Molasses Candy. 

Two cups of molasses, one of brown sugar, a tea- 
spoonful of butter, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil 
from twenty minutes to half an hour. Pour in a buttered 
dish, and pull when cool. 

Nut Candy. 

Make molasses candy as above. Just before taking it 
from the fire, add a heaping pint of shelled peanuts or 
walnuts. Cut in strips before it is quite cold. 

CocoANUT Drops. 

One cocoanut grated ; half its weight in powdered 
sugar ; whites of two eggs ; one teaspoonf ul of corn- 
starch. Mix corn-starch and sugar ; add cocoanut, and 
then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Make in little 
cones, and bake on buttered paper in a slow oven. 

Chocolate Creams. 
One pound of granulated sugar ; half a pound of choc- 
olate ; one teaspoonful of acetic acid ; one tablespoonful 
of water ; one teaspoonful of vanilla. Melt the sugar 
slowly, wetting a little with the water. Add the acid 
and vanilla, and boil till sugary, trying very often by 
stirring a little in a saucer. When sugary, take from the 



SICK-BOOM COOKERY. 2G1 

fire, and stir until almost hard ; then roll in little balls, 
and put on a buttered plate. Melt the chocolate in two 
tablespoonfuls of water with a cup of sugar, and boil 
five minutes. When just warm, dip in the little balls till 
well coated, and lay on plates to dry. Very nice. 



SIOK-ROOM COOKERY. 

General Hints. 

As recovery from any illness depends in large part upon 
proper food, and as the appetite of the sick is always 
capricious and often requires tempting, the greatest pains 
should be taken in the preparation of their meals. If 
only dry toast and tea, let each be perfect, remembering 
instructions for making each, and serving on the freshest 
of napkins and in dainty china. A tete-a-tete service is 
very nice for use in a sick-room ; and in any case a very 
small teapot can be had, that the tea may always be made 
fresh. Prepare only a small amount of any thing, and 
never discuss it beforehand. A surprise will often rouse 
a flagging appetite. Be ready, too, to have your best 
attempts rejected. The article disliked one day may be 
just what is wanted the next. Never let food stand in a 
sick-room, — for it becomes hateful to a sensitive patient, 
— and have every thing as daintily clean as possible. 
Remember, too, that gelatine is not nourishing, and do not 
be satisfied to feed a patient on jellies. Bread from any 
brown flour will be more nourishing than wheat. Corn 
meal is especially valuable for thin, chilly invalids, as it 



2G2 SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 

contains so much heat. In severe sickness a glass tube 
is very useful for feeding gruels and drinks, and little 
white china boats with spouts are also good. A wooden 
tray with legs six or seven inches high, to stand on the 
bed, is very convenient for serving meals. Let ventila- 
tion, sunshine, and absolute cleanliness rule in the sick- 
room. Never raise a dust, but wipe the carpet with a 
damp cloth, and pick up bits as needed. Never let lamp 
or sun light shine directly in the eyes, and, when the patient 
shows desire to sleep, darken the room a little. Never 
whisper, nor wear rustling dresses, nor become irritated 
at exactions, but keep a cheerful countenance, which helps 
often far more than drugs. Experience must teach the 
rest. 

Beef Tea, or Essence of Beef. 

Cut a pound of perfectly lean beef into small bits. Do 
not allow any particle of fat to remain. Put in a wide- 
mouthed bottle, cork tightly, and set in a kettle of cold 
water. Boil for three hours ; pour off the juice, which is 
now completely extracted from the meat. There will be 
probably a small cupful. Season with a saltspoonful of 
salt. This is given in extreme sickness, feeding a tea- 
spoonful at a time. 

Beef Tea for Convalescents. 

One pound of lean beef prepared as above. Add a 
pint of cold water, — rain-water is best, — and soak for an 
hour. Cover closely, and boil for ten minutes ; or put in 
the oven, and let it remain an hour. Pour off the juice, 
season with half a teaspoonful of salt, and use. A little 
celery salt makes a change. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 263 

Chicken Broth. 

The bones and a pound of meat from a chicken put 
in three pints of cold water. Skim thoroughly when it 
comes to a boil, add a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer for 
three hours. Strain and serve. A tablespoonful of 
soaked rice or tapioca may be added after the broth is 
strained. Return it in this case to the fire, and boil half 
an hour longer. 

Chicken Jelly. 

Boil chicken as for broth, but reduce the liquid to half a 

pint. Strain into a cup or little mold, and turn out when 

cold. 

Chicken Panada. 

Take the breast of the chicken boiled as above ; cut in 
bits, and pound smooth in a mortar. Take a teacupful of 
bread-crumbs ; soak them soft in warm milk, or, if liked 
better, in a little broth. Mix them with the chicken ; add" 
a saltspoonful of salt, and, if allowed, a pinch of mace ; 
and serve in a cup with a spoon. 

Beef, Tapioca, and Egg Broth. 

One pound of lean beef, prepared as for beef tea, and 
soaked one hour in a quart of cold water. Boil slowly for 
two hours. Strain it. Add a half teaspoonful of salt, 
and half a cupful of tapioca which has been washed and 
soaked an hour in warm water. Boil slowly half an hour. 
Serve in a shallow bowl, in which a poached egg is put at 
the last, or stir a beaten egg into one cup of the boiling 
soup, and serve at once with wafers or crackers. 

Mutton Broth. 
Made as chicken broth. Any strong stock, from which 
the fat has been taken, answers for broths. 



264 SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 

Oatmeal Gruel. 

Have ready, in a double boiler, one quart of boiling 
water with a teaspoonful of salt, and sprinkle in two table- 
spoonfuls of fine oatmeal. Boil an hour ; then strain, and 
serve with cream or milk and sugar if ordered. Farina 
gruel is made in the same way. 

Indian or Corn Meal Gruel. 

One quart of boiling water ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix three tablespoon fuls of corn meal with a little cold 

water, and stir in slowly. Boil one hour ; strain and serve, 

a cupful at once. 

Milk Porridge. 

One quart of boiling milk ; two tablespoonfuls of flour 
mixed with a little cold milk and half a teaspoonful of 
salt. Stir into the milk, and boil half an hour. 

Strain and serve. If allowed, a handful of raisins and 
a little grated nutmeg may be boiled with it. 

Wine Whey. 

Boil one cup of new milk, and add half a wine-glass of 
good sherry or Madeira wine. Boil a minute ; strain, and 
use with or without sugar as liked. 

Egg-Nog. 

One egg ; one tablespoonful of sugar ; half a cup of 
milk ; one tablespoonful of wine. 

Beat the sugar and yolk to a cream ; add the wine, and 
then the milk. Beat the white to a stiff froth, and stir in 
very lightly. 

Omit the milk where more condensed nourishment is 
desired. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 265 



Arrow-Root or Rice Jelly. 

Two heaping teaspoonfuls of either arrow-root or rice 
flour ; a pinch of salt ; a heaping tablespoonful of sugar ; 
one cup of boiling water. 

Mix the flour with a little cold water, and add to the 
boiling water. Boil until transparent, and pour into cups 
or small molds. For a patient with summer complaint, 
flavor by boiling a stick of cinnamon in it. For a fever 
patient add the juice of quarter of a lemon. 

Dr. Gaunt's Rice Jelly. 

Take four tablespoonfuls of rice, and boil it hard in 
three pints of water for twenty minutes. Let simmer for 
two hours. Then force through fine hair strainer, and 
allow it to cool. Place in an ice chest over night. 

DIRECTIONS FOR USE. 

Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of the rice jelly in each 
one-half pint of milk. 

Rice Water for Drink. 

One quart of boiling water ; a pinch of salt ; one table- 
spoonful of rice or rice flour. Boil half an hour, and 
strain. 

Toast Water. 

Toast two slices of bread very brown, but do not scorch. 
Put in a pitcher, and while hot pour on one quart of cold 
water. Let it stand half an hour, and it is ready for 
use. 



266 SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 



Crust Coffee. 



Two thick slices of graham or Boston brown bread 
toasted as brown as possible. Pour on one pint of boiling 
water, and steep ten minutes. Serve with milk and sugar, 
like coffee. 

Beef Juice. 

Broil a thick piece of beef steak three minutes. Squeeze 
all the juice with a lemon-squeezer into a cup ; salt very 
lightl}^, and give like beef tea. 

Jelly and Ice. 

Break ice in bits no bigger than a pea. A large pin will 
break off bits from a lump very easily. To a tablespoon- 
ful add one of wine jelly broken up. It is verj^ refresh- 
ing in fever. 

Panada. 

Lay in a bowl two Boston or graham crackers split; 
sprinkle on a pinch of salt, and cover with boiling water. 
Set the bowl in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it 
stand half an hour, till the crackers look clear. Slide 
into a hot saucer without breaking, and eat with cream 
and sugar. As they are only good hot, do just enough 
for the patient's appetite at one time. 

Milk Toast. 

Toast one or two thin slices of bread ; dip quickly in a 
little salted boiling water, and spread on a little butter. 
Boil a teacupful of milk ; thicken with a teaspoonful of 
flour mixed in a little cold water with a pinch of salt ; lay 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 267 

the toast in a small, hot, deep plate, and pour over the 
milk. Cream toast is made in the same way. 

Beef Sandwich. 

Two or three tablespoonfuls of raw, very tender beef, 
scraped fine, and spread between two slices of slightly 
buttered bread. Sprinkle on pepper and salt. 

Prepared Flour. 

Tie a pint of flour tightly in a cloth, and boil for four 
hours. Scrape off the outer crust, and the inside will be 
found to be a dry ball. Grate this as required, allowing 
one tablespoonful wet in cold milk to a pint of boiling 
milk, and boiling till smooth. Add a saltspoonful of salt. 
This is excellent for summer complaint, whether in adults 
or children. The beaten white of an egg can also be 
stirred in if ordered. If this porridge is used from the 
beginning of the complaint, little or no medicine will be 

required. 

Parched Rice. 

Roast to a deep brown as 3'ou would coffee, and then 
cook as in rule for boiled rice, p. 199, and eat with cream 
and sugar. 

Rice Coffee. 

Parch as above, and grind. Allow half a cup to a quart 
of boiling water, and let it steep fifteen minutes. Strain, 
and drink plain, or with milk and sugar. 

Herb Teas. 

For the dried herbs allow one teaspoonful to a cup of 
boiling water. Pour the water on them ; cover, and steep 



268 SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 

ten minutes or so. Camomile tea is good for sleepless- 
ness ; calamus and catnip for babies' colic ; and cinnamon 
for hemorrhages and summer complaint. Slippery-elm 
and flax-seed are also good for the latter. 

Beef Steak or Chops, etc. 

With beef steak, cut a small thick piece of a nice 
shape ; broil carefully, and serve on a verj' hot plate, salt- 
ing a little, but using no butter unless allowed b}^ the 
physician. 

Chops should be trimmed very neatly, and cooked in 
the same way. A nice wa}^ of serving a chop is to broil, 
and cut in small bits. Have read}' a baked potato. Cut 
a slice from the top ; take out the inside, and season as for 
eating ; add the chop, and return all to the skin, covering 
it, and serving as hot as possible. 

When appetite has returned, poached eggs on toast, a 
little salt cod with cream, or many of the dishes given 
under the head of Breakfast Dishes, are relished. Pre- 
pare small quantities, preserving the right proportions 
of seasoning. 

Tapioca Jelly. 

Two ounces of tapioca, — about two tablespoonfuls, — 
soaked over-night in one cup of cold water. In the morn- 
ing add a second cup of cold water, and boil till very 
clear. Add quarter of a cup of sugar ; two teaspoonfuls 
of brandy or four of wine ; or the thin rind and juice of 
a lemon may be used instead. Very good hot, but better 
poured into small molds wet with cold water, and turned 
out when firm. 



SICK-ROOM COOKERY, 269 



Tapioca Gruel. 



Half a cup of tapioca soaked over-night in a cup of 
cold water. In the morning add a quart of milk and half 
a teaspoonful of salt, and boil three hours. It can be 
eaten plain, or with sugar and wine. Most of the blanc- 
manges and creams given can be prepared in smaller 
quantities, if allowed. Baked custards can be made with 
the whites of the eggs, if a very delicate one is desired. 

Apple Water. 

Two roasted sour apples, or one pint of washed dried 
apples. Pour on one quart of boiling water ; cover, and 
let it stand half an hour, when it is ready for use. 



270 HOUSEHOLD HINTS. 



HOUSEHOLD HINTS. 

Soft Soap. 

All mutton and ham fat should be melted and strained 
into a large stone pot. The practice of throwing lumps 
of fat into a pot, and waiting till there are several pounds 
before trying them out, is a disgusting one, as often such 
a receptacle is alive with maggots. Try out the fat, and 
strain as carefully as you would lard or beef drippings, 
and it is then always ready for use. If concentrated lye 
or potash, which comes in little tins, is used, directions will 
be found on the tins. Otherwise allow a pound of stone 
potash to every pound of grease. Twelve pounds of each 
will make a barrel of soft soap. 

Crack the potash in small pieces. Put in a large kettle 
with two gallons of water, and boil till dissolved. Then 
add the grease, and, when melted, pour all into a tight 
barrel. Fill it up with boiling water, and for a week, stir 
daily for five or ten minutes. It will gradually become 
like jelly. 

To PURIFY Sinks and Drains. 
To one pound of common copperas add one gallon of 
boiling water, and use when dissolved. The copperas is 
poison, and must never be left unmarked. 

Furniture Polish. 
Mix two tablespoonfuls of sweet or linseed oil with a 
tablespoonful of turpentine, and rub on with a piece of 
flannel, polishing with a dry piece. 



HOUSEHOLD HINTS. 271 

To KEEP Eggs. 

Be sure that the eggs are fresh. Place them points 
down in a stone jar or tight firkin, and pour over them 
the following brine, which is enough for a hundred and 
fifty: — 

One pint of slacked lime, one pint of salt, two ounces 
of cream of tartar, and four gallons of water. Boil all 
together for ten minutes ; skim, and, when cold, pour it 
over the eggs. They can also be kept in salt tightly 
packed, but not as well. 

To MAKE Hard Water Soft. 

Dissolve in one gallon of boiling water a pound and a 
quarter of washing soda, and a quarter of a pound of 
borax. In washing clothes allow quarter of a cup of this 
to every gallon of water. 

To TAKE OUT Fruit-Stains. 

Stretch the stained part tightly over a bowl, and pour 
on boiling water till it is free from spot. 

To TAKE OUT Ink-Spots. 

Ink spilled upon carpets or on woolen table-covers can 
be taken out, if washed at once in cold water. Change 
the water often, and continue till the stain is gone. 

Mixed Spices. 
Three heaping tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon, one 
heaping one each of clove and mace, and one even one of 
allspice. Mix thoroughly, and use for dark cakes and for 
puddings. 



272 HOUSEHOLD HINTS, 

Spice Salt. 

Four ounces of salt ; one of black pepper ; one each of 
thyme, sweet marjoram, and summer savory ; half an ounce 
each of clove, allspice, and mace ; quarter of an ounce of 
cayenne pepper ; one ounce of celery salt. Mix all 
together ; sift three times, and keep closely covered. 
Half an ounce will flavor a stuffing for roast meat ; and a 
tablespoonful is nice in many soups and stews. 

To WASH Greasy Tin and Iron. 

Pour a few drops of ammonia into every greasy roast- 
ing-pan, first half -filling with warm water. A bottle of 
ammonia should always stand near the sink for such uses. 
Never allow dirty pots or pans to stand and dry ; for it 
doubles the labor of washing. Pour in water, and use 
ammonia, and the work is half done. 

To CLEAN Brass and Copper. 

Scrape a little rotten-stone fine, and make into a paste 
with sweet oil. Eub on with a piece of flannel ; let it dry, 
and polish with a chamois-skin. Copper is cleaned either 
with vinegar and salt mixed in equal parts, or with oxalic 
acid. The latter is a deadly poison, and must be treated 
accordingly. 

Weights and Measures. 
As many familes have no scales for weighing, a table of 
measures is given which can be used instead. Weighing 
is always best, but not always convenient. The cup used 
is the ordinary coffee or kitchen cup, holding half a pint. 
A set of tin measures, from a gill up to a quart, is very 
useful in all cooking operations. 



HOUSEHOLD HINTS. 273 

One quart of sifted flour is one pound. 

One pint of granulated sugar is one pound. 

Two cups of butter packed are one pound. 

Ten eggs are one pound. 

Five cupfuls of sifted flour are one pound. 

A wine-glassful is half a gill. 

Eight even tablespoonfuls are a gill. 

Four even saltspoonfuls make a teaspoonful. 

A saltspoonful is a good measure of salt for all cus- 
tards, puddings, blancmanges, &c. 

One teaspoonful of soda to a quart of flour. 

Two teaspoonfuls of soda to one of cream of tartar. 

The teaspoonful given in all these receipts is just 
rounded full, not heaped. 

Two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder to one 
quart of flour. 

One cup of sweet or sour milk as wetting for one quart 
of flour. 

Time Table for Roasted Meats. 

Beef, from six to eight pounds, one hour and a half, or 
twelve minutes to the pound. 

Mutton, ten minutes to the pound for rare ; fifteen for 
well-done. 

Lamb, a very little less according to age and size of 
roast. 

Veal, twenty minutes to a pound. 

Pork, half an hour to a pound. 

Turkey of eight or ten pounds weight, not less than 
three hours. 

Goose of seven or eight pounds, two hours. 

Chickens, from an hour to an hour and a half. 

18 



274 HOUSEHOLD HINTS. 

Tame ducks, one hour. 

Game duck, from thirty to forty minutes. 

Partridges, grouse, &c., half an hour. 

Pigeons, half an hour. 

Small birds, twenty minutes. 

Time Table for Boiled Meats. 
Beef a la mode^ eight pounds, four hours. 
Corned beef, eight pounds, four hours. 
Corned or smoked tongue, eight pounds, four hours. 
Ham, eight or ten pounds, five hours. 
Mutton, twenty minutes to a pound. 
Veal, half an hour to a pound. 
Turkey, ten pounds, three hours. 
Chickens, one hour and a half. 
Old fowls, two or three hours. 

Time Table for Fish. 
Halibut and salmon, fifteen minutes to a pound. 
Blue-fish, bass, &c., ten minutes to a pound. 
Fresh cod, six minutes to a pound. 
Baked halibut, twelve minutes to a pound. 
Baked blue-fish, &c., ten minutes to a pound. 
Trout, pickerel, &c., eight minutes to a pound. 

Time Table for Vegetables. 

Half an hour., — Pease, potatoes, asparagus, rice, corn, 
summer squash, canned tomatoes, macaroni. 

Three-quarters of aji how^^ — Young beets, young tur- 
nips, young carrots and parsnips, baked potatoes (sweet 
and Irish), boiled sweet potatoes, onions, canned corn, 
tomatoes. 



HOUSEHOLD HINTS, 275 

One hour^ — New cabbage, shelled and string beans, 
spinach and greens, cauliflower, oyster-plant, and winter 
squash. 

Two hours^ — Winter carrots, parsnips, turnips, cab- 
bage, and onions. 

Three to eight hours, — Old beets. 

Time Table for Bread, Cakes, etc. 

Bread, — large loaves, an hour ; small loaves, from half 
to three-quarters of an hour. 

Biscuits and rolls, in from fifteen to twenty minutes. 

Brown bread, steamed, three hours. 

Loaves of sponge cake, forty-five minutes ; if thin, 
about thirty. 

Loaves of richer cake, from forty-five minutes to an 
hour. 

Fruit cake, about two hours, if in two or three pound 
loaves. 

Small thin cakes and cookies, from ten to fifteen min- 
utes. Watch carefully. 

Baked puddings, rice, &c., one hour. 

Boiled puddings, three hours. 

Custards to be watched and tested after the first fifteen 
minutes. 

Batter puddings baked, forty-five minutes. 

Pie-crust, about half an hour. 

Deviled Ham. 

For this purpose, use either the knuckle or any odds 
and ends remaining. Cut off all dark or hard bits, and 
see that at least a quarter of the amount is fat. Chop 
as finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. For 
a pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows : — - 



276 HOUSEHOLD HIXTS. 

One even tablespoonful of sugar ; one even teaspoonful 
of ground mustard ; one saltspoonful of Cayenne pepper ; 
one teacupful of good vinegar. Mix the sugar, mustard, 
and pepper thoroughly, and add the vinegar little by 
little. Stir it into the chopped ham, and pack it in small 
molds, if it is to be sensed as a lunch or supper relish, 
turning out upon a small platter and garnishing with 
parsley. 

For sandwiches, cut the bread verv thin ; butter lig:htlv, 
and spread with about a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. 
The root of a boiled tongue can be prepared in the same 
way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in little jars, 
and poui' melted butter over the top. 

This receipt should have had place under ''Meats," 
but was overlooked. 



UTENSILS BEQUIBED. 277 



LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED FOR SUC- 
CESSFUL WORKING. 

Tin Ware. 

One boiler for clothes, holding eight or ten gallons. — 
Two dish-pans, — one large, one medium-sized. — One two- 
quart covered tin pail. — One four-quart covered tin pail. 

— Two thick tin four-quart saucepans. — Two two-quart 
saucepans. — Foui' measures, from one gill to a quart, and 
broad and low, rather than high. — Three tin scoops of 
different sizes for flour, sugar, &c. — Two pint and two 
half -pint molds for jellies. — Two quart molds. — One 
skimmer with long handle. — One large and one small 
dipper. — Four bread-pans, lOX^X^. — Three jelly-cake 
tins. — Six pie-plates. — Two long biscuit-tins. — One 
coffee-pot. — One colander. — One large grater. — One 
nutmeg-grater. — Two wire sieves ; one ten inches across, 
the other four, and with tin sides. — One flour-sifter. — 
One fine jelly-strainer. — One frying-basket. — One Dover 
egg-beater. — One wire egg-beater. — One apple-corer. — 
One pancake-turner. — One set of spice-boxes, or a spice- 
caster. — One pepper-box. — One flour-dredger. — One 
sugar-dredger. — One biscuit-cutter. — One potato-cutter. 

— A dozen muflSn-rings. — Small tins for little cakes. — 
One muffin-pan. — One double milk-boiler, the inside boil- 
er holding two quarts. — One fish-boiler, which can also 
be used for hams. — One deep bread-pan; a dish-pan is 
good, but must be kept for this. — One steamer. — One 
pudding-boiler. — One cake-box. — Six teaspoons. 



278 UTENSILS REQUIRED. 

Wooden Ware. 

One bread-board. — One rolling-pin. — One meat-board. 

— One wash-board. — One lemon-squeezer. — One potato- 
masher. — Two large spoons. — One small one. — Nest 
of wooden boxes for rice, tapioca, &c. — Wooden pails 
for graham and corn meal. — Chopping- tray. — Water- 
pail. — Scrubbing-pail. — Wooden cover for flour-barrel. 

— One board for cutting bread. — One partitioned knife- 
box. 

Iron Ware. 

One pair of scales. — One two-gallon pot with steamer 
to fit. — One three-gallon soup-pot with close-fitting 
cover. — One three-gallon porcelain-lined kettle, to be 
kept only for preserving. — One four or six quart one, 
for apple sauce, &c. — One tea-kettle. — One large and 
one small frying-pan. — Two Russia or sheet iron drip- 
ping-pans ; one large enough for a large turkey. — Two 
gem-pans with deep cups. — Two long-handled spoons. 

— Two spoons with shorter handles. — One large meat- 
fork. — One meat-saw. — One cleaver. — One griddle. 

— One wire broiler. — One toaster. — One waffle-iron. 

— One can-opener. — Three pairs of common knives and 
forks. — One small Scotch or frying kettle. — One chop- 
ping-knife. — One meat-knife. — One bread-knife. — One 
set of skewers. — Trussing-needles. 

Earthen and Stone Ware. 
Two large mixing-bowls, holding eight or ten quarts 
each. — One eight-quart lip-bowl for cake. — Half a dozen 
quart bowls. — Half a dozen pint bowls. — Three or four 
deep plates for putting away cold food. — Six baking- 
dishes of different sizes, round or oval. — Two quart 



UTENSILS REQUIRED. 279 

blancmange-molds. — Two or three pitchers. — Two 
stone crocks, holding a gallon each. — Two, holding two 
quarts each. — One bean-pot for baked beans. — One 
dozen Mason's jars for holding yeast, and many things 
used in a store closet. — Stone jugs for vinegar and 
molasses. — Two or three large covered stone jars for 
pickles. — One deep one for bread. — One earthen tea- 
pot. — One dozen pop-over cups. — One dozen custard- 
cups. — Measuring-cup. 

Miscellaneous. 
Scrubbing and blacking brushes. — Soap-dish. — Knife- 
board. — Vegetable-cutters. — Pastry -brush. — Egg-bas- 
ket. — Market-basket. — Broom. — Brush. — Dust-pan. — 
Floor and sink cloths. — Whisk-broom. — Four roller- tow- 
els. — Twelve dish-towels. — Dishes enough for setting 
servants' table, heavy stone-china being best. 



280 HINTS TO TEACHERS, 



HINTS TO TEACHERS. 



In beginning with a class of school-girls from fourteen 
to eighteen, it is best to let the first two or three lessons 
be demonstration lessons ; that is, to have all operations 
performed by the teacher. An assistant may be chosen 
from the class, who can help in any required way. The 
receipts for the day should first be read, and copied 
plainly by all the pupils. Each process must be fully ex- 
plained, and be as daintily and deftly performed as possi- 
ble. Not more than six dishes at the most can be pre- 
pared in one lesson, and four will be the usual number. 
Two lessons a week, from two to three hours each, are all 
for which the regular school-course gives time ; and there 
should be not more than one day between, as many dishes 
can not be completed in one lesson. 

After yeast and bread have been once made by the 
teacher, bread should be the first item in every lesson 
thereafter, and the class made a practice-class. Each 
pupil should make bread twice, — once under the teacher's 
supervision, and at least once entirely alone. In a large 
class this may occupy the entire time in the school-year. 
Let the most important operations be thoroughly learned, 
even if there is little variety. To make and bake all 
forms of bread, to broil a steak, boil a potato, and make 
good tea and coffee, may not seem suflficient result for a 



HINTS TO TEACHERS. 281 

year's work ; but the girl who can do this has mastered 
the principles of cooking, and is abundantly able to go on 
alone. 

The fire should be made and cared for by each in turn, 
and the best modes of washing dishes, and keeping the 
room and stores in the best order, be part of each les- 
son. 

Once a week let a topic be given out, on which all are 
to write, any ingredient in cooking being chosen, and the 
papers read and marked in order of merit. 

Once a month examine on these topics, and on what has 
been learned. Let digestion and forms of food be well 
understood, and spare no pains to make the lesson attrac- 
tive and stimulating to interest. 

In classes for ladies the work is usually done entirely 
by the teacher, and at least five dishes are prepared. A 
large class can thus be taught ; but the results will never 
be as satisfactory as in a practice-class, though the latter 
is of course much more troublesome to the teacher, as it 
requires far more patience and tact to watch and direct the 
imperfect doing of a thing than to do it one's self. 

A class lunch or supper is a pleasant way of demon- 
strating what progress has been made ; and, in such enter- 
tainment, do not aim at great variety, but insist upon the 
perfect preparation of a few things. To lay and deco- 
rate a table prettily is an accomplishment, and each class- 
room should have enough china and glass to admit of 
this. 

To indicate the method which the writer has found 
practicable and useful, a course of twelve lessons is given, 
embracing the essential operations ; and beyond this the 
teacher can construct her own bills of fare. When the 



282 HINTS TO TEACHEBS. 

making of bread begins, it will be found that not more 
than two or three other things can be made at one lesson. 
Let one of these be a simple cake or pudding for the 
benefit of the class, whose interest is wonderfully stimu- 
lated by something good to eat. 

Large white aprons and small half -sleeves to draw on 
over the dress-sleeves are essential, and must be insisted 
upon. A little cap of Swiss muslin is pretty, and finishes 
the uniform well, but is not a necessity. 

For the rest each teacher must judge for herself, only 
remembering to demand the most absolute neatness in all 
work done, and to give the most perfect patience no matter 
how stupid the pupil may seem. 



TWELVE LESSONS. 

Lesson First. 
To make stock. 
Beef rolls. 
Apple float. 
Boiled custard. 

Lesson Second. 

To clarify fat or drippings. 
Clear soup. 

Beef soup with vegetables. 
To make caramel. 
Cream cakes. 



HINTS TO TEACHEES. 283 

Lesson Third. 



Beef a la mode. 
To boil potatoes. 
Mashed potatoes. 
Potato snow. 
Potato croquettes, 
Yeast. 
Wine jelly. 



Lesson Fourth. 



Bread. 

Plain rolls. 

Beef hash with potatoes. 

Beef croquettes. 

Coddled apples. 

Lesson Fifth. 
Graham bread. 
Rye bread. 
To broil beef steak. 
To boil macaroni. 
Macaroni baked with cheese. 
To make a roux. 
Baked custard. 

IjESSON blXTH. 

Parker-House rolls. 
Steamed brown bread. 
Puree of salmon. 
Croquettes of salmon. 
Corn-starch pudding. 



284 HINTS TO TEACHERS. 

Lesson Seventh. 
Baked fish. 
To devil ham. 
Stuffed eggs. 
Plain omelet. 
Saratoga potatoes. 
To use stale bread. 
Bread pudding and plain sauce. 

Lesson Eighth. 

Irish stew. 
Boiled cabbage. 
Baked cabbage. 
Lyonnaise potatoes. 
Whipped cream. 
Sponge cake. 
Charlotte Russe. 

Lesson Ninth. 

Bean soup. 

To dress and truss a chicken. 

Chicken fricassee, — brown. 

Chicken pie. 

Meringues, plain and with jelly. 

Lesson Tenth. 
Oyster soup. 
Oyster scallop. 
Fried oysters. 
Pie-crust. 
Oyster patties. 
Lemon and apple pie. 



HINTS TO TEACHERS. 285 



Lesson Eleventh. 

To bone a turkey or chicken. 

Force-meat. 

Boiled parsnips. 

To boil rice. 

Parsnip fritters. 

Lesson Twelfth. 
To decorate boned turkey. 
To roast beef. 
To bake potatoes with beef. 
Gravy. 

Eice croquettes. 
Chicken or turkey croquettes. 



LIST OF TOPICS FOR TWENTY LESSONS, 

Wheat and corn. 

Making of flour and meal. 

Tea. 

Coffee. 

Chocolate and cocoa. 

Tapioca and sago. 

Eice. 

Salt. 

Pepper. 

Cloves and allspice. 

Cinnamon, nutmegs, and mace. 

Ginger and mustard. 



286 HINTS TO TEACHERS. 

Olive-oil. 

Raisins and currants. 

Macaroni and vermicelli. 

Potatoes. 

Sweet potatoes. 

Yeast and bread. 

Butter. 

Fats. 



LIST OF AUTHORITIES TO WHICH THE TEACHER 

MAY REFER. 

Draper's Physiology. 

Dalton's Physiology. 

Carpenter's Physiology. 

Foster's Physiology. 

Youman's Chemistry. 

Johnston's Chemistry of Common Life. 

Lewes's Physiology of Common Life. 

Gray's How Plants Grow. 

Rand's Vegetable Kingdom. 

Brillat Savarin's Art of Dining. 

Brillat Savarin's Physiologic du Gout. 

The Cook's Oracle, Dr. Kitchener. 

Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Chambers. 

Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Pary. 

Food and Digestion, by Dr. Brinton. 

Food, by Dr. Letheby. 

Cook-books at discretion. 



HINTS TO TEACHERS, 287 



QUESTIOlSrS FOE FINAL EXAMINATION AT END OF 

YEAR. 



1 . How is soup-stock made ? 

2. How is white soup made? 

3. What are purees ? 

4. How is clear soup made? 

5. How is caramel made, and what are its uses? 

6. How is meat jelly made and colored? 

7. How is meat boiled, roasted, and broiled? 

8. How can cold meat be used? 

9. How is poultry roasted and broiled? 

10. How are potatoes cooked? 

11. How are dried leguminous vegetables cooked? 

12. How is rice boiled dry? 

13. How is macaroni boiled? 

14. How are white and brown sauces made? 

15. Give plain salad-dressing and mayonnaise. 

16. How are beef tea and chicken broth made? 

17. Give receipts for plain omelet and omelette souf- 

flee. 

18. How are bread, biscuit, and rolls made? 

19. How is pie-crust made? 

20. Rule for puff paste ? 

21. How should you furnish a kitchen? 

22. What are the best kinds of cooking utensils? 



END. 



BIBLIOGRAPHY. 



The Chemistry of Cookery. By W. Mattieu Williams. 

The Perfect Way in Diet. By Dr. Anna Kingsford. 

Foods. By Edward Smith. 

Fruits, and How to Use Them. By Hester M. Poole. 

Eating for Strength. Dr. M. L. Holbrook. 

Fruit and Bread. B}^ Gustav Scblickejesen. Trans- 
lated by Dr. M. L. Holbrook. 

Food and Feeding. B}- Sir Henry Thompson. 

Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book. What to Do and 
What not to Do in Cooking. 

Just How. By Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney. 

Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book. 

Practical Cooking and Dinner-Giving. Mrs. Hender- 
son. 

In the Kitchen. By Mrs. E. S. Miller. 

Good Living. A Practical Cook Book for Town and 
Countr3^ By Sara Van Buren Brugiere. 

FiiENCH Dishes for American Tables. By Pierre Caron. 

Cuisine Classique. Urbain-Dubois. 

Careme. 

Gouffe. 

SOYER. 

Diet for the Sick. A Treatise on the Values of Foods, 
their Application to Special Conditions of Health and 
Disease, and on the Best Methods of their Prepara- 
tion. By Mrs. Mary E. Henderson. 

Cookery-Books at discretion. 



INDEX 

PART 11. 



Apple Dumplings, 239. 

float, 246. 

water, 269. 
Artichokes, 206. 
Asparagus, 205. 
Authorities for reference, 286. 

Beans, string, 203. 

shelled, 203. 
Beef a la mode, 147. 

corned, 149. 

frizzled, 190. 

juice, 266. 

rolls, 153. 

sandwich, 267. 

steak, 158. 

steak for sick, 268. 

tea or essence, 262. 

tea for convalescents, 262. 

Virginia fashion, 148. 
Beets, 199. 
Bibliography, 288. 
Birds, 164. 
Biscuit, baking-powder, 216. 

beaten, 216. 

soda and cream of tartar, 215. 
Blancmange, 246. 
Boiled meats and stews, 146 
Bread-making and flour, 208. 
Bread, 210. 

brown, 214. 

cake, 227. 



19 



Bread, corn, 218. 

graham, 212. 

pancakes, 221. 

rye, 213. 

sour, 220. 

to use dry, 220. 

to freshen stale, 221. 
Breakfast puffs or popovers, 217. 
Brown-bread brewis, 220. 
Broth, mutton, 125, 263. 

chicken, 126. 

beef, tapioca, and egg, 263. 
Buns, plain, 228, 

Cake making, 221. 
Cake, apple, 220. 

bread, 227. 

cup, 224. 

Dover, 226. 

fruit, 225. 

gold. 227. 

huckleberry, 219. 

pound, 225. 

rolled jelly, 224. 

sponge, 223. 

white or silver, 226. 
Cakes, cream, 230. 
filling for, 231. 

drop, 230. 

buckwheat, 219. 
Cabbage, 201. 
Candy, creani, 259. 



290 



INDEX. 



Candy, molasses, 260. 

nut, 260. 
Chocolate creams, 260. 

caramels, 260 
Cocoanut drops, 260. 
Canning, General Rules for, 253. 

tomatoes, 253. 
Caramel, 131. 
Carrots, 200. 
Carrots sautes, 200. 
Casserole of rice and meat, 169. 
Cauliflower, 201. 
Cheese fondu, 184. 

souffle, 184. 
Charlotte Russe, 247. 
Cheese straws, 237. 
Chicken broth, 126. 
broth for sick, 263. 
croquettes, Philadelphia, 168. 
croquettes, 167. 
fricassee, brown, 165. 
fricassee, white, 166. 
fried, 165. 
jellied, 173. 
panada, 263. 
pie, 166. 

roasted or boiled, 164. 
salad, 179. 
Chocolate, 196. 
Cocoa, 196. 
Coffee, 194. 
crust, 266. 
rice, 267. 
Copper, to clean, 272. 
Corn, green, 204. 
fritters, 204. 
pudding, 204. 
Cream, Bavarian, 247. 
fried, 249. 
fruit, 248. 

ice, with cream, 250. 
ice, with egg?, 250. 



Cream, to freeze, 249. 

Spanish, 247. 

strawberry, 248. 

whipped, 247. 
Crisped crackers, 220. 
Croquettes, chicken, 167. 

potato, 198. 

rice, 207. 
Crushed wheat, boiled, 185. 
Curries, 153. 
Custard, baked, 245. 

boiled, 245. 

pie, 236. 

Doughnuts, 228. 

Dressing, boiled for cold slaw, 179. 

for poultry, 162. 

without oil, 179. 

plain salad, 177. 
Drop cakes, 230. 
Duck, roast, 164. 

Egg-nog, 264. 
Egg-plant, 204. 

baked, 205. 

fritters, 204. 
Eggs, baked, 181. 

boiled, 180. 

poached, 181. 

scrambled, 181. 

stuffed, 182. 

to keep, 271. 
Examination questions, 287. 

Fish, 131. 
baked, 133. 
balls, 188. 
boiled, 134. 
broiled, 135. 
chowder, 140. 
fried, 136. 
hash, 189. 



INDEX. 



291 



Fish, potted. 139. 

salt cod, boiled, 138. 

salt cod, with cream, 139. 

spiced, 139. 

stewed, 137. 

with cream, 189. 
Flour browned for soup, 130. 

prepared, 267. 
Freezing ices and creams, 249. 
Fritters, clam, 143. 

oyster, 143. 

peach, 249. 
Fruits, candied, 256. 

jellied, 256. 
Fruit-stains, to take out, 271. 
Fruit cream, 248. 
Furniture polish, 270. 

Gingerbread, 229. 

Ginger snaps, 229. 

Goose, roasted, 164. 

Gruel, corn meal or Indian, 264. 

oatmeal, 264. 

tapioca, 269. 

Ham, boiled, 150. 

deviled, 170. 

fried, 160. 
Hash, meat, 191. 
Hasty pudding, 186. 
Herb teas, 267. 
Herring, roe, 189. 
Hints to teachers, 280. 
Hoe-cake, 218. 
Hominy cakes, 186. 

coarse, 185. 

fine, 186. 
Huckleberry cake, 219. 

Ink-spots, to take out, 271. 
Iron or tin, to wash, 272. 
Italia's Pride, 169. 



Jams, 254. 

Jelly and ice, 266. 

arrow-root, 265. 

rice, Dr. Gaunt's, 265. 

chicken, 263. 

currant, 255. 

fruit, "IbQ. 

lemon, 251. 

rice, 265. 

tapioca, 268. 

wine, 251. 
Jumbles, 230. 

List of utensils required, 277. 
Lobster, boiled, 143. 
curried, 144. 

Macaroni, 207. 

with cheese, 208. 
Mackerel, salt, 189. 
Marmalade, 254. 
Marmalade, orange, 255. 
Mayonnaise, 178. 

of salmon, 180. 
Meats, 144. 

roasted, 154. 

broiled and fried, 158, 
Meat, cold, to warm, 161. 
Meringues, 231. 
Mince-meat, for pies, 237. 
Muffins, graham, 213. 

rye, 213. 
Mush, 186. 
Mutton, boiled, 149. 

broth, 125. 

broth for sick, 263. 

cliops, 268. 

leg of, stuffed, 155. 

roasted, 155. 

Oatmeal, boiled, 185. 
Omelet, plain, 182. 



292 



INDEX. 



Omelet, baked, 183. 
Omelette soufflee, 248. 
Onions, boiled, 201. 
Oyster or clam fritters, 148. 
Oyster-plant, 200. 
Oysters, fried, 141. 

for pie or patties, 142. * 

scalloped, 141. 

smothered, 143. 

spiced or pickled, 142. 

stewed, 141. 

Panada, 266. 
Parsnips, 199. 

fritters, 199. 
Pastry and pies, 232. 
Patties, 233. 
l^ease, 202. 

field, 202. 
Pickles, cucumber, 257. 

ripe cucumber, 258. 

melon-rind, 258. 

sweet ; peaches, &c., 258. 
Pie, cherry or berry, 236. 

custard, 236. 

dried-apple, 234. 

grandmother's apple-pie, 234. 

lemon, 235. 

squash or pumpkin, 236. 

sweet potato, or pudding, 235. 
Plain pie-crust, 232. 
Pork and beans, 157. 

roasted, 157. 

steak, 160. 
Potato croquettes, 198. 

snow, 198. 
Potatoes, baked, 198. 

baked with beef, 198. 

boiled, 197. 

Lyonnaise, 187. 

mashed, 198. 

Saratoga, 188. 



Potatoes, stewed, 187. 

sweet, 199. 

what to do with cold, 187. 
Poultry, to clean, 161. 

dressing for, 162. 
Porridge, milk, 264. 
Preserves, 254. 
Pudding, any-Jay plum, 240. 

batter, 240. 

bread, 241. 

bread-and-apple, 242. 

bread-and-butter, 241. 

bird's-nest, 242. 

corn-starch, 243. 

cabinet, 244. 

corn-meal or Indian, 245. 

English plum, 239. 

gelatine, 244. 

minute, 243. 

plain rice, 243. 

Sunderland, 241. 

tapioca, 242. 

tapioca cream, 243. 

tipsy, 246. 
Puff paste, 2:33. 
Purees, 128. 

Rammekins, 237. 
Rice, boiled, 207. 

croquettes, 207. 

water, 265. 

parched, 267. 
Rolls, plain, 214. 

Parker-House, 215. 
Roux, to make, 174. 

Salads, 173. 

Salmi of duck or game, 169. 

Sauces, 173. 

Sauce, apple, 176. 

bread, 174. 

celery, 175. 



INDEX. 



293 



Sauce, cranberry, 175. 

foaming, 176. 

fruit, 177. 

hard, 177. 

mayonnaise, 178. 

mint, 175. 

molasses, 176. 

plain pudding, 176. 
Spanisli tomato, 178. 
Sausage, fried, 190. 
Short-cake, 217. 

Sinks and drains, to purify, 270. 
Soft soap, 270. 
Soup, amber or clear, 123. 

beef, with vegetables, 122. 

clam, 127. 

mock turtle, 125. 

onion, 130. 

oyster, 127. 

pea, 129. 

tomato, without meat, 126. 

tomato, hasty, 126. 

turtle-bean, 129. 

white, 124. 
Spanish tomato sauce, 178. 
Spinach, 205. 
Spice salt, 272. 
Spices, mixed, 271. 
Stew, Brunswick, 154. 

brown, 152. 

Irish, 151. 

white, 152. 
Stock and seasoning, 119. 
Squash, winter, 202. 

summer, 202. 
Succotash, 203. 

Tea, 194. 

Time table for roasted meats, 273. 

for boiled meats, 274. 

for fish, 274. 



Time table for vegetables, 274. 

bread, cake, &c., 275. 
Toast, dry or buttered, 192. 

for sick, 266. 

milk, 193, 266. 

water, 193, 265. 
Topics for twenty lessons, 285. 
Tomato catchup, 259. 

chutney, 257. 
Tomatoes, baked, 206. 

canned, 253. 

stewed, 206. 

fried, 206. 

boiled, 207. 
Tongue, boiled, 150. 

deviled, 170. 
Tripe, 161. 
Turkey, boiled, 167. 

boned, 171. 

roasted, 163. 
Turnips, 200. 
Twelve lessons, 282. 

Veal, 156. 

cutlets, 159. 

loaf, 191. 

minced, 192. 
Venison, roast, 157. 

Wafers, 216. 
Waffles, 216. 

rice or hominy, 217. 
Water, apple, 269. 

toast, 265. 

hard, to make soft, 271. 

ices, 250. 
Weights and measures, 272. 
Wine whey, 264. 

Yeast, 209. 



Messrs. Roberts Brothers Publications, 

SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE 
OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH. 

BY HELEN CAMPBELL. 

167no, Cloth, rrice, $1.00, 

Besides being equal to Mrs. Campbell's best work in the 
past, it is strikingly original in presenting the ethics of 
the body as imperiously claiming recognition in the radical 
cure of inebriety. It forces attention to the physical and 
spiritual value of foods, and weaves precedent and precept 
into one of the most beguiling stories of recent date. 



It is the gospel of good food, with the added influence of fresh air, sunHght, 
cleanliness, and physical exercise that occupy profitably the attention of Helen 
Campbell. Martha is a baby when the story begins, and a child not yet in her 
teens when the narrative comes to an end, but she has a salutary power over 
many lives. Her father is a wise country physician, who makes his chaise, in his 
daily progress about the hills, serve as his little daughter's cradle and kindergar- 
ten. When she gets old enough to understand he expounds to her his views ot 
the sins committed against hygiene, and his lessons sink into an appreciative 
mind. When he encounters particularly hard cases she applies his principles 
with unfailing logic, and is able to suggest helpful means of cure. The old doctor 
is delightfully sagacious in demonstrating how the confirmed pie-eater marries the 
tea inebriate, with the result in doughnut-devouring, dyspeptic, and consumptive 
offspring. ''What did they die of?" asked little Martha, in the village grave- 
yard; and her father answers solemnly, "Intemperance." So Martha declares 
that she will be a "food doctor," and later on she helps her father in saving 
several victims of strong drink. The book is one that should find hosts of 
earnest readers, for its admonitions are sadly needed, not in the country alone, but 
in the city, where, if better ideas of diet prevail, people have yet as a rule a long 
way to go before they attain the path of wisdom. Meanwhile it remains true, as 
Mrs. Campbell makes Dr. Scarborough declare, that the cabbage soup and black 
bread of the poorest French peasants are really better suited to the sustenance of 
healthy life than the "messes" that pass for food in many parts of rural New 
i£ii>iland. — T/ie Beacon. 



Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed^ post-paid^ on receipt 
of price, by the Publishers, 

ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. 



Messrs. Roberts Brothers Publications, 

ROGER BERKELEY'S PROBATION. 

By HELEN CAMPBELL, 

Author of " Prisoners of Foz'e7'ty ,''^ " Mrs. Hertido7is Income^^ 
'' Miss Melindas Opportunity,'' " The What-to-do Club;' etc, 

16mo, cloth, price, $1.00; paper, 50 cents. 



This story is on the scale of a cabinet picture. It presents interesting 
figures, natural situations, and warm colors. Written in a quiet key, it is 
yet moving, and the letter from Bolton describing the fortunate sale of 
Roger's pamting of " The Factory Bell " sends a tear of sympathetic joy 
to the reader's eye. Roger Berkeley was a young American art student in 
Paris, called home by the mortal sickness of his mother, and detained at 
home by the spendthriftness of his father and the embarrassment that had 
overtaken the family affairs through the latter cause. A concealed mort- 
gage on the old homestead, the mysterious disappearance of a package of 
bonds intended for Roger's student use, and the paralytic incapacity of the 
father to give the information which his conscience prompted him to give, 
have a share in the development of the story. Roger is obliged for the 
time to abandon his art work, and takes a situation in a mill ; and this try- 
ing diversion from his purpose is his "probation." How he protits by 
this loss is shown in the result. The miil-life gives Mrs. Campbell oppor- 
tunity to express herself characteristically in behalf of down-trodden 
"labor." The whole story is simple, natural, sweet, and tender; and the 
figures of Connie, poor Httle cripple, and Miss Medora Flint, angular and 
snappish domestic, lend picturesqueness to its group of characters. — Lit- 
erary World. 

• 

Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed^ postpaid., on receipt of 
price, by the Publishers, 

ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. 



Messrs. Roberts Brothers' Publications, 

MISS iMELINDA'S OPPORTUNITY. 

A STORY. 

Bv HELEN CAMPBELL, 

AUTHOR OF "the WHAT-TO-DO CLUB," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," 
"prisoners OF POVERTY." 

i6mo. Cloth, price, $i.oo; paper covers, 50 cents. 



*' Mrs. Helen Campbell has written ' Miss Melinda's Opportunity ' with a 
definite purpose in view, and this purpose will reveal itself to the eyes of all of its 
philanthropic readers. The true aim of the story is to make life more real and 
pleasant to the young girls who spend the greater part of the day toiling in the 
busy stores of New York. Just as in the ' Whal-to-do Club ' the social level of 
village life was lifted several grades higher, so are the little friendly circles of shop- 
girls made to enlarge and form clubs in 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity.'" — 
Boston Herald. 

" ' Miss Melinda's Opportunity,' a story by Helen Campbell, is in a some- 
what lighter vein than are the earlier books of this clever author ; but it is none 
the less interesting and none the less realistic. The plot is unpretentious, and 
deals with the simplest and most conventional of themes ; but the character- 
drawing is uncommonly strong, especially that of Miss Melinda, which is a re- 
markably vigorous and interesting transcript from real life, and highly finished to 
the slightest details. There is much quiet humor in the book, and it is handled 
with skill and reserve. Those who have been attracted to Mrs. Campbell's other 
works will welcome the latest of them with pleasure and satisfaction." — Satur- 
day Gazette. 

*' The best book that Helen Campbell has yet produced is her latest story, 
* Miss Melinda's Opportunity,' which is especially strong in character-drawing, 
and its life sketches are realistic and full of vigor, with a rich vein of humor run- 
ning through them. Miss Melinda is a dear lady of middle life, who has finally 
found her opportunity to do a great amount of good with her ample pecuniary 
means by helping those who have the disposition to help themselves. The story 
of how some bright and energetic girls who had gone to New York to earn their 
living put a portion of their earnings into a common treasury, and provided them- 
selves with a comfortable home and good fare for a very small sum per week, is 
not only of lively interest, but furnishes hints for other girls in similar circum- 
stances that may prove of great value. An unpretentious but well-sustained plot 
runs through the book, with a happy ending, in which Miss Melinda figures as 
the angel that she is." — Home yournal. 



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price, by the publishers^ 

ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. 



Messrs, Roberts Brothers Pttblications, 



THE WHAT-TO^DO CLUB, 



A STOKY FOR GIRLS. 

By Helen Campbell. 
i6mo. Cloth. Price $1.50. 



•* • The What-to-do Club ' is an unpretending story. It introauces as lo ft 
dozen or more village girls of varying ranks. One has had superior opportuni^ 
ties ; another exceptional training ; two or three have been ' away to school ; ' 
some are farmers' daughters ; there is a teacher, two or three poor self-support- 
ers, — in fact, about such an assemblage as any town between New York and 
Chicago might give us. But while there is a large enough company to furnish a 
delightful coterie, there is absolutely no social life among them. . . . Town and 
country need more improving, enthusiastic work to redeem them from barrenness 
and indolence. Our girls need a chance to do independent work, to study prac« 
tical business, to fill their minds with other thoughts than the petty doings of 
neighbors. A What-to-do Club is one step toward higher village life. It is one 
step toward disinfecting a neighborhood of the poisonous gossip which floats like 
31 pestilence around localities which ought to furnish the most desirable homes in 
our country." — The Chautauquan. 

" *The What-to-do Club ' is a delightful story for girls, especially for New 
England girls, by Helen Campbell. The heroine of the story is Sybil Waite, the 
beautiful, resolute, and devoted daughter of a broken-down but highly educatea 
Vermont lawyer. The story shows how much it is possible for a well-trained and 
determined young woman to accomplish when she sets out to earn her own living, 
or help others. Sybil begins with odd jobs of carpentermg, and becomes an artist 
in woodwork. She is first jeered at, then admired, respected, and finally loved 
by a worthy man. The book closes pleasantly with John claiming Sybil as his 
own. The labors of Sybil and her friends and of the New Jersey * Busy Bodies,' 
which are said to be actual facts, ought to encourage many young women to more 
successful competition in the battles of life." — Golde7i Rule. 

*' In the form of a story, this book suggests ways in which young women 
may make money at home, with practical directions for so doing. Stories with a 
moral are not usually interesting, but this one is an exception to the rule. The 
narrative is lively, the incidents probable and amusing, the characters well-drawn, 
ard the dialects various and characteristic. Mrs. Campbell is a natural story- 
teller, and has the gift of making a tale interesting. Even the recipes for pickles 
and preserves, evaporating fruits, raising poultry, and keeping bees, are made 
poetis and invested with a certain ideal glamour, and we are thrilled and absorbed 
by an array or figures of receipts and expenditures, equally with the changeful 
incidents of flirtation, courtship, and matrimony. Fun and pathos, sense and 
sentiment, are mingled throughout, and the combination has resulted in one ol 
<he brightest stories of the season.'* — Woman's Jourfial. 



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EGBERTS BROTHERS. Boston. 



Messrs. Roberts BrotJiers Publications, 

MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME, 

A NOVEL. 

By HELEN CAMPBELL. 

AUTHOR OF ** THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB." 

One volume. i6mo. Cloth. $1.50. 



*• Confirmed novel-readers who have regarded fiction as created for amusement 
Jind luxury alone, lay down this book with a new and serious purpose in life. The 
social scientist reads it, and finds the solution of many a tangled problem ; the 
philanthropist finds in it direction and counsel. A novel written with a purpose, 
of which never for an instant does the author lose sight, it is yet absorbing in its 
interest. It reveals the narrow motives and the intrinsic selfishness of certain 
grades of social life ; the corruption of business methods ; the ' false, fairy gold,' 
of fashionable charities, and 'advanced' thought. Margaret Wentworth is a 
typical New England girl, reflective, absorbed, full of passionate and repressed 
intensity under a quiet and apparently cold exterior. The events that group 
themselves about her life are the natural result of such a character brought into 
contact with real life. The book cannot be too widely read." — Boston Traveller. 

*' If the ' What-to-do Club ' was clever, this is decidedly more so. It is a pow- 
erful story, and is evidently written in some degree, we cannot quite say how great 
a degree, from fact. The personages of the story are very well drawn, — indeed, 
* Amanda Briggs ' is as good as anything American fiction has produced. We 
fancy we could pencil on the margin the real names of at least half the characters. 
It is a book for the wealthy to read that they may know something that is required 
of them, because it does not ignore the difficulties in their way, and especially 
does not overlook the differences which social standing puts between class and 
class. It is a deeply interesting story considered as mere fiction, one of the best 
which has lately appeared. We hope the authoress will go on in a path where 
she has shown herself so capable.*' — The Churchman. 

*'In Mrs. Campbell's novel we have a work that is not to be judged by 
ordinary standards. The story holds the reader's interest by its realistic pictures 
of the local life around us, by its constant and progressive action, and by the 
striking dramatic quality of scenes and incidents, described in a style clear, con- 
nected, and harmonious. The novel-reader who is not taken up and made to 
share the author's enthusiasm before getting half-way through the book must 
possess a taste satiated and depraved by indulgence in exciting and sensational 
fiction. The earnestness of the author's presentation of essentially great purposes 
lends intensity to her narrative. Succeeding as she does in impressing us strongly 
with her convictions, there is nothing of dogmatism in their preaching. But the 
suggestiveness of every chapter is backed by pictures of real life." — New York 
World. ^ 

Sold bv all booksellers* Mailed^ post-paid^ on receipt of 
price, by the publishers, 

ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. 



Messrs, Roberts Brothers' Publications, 



PRISONERS OF POVERTY. 

WOMEN WAGE- WORKERS : THEIR TRADES AND 
THEIR LIVES. 



By HELEN CAMPBELL, 

HE WHAT- TO-DO CLUB," " MRS. HERNDON's I 

melinda's opportunity," etc. 
i6mo. Cloth, ^i.oo. Paper, 50 cents. 



UTHOR OF '*THE WHAT- TO-DO CLUB," " MRS. HERNDON's INCOME," " MISS 

melinda's opportunity," etc. 



The author writes earnestly and warmly, but without prejudice, and her volume 
is an eloquent plea for the amelioration of the evils with which she deals. In the 
present importance into which the labor question generally has loomed, this vol- 
ume is a timely and valuable contribution to its literature, and merits wide read- 
ing and careful thought. — Saturday Evening Gazette. 

She has given us a most effective picture of the condition of New York working- 
women, because she has brought to the study of the subject not only great care 
but uncommon aptitude. She has made a close personal investigation, extending 
apparently over a long time ; she has had the penetration to search many queer 
and dark corners which are not often thought of by similar explorers ; and we 
suspect that, unlike too many philanthropists, she has the faculty of wini.ing con- 
fidence and extracting the truth. She is sympathetic, but not a sentimentalist ; 
she appreciates exactness in facts and figures ; she can see both sides of a ques- 
tion, and she has abundant common sense. — New York Trilnine. 

Helen Campbell's "Prisoners of Poverty" is a striking example of the trite 
phrase that " truth is stranger than fiction." It is a series of pictures of the lives 
of women wage-workers in New York, based on the minutest personal inquiry and 
observation. No work of fiction has ever presented more startling pictures, and, 
indeed, if they occurred in a novel would at once be stamped as a figment of the 
brain. . . . Altogether, Mrs. Campbell's book is a notable contribution to the labor 
literature of the day, and will undoubtedly enlist sympathy for the cause of the op- 
pressed working- women whose stories do their own pleading. — Springfield Union. 

It is good to see a new book by Helen Campbell. She has written several 
for the cause of working-women, and now comes her latest and best work, called 
" Prisoners of Poverty," on women wage-workers and their lives. It is compiled 
from a series of papers written for the Sunday edition of a New York paper. The 
author is well qualified to wTite on these topics, having personally investigated the 
horrible situation of a vast army of working-women in New York, — a reflection of 
the same conditions that exist in all large cities. 

It is glad tidings to hear that at last a voice is raised for the womar, side of these 
great labor questions that are seething below the surface calm of society. And it 
is well that one so eloquent and sympathetic as Helen Campbell has spoken in be- 
half of the victims and against the horrors, the injustices, and the crimes that have 
forced them into conditions of living — if it can be called living — that are worse than 
death. It is painful to read of these terrors that exist so near our doors, but none 
the less necessary, for no person of mind or heart can thrust this knowledge aside. 
It is the first step towards a solution of the labor complications, some of which 
have assumed foul shapes and colossal proportions, through ignorance, weaknesSi 
and wickedness. — Hart/ord Times. 



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:price, by the publishers., 

ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. 



